1988 300TE - Misfires - Part #2

I have all the basic tools like that in my garage, but thanks for the tips. I really appreciate all your help. Let's hope by the end of next week I can say SOLVED and move onto the smaller things.
Oh that reminds me -- think accessing the transmission modulator would be easier while I do this? I took the car to a mechanic and he said it was shifting hard and so he "adjusted it"....but its just horrible. Going uphill it has a massive hard clunk dropping gear....it hangs revs at the top end before shifting and although it shifts smoother, its slower and I don't think that the hard clunk when dropping gears should be happening. It never used to do anything like that. I have found out how to adjust it via a pin....I just gotta find the damn thing

EDIT: I found a picture, but I can't seem to figure out where that is:
Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 22, 2008 at 11:13 AM.

I have all the basic tools like that in my garage, but thanks for the tips. I really appreciate all your help. Let's hope by the end of next week I can say SOLVED and move onto the smaller things.
Oh that reminds me -- think accessing the transmission modulator would be easier while I do this? I took the car to a mechanic and he said it was shifting hard and so he "adjusted it"....but its just horrible. Going uphill it has a massive hard clunk dropping gear....it hangs revs at the top end before shifting and although it shifts smoother, its slower and I don't think that the hard clunk when dropping gears should be happening. It never used to do anything like that. I have found out how to adjust it via a pin....I just gotta find the damn thing

EDIT: I found a picture, but I can't seem to figure out where that is:


It will be interesting to see how the inside looks again compared to the previous time:

Hopefully still looks squeaky clean

Thanks for the location of the modulator, I'll see if I can find it. Do you think he could have increased or decreased the pressure based on the fact it "hangs" at the top of the revs before changing? As I understand it, CW is increased pressure, CCW is decreased. Correct me if I am wrong.

It will be interesting to see how the inside looks again compared to the previous time:

Hopefully still looks squeaky clean

Thanks for the location of the modulator, I'll see if I can find it. Do you think he could have increased or decreased the pressure based on the fact it "hangs" at the top of the revs before changing? As I understand it, CW is increased pressure, CCW is decreased. Correct me if I am wrong.
http://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/7...justments.html
I was just speaking to my dad and along with my current problems -- I was told that my oil pump is leaking as well when it was probed. How much more work would that be due to the fact I'm already taking out most of the engine?
http://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/7...justments.html
I was just speaking to my dad and along with my current problems -- I was told that my oil pump is leaking as well when it was probed. How much more work would that be due to the fact I'm already taking out most of the engine?
no time like the present. like you said you gonna be in there already anyways. Also be careful with the belt tensioner it is very easy to strip it out. Luckily they built it in two pieces so you can replace the part that strips out. Basically don't back the nut out to far and then try and retighten it. I found out the hard way and standed myself at my shop at 11:00 on a friday night. not fun.
I just spoke to the machine guy and he said with me supplying the valves and stem seals it will be about $220.

Just found all my performance and economy is due to my cats. I took it to a shop and he banged it and it sounded like a christmas tree

