E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

1988 300TE - Misfires - Part #2

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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 10:56 AM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by GEDaggett
Sound good. If he said a week then it would be likely he sends it out but 2-3 is normal. Thought of something else you might need. Go and get a large rubber mallet (if you don't already have one). When you take all the head bolts out you may have to knock the head a couple of times on the corner to break it loose and a rubber mallet will do the job nicely with no damage to the head. Also if you are going to be getting any rain in your area while you have the head cracked off the engine take a some suran wrap and place it over top the engine pressing it down for a seal then you won't get any surface currosion in the cyinder walls. You can also just wipe them down with oil on a clean shop rag and that will help aswell. Depending on where you live currosion can start on the surfaces of unprtected metal very quickly.
Socal....so I shouldn't have any problems

I have all the basic tools like that in my garage, but thanks for the tips. I really appreciate all your help. Let's hope by the end of next week I can say SOLVED and move onto the smaller things.

Oh that reminds me -- think accessing the transmission modulator would be easier while I do this? I took the car to a mechanic and he said it was shifting hard and so he "adjusted it"....but its just horrible. Going uphill it has a massive hard clunk dropping gear....it hangs revs at the top end before shifting and although it shifts smoother, its slower and I don't think that the hard clunk when dropping gears should be happening. It never used to do anything like that. I have found out how to adjust it via a pin....I just gotta find the damn thing

EDIT: I found a picture, but I can't seem to figure out where that is:

Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 22, 2008 at 11:13 AM.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #227  
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by ps2cho
Socal....so I shouldn't have any problems

I have all the basic tools like that in my garage, but thanks for the tips. I really appreciate all your help. Let's hope by the end of next week I can say SOLVED and move onto the smaller things.

Oh that reminds me -- think accessing the transmission modulator would be easier while I do this? I took the car to a mechanic and he said it was shifting hard and so he "adjusted it"....but its just horrible. Going uphill it has a massive hard clunk dropping gear....it hangs revs at the top end before shifting and although it shifts smoother, its slower and I don't think that the hard clunk when dropping gears should be happening. It never used to do anything like that. I have found out how to adjust it via a pin....I just gotta find the damn thing

EDIT: I found a picture, but I can't seem to figure out where that is:
You can reach that modulator easily anytime. Just get under your car from the driverside and it sits between the shift cable and the front of the tranny. It has a little cap you pop off and then you can adjust. It really is easy to find. Search the threads for Trans Modulator casue someone has a pic posted on here somewhere. But I agree do-it yourself better if you are able. I will be joining you in the Headgasket endevor inthe next month as mine is leaking anough oil to effect the price of Crude. I am going to try (emphasis on try) to document with Pics. have fun busting into yours and I look forward to hearing the results.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 05:12 PM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by GEDaggett
You can reach that modulator easily anytime. Just get under your car from the driverside and it sits between the shift cable and the front of the tranny. It has a little cap you pop off and then you can adjust. It really is easy to find. Search the threads for Trans Modulator casue someone has a pic posted on here somewhere. But I agree do-it yourself better if you are able. I will be joining you in the Headgasket endevor inthe next month as mine is leaking anough oil to effect the price of Crude. I am going to try (emphasis on try) to document with Pics. have fun busting into yours and I look forward to hearing the results.
I'll have pics to show

It will be interesting to see how the inside looks again compared to the previous time:



Hopefully still looks squeaky clean

Thanks for the location of the modulator, I'll see if I can find it. Do you think he could have increased or decreased the pressure based on the fact it "hangs" at the top of the revs before changing? As I understand it, CW is increased pressure, CCW is decreased. Correct me if I am wrong.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 05:18 PM
  #229  
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by ps2cho
I'll have pics to show

It will be interesting to see how the inside looks again compared to the previous time:



Hopefully still looks squeaky clean

Thanks for the location of the modulator, I'll see if I can find it. Do you think he could have increased or decreased the pressure based on the fact it "hangs" at the top of the revs before changing? As I understand it, CW is increased pressure, CCW is decreased. Correct me if I am wrong.
I can't remember which way is which. I do know that there are two versions of that Modulator 1 has more adjustment than the other
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 05:26 PM
  #230  
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Yes looks like it is the way I thought.

