E-Class (W123) 1976-1986: 240D, 280E, 300D, 300TD, 300CD

W123 Rally Build

Old 04-13-2019, 05:03 PM
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Looking for another W123
W123 Rally Build

A buddy and I are on the hunt for an inexpensive (sub $1k) W123 for a rally car build to compete and FINISH a 5-day road rally this summer. I'd love to know what are the details that would make you walk away from a cheap W123 that only needs to last a week of hard driving... and hopefully much longer that that!

Our main requirements are that the car must have an engine that runs, a transmission that shifts, and brakes that stop. We would prefer not to have to spend much money to do those three things better, but there is a budget for very limited upgrades. We aim to rely on the W123's reputation for being a super durable car and with some general TLC it will just work well for our 5-day rally in California.

The goal is to do this all on the cheap and show the rally participants how AWESOME a $500+ W123 can be.

Thanks for your feedback. I'll post more here as the project progresses.
Old 04-15-2019, 10:45 AM
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You're likely to be very disappointed .

Most cheap Mercedes are cheap precisely because they're loaded with problems caused by lack of any maintenance .

Look for a gasser 6 cylinder one, the M110 engine is thirsty but pretty powerful .

Look at police impound auctions, they're everywhere, focus on the DWI impounds, more chance they were running when impounded .

Have fun if possible .
Old 04-16-2019, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by vwnate1
You're likely to be very disappointed .

Most cheap Mercedes are cheap precisely because they're loaded with problems caused by lack of any maintenance .

Look for a gasser 6 cylinder one, the M110 engine is thirsty but pretty powerful .

Look at police impound auctions, they're everywhere, focus on the DWI impounds, more chance they were running when impounded .

Have fun if possible .
I know there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes. With that said, we're in search of a project car that needs a new home and a last chance at life. This car might be one step away from being a parts car at the salvage yard. We are pretty set on a turbo diesel 300D sedan or coupe.

Here are a few minor requirements: It must have a diesel engine that runs, a transmission that shifts, and brakes that stop. Extra points for being in terrible cosmetic condition.

We plan to enter the Lemons "HELL ON WHEELS MONTEREY RALLY 2019". They don't have a purchase price rule like the 24-Hours-of-Lemons races, but the point of the rally is to drive a crappy car and you earn points based on certain details. We get +50 For pre-’90s German diesel, and as you know the W123 diesels are super durable, so we want one over a gas car.

There are plenty of 300Ds for $1500-$1700. We're trying to find a car that needs some TLC that we can do ourselves and get it for close to $500+ and put a little money into it and learn about working on the car as a spring and summer project leading up to the rally in August. It only needs to last 5+ days, and hopefully a lot more.

I haven't owned a W123 for over 30 years, and I have forgotten what to look out for when inspecting the engine before purchasing. I'd love to get some tips on what to look for (common issues) before we go look at a car.
Old 04-16-2019, 08:32 AM
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Since you only need five days running, the engine will be the easiest part ~ make the inspection in the morning and insist the car hasn't been started before you get there, tell them you'll walk away of you touch the exhaust and it's warm .

Crank the engine the *instant* the glow plugs lamp goes out and if it springs to life in three cranks or so and runs on all five cylinders, you're golden .

The blowby won't matter, hot change the oil & filter using straight 30W Diesel rated oil and carry a few quarts spare .

Once it's running and idling put the tranny into reverse and see how long it takes before it takes up ~ longer than 30 seconds means it's going but again, for this particular need who cares ? . if it shifts three times going forward just do a hot oil and filter change and add a bottle of 'Tranx-X' and forgeddaboutit .

Drain & re fill the power steering with ATF and again, forget abut it, the pulley will almost certainly drip but shouldn't give any troubles .

Same with the coolant ~ unless it's new, drain it and run a yellow can of Prestone flush through it a few days while you're sorting out the odds & ends, remember to leave the monovlve unplugged so the entire cooling system will be cleaned , replace the belts if cracked using same # junkyard belts and toss the old ones in the trunk .

Replace the brake pads, and re pack the front wheel bearings, on't touch the rotors no matter how bad they look .

Pitch a ***** about any and all cosmetic issues as if you really care and offer $600, walk away and look at others, there are plenty in So. Cal. and no one wants them anymore .

