1988 300TE - Misfires - Part #2
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So just over $300 altogether.
The exhaust down tube bolts:
Go under the car armed with a very long extension bar and a 13mm socket and disconnect the exhaust pipes from the manifold.
Hopefully that helps you.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
I paid $218 for the machine work and valve job, but I provided the guides and seals. I paid about $90 for the guides + seals at a local place (would have cost $70 on autohausarizona)
So just over $300 altogether.
The exhaust down tube bolts:
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=49516
Hopefully that helps you.
So just over $300 altogether.
The exhaust down tube bolts:
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=49516
Hopefully that helps you.
Couple of questions/suggestions.
Q) Do you have high tack gasket adhesive? It really helps to seal up the head gasket.
Q) Are you replacing the head bolts. They are what they call torque to yield so you can't reuse the old ones as they are stretched and won't have the same pull on the head?
Q) Do you have a tube of white grease? This stuff is essential when reassembling. I use it on any surface that requires lubrication from the motor oil so that there is no lag in lubrication when the car is first started. I would lube up the rockers, cam and everything that can be. Your car may take 5-15 seconds to build up oil pressure and you don't want anything running that long bone dry. The white grease is what NHRA mechanics use on their top fuel nitro engines.
Q) (I know this is a stupid question and I don't mean any disrespect or to imply you don't know) Do you have the correct tightening order for the head bolts? They are very specific so as to flatten out the gasket and not leave any hump or ridges in the head gasket.
Anyhow good luck and hope to see a Youtube video of this thing purring like a kitten.
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Everything Looks good. Hopefully everything goes well on the reassembly.
Couple of questions/suggestions.
Q) Do you have high tack gasket adhesive? It really helps to seal up the head gasket.
Q) Are you replacing the head bolts. They are what they call torque to yield so you can't reuse the old ones as they are stretched and won't have the same pull on the head?
Q) Do you have a tube of white grease? This stuff is essential when reassembling. I use it on any surface that requires lubrication from the motor oil so that there is no lag in lubrication when the car is first started. I would lube up the rockers, cam and everything that can be. Your car may take 5-15 seconds to build up oil pressure and you don't want anything running that long bone dry. The white grease is what NHRA mechanics use on their top fuel nitro engines.
Q) (I know this is a stupid question and I don't mean any disrespect or to imply you don't know) Do you have the correct tightening order for the head bolts? They are very specific so as to flatten out the gasket and not leave any hump or ridges in the head gasket.
Anyhow good luck and hope to see a Youtube video of this thing purring like a kitten.
Couple of questions/suggestions.
Q) Do you have high tack gasket adhesive? It really helps to seal up the head gasket.
Q) Are you replacing the head bolts. They are what they call torque to yield so you can't reuse the old ones as they are stretched and won't have the same pull on the head?
Q) Do you have a tube of white grease? This stuff is essential when reassembling. I use it on any surface that requires lubrication from the motor oil so that there is no lag in lubrication when the car is first started. I would lube up the rockers, cam and everything that can be. Your car may take 5-15 seconds to build up oil pressure and you don't want anything running that long bone dry. The white grease is what NHRA mechanics use on their top fuel nitro engines.
Q) (I know this is a stupid question and I don't mean any disrespect or to imply you don't know) Do you have the correct tightening order for the head bolts? They are very specific so as to flatten out the gasket and not leave any hump or ridges in the head gasket.
Anyhow good luck and hope to see a Youtube video of this thing purring like a kitten.
I bought new head bolts ready to replace.
I had in the back of my mind about putting something on the bone dry parts of the engine for the very reason you stated, but thanks for double checking.
I have the correct torque settings and order for everything. I'll just be following the haynes manual on refitting basically.
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1994 E320 Dragon Wagon
White lithium grease for reassembly? Could be the stuff. I've used good ol' STP for first start lube. The stuff sticks and is petroleum based. Also fun to goober around parts. I thought light grease might clog oil passages but made that up in my head.
I did have a friend, who after using liberal amounts of silicone, discovered that was a bad idea when his motor seized from a clog.
Good luck on the results bro. If that @##$-er is still kicking around at idle when this is complete, you have my permission to shoot it.
I did have a friend, who after using liberal amounts of silicone, discovered that was a bad idea when his motor seized from a clog.
Good luck on the results bro. If that @##$-er is still kicking around at idle when this is complete, you have my permission to shoot it.
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I got a land mine set up on my driveway. I'll Start her up....if she is still misfiring, I will pop her in neutral, push and run.