http://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/7...justments.html

I was just speaking to my dad and along with my current problems -- I was told that my oil pump is leaking as well when it was probed. How much more work would that be due to the fact I'm already taking out most of the engine?
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 05:57 PM
  #231  
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by ps2cho
Yes looks like it is the way I thought.

http://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/7...justments.html

I was just speaking to my dad and along with my current problems -- I was told that my oil pump is leaking as well when it was probed. How much more work would that be due to the fact I'm already taking out most of the engine?

no time like the present. like you said you gonna be in there already anyways. Also be careful with the belt tensioner it is very easy to strip it out. Luckily they built it in two pieces so you can replace the part that strips out. Basically don't back the nut out to far and then try and retighten it. I found out the hard way and standed myself at my shop at 11:00 on a friday night. not fun.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 06:21 PM
  #232  
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You're right....I really should....just seems like it keeps adding up ya know LOL! Looks like the pump is a little under $200....

I just spoke to the machine guy and he said with me supplying the valves and stem seals it will be about $220.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 08:47 PM
  #233  
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I have some good news

Just found all my performance and economy is due to my cats. I took it to a shop and he banged it and it sounded like a christmas tree
He quoted me $850 for the 2 precats and main cat...but I think thats a rip off.

What do you think about putting Magnaflow cats in place of OEM? They gotta be better due to technology and more air flow right?

I kinda leaning towards leaving the head gasket for now. I mean yes its still leaking, but the back pressure from the cat may be just making things seem worse than they really are. I will still go ahead and do the engine mounts, oil pan gasket and water pump though (maybe water pump next weekend), but mounts and oil pan for sure as I'm sick of the rough idle and stains everywhere I go.

Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 23, 2008 at 08:54 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 11:51 PM
  #234  
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1992 300TE 4matic wagon
I have some good news

Just found all my performance and economy is due to my cats. I took it to a shop and he banged it and it sounded like a christmas tree
He quoted me $850 for the 2 precats and main cat...but I think thats a rip off.

What do you think about putting Magnaflow cats in place of OEM? They gotta be better due to technology and more air flow right?

I kinda leaning towards leaving the head gasket for now. I mean yes its still leaking, but the back pressure from the cat may be just making things seem worse than they really are. I will still go ahead and do the engine mounts, oil pan gasket and water pump though (maybe water pump next weekend), but mounts and oil pan for sure as I'm sick of the rough idle and stains everywhere I go.


Back pressure from your cats is not causing your head gasket to leak. Your head gasket is blown most probably because the engine overheated at some point, the head warped and the gasket failed in that corner were the oil and coolant passages are so close together. It's just a bad MB design...period.

As far as the old jag mechanic, if he's done the 3.8 and 4.2 liter sixes that Jag had, the MB engine is less complex. I cut my teeth on the 4.2 liter Jag engine and it's remarkably complex, true hemi design and DOHC. ....a design basically from a race 1950's engine series! The price is right in keeping with what the old machine shop here told me as well.

As far as your cats go, I've read about replacement in most MB forums.....you can put anything in there that you want, but it will change the sound, (or lack of) and you won't likely get the longevity of a MB cat. Then there's a company called Remus which has a cat-back systems that makes the MB engines sound like they really have something (other than 'wooosh'). Everybody goes on about the quality of the MB cats, amount of platinum content etc. I'm in the same boat there as well, mine was rattling like tin cans and then stopped. I don't know why it stopped and I haven't even addressed that problem yet. With the 4matic, it's really tight in there and I can't even use the same cat system as the cars without 4matic.

I know it seems like your car needs an inordinate amount of work right now, but if it were me, I'd still make the head gasket a top priority. Then engine mounts, heater core (if leaking) and finally, the cats. Treat the rest of its ills like 'add ons'.

It says in the Bentley manual that the transmission is almost bullet proof....that the brake clutch pack and seals are about all that ever goes wrong with it. I find that pretty encouraging, although if someone was racing all the time, I'm sure it will eventually fail. Get synthetic in there, a new filter and drive it.

