BATComm1

I've owned a 420sl before and loved the car, wife hated it...to big for her...So..Many years down the road and new wife I am looking (havent physically seen, will tomorrow) a 240D, manual that has been converted to a 300 turbo diesel, Ive been told by the current owner that it was a Mercedes mechanic that did the swap, clutch and related changed at swap as well as engine "resealed" supposed to have only 90K on the engine everything in working condition ac, heat ect. I will have access to the name and contact for the mechanic. I'm a car nut, built engines, raced cars, into vw's now but this one intrigues me...looking for a good driver.. just not familiar with the 240d.

My question.... what should I look for, what should I expect...already been told its the usual slow Mercedes but is a solid driver with no issues.... Advice??

Thanks ahead of time on this....

rocky raccoon

If the engine swap was well done, the car will NOT be slow. The 240D is a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder diesel whereas the 300D turbo is a 5 cylinder force-fed diesel. I have had two and now drive a coupe version every day. It has 360k miles and will accelerate with any reasonable traffic and cruise all day at 80mph. In my opinion, the manual tranny is a plus. I wish I had one in my car.

Sounds good but don't overpay. Look at ebay for reasonable price range.

BATComm1

Thanks Rocky!! I'm waiting on pictures as we speak and if those look good maybe a visit later today or tomorrow, he has also stated he has another complete rear end that will go with it for more highway "friendly" gears.. Just didn't know if the 240D had any inherent problems to look for or if the 300D had any....

Price will be kinda be a mute point to an extent, I have a vehicle he has already looked at and likes so could be a trade situation.....

rocky raccoon

The 240D had a lower range diff (3.69) to mitigate it's 4 cylinder dieselness. The 300D turbo has a 3.46. If that is what is offered, take it. The Holy Grail is a 2.88 from a 1985 turbo diesel. That will offer a smooth, quiet highway ride at the expense of a little acceleration that you probably won't miss with the turbo 5 cylinder. If that is what is offered take it and keep a straight face when paying. Of course any change will require the right speedometer to make sense.

BATComm1

Again, thank you...still waiting on the pictures we will see....Ill have to ask if he knows what the extra rear came out of...

BATComm1

Was there a 3.32 ratio offered, he believes that is what it is.......

rocky raccoon

Don' know. There should be a part number on the casting.

BATComm1

Awesome I will check that once I get pics and if this goes further...

BATComm1

Well I got it!!! Its an 81 240D, body has original 135,xxx miles Engine was swapped to a 300TD about 2 years ago, no paperwork to prove the miles on the engine but talked to the owner/mechanic that did the work and he says it had 93K on it.

I drove it a little over 60 miles home and I agree it needs a 5th gear or the 3rd member swap out, which I got a 3rd member with the deal but havent got the numbers off of it as of yet,,,everything in the interior seems to work have to figure out what some of the symbols are on the dash lights and the ac/heat controls are but I figured them out enough not to freeze to death on the drive home!!

So far so good, one thing when I shut the key off it takes the engine a good 5 to 8 seconds to die...normal??

Now to search for a 240D owners manual.......

rocky raccoon

Should shut off instantly. The delay is indicative of a vacuum leak. Shutdown for a diesel is accomplished by cutting off the fuel by a vacuum-operated valve.

Congratulations! Sounds like a good car. Photos would be good.

rocky raccoon

Any of the cd-based reprints on ebay will work. The Owner's manual is included in those. You can augment with a Haynes manual but take care in some of their numerical specs. Paper manuals are NLA unless you find an old grease-stained one.

BTW, I am also monitoring your posts in PeachParts but see no reason to duplicate.

BATComm1

Ok great, and thank you on the Peachparts forum!! I was shown where most of the vacuum lines were installed on the swap just will need to figure out which one it is and go from there...I was looking at some of the manuals on eBay figured I would get teo sets one for the 240D part and another for the 300TD, just getting the correct year on the engine is the deal..I think its a OM617...

Anyway I'm sure lots of fun in my future exploring this thing ...I'll get some pics of it on here soon...its 24 degrees right now...but I still want to go out and tinker..