He quoted me $850 for the 2 precats and main cat...but I think thats a rip off.
What do you think about putting Magnaflow cats in place of OEM? They gotta be better due to technology and more air flow right?
I kinda leaning towards leaving the head gasket for now. I mean yes its still leaking, but the back pressure from the cat may be just making things seem worse than they really are. I will still go ahead and do the engine mounts, oil pan gasket and water pump though (maybe water pump next weekend), but mounts and oil pan for sure as I'm sick of the rough idle and stains everywhere I go.
Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 23, 2008 at 08:54 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Just found all my performance and economy is due to my cats. I took it to a shop and he banged it and it sounded like a christmas tree
He quoted me $850 for the 2 precats and main cat...but I think thats a rip off.
What do you think about putting Magnaflow cats in place of OEM? They gotta be better due to technology and more air flow right?
I kinda leaning towards leaving the head gasket for now. I mean yes its still leaking, but the back pressure from the cat may be just making things seem worse than they really are. I will still go ahead and do the engine mounts, oil pan gasket and water pump though (maybe water pump next weekend), but mounts and oil pan for sure as I'm sick of the rough idle and stains everywhere I go.
Back pressure from your cats is not causing your head gasket to leak. Your head gasket is blown most probably because the engine overheated at some point, the head warped and the gasket failed in that corner were the oil and coolant passages are so close together. It's just a bad MB design...period.
As far as the old jag mechanic, if he's done the 3.8 and 4.2 liter sixes that Jag had, the MB engine is less complex. I cut my teeth on the 4.2 liter Jag engine and it's remarkably complex, true hemi design and DOHC. ....a design basically from a race 1950's engine series! The price is right in keeping with what the old machine shop here told me as well.
As far as your cats go, I've read about replacement in most MB forums.....you can put anything in there that you want, but it will change the sound, (or lack of) and you won't likely get the longevity of a MB cat. Then there's a company called Remus which has a cat-back systems that makes the MB engines sound like they really have something (other than 'wooosh'). Everybody goes on about the quality of the MB cats, amount of platinum content etc. I'm in the same boat there as well, mine was rattling like tin cans and then stopped. I don't know why it stopped and I haven't even addressed that problem yet. With the 4matic, it's really tight in there and I can't even use the same cat system as the cars without 4matic.
I know it seems like your car needs an inordinate amount of work right now, but if it were me, I'd still make the head gasket a top priority. Then engine mounts, heater core (if leaking) and finally, the cats. Treat the rest of its ills like 'add ons'.
It says in the Bentley manual that the transmission is almost bullet proof....that the brake clutch pack and seals are about all that ever goes wrong with it. I find that pretty encouraging, although if someone was racing all the time, I'm sure it will eventually fail. Get synthetic in there, a new filter and drive it.
Do the head gasket, dude.
Kevin
Just found all my performance and economy is due to my cats. I took it to a shop and he banged it and it sounded like a christmas tree
He quoted me $850 for the 2 precats and main cat...but I think thats a rip off.
What do you think about putting Magnaflow cats in place of OEM? They gotta be better due to technology and more air flow right?
I kinda leaning towards leaving the head gasket for now. I mean yes its still leaking, but the back pressure from the cat may be just making things seem worse than they really are. I will still go ahead and do the engine mounts, oil pan gasket and water pump though (maybe water pump next weekend), but mounts and oil pan for sure as I'm sick of the rough idle and stains everywhere I go.
Back pressure from your cats is not causing your head gasket to leak. Your head gasket is blown most probably because the engine overheated at some point, the head warped and the gasket failed in that corner were the oil and coolant passages are so close together. It's just a bad MB design...period.
As far as the old jag mechanic, if he's done the 3.8 and 4.2 liter sixes that Jag had, the MB engine is less complex. I cut my teeth on the 4.2 liter Jag engine and it's remarkably complex, true hemi design and DOHC. ....a design basically from a race 1950's engine series! The price is right in keeping with what the old machine shop here told me as well.
As far as your cats go, I've read about replacement in most MB forums.....you can put anything in there that you want, but it will change the sound, (or lack of) and you won't likely get the longevity of a MB cat. Then there's a company called Remus which has a cat-back systems that makes the MB engines sound like they really have something (other than 'wooosh'). Everybody goes on about the quality of the MB cats, amount of platinum content etc. I'm in the same boat there as well, mine was rattling like tin cans and then stopped. I don't know why it stopped and I haven't even addressed that problem yet. With the 4matic, it's really tight in there and I can't even use the same cat system as the cars without 4matic.