Do the head gasket, dude.

Kevin
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:41 AM
  #235  
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by Real1shepherd
I have some good news

Just found all my performance and economy is due to my cats. I took it to a shop and he banged it and it sounded like a christmas tree
He quoted me $850 for the 2 precats and main cat...but I think thats a rip off.

What do you think about putting Magnaflow cats in place of OEM? They gotta be better due to technology and more air flow right?

I kinda leaning towards leaving the head gasket for now. I mean yes its still leaking, but the back pressure from the cat may be just making things seem worse than they really are. I will still go ahead and do the engine mounts, oil pan gasket and water pump though (maybe water pump next weekend), but mounts and oil pan for sure as I'm sick of the rough idle and stains everywhere I go.


Back pressure from your cats is not causing your head gasket to leak. Your head gasket is blown most probably because the engine overheated at some point, the head warped and the gasket failed in that corner were the oil and coolant passages are so close together. It's just a bad MB design...period.

As far as the old jag mechanic, if he's done the 3.8 and 4.2 liter sixes that Jag had, the MB engine is less complex. I cut my teeth on the 4.2 liter Jag engine and it's remarkably complex, true hemi design and DOHC. ....a design basically from a race 1950's engine series! The price is right in keeping with what the old machine shop here told me as well.

As far as your cats go, I've read about replacement in most MB forums.....you can put anything in there that you want, but it will change the sound, (or lack of) and you won't likely get the longevity of a MB cat. Then there's a company called Remus which has a cat-back systems that makes the MB engines sound like they really have something (other than 'wooosh'). Everybody goes on about the quality of the MB cats, amount of platinum content etc. I'm in the same boat there as well, mine was rattling like tin cans and then stopped. I don't know why it stopped and I haven't even addressed that problem yet. With the 4matic, it's really tight in there and I can't even use the same cat system as the cars without 4matic.

I know it seems like your car needs an inordinate amount of work right now, but if it were me, I'd still make the head gasket a top priority. Then engine mounts, heater core (if leaking) and finally, the cats. Treat the rest of its ills like 'add ons'.

It says in the Bentley manual that the transmission is almost bullet proof....that the brake clutch pack and seals are about all that ever goes wrong with it. I find that pretty encouraging, although if someone was racing all the time, I'm sure it will eventually fail. Get synthetic in there, a new filter and drive it.

Do the head gasket, dude.

Kevin
just a note. the headgasket/head is the next step in a long line of replacment adn repairs. The head gasket is not confirmed to be bad and to my knowledge (correct me if I am wrong) not leaking. There is an issue that he has been chasing for more than a year now and the head is the next mostlikley scenerio plus with the miles on his car a good idea.

Swap out those Cats and you might solve some of the misfire or at least help it to lessen but my guess is that you will retain some of it. Can't hurt to put of the top-ender for a while though and see the result. Also I just found out that My throttle accuator is bad and causing all kinds of issue with my idle and "misfiring" does yours have this part (000 141 5725 on mine) and have you checked it out? I had a tech tell me that it is right up there with the Wire harness for causing this issue. Just a thought.
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 11:13 PM
  #236  
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1992 300TE 4matic wagon
just a note. the headgasket/head is the next step in a long line of replacment adn repairs. The head gasket is not confirmed to be bad and to my knowledge (correct me if I am wrong) not leaking. There is an issue that he has been chasing for more than a year now and the head is the next mostlikley scenerio plus with the miles on his car a good idea.

Swap out those Cats and you might solve some of the misfire or at least help it to lessen but my guess is that you will retain some of it. Can't hurt to put of the top-ender for a while though and see the result. Also I just found out that My throttle accuator is bad and causing all kinds of issue with my idle and "misfiring" does yours have this part (000 141 5725 on mine) and have you checked it out? I had a tech tell me that it is right up there with the Wire harness for causing this issue. Just a thought.


