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The cat hangs off of the turbo on the E350. The DPF is after that, separated by a V-band clamp. You can tell the DPF by the 2 DP sensor fittings on either side of it - leading to the DPF sensor.
So if you're looking at the diagram, would you say that the "main catalytic converter" mentioned as #7 is actually the DPF?
So if you're looking at the diagram, would you say that the "main catalytic converter" mentioned as #7 is actually the DPF?
that diagram does not show several things, so I am a bit suspect: no SCR, nor fittings for the DEF pump inlet, no DPF sensor fittings. It actually looks like a "pre-def" version. I will say that typically, the "pre-cat" is first, then DPF, then SCR. The pre-cat seems to have only one sensor, on the upstream side. The dpf has pressure (smaller fittings with pipe coming off of them) sensor fittings on both sides. The SCR has an injection nozzle upstream of it.
So more to your question, the pre-cat looks like 7, and the DPF looks like 8. I would prefer to see an actual pic.
Don't know if ML has it different, but on both of my E class Bluetecs the DPF in parts catalog is called catalytic converter and in both are the first thing behind turbo.
Even pre DEF , DPF is having 4 sensor fittings on it, so quite easy to tell.
I went on the BuzzKen site and they offer a pipe only for $730, but their pipe automatically eliminates the cat(s). They even go so far as to warn you that this will cause a smell and offer you the option of that DOC cat you mentioned earlier for an extra $300. I don't get why they feel the need to remove the cat while installing the DPF bypass... https://www.tunemyeuro.com/mercedes/
The shops theoretically already know what parameters to change for any deletes as well as hp gains, I can't see them charging much more for power gains since they're already in there. When I'm back up, I may call them for clarification, just for grins....
Talked to the shop earlier today and here is some more info i got. I do have the option to get it done cheaper, it would just be without the hp/torque tune. Looking at the malone site, if you went just with the deletes they are listed as 649, but if you get a hp/torque tune AND the deletes, then you pay 649 for the tune, but you get the deletes for 399. then your labour and pipe costs on top. So my guess is that your shop did a malone delete, you just paid for the 649 for the delete, then the labour costs for them to do the work and fabricate the pipe with the flanges (that might make more sense why labour cost so much since they had more fabricating work to do). he said i could save money and just do the delete with the buzzken, but i figure while im doing this i might as well get the tune because i would love some more hp/torque.
That site is the same one i saw the pipe on, but i also noticed it is an american site/their contact info points to Dallas, so i believe the 730 price on there is USD not CAD. All my prices for the work are CAD. And yes that site and exactly what you saw was what prompted me to ask that question to the mechanic(because i dont want no stinkiness), but i am also unclear about those diagrams. At first glance i thought #8 was the DPF until i read the descriptions in the diagram. I'm guessing here but i would think the Buzzken pipe will just replace #8 in the diagram, so then #7 would be left behind and would be the CAT. But that still then brings up the question, if the Buzzken pipe would only replace #8 and the CAT (#7) would still be left, why would that site be offering another DOC CAT at $300?
No idea at all. As far as the extra $$ for the hp/torque tune, it makes sense. They're in business to dick with your ECM, why "give" a tune away.
The main reason I didn't do a tune is that at this point, my huge concern is reliability and durability. Even though I'm confident that the power tune is good, it'll still make the engine work harder to produce that extra hp. Let's face it, my engine takes a dump? At $15k - $25k for a replacement, I'd simply be looking at a paperweight sitting for eternity in my driveway. I want all the odds on my side.
And no, this is not typically how I roll. I've always modded my vehicles (and my women, to be honest *wink*)
- 68 Nova with a big block and an M22/12 bolt
- 502/502 big block crate engine transplant into a GMC Safari c/w 4L80/Ford 9"
- Dodge Charger SRT8
- Grand Cherokee SRT
So yeah, I'm a power junky. But this German vehicle has de-testicularized me
I guess the gauge and better monitoring is something to consider.
Did you (anyone else following this thread) ever invest in the ScanGuage tool? I picked up a CPO 2016 E250 Bluetec in the summer, with about 80,000km on it and the same OM651 engine.. So far so good, no fault codes, and I always avoid any short runs for many reasons, but especially for good DPF health and regeneration - have been reading lots of good info in the forums. At 80k, for a 2 year old car, I also have to believe it was a lot of highway mileage. I am also in Ontario, and hopefully do not have to resort to some of the measures you are taking given your emissions systems challenges. In the interest of keeping the DPF in good shape and avoiding costly repairs, is investment in this tool a worthy investment? I suspect there would be many other benefits of this as well.
