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-   -   Egr/dpf delete ? (https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/740740-egr-dpf-delete.html)

Riki986 04-04-2019 05:42 AM

Egr/dpf delete ?
 
Anyone familiar with egr/dpf delete here ?

smiledr996s 04-04-2019 07:56 AM

Yes.... if you have an 07 or 08 cdi. Contact green diesel engineering. There are other tuners for later years. They will send you a flash with their eco tune. It will deactivate the egr and swirl valves, increase hp/torque some, transmission settings are adjusted. Supposed to help fuel economy, but I did not notice much.

The dpf delete is extra. Once done you can delete. I recieved a dpf delete pipe from cb engineering. It it for a gl. I think they have an ml if not the same piece. The best part it that you can use a better protecting oil without worrying about destroying the dpf

peter2772000 04-04-2019 04:53 PM

I've done the DPF/DEF/EGR delete and have no regrets. Malone Tuning and custom bypass with my own flanges. Green Diesel has nothing for my W166, but may have something for the W164.

Babukb2 04-05-2019 12:28 AM

egr/def/dpf delete done here and buzzken pipe put on, also malone stage 1 tuned while getting the deletes

why are you looking for the deletes?

i ask because i thought the full delete was the only solution and i wanted to prevent any other future problems. What prompted me was a adblue heater CEL, but now after the fact i actually found out i could've just had a DEF delete done and left everything else intact because it was still functioning. Would've saved me some money had i known this before.

peter2772000 04-05-2019 09:17 AM


Originally Posted by Babukb2 (Post 7724199)
egr/def/dpf delete done here and buzzken pipe put on, also malone stage 1 tuned while getting the deletes

why are you looking for the deletes?

i ask because i thought the full delete was the only solution and i wanted to prevent any other future problems. What prompted me was a adblue heater CEL, but now after the fact i actually found out i could've just had a DEF delete done and left everything else intact because it was still functioning. Would've saved me some money had i known this before.

No it wouldn't. You did the right thing by deleting all that crap now because otherwise, it'd all cost you a fortune afterwards.

Riki986 04-05-2019 09:49 AM


Originally Posted by Babukb2 (Post 7724199)
egr/def/dpf delete done here and buzzken pipe put on, also malone stage 1 tuned while getting the deletes

why are you looking for the deletes?

i ask because i thought the full delete was the only solution and i wanted to prevent any other future problems. What prompted me was a adblue heater CEL, but now after the fact i actually found out i could've just had a DEF delete done and left everything else intact because it was still functioning. Would've saved me some money had i known this before.

I have a 2010 ml w164 350 diesel bluetec 211hp on it
Fuel consumtion terrible vs a friend of mine that did egr dpf and stage 1 250 hp at APR tuning and his fuel consumtion is lowered by 2litres i wanna turn of adblue too so i dont have to worry about it cuz adblue heater is tending to go wrong sometimes it brings cel on my dashboard when its cold
So im loking for more hp cuz 211 for a 3000cc turbocharger engine looks to low in my opinion

kajtek1 04-05-2019 10:59 AM

First, keep in mind that all those modifications are not legal, even if your region has no smog controls. We are allowed to talk about it here, but try to keep it low-profile and any detailed information should be send via PM.
Than if you want lower fuel consumption while gaining more HP, you are in wrong forum.
What you need is a "Miracles Forum" .
Either way, if your system still work, don't go to questionable extremes. Get ScanGauge to monitor DPF regeneration and spend extra time driving around when regeneration happens. This way you will keep DPF healthy for long time.
DEF heaters giving ghost is another story, but seems in last decade you won't find MB who doesn't have expensive maintenance issue sooner or later.
I have 2 identical cars. 1 with DPF delete, other with factory setup. Don't see any differences in performance.
Actually the one with DPF delete shows lower mpg, but I made only 1 long trip with it and we are talking 34 v/s 36 mpg

