2006 e320 cdi jerking in low RPM’s
#1
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2006 e320 CDI
2006 e320 cdi jerking in low RPM’s
When accelerating out of my neighborhood, right around 1200-1300 RPM’s the car will rapidly jerk, like I’m hitting the gas hard and quickly letting off and pressing again. It does not feel like the transmission, it feels more like a quick loss/gain of power coming on rapidly. It also happens when cruising under 50 and the rpms are held steady between 1200-1500, granted much lighter but still noticeable. And it will also do this strange jerk from 2000-2400 rpms when I’m in third and fourth gear but seemingly only those gears. Jerking does not happen every time either, and as soon as the gear changes up or down to a different rpm it will stop briefly until I reach that level of 1200-1500 rpms again.
I have a CEL currently for a glow plug wire, mechanic said he had no idea what that code was as it was not the plug itself but seemingly the wire connecting the plug.
Anybody have ave any experience with this or any suggestions as to what I can do?
I have a CEL currently for a glow plug wire, mechanic said he had no idea what that code was as it was not the plug itself but seemingly the wire connecting the plug.
Anybody have ave any experience with this or any suggestions as to what I can do?
#2
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W211 e320 CDI
Had a VERY similar issue with my Sprinter/OM642 and dealer never found issue, mine was at 1750rpm but the motors are pretty different. Intake flaps and VNT vanes are active in this region of rpm, the turbo vanes especially as the you said it was mostly under acceleration. Benz dealer thought it was a single bad injector in my Sprinter but they never pinned it down. My issue was very infrequent but I was able to duplicate for tech with me driving, nothing showed to be an anomaly in the data log however.
Im glad I got rid of all the flapper and EGR stuff years ago...it’s all just sitting there waiting to cause a problem I think. I am definitely curious as to what yours turns out to be.
Im glad I got rid of all the flapper and EGR stuff years ago...it’s all just sitting there waiting to cause a problem I think. I am definitely curious as to what yours turns out to be.
#4
When accelerating out of my neighborhood, right around 1200-1300 RPM’s the car will rapidly jerk, like I’m hitting the gas hard and quickly letting off and pressing again. It does not feel like the transmission, it feels more like a quick loss/gain of power coming on rapidly. It also happens when cruising under 50 and the rpms are held steady between 1200-1500, granted much lighter but still noticeable. And it will also do this strange jerk from 2000-2400 rpms when I’m in third and fourth gear but seemingly only those gears. Jerking does not happen every time either, and as soon as the gear changes up or down to a different rpm it will stop briefly until I reach that level of 1200-1500 rpms again.
I have a CEL currently for a glow plug wire, mechanic said he had no idea what that code was as it was not the plug itself but seemingly the wire connecting the plug.
Anybody have ave any experience with this or any suggestions as to what I can do?
I have a CEL currently for a glow plug wire, mechanic said he had no idea what that code was as it was not the plug itself but seemingly the wire connecting the plug.
Anybody have ave any experience with this or any suggestions as to what I can do?
Wonder if you ever found the issue?
#5
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I'd start with making sure ALL the pins on your injector plugs are tightly held by the sockets. A loose connection will cause issues that might not quite throw a code.
#6
When accelerating out of my neighborhood, right around 1200-1300 RPM’s the car will rapidly jerk, like I’m hitting the gas hard and quickly letting off and pressing again. It does not feel like the transmission, it feels more like a quick loss/gain of power coming on rapidly. It also happens when cruising under 50 and the rpms are held steady between 1200-1500, granted much lighter but still noticeable. And it will also do this strange jerk from 2000-2400 rpms when I’m in third and fourth gear but seemingly only those gears. Jerking does not happen every time either, and as soon as the gear changes up or down to a different rpm it will stop briefly until I reach that level of 1200-1500 rpms again.
I have a CEL currently for a glow plug wire, mechanic said he had no idea what that code was as it was not the plug itself but seemingly the wire connecting the plug.
Anybody have ave any experience with this or any suggestions as to what I can do?
I have a CEL currently for a glow plug wire, mechanic said he had no idea what that code was as it was not the plug itself but seemingly the wire connecting the plug.
Anybody have ave any experience with this or any suggestions as to what I can do?
writing after a long time, but... have you found a solution for this? I had some issues, changed the EGR for a new one + oil sepatator, and now I have exactly your symptoms. Any help would be appreciated, it's been a money pit already :/
Thanks
#7
I just changed the EGR Valve and my 2007 e320 (OM642) and it immediately started to do the low rpm jerky thing too - usually around 2nd or 3rd gear when accelerating.