BATComm1

Just ordered a full set of manuals on CD.....

BATComm1

81 240D with a 300TD swap 4spd.

rocky raccoon

Beautiful! I love these cars. I have had a 1976 300D (W115), a 1984 300D and am now driving a 1983 300CD. Also have a 2008 E320 (also a Diesel). That is my wife's ride. There is nothing I would rather drive than a mid-80s 300D.

rocky raccoon

Vacuum line leaks are generally at the overaged soft rubber connectors. If the hard vacuum line moves easily in the connector, the rubber has hardened and will no longer seal. I would get a large assortment of rubber connectors (ebay, big box auto store or dealer) and replace them all. All hard vacuum lines are the same size.

There is also a vacuum accumulator in the overhead of the trunk. This retains vacuum for several opening/closing cycles of the door locks. Check it for leak. Looks like a black egg carton.

BATComm1

I'll check on the vacuum lines for sure and do the rubber line replacement, got the other rear end out and it is stamped with a 3.07, wondering if that will be worth the difference on changing out to get more of a highway friendly situation or hold out for the 2.88

rocky raccoon

Someone smarter than I can do the rpm vs. road speed calculation but I think either one would be a big improvement.

BATComm1

I found a simple calculator on line, just asks for rear ratio, tire diameter and desired speed. at 80 MPH, the stock hit me at 5668 RPM, with the 2.88 4424 RPM, so 1244 difference... 3.07 is 4716 RPM

rapidoxidation

Vacuum leaks:
Each door has vacuum lines going to/from for the door locks. The hinge area is where they like to break.
The oil filter cartridge on the 300D is tucked up against the firewall on the driver's side of the engine. There are vacuum lines above it that have to be moved to pull the filter cover off. Pretty easy to not plug a line back in. I'd start there.
If your engine ever absolutely won't turn off, there's an "emergency" shutoff lever mounted on the injector pump. It says "STOP". Push it.

BATComm1

Thank you rapid, I was looking on line at some of the vacuum diagrams got home after dark so no messing around with it tonight....and I was aware of the "stop" on the throttle, the red sticker is actually still on it. hopefully make it home before dark tomorrow...I hate daylight saving time!!!

vwnate1

12.23.18

?Still happy with it ? .

Looks like a nice one .

BATComm1

Still like it allot!! Working out little issues, want to do the rear swap to the 3.07 that I have (has 3.69 now) and do the speedo change out, or find the gear tooth count to check what I have because right now it reads faster than I'm going, want to do the LED (which bulbs from where) dash light change out.. Need to get my key issue sorted out, key works in ignition and trunk but not doors, and get a tach installed.. Just a small list.. LOL!!

Going in for surgery on the 26th so I'll be NOT working on it for 3 weeks or so but have plenty of time to read and bug everyone with questions!!

vwnate1

Sorry to hear you need surgery but it's usually worth the hassle ~ mine certainly have been, I've had too many but am still plodding along .

The 3.07 final drive will allow very relaxed highway/freeway cruising .

Depending on your financial situation and mechanical ability there are different ways to get the locks sorted out .

The ignition tumbler, I've never been able to re key one , I've not tried the glovebox lock but the doors are do - able if fiddly .

Buy some used door handles and take them apart and learn how the flat brass wafers fit and are different sizes you can shuffle them when fitting the original keys to create matching locks .

To do this properly you'll need one original key from the Mercedes Classic Center, not a copy made locally .

There's always something to do on any older German car, the neat part is : you can take it apart further than you can get parts for, meaning most of the time you can take something apart and clean / lubricate / adjust it an make it work as new again .

This is sort of a slow forum, yahoo has a really good one and there's Peach Parts forums but they can get rough there .

BATComm1

Yes, had several myself just another to add to the list!!

Been looking for a 2.88 but, like you stated I think the 3.07 will do what I want.

Been reading on the locks and I'm going to give it a try, can't hurt anything at this point!!

Thank you for the reply and I am on Peach also lots of good guys on there also.