Riki986 04-05-2019 01:10 PM


Originally Posted by kajtek1 (Post 7724440)
First, keep in mind that all those modifications are not legal, even if your region has no smog controls. We are allowed to talk about it here, but try to keep it low-profile and any detailed information should be send via PM.
Than if you want lower fuel consumption while gaining more HP, you are in wrong forum.
What you need is a "Miracles Forum" .
Either way, if your system still work, don't go to questionable extremes. Get ScanGauge to monitor DPF regeneration and spend extra time driving around when regeneration happens. This way you will keep DPF healthy for long time.
DEF heaters giving ghost is another story, but seems in last decade you won't find MB who doesn't have expensive maintenance issue sooner or later.
I have 2 identical cars. 1 with DPF delete, other with factory setup. Don't see any differences in performance.
Actually the one with DPF delete shows lower mpg, but I made only 1 long trip with it and we are talking 34 v/s 36 mpg

In my state EVERYTHING is allowed trust me mate
I can put a rocket launcher on it and nobody will care lol😂😂
Just wanna know can this engine suffer any issue if i go 250hp and will black smoke appear if i turn off dpf egr def

kajtek1 04-05-2019 03:28 PM

The emission laws are federal and states can only add to it, not cancel it. Obviously when your state doesn't make smog inspection, the enforcement of keeping the engines up to factory design is non-existent.
Still doesn't mean that if an officer notice your car smoking excessively, he can't send you to proper CARB or whatever shop.
Then look what happen in California few years back. The state did not smog diesel, what gave all those diesel truck owners opportunity to modify them out of sense, including 8" exhaust pipes.
So the state managers said enough is enough and made the equipment inspection, even grandfathering them to vehicles over 10 years old. It is called smog inspection, what is not as nobody tests smog, but inspector visually checks if you still have working EGR and other emission equipment. "strangely" other states like to follow California sample and now we have 5 or 7 with the same smog laws... still counting.
When I don't see any smoke behind DPF-deleted car - particles and visible smoke are different things.
You will pollute environment, just without being seen.
I am old enough and coming from Europe I still remember 2-cycle gasoline cars, beside 2-cycle diesels in USA at the time.
Not something I would like to follow today.
I even stop using 2-cycled generator as new technology brought me 4-cycle, inverter generator for $150.
That is why I consider screwing with environmental stuff the last resort.

Babukb2 04-06-2019 12:59 AM

there is absolutely no black smoke coming out on mine after the work
while the engine is still not at operating temp i do however once in a while see white/grey exhaust smoke, nothing abnormal usually, i see plenty of gasoline vehicles on the road emitting just as much if not more exhaust. sometimes though i have seen quite a bit of exhuast coming out of mine, but this is usually just when i start driving on a cold morning.

there is however a stinky smell on mine. peter says his doesn't smell, so im thinking it may be because mine is running richer due to the tune. or maybe something else, his work was done by leaving one of the original cans and taking out the other, while my shop took out both and then installed the buzzken pipe with another doc cat. i contacted buzzken to get more info and he told me that unfortunately that's how Mercedes are and they are known to be stinkier than other diesels (maybe others have experience with deleted mercedes and other deleted diesel cars like VW and could confirm/deny the claim). What buzzken also told me though was different than some of the info i found on a parts breakdown and what some people on this forum thought of my removed parts. i posted pics and someone identified the first smaller can as the dpf and the other larger can as the cat, when i talked to buzzken he told me the first smaller can is technically a combination doc cat and dpf while the second larger can is a scr cat. he also said that the scr cat must be removed if the doc cat/dpf is removed. So we have some different info on the different parts. If buzzken is right then peter may have to keep an eye on things or he may still run into some issues of something getting clogged.

while i am still hoping to find a solution to the stinkiness. it's only noticeable when at a stand still, and i think only while the engine is still getting up to operating temp, although i havent been able to validate this because i don't drive the car enough.
ive recently been looking into fuel fragrances to see if that would be a viable option. summer is coming and driving with windows down would be nice and i dont want to have to wait to get the car fully up to operating temp to roll my windows down. in stop and go traffic that could take 15-20 mins.

although i agree with peter and hope that doing what i did will provide longer trouble free driving and be better long term, i would definitely not do it unless i had to. my adblue heater CEL was initially intermittent, and i just kept clearing it and driving around. i think i drove well over a month from the time the CEL initially popped up. eventually it got to a point where even when i cleared it it would come back within the first drive. If that was the first issue i had i probably wouldve had it fixed, but earlier in the year i actually had replaced 2 nox sensors due to another CEL, so all this was starting to add up and become a problem. i shouldve done it when the nox sensor issue came up, but because i didnt everything ended up costing me double in the end.