I know it seems like your car needs an inordinate amount of work right now, but if it were me, I'd still make the head gasket a top priority. Then engine mounts, heater core (if leaking) and finally, the cats. Treat the rest of its ills like 'add ons'.
It says in the Bentley manual that the transmission is almost bullet proof....that the brake clutch pack and seals are about all that ever goes wrong with it. I find that pretty encouraging, although if someone was racing all the time, I'm sure it will eventually fail. Get synthetic in there, a new filter and drive it.
Do the head gasket, dude.
Kevin
Swap out those Cats and you might solve some of the misfire or at least help it to lessen but my guess is that you will retain some of it. Can't hurt to put of the top-ender for a while though and see the result. Also I just found out that My throttle accuator is bad and causing all kinds of issue with my idle and "misfiring" does yours have this part (000 141 5725 on mine) and have you checked it out? I had a tech tell me that it is right up there with the Wire harness for causing this issue. Just a thought.
Swap out those Cats and you might solve some of the misfire or at least help it to lessen but my guess is that you will retain some of it. Can't hurt to put of the top-ender for a while though and see the result. Also I just found out that My throttle accuator is bad and causing all kinds of issue with my idle and "misfiring" does yours have this part (000 141 5725 on mine) and have you checked it out? I had a tech tell me that it is right up there with the Wire harness for causing this issue. Just a thought.
I'm not going to go back through this whole thread to find out if his head gasket is leaking, when he can just say "yes" or "no".
And the only way that anyone can tell if the MB head gasket is leaking internally is to get a block tester from like NAPA (#BK.700-1006) and test the coolant for oil. The head gasket almost always leaks into the coolant, or out the side/corner of the head down the engine. I originally did the leakdown test and the compression test and by that measure, everything was fine. It's not until you heat up the engine and let normal operating pressures ensue that the leak is even detectable into the coolant. Furthermore, if he's done a block test and finds no oil in the coolant, he'd be crazy to replace the head gasket....unless he has one of the rare instances where his coolant is leaking into the oil-that should be visible on the dipstick, or better yet, he can send an oil sample off to the lab. As you said, there are a lot of other things that can cause irregular or inconsistent idle. This isn't voodoo or something, the head gasket can be tested for leaking.
Kevin
I couldn't notice any difference in power....MPG-wise we will tell in the next few weeks.
Any chance I may need to adjust the mixture or reset the computer?
Swap out those Cats and you might solve some of the misfire or at least help it to lessen but my guess is that you will retain some of it. Can't hurt to put of the top-ender for a while though and see the result. Also I just found out that My throttle accuator is bad and causing all kinds of issue with my idle and "misfiring" does yours have this part (000 141 5725 on mine) and have you checked it out? I had a tech tell me that it is right up there with the Wire harness for causing this issue. Just a thought.
I'm not going to go back through this whole thread to find out if his head gasket is leaking, when he can just say "yes" or "no".
And the only way that anyone can tell if the MB head gasket is leaking internally is to get a block tester from like NAPA (#BK.700-1006) and test the coolant for oil. The head gasket almost always leaks into the coolant, or out the side/corner of the head down the engine. I originally did the leakdown test and the compression test and by that measure, everything was fine. It's not until you heat up the engine and let normal operating pressures ensue that the leak is even detectable into the coolant. Furthermore, if he's done a block test and finds no oil in the coolant, he'd be crazy to replace the head gasket....unless he has one of the rare instances where his coolant is leaking into the oil-that should be visible on the dipstick, or better yet, he can send an oil sample off to the lab. As you said, there are a lot of other things that can cause irregular or inconsistent idle. This isn't voodoo or something, the head gasket can be tested for leaking.
Kevin
Is it really necessary or any way around this?
Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 25, 2008 at 04:30 PM.
Mounts cleared up some -- but not all of the shaking. So I indeed MUST have a misfire now if I have ruled off the mounts.
Got some great pics from underneath. Will post later.
Updated:
Parts replaced/steps done so far
* OVP
* Coolant Temperature Sensor
* Voltage Regulator
* Injector's+Seals
* New Fuses
* Non-Resistor OEM Bosch H9DCO's
* New Bosch Ignition Wires
* Distributor+Cap
* Fuel Filter
* Valve Stem Seals
* Breather Hoses
* Fuel Distributor
* Ignition Coil
* Fuel Pressure Regulator
* O2 Sensor
* EHA Valve
* Vacuum Tested via Smoke.
* Engine Mounts
* Catalytic Converter
* Oil Pan Gasket
* Thermostat
Man....This thing just never ends