I'm not going to go back through this whole thread to find out if his head gasket is leaking, when he can just say "yes" or "no". And the only way that anyone can tell if the MB head gasket is leaking internally is to get a block tester from like NAPA (#BK.700-1006) and test the coolant for oil. The head gasket almost always leaks into the coolant, or out the side/corner of the head down the engine. I originally did the leakdown test and the compression test and by that measure, everything was fine. It's not until you heat up the engine and let normal operating pressures ensue that the leak is even detectable into the coolant.

Furthermore, if he's done a block test and finds no oil in the coolant, he'd be crazy to replace the head gasket....unless he has one of the rare instances where his coolant is leaking into the oil-that should be visible on the dipstick, or better yet, he can send an oil sample off to the lab. As you said, there are a lot of other things that can cause irregular or inconsistent idle. This isn't voodoo or something, the head gasket can be tested for leaking.

Kevin
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 03:38 AM
  #237  
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I had the cat swapped today and the guy showed me the inside of the precats and they were TRASHED!! He was even surprised at the condition of them and was concerned about how it could have occurred. I explained the issues of the bad valve stem seals that hadn't been fixed by the previous owners for quite a number of years....

I couldn't notice any difference in power....MPG-wise we will tell in the next few weeks.

Any chance I may need to adjust the mixture or reset the computer?
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 07:02 AM
  #238  
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by Real1shepherd
just a note. the headgasket/head is the next step in a long line of replacment adn repairs. The head gasket is not confirmed to be bad and to my knowledge (correct me if I am wrong) not leaking. There is an issue that he has been chasing for more than a year now and the head is the next mostlikley scenerio plus with the miles on his car a good idea.

Swap out those Cats and you might solve some of the misfire or at least help it to lessen but my guess is that you will retain some of it. Can't hurt to put of the top-ender for a while though and see the result. Also I just found out that My throttle accuator is bad and causing all kinds of issue with my idle and "misfiring" does yours have this part (000 141 5725 on mine) and have you checked it out? I had a tech tell me that it is right up there with the Wire harness for causing this issue. Just a thought.


I'm not going to go back through this whole thread to find out if his head gasket is leaking, when he can just say "yes" or "no". And the only way that anyone can tell if the MB head gasket is leaking internally is to get a block tester from like NAPA (#BK.700-1006) and test the coolant for oil. The head gasket almost always leaks into the coolant, or out the side/corner of the head down the engine. I originally did the leakdown test and the compression test and by that measure, everything was fine. It's not until you heat up the engine and let normal operating pressures ensue that the leak is even detectable into the coolant.

Furthermore, if he's done a block test and finds no oil in the coolant, he'd be crazy to replace the head gasket....unless he has one of the rare instances where his coolant is leaking into the oil-that should be visible on the dipstick, or better yet, he can send an oil sample off to the lab. As you said, there are a lot of other things that can cause irregular or inconsistent idle. This isn't voodoo or something, the head gasket can be tested for leaking.

Kevin
It is more a question of the head than the gasket. The thinking is that something internally on the head may be causing the issues. There is diagnostics that can be done to figure out if the lifters, valve and springs are in good shape but with him desiring to keep the car for a very long time it will be an overhaul that will have benefit and at least will check another item off the list of possible cause to the issues and/or future time bombs. I am very familiar with the head gasket leaking as mine is pumping out the side like a gulf coast oil rig. Most always when the gasket is bad it will let you know in no uncertain terms.
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 04:25 PM
  #239  
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Mounts are off and the sump is unbolted....but it looks like we may need to use an engine hoist to raise it high enough to pull out.... We have the engine up against the bulkhead....

Is it really necessary or any way around this?

Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 25, 2008 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 10:27 PM
  #240  
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Got it eventually.

Mounts cleared up some -- but not all of the shaking. So I indeed MUST have a misfire now if I have ruled off the mounts.

Got some great pics from underneath. Will post later.

