Engine Removal Question
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Engine Removal Question
Greetings all,
I don't post much on this forum but I troll for info like everyone else. Now I'd like to contribute by letting you guys know what I'm up to.
Some of you may know me from my YouTube channel, Yogi's Garage. Recently, I've been working on a 2002 Porsche 911 that I rescued from Florida. About 6 months ago I purchased a 95 E320 Wagon from a "friend" which turned out to be a dud. Someone decided to trash the engine by tossing nuts and bolts into the intake. The ones that made it past the valves destroyed cylinders 5 and 6, thus destroying the block and head. I finally was able to source a donor 3.2 and am ready to pull the engine. My question is whether or not the transmission has to come out with the engine. Official repair guide states (briefly) remove the entire power unit but I'm not convinced it's necessary. The engine bay is HUGE and it looks like I can disconnect the transmission and leave it in place. But, since I'm newb to the W124 I'm looking for advice and recommendations.
Take a look at my Audi series called "Project: Olaf" where I was advised to remove the whole unit but after I did I realized it could have been left behind. My Porsche, Project: Pepper I also removed the manual gearbox but intended on flushing it out anyway. However, the box is small enough not to require much more effort. The Benz on the other hand is HUGE and with now two projects going in my garage, real estate is at a premium. I'm hoping to just pull the engine and install the donor back in the car. I have an engine hoist. Let me know your thoughts.
I don't post much on this forum but I troll for info like everyone else. Now I'd like to contribute by letting you guys know what I'm up to.
Some of you may know me from my YouTube channel, Yogi's Garage. Recently, I've been working on a 2002 Porsche 911 that I rescued from Florida. About 6 months ago I purchased a 95 E320 Wagon from a "friend" which turned out to be a dud. Someone decided to trash the engine by tossing nuts and bolts into the intake. The ones that made it past the valves destroyed cylinders 5 and 6, thus destroying the block and head. I finally was able to source a donor 3.2 and am ready to pull the engine. My question is whether or not the transmission has to come out with the engine. Official repair guide states (briefly) remove the entire power unit but I'm not convinced it's necessary. The engine bay is HUGE and it looks like I can disconnect the transmission and leave it in place. But, since I'm newb to the W124 I'm looking for advice and recommendations.
Take a look at my Audi series called "Project: Olaf" where I was advised to remove the whole unit but after I did I realized it could have been left behind. My Porsche, Project: Pepper I also removed the manual gearbox but intended on flushing it out anyway. However, the box is small enough not to require much more effort. The Benz on the other hand is HUGE and with now two projects going in my garage, real estate is at a premium. I'm hoping to just pull the engine and install the donor back in the car. I have an engine hoist. Let me know your thoughts.
#2
if you want the trans and engine out disconnect the steering center link and pull everything out the front, remove the radiator too, if you want to remove just the engine unbolt the trans bolts , leave center steering link and pull engine out the front, however the top trans bolts are hard to reach, its easier to just pull everything out the front
Last edited by lululu; 06-04-2022 at 12:32 AM.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
if you want the trans and engine out disconnect the steering center link and pull everything out the front, remove the radiator too, if you want to remove just the engine unbolt the trans bolts , leave center steering link and pull engine out the front, however the top trans bolts are hard to reach, its easier to just pull everything out the front
#4
Super Member
This is when one wishes the car was manual transmission. All bolts easily accessible from top and bottom in that case. I do not have much to add to this discussion otherwise though as I do not know the answer. However, I'm pretty sure the transmissions for these cars are pulled with the engine in the car as far as I know. So would the reverse not be true?
One word of caution though in your case, the life of a auto transmission '95 W124 is about 150K miles due to a weak design choice of materials in the reverse clutch seal. The plastic was later replaced to a metallic seal. Unfortunately the trans has to be rebuilt just for that.
It could go over 200K miles, or it could loose the reverse like my sportline did at 145K miles. I was the original owner, and the new owner who had ruined his engine due to a neglected head gasket issue (another design defect) swapped his transmission into my sportline and chucked his '95.
- Cheers!
One word of caution though in your case, the life of a auto transmission '95 W124 is about 150K miles due to a weak design choice of materials in the reverse clutch seal. The plastic was later replaced to a metallic seal. Unfortunately the trans has to be rebuilt just for that.
It could go over 200K miles, or it could loose the reverse like my sportline did at 145K miles. I was the original owner, and the new owner who had ruined his engine due to a neglected head gasket issue (another design defect) swapped his transmission into my sportline and chucked his '95.
- Cheers!
#5
Member
Thread Starter
This is when one wishes the car was manual transmission. All bolts easily accessible from top and bottom in that case. I do not have much to add to this discussion otherwise though as I do not know the answer. However, I'm pretty sure the transmissions for these cars are pulled with the engine in the car as far as I know. So would the reverse not be true?
One word of caution though in your case, the life of a auto transmission '95 W124 is about 150K miles due to a weak design choice of materials in the reverse clutch seal. The plastic was later replaced to a metallic seal. Unfortunately the trans has to be rebuilt just for that.
It could go over 200K miles, or it could loose the reverse like my sportline did at 145K miles. I was the original owner, and the new owner who had ruined his engine due to a neglected head gasket issue (another design defect) swapped his transmission into my sportline and chucked his '95.
- Cheers!
One word of caution though in your case, the life of a auto transmission '95 W124 is about 150K miles due to a weak design choice of materials in the reverse clutch seal. The plastic was later replaced to a metallic seal. Unfortunately the trans has to be rebuilt just for that.