EDIT2:
Here's a shot from underneath: Still looking great
Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 25, 2008 at 11:16 PM.
Mounts cleared up some -- but not all of the shaking. So I indeed MUST have a misfire now if I have ruled off the mounts.
Got some great pics from underneath. Will post later.
Updated:
Parts replaced/steps done so far
* OVP
* Coolant Temperature Sensor
* Voltage Regulator
* Injector's+Seals
* New Fuses
* Non-Resistor OEM Bosch H9DCO's
* New Bosch Ignition Wires
* Distributor+Cap
* Fuel Filter
* Valve Stem Seals
* Breather Hoses
* Fuel Distributor
* Ignition Coil
* Fuel Pressure Regulator
* O2 Sensor
* EHA Valve
* Vacuum Tested via Smoke.
* Engine Mounts
* Catalytic Converter
* Oil Pan Gasket
* Thermostat
Man....This thing just never ends

EDIT2:
Here's a shot from underneath: Still looking great

Agreed, as I said originally, I think he should do the entire head, ala complete three-angle valve job, re-machined surface, testing and head gasket. He's pretty much ignoring me and what I'm saying/suggesting for whatever reason, so you guys can finish the thread and I'll go elsewhere.
Kevin
Agreed, as I said originally, I think he should do the entire head, ala complete three-angle valve job, re-machined surface, testing and head gasket. He's pretty much ignoring me and what I'm saying/suggesting for whatever reason, so you guys can finish the thread and I'll go elsewhere.
Kevin
I still intend to do the head, but right now I just spent alot of money for all the parts + the new cat that I need some time to let things cool off again before I go taking her apart.
I need to run that leakdown test again, but this time try it wet. We heard hissing between the 1st and 2nd cylinders, so by running the wet leakdown, we may be able to figure out whats going on there. I only did a dry test before.
Did find out I need a new steering damper though! My one was leaking when we pushed it together. Just another cost