Not sure if I will get to finishing today....cleaning the top of the pistons is taking a long *** time...Gonna try though.
Not sure if I will get to finishing today....cleaning the top of the pistons is taking a long *** time...Gonna try though.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Give it a hour or two before you roll her over that claymore. Your engine will most likely run very very rough for the first little bit. It will often take getting her up to operating temp before the computer has gone through all its stuff and the engine calms down. My first rebuild i didn't know that and I thought I screwed up the engine and I called my Dad freaking out and he chuckled and told about it. It won't be as bad because this was just a top-ender but don't let it freak you out.
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Give it a hour or two before you roll her over that claymore. Your engine will most likely run very very rough for the first little bit. It will often take getting her up to operating temp before the computer has gone through all its stuff and the engine calms down. My first rebuild i didn't know that and I thought I screwed up the engine and I called my Dad freaking out and he chuckled and told about it. It won't be as bad because this was just a top-ender but don't let it freak you out.
Just ended my day I'm exhausted. Didn't get around to the head. The oil pan gasket and cleaning the engine just took what seemed forever...
This time the oil pan gasket didn't rip and all should be leakproof.
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
The exhaust down tube bolts:
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=49516
Hopefully that helps you.
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=49516
Hopefully that helps you.
I bought an extension and was able to get them off. I didn't have a flex joint so I angled the bar on one of the bolts because of the pre-cat in the way. Luckily no rounding of the bolt head.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
It is good to see from the picture that you got the most important tool when working on exhaust....a Pint of good brew.
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I was cleaning my pistons today and I just spotted this.
It looks like something fell into the engine at some point in its life and got crushed into the top of the piston.
You can see the marks on the head (that is after being skimmed too)...
What do you guys make of this?
It feels sharp to the touch.
It looks like something fell into the engine at some point in its life and got crushed into the top of the piston.
You can see the marks on the head (that is after being skimmed too)...
What do you guys make of this?
It feels sharp to the touch.
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Got the whole day to work on the engine
woohoo. Try and get this wrapped up finally.
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1992 300TE 4matic wagon
Lubri-plate(sp) is the white, rebuilder's assembly grease. There are others and probably NAPA has its own version. Head bolts need to be tightened in sequence, duh, but then you have to mark the bolt itself and move each a half turn in sequence...then go back and do another half turn in sequence. Something like that-it should be in your book if the book is correct. The torque wrench just gets you started, then you go by your painted or scribed bolt head mark. Maybe the bolts you bought even have a indicator mark already on them?
I wouldn't worry about the remnant pits from whatever fell in there. You're not going to lose compression, they don't look that deep and everything should seal up nicely. The head works looks very good from that shop.
Most people on their first rebuild expect everything to look factory fresh/perfect and it's never that way, except in race engines when no expense is spared.
Kevin
I wouldn't worry about the remnant pits from whatever fell in there. You're not going to lose compression, they don't look that deep and everything should seal up nicely. The head works looks very good from that shop.
Most people on their first rebuild expect everything to look factory fresh/perfect and it's never that way, except in race engines when no expense is spared. Kevin
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Ended up just using a hammer and gently making it flat which worked out perfectly.
Everything is back together. I'm just flushing my radiator then its time to start her up.
I'm very nervous and excited at the same time!!!
Everything is back together. I'm just flushing my radiator then its time to start her up.
I'm very nervous and excited at the same time!!!
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Posts: 844
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
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She STARTED FIRST time!! Removed the coil and cranked to get the oil pressure up and then reconnected. Started very fast and without any trouble at all -- Actually started up faster than she ever has before. Ticking noise at the back of the engine is also gone.
...So far still misfiring
...Still gonna keep my hopes up that the computer needs to reset itself and all the parts need to settle in.
If not, I have a very strong base to sit from now knowing that nothing mechanical is causing my misfire. I have replaced the entire ignition system minus the crank pos sensor....So that only leaves fuel delivery.
Gonna take her around the block (gently I might add as I should treat this as a new engine and build up before I give her an italian tune up ) and fill up with gas so I can see my consumption for next time.
...So far still misfiring
...Still gonna keep my hopes up that the computer needs to reset itself and all the parts need to settle in.
If not, I have a very strong base to sit from now knowing that nothing mechanical is causing my misfire. I have replaced the entire ignition system minus the crank pos sensor....So that only leaves fuel delivery.