FYI, I am also planning my own DIY oil changes and contributed recently to This MBWorld Thread, and perhaps is worthy of a separate post in this thread
Krzysztof (kajtek1) runs a scangauge, I think. Ask him about his DPF nightmares. And, he is fully aware of how to not treat a DPF, very knowledgeable with diesels
Yeah, scangauge works on 651 engine and I would check if they updated the gauges for 642. https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...-yupeeeyy.html
I am generally sceptic with new toys and lot of gauges in the past would give me fictional numbers, but the soot % and DPF regeneration show parallel differences and that build confidence.
Bare in mind that there is no real soot sensor and the data is calculated, so bigger margin for error and then soot % can go to 200.
Took me 600 miles of city driving to get 100% soot and without gauge I could never tell regeneration is happening.
Last time I got home with 16% soot still not cleaned and now observe it going up much faster, so looks like taking extra loop around the block for complete regeneration is good idea.
BTW having 4 displays on scangauge I also monitor volts.
On car with new battery the recouping energy during braking look perfect, but on the other the alternator voltage seem to have no relation to driving. No codes, so the only explanation is the older battery.
Observing voltage also will let you know when ECO might kick in after cold start.
Yeah, scangauge works on 651 engine and I would check if they updated the gauges for 642. https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...-yupeeeyy.html
I am generally sceptic with new toys and lot of gauges in the past would give me fictional numbers, but the soot % and DPF regeneration show parallel differences and that build confidence.
Great, thanks for the info. Would love to hear more about your DPF woes, in hopes I can do some things proactively to avoid these problems.
It would seem that about $200 CDN for a Scanguage may be a worthwhile investment? Looking at the product website, the parameters in the screen shot below look like interesting ones to monitor. Also, I am not sure of the "validity" of the claims made in the widely debated "Stephens Service Report", but regardless, my understanding of the DPF regeneration process is that if exhaust temps are not high enough for regeneration when needed, there is a post combustion injection of fuel to boost exhaust temps. The Stephens report claims some of this fuel gets by the piston rings and into the crankcase. Again, not sure of the validity of the report claims per se, but it would still make sense in my mind to be able to monitor DPF parameters and drive accordingly to ensure this happens when needed.
Any additional info / insights would be appreciated.
I think scangauge is pretty expensive for what it is, but way cheaper than new DPF
I bought mine years ago for Ford 6l diesel, where overlooking temperature delta on oil cooler could lead to lost engine.
Who knows where else it might get handy? Point is, that "plug and forget" beats all other options
I also have to prize them for good customer response,. I emailed them about Xgauge for MB, few days later they send me monitoring modules and in just days new Xgauge was ready.
i've already got 2 obd adapters, probably don't need to spend money on a third. currently i have a OBDLink MX ( https://www.scantool.net/obdlink-mxbt/ ) and i also have a Carly for Mercedes ( https://shop.mycarly.com/en/adapter/android-mercedes/ ) . And the full pro Carly app, a free OBDLink MX app, and a pro version of Torque android. More apps and options than i know what to do with. I mainly just use them to read CEL codes and then diagnose. Just after i had the Nox sensor issues i started researching more into the DPF and even emailed Carly to see if it was possible to use their adapter to see either live or a history log of when a regen has been done and if it completed fully, they replied and said not possible currently with their scanner and app. Their support is great though, i got quick responses, and even when i had problems with an adapter, they sent me a new one for free. Their codes are specific to Mercedes and actually gives me a description, vs the OBDLink that just gives a P code and then i have to google hunt to figure it out. I still haven't emailed or spoke to the Torque app writer, but i imagine there must be an option in the app to be able to add a digital gauge with exhaust gas temp, that may allow you to identify at least when a regen is occurring and may be cheaper than a scangauge, something to consider.
Who knows, maybe the 2 adapters and multiple apps i have, i may already be able to view/accomplish what a scangauge could do.
In the end i would love to do a navigation screen facelift. I saw on this forum somewhere where a guy changed the interior screen to the newer model tablet looking kind and it ran android. then i could run torque on the screen and view any gauges i wanted. Plus the other benefits of better navigation by using Waze or google maps. That project is definitely postponed now due to the costs im incurring, and I still have to do brakes soon too, and possibly all filters and oil to be on safe side and because now im paranoid. :S
I was tempted to buy android from Chris or Chinese sellers, mostly for lack of GPs in my black car, but following the topic with over 1000 reples reporting struggle after struggle was not making me confident and electronics is not my speciality.