keep your adblue topped up and maybe your cel will stay away and you wont have to spend any money on an unnecessary delete/tune. do as kajtek said also and try to keep the dpf healthy. do a delete/tune if you have to because the cost for the delete/tune would be the same as whatever repair you have to do or the repair costs are starting to add up, then i think it would make sense.

tbh i have no clue what hp/torque my car has now, but it is much more enjoyable to drive now with the extra power from the tune =:D

peter2772000 04-06-2019 08:09 AM


Originally Posted by Riki986 (Post 7724561)
In my state EVERYTHING is allowed trust me mate
I can put a rocket launcher on it and nobody will care lol😂😂
Just wanna know can this engine suffer any issue if i go 250hp and will black smoke appear if i turn off dpf egr def

You're an Aussie or a bloke from GB, aren't you LOL?

I was warned I might have black smoke on heavy acceleration, but I don't. I did the DPF/DEF/EGR deletes, but no hp tunes.

Riki986 04-06-2019 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by peter2772000 (Post 7725166)
You're an Aussie or a bloke from GB, aren't you LOL?

I was warned I might have black smoke on heavy acceleration, but I don't. I did the DPF/DEF/EGR deletes, but no hp tunes.

Any change on fuel economy and smoothness when driving and accelerating ?

peter2772000 04-07-2019 06:48 AM

No difference in power level, identical driveability (yes it's a word, I just made it up), but the wife "thinks" the truck gets slightly better fuel mileage.
You didn't answer my question....*wink*

Riki986 04-07-2019 02:33 PM


Originally Posted by peter2772000 (Post 7725858)
No difference in power level, identical driveability (yes it's a word, I just made it up), but the wife "thinks" the truck gets slightly better fuel mileage.
You didn't answer my question....*wink*

South italy

bushx 04-22-2019 06:01 PM

I have an 09 fully deleted and come the following conclusion. I've tested a deleted '08 ML, pre-blue tech, and it didn't smoke as much or smell as much as mine. Best I could determine is the pre-bluetech OM-642, you can delete the DPF and leave the primary catalytic converter in place. However, with the 09+ ML, the DPF is part of the primary cat, and the SCR/ad-blue cat is down stream of this, as another canister if you will. So doing a delete you lose all cataylic converters and you will get a smell from the exhaust. Really noticeable at a stop light, drive through, in the cabin depending on the direction of the wind. Mine is also smoking more than I think it should, some black smoke under heavy load which was to be expected, but also much more smoke at idle, but it's blue-ish, not black. It's going back to the shop that did the tune this week to see if there is an issue with the tune that's causing the smoke at idle. It's enough to think I may have bad turbo oil seal, or PCV valve that's causing it to burn oil. At any rate, I'm going to pay to have a universal cat added back in for the strong smell, but I want to get to the bottom of the smoking issue first.

Babukb2 04-24-2019 11:12 PM


Originally Posted by bushx (Post 7738916)
I have an 09 fully deleted and come the following conclusion. I've tested a deleted '08 ML, pre-blue tech, and it didn't smoke as much or smell as much as mine. Best I could determine is the pre-bluetech OM-642, you can delete the DPF and leave the primary catalytic converter in place. However, with the 09+ ML, the DPF is part of the primary cat, and the SCR/ad-blue cat is down stream of this, as another canister if you will. So doing a delete you lose all cataylic converters and you will get a smell from the exhaust. Really noticeable at a stop light, drive through, in the cabin depending on the direction of the wind. Mine is also smoking more than I think it should, some black smoke under heavy load which was to be expected, but also much more smoke at idle, but it's blue-ish, not black. It's going back to the shop that did the tune this week to see if there is an issue with the tune that's causing the smoke at idle. It's enough to think I may have bad turbo oil seal, or PCV valve that's causing it to burn oil. At any rate, I'm going to pay to have a universal cat added back in for the strong smell, but I want to get to the bottom of the smoking issue first.

this confirms what i was told regarding my 2014 ml350. the guy that made the aftermarket pipe said the primary cat and dpf are one and then there is a secondary can after. both were removed during my delete. they also added a DOC on there, and i do see a small can on the pipe, but the smell is still pretty bad at times. i was wondering if a different type of cat would maybe make a difference.

could you post a follow up after you get the work done and let us know if you still have a bad smell?

