Heated seats issue
#1
Heated seats issue
When i press the button for the heater in the seat the 3 light turn on for about 15 seconds and turn off again
i check with icarsoft mb ii i got this two codes
this is came after doing upholstery for front seats for cracked leather
i check with icarsoft mb ii i got this two codes
this is came after doing upholstery for front seats for cracked leather
#2
Out Of Control!!
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
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'71 Pinto
Heating element is incorporated into foam padding, may have been damaged during reupholstery process. First step, check harness for damage. Post VIN, I will pull replacement part # if needed.
#3
thank for all this Useful information
I looked under the seats and I find out that he cut some wires because he could not disconnect them and he supposed to solder them and connect them but I think maybe there is an issue in The solder tomorrow I’ll go back to him and make sure and check the wires
#4
I have check all the wire that have been cut and
reconnect them by twisting the two wire end and seal them with electric tape
but still the same issue and the same codes
any help?
reconnect them by twisting the two wire end and seal them with electric tape
but still the same issue and the same codes
any help?
#5
Super Member
The shop should be responsible for this issue because they did the repair to the seat. Since you took the initiative of getting the issue resolved, now the shop is counting on you to trouble shoot the problem. This is not right! Get the shop to do the work, not you!
#6
Super Member
Now that you soldered them Im guessing the shop in question will blame any and all on you.
So you're saying the heaters worked before this "shop" messed with it? As in you only noticed it after, or for sure it worked before?
If it did work then I'd bet they cut something else too. Well, duh, but I mean I'd look around for other stuff wrong... Like any other connections in the seat or car he could've ruined? Could it be as simple as a fuse? Did you check for trons at the wires you soldered? When it comes to wiring I often bypass all the wires with all new. Like for example if a tail light won't work but everything is "fine". Run new wires and we'll see it try to not work now
So you're saying the heaters worked before this "shop" messed with it? As in you only noticed it after, or for sure it worked before?
If it did work then I'd bet they cut something else too. Well, duh, but I mean I'd look around for other stuff wrong... Like any other connections in the seat or car he could've ruined? Could it be as simple as a fuse? Did you check for trons at the wires you soldered? When it comes to wiring I often bypass all the wires with all new. Like for example if a tail light won't work but everything is "fine". Run new wires and we'll see it try to not work now
#7
anyone have ideas ?
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#8
Super Member
Aside from the fuse I'd use a multi-tester to check to see if the wire(s) are broken elsewhere as well. My guess is it applies power, see nothing is happening and kills power + pops a code. My guess is it would do the same if the seat drew too much current, but I'm guessing this is unlikely. A tester can verify the wire is not cut, and most testers will check up 10A current. Just saying if yours is drawing power, you could compare it to the other seat and see if they match. By my $ is on a fuse or cut wire, which includes pulled outta a socket, ripped, unplugged etc...
Harbor Freight often give testers out for free, otherwise they're pretty cheap on Amazon or Ebay, like $10-15... If you need help using it I can try to check the forum soon, but I'm forgetful... I also have a basic electronics book in .pdf I'd be happy to share. But basically you just set the meter to Ohms, or the Ohm symbol that looks like a horse shoe, then put one probe on each of the wires in the seat, which you have now unplugged so there's no power and you have the two terminals exposed. If it give a low # like <2 it's good. If it won't read or it's a very high # like in the thousands then it's bad, meaning a broken wire etc. Then you can set the meter to read voltage in the 20V DC and less range and put in on the plug coming from the car, and turn on the heater. It should read 12-14 or so volts. If zero then it's not supplying power to seat in the first place, which is usually a fuse.
Harbor Freight often give testers out for free, otherwise they're pretty cheap on Amazon or Ebay, like $10-15... If you need help using it I can try to check the forum soon, but I'm forgetful... I also have a basic electronics book in .pdf I'd be happy to share. But basically you just set the meter to Ohms, or the Ohm symbol that looks like a horse shoe, then put one probe on each of the wires in the seat, which you have now unplugged so there's no power and you have the two terminals exposed. If it give a low # like <2 it's good. If it won't read or it's a very high # like in the thousands then it's bad, meaning a broken wire etc. Then you can set the meter to read voltage in the 20V DC and less range and put in on the plug coming from the car, and turn on the heater. It should read 12-14 or so volts. If zero then it's not supplying power to seat in the first place, which is usually a fuse.
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