Black car in Vegas heat is not the color anyway, so my solution was buying loaded white one.
i do want it to mirror OEM screen, but with the added benefit of running a few android apps. mainly Waze/google maps and Torque. Looks nice and hopefully there are no problems just for those basic things, but definitely not a cheap upgrade and it's not a necessity at this time. Also haven't dug into it enough to know what kind of or how frequently there are problems with it.
just an update as the work has been done. some questions too maybe you guys can answer...
total cost in the end was 2489.24 CAD taxes and everything included. I think he also cut me a deal on the labour rate as I expected it to be a bit more with the labour hours he quoted me originally.
Malone stage 1 tune (649) + software deletes (399) = 1048
Buzzken delete pipe = 875
he gave me back 2 pipes with sensors attached and also giant cans on each of the pipes. I assume one is the DPF, but the other one I'm not sure? maybe a cat?
I'm still debating on whether to keep the pipes or whether to try and sell them, as I know the parts are valuable and in high demand. I do plan on keeping the car for a long time, or if I'm going to sell it I would prefer to sell it to someone who knows what work has been done, and also wants the car that way (better imo). input or thoughts, what would you guys do?
I looked under the car and it looks like the end of the exhaust parts are all intact and not really changed. almost looks like the Buzzken pipe starts just after the muffler pipe (11) ends in this pic ( https://www.mboemparts.com/v-2014-me...ust-components ). I didn't take any covers off so I could only see a bit, but I did see that on the pipe closer to the front engine area there is also a round canister that the pipe goes into. I'm maybe guessing that this is some sort of doc/cat to prevent that horrible smell people mention when they take out a dpf and cat, and maybe why the tunemyeuro site also offers to sell a DOC or warns you that the smell would be really bad. if you look at the pic here ( https://www.tunemyeuro.com/mercedes-...ken/#gallery-1 ) that round canister starts right about where this pipe ends by the engine area.
here are some initial impressions and questions since I don't know what "normal" should be after having such work done...
Smell/exhaust smoke - when the car is first started from cold, and I sit there idling for a bit to warm up the engine, or im brushing snow off the car while it idles, you can see white/grey smoke coming out of the exhaust (it is about -11 celsius here today when i tested it, not sure if temp affects whether you will see the smoke or not). If the wind happens to blow the smoke back towards the car you can smell the exhaust in the car, obviously it's not a great smell, reminds me of times when i pulled up to a pick up truck and could smell their exhaust and thought ewww. Once you get driving, you don't smell anything. Also once the engine is fully warmed up, even sitting in the driveway and taking a look at the back, i could no longer see any smoke at all coming out of the pipe, squatting near the back of the car though I could get a slight smell of the exhaust fumes, nothing at all inside the car and also not as strong of a smell outside as when the engine was cold. Once warmed up, stepping on the gas pedal as i drive, i could not notice any smoke in my rear or side view mirrors. Is this normal for a diesel, smells a little more until the engine is up to temp?
Sound - the sound is definitely more, throatier I'll call it. Just has a deeper resonance now when driving. You don't really hear or notice it though until you get past about 1600 rpm, then you start to hear it. As long as you don't have a lead foot, you probably won't hear much of it as I think the car likes to usually shift up around or under the 2000 rpm area depending on how hard you're pressing the gas.
Gear shifting - because of the exhaust being louder i noticed something weird with the gear changes (all automatic not me using the paddle shifters), and i dont know if the car did this before or not, maybe im just noticing it now because i hear the exhaust more. In the first couple gear changes 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 i find that when the car changes gears, its almost as if it is in neutral for a little bit during the change. as the gear shifts, the rpm will jump up a bit higher creating a louder exhaust noise, most noticeable when going from 1 to 2. It maybe jumps up 200 rpm or just under 200 rpm. if I'm on the gas pedal harder its more noticeable because the rpm goes much higher before it shifts and the exhaust is louder. at first i thought it only did it when the car wasn't warm, but after another test drive i notice it even did it when the car is fully warmed up. TBH i have no clue if this is how the car shifted before, i just never noticed, but now that i do notice it, i just want to make sure this is ok/normal. Any thoughts on this? Heard of it, or is maybe something wrong with the stage 1 tune and I have to take it back?