It could go over 200K miles, or it could loose the reverse like my sportline did at 145K miles. I was the original owner, and the new owner who had ruined his engine due to a neglected head gasket issue (another design defect) swapped his transmission into my sportline and chucked his '95.
- Cheers!
#6
Super Member
Seems you may have already started taking things apart but if the car is still in running condition, I would start it in the morning and while the transmission is still cold put it in reverse right away.
See how long it takes to engage. If it takes long like a couple of seconds, you have your answer, the reverse clutch seal could be on it's way out. If it has not been rebuilt at 225K, I would be nervous, very nervous about replacing the engine without servicing the transmission.
There are two camps on changing the trans fluid on these cars. Most of the time it does more harm then good if it has not been replaced in a long time. So if it has been serviced regularly you will see no short term change of course. If it has been neglected for a long time then new fluid I hear can make it worse unexpectedly. So there is no winning with the flush. I would just drain a tiny bit and see how the fluid looks. If it is in really bad shape, I would then stop and question whether you should continue to flush it.
- Cheers!
See how long it takes to engage. If it takes long like a couple of seconds, you have your answer, the reverse clutch seal could be on it's way out. If it has not been rebuilt at 225K, I would be nervous, very nervous about replacing the engine without servicing the transmission.
There are two camps on changing the trans fluid on these cars. Most of the time it does more harm then good if it has not been replaced in a long time. So if it has been serviced regularly you will see no short term change of course. If it has been neglected for a long time then new fluid I hear can make it worse unexpectedly. So there is no winning with the flush. I would just drain a tiny bit and see how the fluid looks. If it is in really bad shape, I would then stop and question whether you should continue to flush it.
- Cheers!
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Seems you may have already started taking things apart but if the car is still in running condition, I would start it in the morning and while the transmission is still cold put it in reverse right away.
See how long it takes to engage. If it takes long like a couple of seconds, you have your answer, the reverse clutch seal could be on it's way out. If it has not been rebuilt at 225K, I would be nervous, very nervous about replacing the engine without servicing the transmission.
There are two camps on changing the trans fluid on these cars. Most of the time it does more harm then good if it has not been replaced in a long time. So if it has been serviced regularly you will see no short term change of course. If it has been neglected for a long time then new fluid I hear can make it worse unexpectedly. So there is no winning with the flush. I would just drain a tiny bit and see how the fluid looks. If it is in really bad shape, I would then stop and question whether you should continue to flush it.
- Cheers!
See how long it takes to engage. If it takes long like a couple of seconds, you have your answer, the reverse clutch seal could be on it's way out. If it has not been rebuilt at 225K, I would be nervous, very nervous about replacing the engine without servicing the transmission.
There are two camps on changing the trans fluid on these cars. Most of the time it does more harm then good if it has not been replaced in a long time. So if it has been serviced regularly you will see no short term change of course. If it has been neglected for a long time then new fluid I hear can make it worse unexpectedly. So there is no winning with the flush. I would just drain a tiny bit and see how the fluid looks. If it is in really bad shape, I would then stop and question whether you should continue to flush it.
- Cheers!
Addendum to my question. I'm disconnecting the transmission drive shaft and had a question. Can I remove the transmission mount(the one with the exhaust mount point)? Also How do I disconnect the black conduit (see arrow)? Or do I even have to? Thanks.
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#9
Member
Thread Starter
#10
Super Member
So you decided to remove the transmission and the engine as a unit then. Yes, the support would have to be taken off at some point or if you are pulling the engine/trans I suppose you can also just unbolt the mount from the transmission. There is no harm in removing the entire support but that will drop the trans side down a bit. I assume you are unbolting the flex-disk first.
#11
Member
Thread Starter
So you decided to remove the transmission and the engine as a unit then. Yes, the support would have to be taken off at some point or if you are pulling the engine/trans I suppose you can also just unbolt the mount from the transmission. There is no harm in removing the entire support but that will drop the trans side down a bit. I assume you are unbolting the flex-disk first.
#12
Super Member
Good luck! Please post your experiences as we all will have to do this some day. Engines are not getting any younger neither are we ....
- Cheers!
- Cheers!
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Yogibara (06-06-2022)
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Indeed, age is the great equalizer. I’ll be posting updates here linking to my channel. Not very many general engine out/in videos for the w104 out there. Some turbo mods, and swaps
#15
Member
Thread Starter
I’ve already pretty much got it all disconnected so it’s coming out together. I’ll be pulling it tonight. Disconnecting the flex plate was a PITA when the car is sitting on jack stands.
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Got it out. This was not the least bit fun. In fact it was quite crappy. I initially tried to lift it out with the hoist in the shortest position. There wasn't enough forward/backward room so I and to lower it back in and extend it. The ratchet straps served no purpose. The angle was so steep that I couldn't level it back because the cheap handle hits the chain so I ended up cutting it off and using a ratchet instead. Boom, level and out. I'll need a new plastic fan as it broke on the front lip. Speaking of front lip, it's slightly bent forward. lol
#17
Super Member
I think you may have had to remove the front bar for this. But you got it. Congratulations! I would drain the tranny fluid and see how it looks.
- Happy Friday
- Happy Friday
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Happy Saturday everyone, just a quick update on this wagon. I successfully installed the power unit and resolved the transmission leak on piston 2! Just a few more vacuum leaks fixed and BOOM! he's purring like a kitten again. A/C not working and tried to recharge but gauge was in the red so something else is amiss. I'm running multiple projects so if you like Porsches then you'll like that content as well. Enjoy!