Jxp 04-28-2019 06:04 PM

I just did a complete delete on a 2011 ml 350 , it runs great; and your engine will last a lot longer! I used AA Rodriguez in GA!

chsu74 04-29-2019 09:09 AM

Why can't one install an 07-08 cat to 09+ after ABC delete?

kkarb 05-02-2020 04:11 AM


Originally Posted by Babukb2 (Post 7725084)
there is absolutely no black smoke coming out on mine after the work
while the engine is still not at operating temp i do however once in a while see white/grey exhaust smoke, nothing abnormal usually, i see plenty of gasoline vehicles on the road emitting just as much if not more exhaust. sometimes though i have seen quite a bit of exhuast coming out of mine, but this is usually just when i start driving on a cold morning.

there is however a stinky smell on mine. peter says his doesn't smell, so im thinking it may be because mine is running richer due to the tune. or maybe something else, his work was done by leaving one of the original cans and taking out the other, while my shop took out both and then installed the buzzken pipe with another doc cat. i contacted buzzken to get more info and he told me that unfortunately that's how Mercedes are and they are known to be stinkier than other diesels (maybe others have experience with deleted mercedes and other deleted diesel cars like VW and could confirm/deny the claim). What buzzken also told me though was different than some of the info i found on a parts breakdown and what some people on this forum thought of my removed parts. i posted pics and someone identified the first smaller can as the dpf and the other larger can as the cat, when i talked to buzzken he told me the first smaller can is technically a combination doc cat and dpf while the second larger can is a scr cat. he also said that the scr cat must be removed if the doc cat/dpf is removed. So we have some different info on the different parts. If buzzken is right then peter may have to keep an eye on things or he may still run into some issues of something getting clogged.

while i am still hoping to find a solution to the stinkiness. it's only noticeable when at a stand still, and i think only while the engine is still getting up to operating temp, although i havent been able to validate this because i don't drive the car enough.
ive recently been looking into fuel fragrances to see if that would be a viable option. summer is coming and driving with windows down would be nice and i dont want to have to wait to get the car fully up to operating temp to roll my windows down. in stop and go traffic that could take 15-20 mins.

although i agree with peter and hope that doing what i did will provide longer trouble free driving and be better long term, i would definitely not do it unless i had to. my adblue heater CEL was initially intermittent, and i just kept clearing it and driving around. i think i drove well over a month from the time the CEL initially popped up. eventually it got to a point where even when i cleared it it would come back within the first drive. If that was the first issue i had i probably wouldve had it fixed, but earlier in the year i actually had replaced 2 nox sensors due to another CEL, so all this was starting to add up and become a problem. i shouldve done it when the nox sensor issue came up, but because i didnt everything ended up costing me double in the end.

keep your adblue topped up and maybe your cel will stay away and you wont have to spend any money on an unnecessary delete/tune. do as kajtek said also and try to keep the dpf healthy. do a delete/tune if you have to because the cost for the delete/tune would be the same as whatever repair you have to do or the repair costs are starting to add up, then i think it would make sense.

tbh i have no clue what hp/torque my car has now, but it is much more enjoyable to drive now with the extra power from the tune =:D


I have also done the egr, dpf, adblue delete on my w166 ML350 BT. I Also have this smell / odor. But the smell had been better after 7-8 weeks of driving. It smelles worse at the beginning. Than more less week after week. The only thing (mechanical) i did with te dpf was that i opened the dfp at the topp, then i took out the filter, and then welded the dpf together again. Cat behind gear box is stil i plase. My exhaust looks orginal, not modified. My car not smoke, but on extreme use.. If i press kickdown in 70km/h and accelrate up to 140km/h it smokes a bit black under this accelration.