Gas mileage - still TBD, I'm waiting till I have to fill up my tank (soon) and then I can really get a better gauge, but so far it does look to be better when I watch the display and estimated km remaining in the tank. From before, if I drove it all city I would usually get anywhere from 600-700 km on a tank with pure stop n go city driving. This was also with some left in the tank when gassing up, being somewhere in the reserve area.
Power - no official numbers as I never dynod the car and don't plan on dynoing it now, also I am kind of babying it now until I get the new filter adapter and change my oil. From some quick tests I would say I do feel more power all throughout the rpm range now.
I've still yet to unplug the EGR and Adblue controller as the Malone site recommends. I think I have located the EGR and plug I need to pull out (pic below, someone please confirm I'm disconnecting the right thing). The adblue controller I thought was under the spare tire from the pic Malone has on their site, but it wasn't there, unless it's hidden under the velvetty carpet stuff. I haven't checked on my car yet but I thought maybe it is located in the same area this video shows...
I would keep all components that were removed until you get rid of the car.
Smell/exhaust smoke - Is this normal for a diesel, smells a little more until the engine is up to temp?
Yes, to some extent. My 2008 Duramax (tuned) with a 6.6l does not smell nearly as strong as the bluetec with a tune. I truly believe that this is related to how much fuel the tune is requiring at start and while cold. This is where the Malone tune is poor. They have not done enough testing (I assume due to the difficulty loading the tune vice loading via the OBD port) so the result is too much fuel - better default rich than lean.
Gear shifting - Did you sent your TCM in? If not, then transmission settings are not changed. One thing that may have changed is adaptation. Whenever the battery is disconnected, the trans needs to "find it's brain" or go through adaptation. During this process, it learns how you drive, and adapts to new settings. There is a way to force adaptation. I recommend doing this.
Turn the key to position 2. You should see all the dash lights come on. ...
Press the gas pedal all the way. ...
Wait. ...
Turn key to OFF, position 0. ...
Release the gas pedal.
Wait 2 minutes. ...
Start the car and drive.
Gas mileage - good luck.
I've still yet to unplug the EGR and Adblue controller as the Malone site recommends.
yes, what you have circled is EGR. As for Adblue connector, there are 2 locations described to me. One is under the spare (for me, under the Styrofoam that the tire changing crap was in). The other is behind a panel on the right side of the truck. Look for a covered access panel.
any questions, thoughts or input please let me know
helps for sure, thank you! I'll give the adaptation a try shortly and see if it helps.
for the adblue controller I did check behind an access panel on the right side, but I didn’t see any connections I could unplug, I'll keep looking around and also maybe check where that youtube video showed it was located, hopefully I don’t unplug the wrong thing. maybe I’ll post a pic here once I find it.
for storing the pipes/parts, can I just leave them like that, or do I have to do anything special to put them away for storage? I think I recall for storing exhaust systems you had to spray/lube them and plug/cover them somehow, wondering if it's the same for these.
I agree with Todd, always keep all the parts. If you ever sell the vehicle, then you can sell off the parts.
I don't seem to have any of the other issues Babuk mentioned. No smoke to speak of, no odours. Tranny definitely the same as before. However, I only did the deletes, no power tuning. No idea if the shop unplugged the connectors or not, but I'll snoop around the engine compartment this weekend and check it out.
Don't make yourself sick over storage conditions for the parts. These same parts are soaked in salty slush every winter. I'd say that simply storing the parts in a garage/attic should be fine.
Called and talked to the mechanic and he said that's unfortunately how it is. Said he has done JR auto tunes and Malone tunes and both end up being like that.
Just to help with my understanding, I assume all the tunes will increase the fuel richness, hence if the engine is not up to temp it is not able to burn off all that fuel, therefore causing the additional smoke and smell?
As per Todd's comment I'm sure all tunes are different in their own way and modify things differently, but to some extent I would assume all of them would have a similar effect until the engine is warm, maybe some a bit less smelly than Malone if Malone tends to increase that richness more.
Maybe it's time I start idling less before driving off. I'm pretty sure I've read that idling is not great for diesels but I've always had it idle at least until I brush off the snow.
In cold weather what do you guys idle before driving off?
For me from the time I close the door to the time when car starts moving is about 2 seconds. How is that for idling?
No combustion engine likes idling and even living in cold weather I would start driving as soon as engine would smooth out. That often would mean that I could not touch the gas pedal for some time, but older cars had high idle with choke and that was good enough to start rolling on 1 and 2 gear and by then I could start reving the engine.