The first time it did it, I thought it was the transmission. But, it's not consistent with respect to gearing. And, the fact that it started happening the first time I drove the car after changing the EGR Valve certainly points to an EGR issue.
EGR Valve test results are a little out of wack -->
Can anyone please help me interpret these results? What could cause this with an brand new, right out of the box, EGR valve?
Any ideas please??
The first time it did it, I thought it was the transmission. But, it's not consistent with respect to gearing. And, the fact that it started happening the first time I drove the car after changing the EGR Valve certainly points to an EGR issue.
EGR Valve test results are a little out of wack -->
Can anyone please help me interpret these results? What could cause this with an brand new, right out of the box, EGR valve?
Any ideas please??
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#8
Update -- My transmission did have a stored code in it for slipping (no check engine light ever came on). If that's the problem, it sure is odd that the 722.9 transmission would start acting up right after I put in a new EGR valve. I guess the world has a tendency to act in confusing ways. I will continue to monitor transmission codes and update this when I learn more.
#9
Senior Member
Coincidences, they do happen.
How long since trans fluid replaced? Might be worth having new filter and refill. And reset transmission procedure.
If you see transmission speed sensor faults is also worth a try to do the 5 liter swap a couple of times just to be sure the sensors are washed down well.
Last time I changed the fluid (not completely, just the 5 liters), it wouldn't come out of 1st gear for quite a ways. Then shut car off, did trans reset, and it shifted normally again.
Trans too smart for it's own good, sometimes I think.
How long since trans fluid replaced? Might be worth having new filter and refill. And reset transmission procedure.
If you see transmission speed sensor faults is also worth a try to do the 5 liter swap a couple of times just to be sure the sensors are washed down well.
Last time I changed the fluid (not completely, just the 5 liters), it wouldn't come out of 1st gear for quite a ways. Then shut car off, did trans reset, and it shifted normally again.
Trans too smart for it's own good, sometimes I think.
#10
Transmission
Good advice b34chbum. Transmission pan gasket was not seated correctly (of course) right in the spot where it nests into the trans motor mount. Over 5 months the fluid weeped out leaving it too low.
what surprises me is the that when the transmission would slip or mis- shift it would pull engine rpms down below 1000 on the tach. That made it look to me (non pro obviously) like loss of power was the cause instead of the effect.
and it only threw the slip code once in a while even though there were numerous rough shifts.
all good now.
Others with hesitation issue might consider trans.
what surprises me is the that when the transmission would slip or mis- shift it would pull engine rpms down below 1000 on the tach. That made it look to me (non pro obviously) like loss of power was the cause instead of the effect.
and it only threw the slip code once in a while even though there were numerous rough shifts.
all good now.
Others with hesitation issue might consider trans.
#11
Senior Member
>Trans too smart for it's own good, sometimes I think.
I'm half joking, really. I would presume most of the intent with the various sensors and failure codes in the trans is for self-preservation.
Glad you were able to figure it out!
I'm half joking, really. I would presume most of the intent with the various sensors and failure codes in the trans is for self-preservation.
Glad you were able to figure it out!
#12
Junior Member
Not sure if this is the same kind of jerking, but a stretched chain in the transfer case of 4matic models can result in erratic jerking during acceleration when the cog skips a tooth on the loose chain.
#13
When accelerating out of my neighborhood, right around 1200-1300 RPM’s the car will rapidly jerk, like I’m hitting the gas hard and quickly letting off and pressing again. It does not feel like the transmission, it feels more like a quick loss/gain of power coming on rapidly. It also happens when cruising under 50 and the rpms are held steady between 1200-1500, granted much lighter but still noticeable. And it will also do this strange jerk from 2000-2400 rpms when I’m in third and fourth gear but seemingly only those gears. Jerking does not happen every time either, and as soon as the gear changes up or down to a different rpm it will stop briefly until I reach that level of 1200-1500 rpms again.
I have a CEL currently for a glow plug wire, mechanic said he had no idea what that code was as it was not the plug itself but seemingly the wire connecting the plug.
Anybody have ave any experience with this or any suggestions as to what I can do?
I have a CEL currently for a glow plug wire, mechanic said he had no idea what that code was as it was not the plug itself but seemingly the wire connecting the plug.
Anybody have ave any experience with this or any suggestions as to what I can do?