Really?
Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 27, 2008 at 01:44 AM.
Agreed, as I said originally, I think he should do the entire head, ala complete three-angle valve job, re-machined surface, testing and head gasket. He's pretty much ignoring me and what I'm saying/suggesting for whatever reason, so you guys can finish the thread and I'll go elsewhere.
Kevin
It would best if you did go back and read through the entire thread before you posted a bunch of suggestions or concluded that he is doing something that he doesn't know about. This thread is epic at this point and full of suggestions, ideas and ruling things out. The only way to understand exactly where he is at in this whole thing is to read about it and follow the trail that leads to the point we are now. Coming in mid stream and throwing in your 2 cents would be like me walking into the World Series in the 8th inning of a blow out and saying what happened without actually seeing it. I want to get my background info first so I don’t look foolish. I don't recall one time in this thread where he has discounted any advise or input but considered everything any one had to offer even more so as the frustration of a year long hunt to solve the problem mounts. Plus in a selfish sadistic way some of us are learning so much from this thread we will be a little sad when it is closed, if you don't what to stick around for it by all means don't look at it anymore. That's your choice.
Also most of the guys around here love a newbie coming on board as long as it is done with some class and understanding that it takes time for folks to get to know you through your posts and if you come in guns blazing some people might not respond well to that. Not that you are going to get bad mouthed (unless you start bragging about drinking or getting high and driving
) but folks might not take you as seriously even if you have great input. Understand I am not trying to put you down here just help you understand the culture of this thread and forum (as I see it) a bit better. Thanks
Gary
I pay attention to every response. I am trying to the best of my abilities (or lack thereof) to get this resolved. It would be pure ignorance not to listen to every response.
I am working my way back through everything as the mounts were a big hit among many people everywhere that I posted so I can conclude fully that I DO have a misfire -- its not just vibrations.
Believe it sees a peak of 1.5V at starting and rises with increasing speed.
M103-12V will not start if the EZL ignition control unit doesn't receive a signal from the position sensor.
You can do a static test by pulling the position pickup plug off the EZL unit and measuring resistance between terminals 31d ( outer core ) and 7 ( center pin. )
Should read 680-1200 ohms, if not it needs to be replaced.
Usually a go or no go situation on the M103-12V....if you start and run, then most times the sensor is fine.
I can rule off any vacuum related problems as I had it smoked....About to do a wet test.
EDIT: No difference in idle quality.
I still have plans to do the head gasket because its all in good measure. I'll probably do it some time around Thanksgiving.
I am losing transmission fluid via a hole near the Torque Convertor...I'm assuming there is a seal somewhere there that is leaking. Sounds like a big job to fix. I have to top it off every 6-8 months and my indicator is when my transmission slips for the first time, so I just fill it up the next day. Maybe I'll just leave it for the hassle?
Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 28, 2008 at 01:46 AM.
It would best if you did go back and read through the entire thread before you posted a bunch of suggestions or concluded that he is doing something that he doesn't know about. This thread is epic at this point and full of suggestions, ideas and ruling things out. The only way to understand exactly where he is at in this whole thing is to read about it and follow the trail that leads to the point we are now. Coming in mid stream and throwing in your 2 cents would be like me walking into the World Series in the 8th inning of a blow out and saying what happened without actually seeing it. I want to get my background info first so I don’t look foolish. I don't recall one time in this thread where he has discounted any advise or input but considered everything any one had to offer even more so as the frustration of a year long hunt to solve the problem mounts. Plus in a selfish sadistic way some of us are learning so much from this thread we will be a little sad when it is closed, if you don't what to stick around for it by all means don't look at it anymore. That's your choice.
Also most of the guys around here love a newbie coming on board as long as it is done with some class and understanding that it takes time for folks to get to know you through your posts and if you come in guns blazing some people might not respond well to that. Not that you are going to get bad mouthed (unless you start bragging about drinking or getting high and driving
) but folks might not take you as seriously even if you have great input. Understand I am not trying to put you down here just help you understand the culture of this thread and forum (as I see it) a bit better. Thanks
Gary
And further, I really don't need a treatise on newbie versus sourdough and no, I don't take offense. Having done a least a hundred headgaskets and being a journeyman mechanic in my youth (but not on cars), I really don't have to bow to anyone. I am however, trying to learn the nuances of the particular MB that I own, which is similar to the OP (hence the interest). It is the OP's right to pick and choose who he replies to and what advice to follow, for sure. If you think that perhaps I'm coming in here 'guns-ablazing', then you need to rethink your accusation. I can just as easily not post and let the young lions tell all as they see it. It's a pretty sad state of affairs if you're basing the the credibility of a poster's advice by the number of posts he makes on an Internet forum, however.
Kevin
I pay attention to every response. I am trying to the best of my abilities (or lack thereof) to get this resolved. It would be pure ignorance not to listen to every response.
I am working my way back through everything as the mounts were a big hit among many people everywhere that I posted so I can conclude fully that I DO have a misfire -- its not just vibrations.
Checked that right now and I'm getting 838 ohms. I can assume its fine then right?
I can rule off any vacuum related problems as I had it smoked....About to do a wet test.
EDIT: No difference in idle quality.
I still have plans to do the head gasket because its all in good measure. I'll probably do it some time around Thanksgiving.
I am losing transmission fluid via a hole near the Torque Convertor...I'm assuming there is a seal somewhere there that is leaking. Sounds like a big job to fix. I have to top it off every 6-8 months and my indicator is when my transmission slips for the first time, so I just fill it up the next day. Maybe I'll just leave it for the hassle?
Your lucky with the trans. Mine is taking almost a quart a week.