Potrice 05-02-2020 10:21 AM

My cousin did the full delete like Peter (def, swirl flaps, egr), and there is a noticeable smell when the engine is heating up. The smell is weird (like a vinegar smell). The cat is still in place. The tune was from Malone and it's the stock tune (not a performance stage 1 or 2). No problems whatsoever and no black smoke, even if you floor it.

Oliver1232 05-03-2020 10:16 AM

I did it and used a Carlsson CD32 Box

I get better gas 60 foot pounds of tq gain and 40 hp

Night and day difference much better and more fun .

The car has a SLIGHT black smoke under full acceleration but in stock form the smoke is still there its just white ,
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...5a8b482123.jpg

Steiny73 07-15-2020 10:51 AM

W164 2007 ML320 CDI. When I had my EGR and DPF delete, my gearbox changed and I am trying to figure it out why as I don't think egr/dpf has anything to do with the gearbox or I am wrong?
what happens is when I push the kickdown it downshifts 1 gear and after 1 second it downshift the other gear so instead of shifting 2 gears at ones it shifts 1 gear after another which is not normal. I checked for error codes but none are present. There is no limp mode and car runs fine but when I push the kick down or push the gas pedal to the floor without kickdown this happens. I checked the actuator as I had a problem with the oil cooler and we needed to remove the turbo anyway and we noticed the thing that opens for air is moving hard and it moves freely when it shouldn't and we send it to the dealer who works only with turbines and he told me that inside the actuator there are 2 wheels but only one can be replaced. He replaced it and it's a little bit better but told me that when the other wheel gets bad I have to replace the whole actuator as the wheel comes inside it and cannot be replaced. But this is weird as the problem began when I deleted the dpf and egr and I was wondering that the software that was changed to bypass the dpf and egr is wrong and the number sent from the engine to the TCM is wrong and the gearbox don't know what to do and downshifts 1 gear and then another.... Does anyone know what can be the issue here?
Thank you!!!

Babukb2 07-15-2020 09:48 PM


Originally Posted by Steiny73 (Post 8107250)
W164 2007 ML320 CDI. When I had my EGR and DPF delete, my gearbox changed and I am trying to figure it out why as I don't think egr/dpf has anything to do with the gearbox or I am wrong?
what happens is when I push the kickdown it downshifts 1 gear and after 1 second it downshift the other gear so instead of shifting 2 gears at ones it shifts 1 gear after another which is not normal. I checked for error codes but none are present. There is no limp mode and car runs fine but when I push the kick down or push the gas pedal to the floor without kickdown this happens. I checked the actuator as I had a problem with the oil cooler and we needed to remove the turbo anyway and we noticed the thing that opens for air is moving hard and it moves freely when it shouldn't and we send it to the dealer who works only with turbines and he told me that inside the actuator there are 2 wheels but only one can be replaced. He replaced it and it's a little bit better but told me that when the other wheel gets bad I have to replace the whole actuator as the wheel comes inside it and cannot be replaced. But this is weird as the problem began when I deleted the dpf and egr and I was wondering that the software that was changed to bypass the dpf and egr is wrong and the number sent from the engine to the TCM is wrong and the gearbox don't know what to do and downshifts 1 gear and then another.... Does anyone know what can be the issue here?
Thank you!!!

TBH i have no clue what the issue could be, but after i did my delete/tune i thought i had some odd rpm flare ups during shifting. they may or may not have been there before the delete/tune but i just never noticed them before. I had the transmission service done, oil and filter, and also reset the adaptive shifting. i tihnk it helped, because now i just dont notice the issue...or maybe i just got used to it :/
it may not be helpful but here is the link for the procedure i followed to reset the shifting points, it may be worth a try for you to see if it will improve or change anything. hopefully some of the more mechanically savvy people can chime in on your issue

http://www.mercedesmedic.com/reset-m...-instructions/

Steiny73 07-16-2020 03:05 AM

I tried the reset and it works fine for 10 minutes and then the issue comes back.

Babukb2 07-16-2020 11:29 PM

weird, from that article it does state that approximately for 15 minutes after you do the reset you should drive normal as that is the "learning" period. seems like yours shifts fine for the first little bit and then goes back to not shifting well, might be a computer problem and maybe happened due to the tune/delete.
if this started right after you had your delete/tune done, i would definitely be going back to whomever did the delete/tune


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