Gonna take her around the block (gently I might add as I should treat this as a new engine and build up before I give her an italian tune up
) and fill up with gas so I can see my consumption for next time.
Last edited by ps2cho; Jan 25, 2009 at 01:00 AM.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
She STARTED FIRST time!! Removed the coil and cranked to get the oil pressure up and then reconnected. Started very fast and without any trouble at all -- Actually started up faster than she ever has before. Ticking noise at the back of the engine is also gone.
...So far still misfiring
...Still gonna keep my hopes up that the computer needs to reset itself and all the parts need to settle in.
If not, I have a very strong base to sit from now knowing that nothing mechanical is causing my misfire. I have replaced the entire ignition system minus the crank pos sensor....So that only leaves fuel delivery.
Gonna take her around the block (gently I might add as I should treat this as a new engine and build up before I give her an italian tune up ) and fill up with gas so I can see my consumption for next time.
...So far still misfiring
...Still gonna keep my hopes up that the computer needs to reset itself and all the parts need to settle in.
If not, I have a very strong base to sit from now knowing that nothing mechanical is causing my misfire. I have replaced the entire ignition system minus the crank pos sensor....So that only leaves fuel delivery.
Gonna take her around the block (gently I might add as I should treat this as a new engine and build up before I give her an italian tune up
) and fill up with gas so I can see my consumption for next time.
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Will do
I think it was very successful. I mean this is what I got done:
Oil pan gasket.
Head, intake and exhaust gasket, front timing cover gasket
New Serpentine belt.
New Water pump.
New Block Freeze Plug
New Valve Guides + Seals
Flushed Radiator
Basically 100% perfect head and a nice clean block.
Painted Exhaust Manifold temporarily until I get it coated properly.
I would have paid several thousand at any mechanic for the amount of work I did!
I just noticed though that my economy gauge isn't working....Must have missed a sensor or something?
----
Here are some final pictures to end the head work.
Exhaust manifold paint looks a "tad" cheesy....but in a few thousand miles when it gets a lil dirty it should look better.
Anybody know which vacuum line supplies the gauge in the dash? I double checked everything and I don't see any missing vacuum lines...
I think it was very successful. I mean this is what I got done:
Oil pan gasket.
Head, intake and exhaust gasket, front timing cover gasket
New Serpentine belt.
New Water pump.
New Block Freeze Plug
New Valve Guides + Seals
Flushed Radiator
Basically 100% perfect head and a nice clean block.
Painted Exhaust Manifold temporarily until I get it coated properly.
I would have paid several thousand at any mechanic for the amount of work I did!
I just noticed though that my economy gauge isn't working....Must have missed a sensor or something?
----
Here are some final pictures to end the head work.
Exhaust manifold paint looks a "tad" cheesy....but in a few thousand miles when it gets a lil dirty it should look better.
Anybody know which vacuum line supplies the gauge in the dash? I double checked everything and I don't see any missing vacuum lines...
Last edited by ps2cho; Jan 25, 2009 at 03:00 AM.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Will do
I think it was very successful. I mean this is what I got done:
Oil pan gasket.
Head, intake and exhaust gasket, front timing cover gasket
New Serpentine belt.
New Water pump.
New Block Freeze Plug
New Valve Guides + Seals
Flushed Radiator
Basically 100% perfect head and a nice clean block.
Painted Exhaust Manifold temporarily until I get it coated properly.
I would have paid several thousand at any mechanic for the amount of work I did!
I think it was very successful. I mean this is what I got done:
Oil pan gasket.
Head, intake and exhaust gasket, front timing cover gasket
New Serpentine belt.
New Water pump.
New Block Freeze Plug
New Valve Guides + Seals
Flushed Radiator
Basically 100% perfect head and a nice clean block.
Painted Exhaust Manifold temporarily until I get it coated properly.
I would have paid several thousand at any mechanic for the amount of work I did!
If so your gonna get hooked and want to do more. I always look for people selling nice cars for dirt cheap because of Head gaskets being blown or other things like that. I got a little Saturn SL some years back for $100 and put $600 into a full rebuild on the engine and then drove it for 100K. I am now keeping my eyes open for a Mazda Miata to make into a roadster.
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Was this your first top-ender?
If so your gonna get hooked and want to do more. I always look for people selling nice cars for dirt cheap because of Head gaskets being blown or other things like that. I got a little Saturn SL some years back for $100 and put $600 into a full rebuild on the engine and then drove it for 100K. I am now keeping my eyes open for a Mazda Miata to make into a roadster.