Updated:

Parts replaced/steps done so far

* OVP
* Coolant Temperature Sensor
* Voltage Regulator
* Injector's+Seals
* New Fuses
* Non-Resistor OEM Bosch H9DCO's
* New Bosch Ignition Wires
* Distributor+Cap
* Fuel Filter
* Valve Stem Seals
* Breather Hoses
* Fuel Distributor
* Ignition Coil
* Fuel Pressure Regulator
* O2 Sensor
* EHA Valve
* Vacuum Tested via Smoke.
* Engine Mounts
* Catalytic Converter
* Oil Pan Gasket
* Thermostat

Man....This thing just never ends

EDIT2:

Here's a shot from underneath: Still looking great

Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 25, 2008 at 11:16 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 10:47 AM
  #241  
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by ps2cho
Got it eventually.

Mounts cleared up some -- but not all of the shaking. So I indeed MUST have a misfire now if I have ruled off the mounts.

Got some great pics from underneath. Will post later.

Updated:

Parts replaced/steps done so far

* OVP
* Coolant Temperature Sensor
* Voltage Regulator
* Injector's+Seals
* New Fuses
* Non-Resistor OEM Bosch H9DCO's
* New Bosch Ignition Wires
* Distributor+Cap
* Fuel Filter
* Valve Stem Seals
* Breather Hoses
* Fuel Distributor
* Ignition Coil
* Fuel Pressure Regulator
* O2 Sensor
* EHA Valve
* Vacuum Tested via Smoke.
* Engine Mounts
* Catalytic Converter
* Oil Pan Gasket
* Thermostat

Man....This thing just never ends

EDIT2:

Here's a shot from underneath: Still looking great
Those are some funky looking bolt heads on the mains.
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #242  
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1992 300TE 4matic wagon
It is more a question of the head than the gasket. The thinking is that something internally on the head may be causing the issues. There is diagnostics that can be done to figure out if the lifters, valve and springs are in good shape but with him desiring to keep the car for a very long time it will be an overhaul that will have benefit and at least will check another item off the list of possible cause to the issues and/or future time bombs. I am very familiar with the head gasket leaking as mine is pumping out the side like a gulf coast oil rig. Most always when the gasket is bad it will let you know in no uncertain terms.

Agreed, as I said originally, I think he should do the entire head, ala complete three-angle valve job, re-machined surface, testing and head gasket. He's pretty much ignoring me and what I'm saying/suggesting for whatever reason, so you guys can finish the thread and I'll go elsewhere.

Kevin
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Old Oct 27, 2008 | 01:24 AM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by Real1shepherd
It is more a question of the head than the gasket. The thinking is that something internally on the head may be causing the issues. There is diagnostics that can be done to figure out if the lifters, valve and springs are in good shape but with him desiring to keep the car for a very long time it will be an overhaul that will have benefit and at least will check another item off the list of possible cause to the issues and/or future time bombs. I am very familiar with the head gasket leaking as mine is pumping out the side like a gulf coast oil rig. Most always when the gasket is bad it will let you know in no uncertain terms.

Agreed, as I said originally, I think he should do the entire head, ala complete three-angle valve job, re-machined surface, testing and head gasket. He's pretty much ignoring me and what I'm saying/suggesting for whatever reason, so you guys can finish the thread and I'll go elsewhere.

Kevin
I'm not ignoring your suggestions...You see after a look under the engine, we are not sure if it really is a head gasket leak. The leaks are coming elsewhere, so we need to go under again and determine exactly where the leaks are coming from. The mechanic I took it to told me it was the head gasket -- but not we are not too sure.

I still intend to do the head, but right now I just spent alot of money for all the parts + the new cat that I need some time to let things cool off again before I go taking her apart.

I need to run that leakdown test again, but this time try it wet. We heard hissing between the 1st and 2nd cylinders, so by running the wet leakdown, we may be able to figure out whats going on there. I only did a dry test before.

Did find out I need a new steering damper though! My one was leaking when we pushed it together. Just another cost

Originally Posted by GEDaggett
Those are some funky looking bolt heads on the mains.
Really?

Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 27, 2008 at 01:44 AM.
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Old Oct 27, 2008 | 06:47 AM
  #244  
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From: Huntsville, AL
2005 E320 CDI
The bolt heads are standard 12pt bolts. No problem using standard 12 pt sockets to remove. The look funny if you have never seen them before but are quite common.
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Old Oct 27, 2008 | 08:25 AM
  #245  
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by fred1948
The bolt heads are standard 12pt bolts. No problem using standard 12 pt sockets to remove. The look funny if you have never seen them before but are quite common.
I guess I have worked on to many cheap american cars as I didn't recall ever seeing that bolt head before. Learn something everyday.
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Old Oct 27, 2008 | 08:41 AM
  #246  
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by Real1shepherd
It is more a question of the head than the gasket. The thinking is that something internally on the head may be causing the issues. There is diagnostics that can be done to figure out if the lifters, valve and springs are in good shape but with him desiring to keep the car for a very long time it will be an overhaul that will have benefit and at least will check another item off the list of possible cause to the issues and/or future time bombs. I am very familiar with the head gasket leaking as mine is pumping out the side like a gulf coast oil rig. Most always when the gasket is bad it will let you know in no uncertain terms.

Agreed, as I said originally, I think he should do the entire head, ala complete three-angle valve job, re-machined surface, testing and head gasket. He's pretty much ignoring me and what I'm saying/suggesting for whatever reason, so you guys can finish the thread and I'll go elsewhere.

Kevin
I'm not going to go back through this whole thread to find out if his head gasket is leaking, when he can just say "yes" or "no".

It would best if you did go back and read through the entire thread before you posted a bunch of suggestions or concluded that he is doing something that he doesn't know about. This thread is epic at this point and full of suggestions, ideas and ruling things out. The only way to understand exactly where he is at in this whole thing is to read about it and follow the trail that leads to the point we are now. Coming in mid stream and throwing in your 2 cents would be like me walking into the World Series in the 8th inning of a blow out and saying what happened without actually seeing it. I want to get my background info first so I don’t look foolish. I don't recall one time in this thread where he has discounted any advise or input but considered everything any one had to offer even more so as the frustration of a year long hunt to solve the problem mounts. Plus in a selfish sadistic way some of us are learning so much from this thread we will be a little sad when it is closed, if you don't what to stick around for it by all means don't look at it anymore. That's your choice.

Also most of the guys around here love a newbie coming on board as long as it is done with some class and understanding that it takes time for folks to get to know you through your posts and if you come in guns blazing some people might not respond well to that. Not that you are going to get bad mouthed (unless you start bragging about drinking or getting high and driving) but folks might not take you as seriously even if you have great input. Understand I am not trying to put you down here just help you understand the culture of this thread and forum (as I see it) a bit better.

Thanks

Gary
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Old Oct 27, 2008 | 01:36 PM
  #247  
ps2cho's Avatar
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,381
Likes: 29
E
Thanks GE.

I pay attention to every response. I am trying to the best of my abilities (or lack thereof) to get this resolved. It would be pure ignorance not to listen to every response.

I am working my way back through everything as the mounts were a big hit among many people everywhere that I posted so I can conclude fully that I DO have a misfire -- its not just vibrations.

Originally Posted by RBYCC
You need an oscilliscope to check the CPS on the M103-12V as it staggered by 120 degrees as the driven plate ring gear turns.
Believe it sees a peak of 1.5V at starting and rises with increasing speed.
M103-12V will not start if the EZL ignition control unit doesn't receive a signal from the position sensor.

You can do a static test by pulling the position pickup plug off the EZL unit and measuring resistance between terminals 31d ( outer core ) and 7 ( center pin. )
Should read 680-1200 ohms, if not it needs to be replaced.
Usually a go or no go situation on the M103-12V....if you start and run, then most times the sensor is fine.
Checked that right now and I'm getting 838 ohms. I can assume its fine then right?

I can rule off any vacuum related problems as I had it smoked....About to do a wet test.

EDIT: No difference in idle quality.

I still have plans to do the head gasket because its all in good measure. I'll probably do it some time around Thanksgiving.

I am losing transmission fluid via a hole near the Torque Convertor...I'm assuming there is a seal somewhere there that is leaking. Sounds like a big job to fix. I have to top it off every 6-8 months and my indicator is when my transmission slips for the first time, so I just fill it up the next day. Maybe I'll just leave it for the hassle?

Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 28, 2008 at 01:46 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:07 AM
  #248  
Real1shepherd's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
1992 300TE 4matic wagon
Originally Posted by GEDaggett
I'm not going to go back through this whole thread to find out if his head gasket is leaking, when he can just say "yes" or "no".

It would best if you did go back and read through the entire thread before you posted a bunch of suggestions or concluded that he is doing something that he doesn't know about. This thread is epic at this point and full of suggestions, ideas and ruling things out. The only way to understand exactly where he is at in this whole thing is to read about it and follow the trail that leads to the point we are now. Coming in mid stream and throwing in your 2 cents would be like me walking into the World Series in the 8th inning of a blow out and saying what happened without actually seeing it. I want to get my background info first so I don’t look foolish. I don't recall one time in this thread where he has discounted any advise or input but considered everything any one had to offer even more so as the frustration of a year long hunt to solve the problem mounts. Plus in a selfish sadistic way some of us are learning so much from this thread we will be a little sad when it is closed, if you don't what to stick around for it by all means don't look at it anymore. That's your choice.

Also most of the guys around here love a newbie coming on board as long as it is done with some class and understanding that it takes time for folks to get to know you through your posts and if you come in guns blazing some people might not respond well to that. Not that you are going to get bad mouthed (unless you start bragging about drinking or getting high and driving) but folks might not take you as seriously even if you have great input. Understand I am not trying to put you down here just help you understand the culture of this thread and forum (as I see it) a bit better.

Thanks

Gary
For one thing, I gave a long list of items and ideas for prep. You chimed in with a few more and he thanked you. No big deal and probably just a logic 'break' or whatever. He answered my leaking headgasket question quite adequately and without having to read through the entire thread. If you bothered to notice, I wasn't giving advice on his idle/misfire issue, just the headgasket problem with regard to leaking. I'm also right in there with having his head done for the obvious reason that if it comes off, it should be done.

And further, I really don't need a treatise on newbie versus sourdough and no, I don't take offense. Having done a least a hundred headgaskets and being a journeyman mechanic in my youth (but not on cars), I really don't have to bow to anyone. I am however, trying to learn the nuances of the particular MB that I own, which is similar to the OP (hence the interest). It is the OP's right to pick and choose who he replies to and what advice to follow, for sure. If you think that perhaps I'm coming in here 'guns-ablazing', then you need to rethink your accusation. I can just as easily not post and let the young lions tell all as they see it. It's a pretty sad state of affairs if you're basing the the credibility of a poster's advice by the number of posts he makes on an Internet forum, however.

Kevin
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 06:34 AM
  #249  
epowers777's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
From: Forethill, Ca Northcal
85 euro w124 300d non turbo black on black......coming soon hx35 turbo intercooler
Wow you guys are awesome. I am haveing the exact same problem with my misfire/ruff idle. Its annoying and I want it fixed. Im going to work on the benz tomorrow and will let you know anything. I get about 26 mpg and I have no signs of leaks any ware on the engine. Im convinced its my injectors though. My plugs arent fouling but when I put it in drive it gets rougher. Well laptop battery is almost dead so good night and will see you tomorrow.
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 09:33 PM
  #250  
GEDaggett's Avatar
Super Member
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by ps2cho
Thanks GE.

I pay attention to every response. I am trying to the best of my abilities (or lack thereof) to get this resolved. It would be pure ignorance not to listen to every response.

I am working my way back through everything as the mounts were a big hit among many people everywhere that I posted so I can conclude fully that I DO have a misfire -- its not just vibrations.



Checked that right now and I'm getting 838 ohms. I can assume its fine then right?

I can rule off any vacuum related problems as I had it smoked....About to do a wet test.

EDIT: No difference in idle quality.

I still have plans to do the head gasket because its all in good measure. I'll probably do it some time around Thanksgiving.

I am losing transmission fluid via a hole near the Torque Convertor...I'm assuming there is a seal somewhere there that is leaking. Sounds like a big job to fix. I have to top it off every 6-8 months and my indicator is when my transmission slips for the first time, so I just fill it up the next day. Maybe I'll just leave it for the hassle?

Your lucky with the trans. Mine is taking almost a quart a week.
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