Coming to tune, I could not find tuner who would truthfully disclosure what they are doing.
Per reading my smog readiness on DPF delete, the DPF reads as "not applicable" so my feeling is that they made the ECU thinking it doesn't need dpf.
Then after the fact, even I send my ECU for tune, what include DPF delete, they informed me that all they did is delete and I don't have the tune.
I don't drive the car with DPF delete much, so still can't say about fuel consumption, but doesn't look like it changed.
My understanding for idling was just to ensure oil got to all the parts before you drove off, who knows, that may be as quick as 2 seconds like you do. Also obviously not being too heavy on the gas pedal until fully up to temp is a safe practice.
I'll reduce my idle time, maybe start it up, give it 5 seconds then go. Then smell won't be a problem since I'll be on the move.
I'm similar, not a lot of driving for this car, but I'll probably drive it a bit more for now just to get a sense of the gas mileage. It'll be interesting to see the effects. Dpf delete should save fuel, but stage 1 tune would increase fuel, hopefully with normal driving it still gets better mileage
We start and go, but our vehicles are always inside a garage at 15*C. When leaving work and I forget to hit the remote start for 5 minutes before leaving, (as I did yesterday @ -14*C or +7*F ), I let it warm up at least a minute before pulling out. When it's -20* (F & C are the same at this point), I let it warm up an additional minute or so. Amazing what kind of strange noises emanate from an engine at those temps. It's also incredible that an engine can even start at those temps.
BTW, none of the delays before driving off are to get oil flowing. It's flowing within a second of starting the engine.
then why the idle for a bit? prevent too much shock to the parts when they still aren’t warmed up?
Peter with the colder temps have you noticed an increase in smell or exhaust smoke or has it stayed the same even in the colder temps and nothing noticeable?
If you haven't noticed anything even in the lower temps, then it either has to be the Malone tune and the richness, or alternatively since the mechanic took off the original CAT, maybe the other CAT he put in just isn't able to do enough to filter out the smoke/smell?
we have had crazy temps here last few days, my car has been parked outside too, and surprisingly i have had 0 issues starting (a little more sluggish on the start but still fires up no problem), only the smog and smell issues. i had more issues when we initially had temps in the -12 celsius range, seems like the car has gotten accustomed to the lower temp now and even my windows aren't freezing. temps here have been -22 celsius to even -25 celsius, with wind chill the feels like has been in the -30 to -36 celsius, INSANE! I think i nearly got frostbite while trying to gas up.
I've noticed increase in smell and exhaust smoke during the -30 days, and also huge impact to gas mileage. If i drive it long enough though and it gets fully up to temp, all that smoke and smell is pretty much gone and also mileage gets better when looking at the predicted range, but it definitely takes me a while to get up to full running temp in this freezing cold. Today i got to do some highway for a longer period, and we also had warmer temps (-10 celsius) and gas mileage looked great.
i tried the transmission adaptation, have no clue if i did it right as there is no dash or sound indication that it was done, but i think i did it right because I've been driving it fairly slow and carefully and i have noticed the car shifting at lower rpms now vs how it shifted before. The little blurp of rpm during gear changes is still kinda present but hit or miss. I may have to do more testing but sometimes it seems fine on all gears and nothing out of ordinary happens, but other times if im trying to give it a bit more gas it tends to still jump in the rpm a bit during a gear change. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe have to contact Malone, although I'm not sure how much i would trust them. I contacted them earlier through the site about locating the EGR and SCR controller and i included the pic i attached here, the guy from Malone says that is not the EGR and he thinks it might be the turbo actuator, he said the EGR/anti shudder valve i am to locate and unplug is on the passenger side in front of the oil cap. I haven't looked yet, but sometimes i feel we have more experts on this forum.
then why the idle for a bit? prevent too much shock to the parts when they still aren’t warmed up? As I mentioned, at such low temps I want to give the internals time to acclimate. With some of the weird noises engines make at -20 and colder, what can possibly be harmed by giving the poor thing a chance before applying load to it. Just my personal take on the matter, I have absolutely no science to back it up. But I know that idling for a minute or two won't hurt it.
Peter with the colder temps have you noticed an increase in smell or exhaust smoke or has it stayed the same even in the colder temps and nothing noticeable?