I hope you take and share lots of pictures, you're chosen the right car to run hard & flat out as long as you cover the basics all of which are sure to be un treated in any W123 you buy .
Old 04-16-2019, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by vwnate1
Since you only need five days running, the engine will be the easiest part ~ make the inspection in the morning and insist the car hasn't been started before you get there, tell them you'll walk away of you touch the exhaust and it's warm .

Crank the engine the *instant* the glow plugs lamp goes out and if it springs to life in three cranks or so and runs on all five cylinders, you're golden .

The blowby won't matter, hot change the oil & filter using straight 30W Diesel rated oil and carry a few quarts spare .

Once it's running and idling put the tranny into reverse and see how long it takes before it takes up ~ longer than 30 seconds means it's going but again, for this particular need who cares ? . if it shifts three times going forward just do a hot oil and filter change and add a bottle of 'Tranx-X' and forgeddaboutit .

Drain & re fill the power steering with ATF and again, forget abut it, the pulley will almost certainly drip but shouldn't give any troubles .

Same with the coolant ~ unless it's new, drain it and run a yellow can of Prestone flush through it a few days while you're sorting out the odds & ends, remember to leave the monovlve unplugged so the entire cooling system will be cleaned , replace the belts if cracked using same # junkyard belts and toss the old ones in the trunk .

Replace the brake pads, and re pack the front wheel bearings, on't touch the rotors no matter how bad they look .

Pitch a ***** about any and all cosmetic issues as if you really care and offer $600, walk away and look at others, there are plenty in So. Cal. and no one wants them anymore .

I hope you take and share lots of pictures, you're chosen the right car to run hard & flat out as long as you cover the basics all of which are sure to be un treated in any W123 you buy .
@vwnate

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. This is exactly the type of info we're seeking.

Here are two local W123a under consideration... Thoughts?

1982 Mercedes 300cd turbodiesel 2door hardtop - $1500 (Sebastopol CA)
Ad details: Needs tune up, tlc & tires, moonroof needs repairs
Notes: Tires = $250-$400+ mounting

1983 Mercedes 300 TD turbo diesel As Is - $500
Ad details: Needs a cylinder head work.
Notes: Reply from the owner about the cylinder head issue: "It need a good cylinder head to put on that’s it"

Thanks!
Old 04-17-2019, 09:00 AM
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4.17.19

I see you posted a reply then deleted it ~ does this mean you bought a car ? .

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. This is exactly the type of info we're seeking.

Here are two local W123a under consideration... Thoughts?

1982 Mercedes 300cd turbodiesel 2door hardtop - $1500 (Sebastopol CA) (https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto...864790593.html)
Ad details: Needs tune up, tlc & tires, moonroof needs repairs
Notes: Tires = $250-$400+ mounting

1983 Mercedes 300 TD turbo diesel As Is - $500 (https://sacramento.craigslist.org/ct...842484174.html)
Ad details: Needs a cylinder head work.
Notes: Reply from the owner about the cylinder head issue: "It need a good cylinder head to put on that’s it"

Thanks!
***************
Old 04-17-2019, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by vwnate1
4.17.19
I see you posted a reply then deleted it ~ does this mean you bought a car ? .
No, I posted the reply last night. It didn't show up in the forum after I posted, so I tried to repost and it said I posted a duplicate, so I canceled that second one. Then I didn't see my post until this morning. Is this how the forum posting works here? Perhaps since I just joined my posts have to be approved by the admin. Not the experience expect in a forum. :/

Still looking at local cars. I hope to go see one or more at the end of the month. Too busy with family activities this weekend and my rally partner is out of town.
Old 04-17-2019, 06:14 PM
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So ;

Go grab that first one ~ it looks like it'll do fine .

The second one might be a red herring, no way you'll buy it and replace the cylinder head for $1,000.00, then you'll still need belts, brakes, hoses, filters, on and on.....

? Did he say why it "needs a cylinder head " ? .
Old 04-18-2019, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by vwnate1
Go grab that first one ~ it looks like it'll do fine .

The second one might be a red herring, no way you'll buy it and replace the cylinder head for $1,000.00, then you'll still need belts, brakes, hoses, filters, on and on.....

? Did he say why it "needs a cylinder head " ? .
@vwnate

No he didn't offer much more info in the email reply. We're not pursuing that one at the moment. If the first one is around at the end of the month, we will try to look at it. No time this weekend.

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