260 E needs help...
 

I'm hoping that someone can give me ideas before I have to sell this car (I really don't want to do that)

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...germantaxi.jpg

(She looks exactly like that)

At any rate, what has happened is, there are times when it just won't start. The alternator is new (the owner before me put it in...that was about four months ago), I bought a new starter and a new battery for it. According to the mechanic, what he thinks may be happening is that the transmission isn't going into park, and we all know a car won't start unless it's in park or neutral. When this occurs (once a day for the last week!) I literally have to shake the car multiple times before it starts up again.

Has anyone had a similar problem? I don't want to part with this car, but I am afraid that I may have to...:(

A wise man once said....."check your OVP relay."

:rolf: Right as you were replying (no joke) I found the thread from shangoof where he was told of the OVP. Sounds like a 124 vd =P

Thanks! I'm taking her to MBZ tomorrow. I was looking at the photos I took for the "ad" I was about to post on ebay to sell the car, but I realised I'm too much of a fanatic to do that.

You don't need to take it to a MB tech to check it out. Its located behind the battery right next to the ECU. Its a silver colored relay w/ a red top that has a clear plastic cover on it. It covers a 10 amp wedge fuse. You usually never have to replace the entire relay, just the fuse inside it.

Dude you are right, right, and way right. It's next to the ABS thingy? My ABS light has been on for the better part of a month!

From what I can recollect its in the vicinity of the ABS sensor connector but I don't know if its next to a ABS relay or something. Usually when the ABS light comes on it means the sensor has gone out. The thing is its hardly ever the sensor that breaks but the crusty old wiring leading to the sensor deteriorates. You can still operate the vehicle safely without the ABS working, you simply just won't have ABS. Unless you'd be willing to cough up a good chunk of change for parts and labor you're better off without it. This is just my experience though, have a mechanic confirm it before you go disconnecting anything.

IT should take you no longer than 5 minutes to do.

Disconnect battery
pull battery out
remove plastic (black) wall you see behind battery
replace fuse inside flip-lid

Done.

They don't call you Captain OVP for nothing!

:naughty:

GRRR! I called a master mechanic, and he laughed at the fact that I'd replaced EVERYTHING...before the OVP =P

Bummer =/ that's not really funny...

Hey man to answer your pm my headlights are Ebay projectore STYLE reflectors.

:)

-Hen

Hey Henry, are those Italian headlights?

Did they come with fettuchini?

no, rotatore.

ah, portabellisimo!

lamparas fantasticas de Italia!

thanks, y'all! she now starts even better than she did before--and the horrid abs light went away.

'Course, now she's got another common mercedes ailment...the flaring tranny...

Start problem W124/300TE
 

Hi fernan_b.

Just to go a back in time; you wrote that the MB could not start, was it the ignition that did 'nt work, or did'nt the engine rotate at all ?

I have a similar problem with W124/300TE 1989, sometimes (often) it wont' ignite, and again other times it wil. Once it have started, there are no problems at all, and if I shut it down and tries to start it again, it rotates but will not ignite.
Then suddenly it will, and suddenly it wont'........but again the problem is ONLY during start sequense, regardless if it's cold or warm.

Does anyone have any suggestion ?

Thanks in advance.

Brgds JBN :confused:
(Denmark)

read this entrie page and you'll find some answers.

Hi.

Regarding the starting problem of the 300TE:

Due to no ignition at all between coil and distributor, coil measured ok,
EZL unit mearsured to receive 12V and ground ok, HT lead between coil and distributor replaced ok, and even the final properbly cause; the crank position sensor replaced w/o success, I finally solved the problem :

I got a used ignition module (EZL unit) from a used car shop, and after replacement of the unit, there have not been any problems what so ever.

Brgds JBN:y

off topic but when my cars off the voltage is about 11.4v when running its 12.6v...this is probably an inaccurate reading coming from my beltronics radar detector..LOL but is that ok? i cant read the service manual as my cars sittin goutside somework shop waiting to be examided wether i need a new radiator or hoses..as it overheated today..

Wow--I guess it's true; we don't learn from our past. I am now encountering the same problem with my 300E. Time to replace the fuse! Thank goodness this thread was archived.