If you haven't noticed anything even in the lower temps, then it either has to be the Malone tune and the richness, or alternatively since the mechanic took off the original CAT, maybe the other CAT he put in just isn't able to do enough to filter out the smoke/smell? Honestly, "maybe" a very slight smell of something on a cold (-10*C or colder) start when left out in the cold. "Maybe". But definitely nothing bothersome or annoying in the least. And definitely no smell inside the cabin.
we have had crazy temps here last few days, my car has been parked outside too, and surprisingly i have had 0 issues starting (a little more sluggish on the start but still fires up no problem), only the smog and smell issues. i had more issues when we initially had temps in the -12 celsius range, seems like the car has gotten accustomed to the lower temp now and even my windows aren't freezing. temps here have been -22 celsius to even -25 celsius, with wind chill the feels like has been in the -30 to -36 celsius, INSANE! I think i nearly got frostbite while trying to gas up. Yeah, we're living the same dream in Montreal, my Canadian cousin. My projected electricity bill from December 12th to February 11th is going to be about $830. I'm on bi-energy, just filled my propane tank. Another $360. This winter is tearing me a new one....
I've noticed increase in smell and exhaust smoke during the -30 days, and also huge impact to gas mileage. If i drive it long enough though and it gets fully up to temp, all that smoke and smell is pretty much gone and also mileage gets better when looking at the predicted range, but it definitely takes me a while to get up to full running temp in this freezing cold. Today i got to do some highway for a longer period, and we also had warmer temps (-10 Celsius) and gas mileage looked great. Again, our brat is garaged at 15*C so we don't see any of the issues you mentioned. By coincidence, I asked the ball'n chain yesterday during supper if she's noticed any difference in the amount of km's she can run on a tank. She perked up and said "You know what? Yes, matter of fact." She claims she seems to be able to travel a bit further before filling the tank at the halfway point. Not exactly a scientifically-calculated answer, as she doesn't really care and didn't keep track of the exact km's and litres of diesel. Adorable l'il thing, must be nice to not worry about stuff like that. "It starts, it goes, what do I care?" LOL
i tried the transmission adaptation, have no clue if i did it right as there is no dash or sound indication that it was done, but i think i did it right because I've been driving it fairly slow and carefully and i have noticed the car shifting at lower rpms now vs how it shifted before. The little blurp of rpm during gear changes is still kinda present but hit or miss. I may have to do more testing but sometimes it seems fine on all gears and nothing out of ordinary happens, but other times if im trying to give it a bit more gas it tends to still jump in the rpm a bit during a gear change. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe have to contact Malone, although I'm not sure how much i would trust them. I contacted them earlier through the site about locating the EGR and SCR controller and i included the pic i attached here, the guy from Malone says that is not the EGR and he thinks it might be the turbo actuator, he said the EGR/anti shudder valve i am to locate and unplug is on the passenger side in front of the oil cap. I haven't looked yet, but sometimes i feel we have more experts on this forum.
I'm sure that there's something on YouTube or Google which will show you where the plug is. I honestly do not understand how a deactivated circuit can give you issues down the road just because a plug is still connected. But I imagine Malone knows best. Honestly, I would go back to the shop who did the tune and have them do it. And they should have done it initially if Malone suggests it.
Wow, and I thought my heating bill will be big this month, yours is insane! Wouldn't it be cheaper to run a wood furnace? just need some labour to chop logs lol
I imagine with the dpf delete your car should get better mileage, no matter how unscientific her guess is she's probably right. Mine has the tune and may be the opposite (I really hope not) . Considering the crazy temps we've had and how it has affected mileage, I probably shouldn't count this tank and maybe wait till the next one before I try to compare and judge.
Mechanic told me he unplugged what needed to be unplugged, but looking at the Malone site the only mandatory unplug was the scr controller, the egr is a recommended unplug for a smoother cold start/idle. I'm also unsure how it would affect it since it should be disabled via software, but we're not the experts on the Malone tune so it's probably best to listen to Malone. I'll try to find both and check them just cuz I'm crazy and want to make sure everything has been done right.
I'm totally lost/confused on the transmission/shifting now. I think/feel like the issue is gone, but I'm unsure if it's due to the transmission adaptation, or just because our temps are warmer now. Wondering if the really cold temps could've affected the smoothness and speed of the gear shift, possibly slowed it down due to everything being frozen and transmission oil thickening up, hence it being stuck in a neutralish state between gears and jumping rpm a bit between the lower gears.
I'm going to keep an eye on it and try not to be too paranoid.
01-16-2019, 05:48 AM