If so your gonna get hooked and want to do more. I always look for people selling nice cars for dirt cheap because of Head gaskets being blown or other things like that. I got a little Saturn SL some years back for $100 and put $600 into a full rebuild on the engine and then drove it for 100K. I am now keeping my eyes open for a Mazda Miata to make into a roadster.
It was actually easier than I expected although there were a few complications and tricky parts. I've been looking at doing the same thing....My dad nabbed a 1993 Buick Roadmaster for $200 a few weeks ago. The Chevy small block v8 drives like a dream in it...it just needs a few panels and a new hood and it'll be perfect!
----
Gonna try and figure out this economy gauge today. Got any ideas which vacuum line it could be? I checked everything over last night and couldn't see anything...
Last edited by ps2cho; Jan 25, 2009 at 11:54 AM.
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1994 E320 Dragon Wagon
Nice, a successful first start! Trace that vac line to the Econ gauge quick. It should penetrate the firewall somewhere from the intake manifold. If the gauge is flat you may have a vac leak point. Listen for the hissin'
My M104 snacked on its crank pos. sensor and had horrid idle, midrange and top-end. You'll know when that baby takes a dirt nap.
My M104 snacked on its crank pos. sensor and had horrid idle, midrange and top-end. You'll know when that baby takes a dirt nap.
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Found her! It is located by the fuse box and is yellow. I never removed it...so it must of popped out accidently. Only found it because I saw some leaves had fallen down in that place and on my glace up I spotted it. Sweet!
Went to the junkyard today and found a full set of wood interior for the doors, center console and around the glovebox from a later w124. Gonna try and make it work I also picked up an EHA valve and the becker alarm system unit. Got all of that for $27!
Gonna try the EHA valve as I have messed with the two which I own...so ya never know that it is "maybe" fixed that the fiddling with the EHA valve is causing flow restriction.
Went to the junkyard today and found a full set of wood interior for the doors, center console and around the glovebox from a later w124. Gonna try and make it work
I also picked up an EHA valve and the becker alarm system unit. Got all of that for $27!Gonna try the EHA valve as I have messed with the two which I own...so ya never know that it is "maybe" fixed that the fiddling with the EHA valve is causing flow restriction.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Found her! It is located by the fuse box and is yellow. I never removed it...so it must of popped out accidently. Only found it because I saw some leaves had fallen down in that place and on my glace up I spotted it. Sweet!
Went to the junkyard today and found a full set of wood interior for the doors, center console and around the glovebox from a later w124. Gonna try and make it work I also picked up an EHA valve and the becker alarm system unit. Got all of that for $27!
Gonna try the EHA valve as I have messed with the two which I own...so ya never know that it is "maybe" fixed that the fiddling with the EHA valve is causing flow restriction.
Went to the junkyard today and found a full set of wood interior for the doors, center console and around the glovebox from a later w124. Gonna try and make it work
I also picked up an EHA valve and the becker alarm system unit. Got all of that for $27!Gonna try the EHA valve as I have messed with the two which I own...so ya never know that it is "maybe" fixed that the fiddling with the EHA valve is causing flow restriction.
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Everything is running smooth again. My misfire seems a little better...but its still there of course 
I've done about 100 miles since the removal so I got on the pedal a little bit today and I'd say performance-wise its no different.
I found out during the course of my head removal that one my precats was not cut out by the exhaust guy (yes im mad he only cut out ONE of them)...so I'm getting that cleared up tomorrow so there won't be any potential problems because of it. Once that is done my next plan of action is to measure the temperature at the manifold for injector problems. The previous owners showed a receipt for the injectors + seals....but I gotta make sure I cover that base before I move further.
I gotta get the exhaust done first otherwise the results will be skewed for the temperatures at each exhaust outlet.
If nothing comes up with the injectors then I'm gonna head back to the junkyard and grab a crank position sensor. I'm really running out of possibilities here!!
The EHA valve I found at the JY was a POS. Felt horribly struggling for fuel so I put my old one back in. For $2.99 who can complain At least I got a spare that will allow the car to "run".
I've done about 100 miles since the removal so I got on the pedal a little bit today and I'd say performance-wise its no different.
I found out during the course of my head removal that one my precats was not cut out by the exhaust guy (yes im mad he only cut out ONE of them)...so I'm getting that cleared up tomorrow so there won't be any potential problems because of it. Once that is done my next plan of action is to measure the temperature at the manifold for injector problems. The previous owners showed a receipt for the injectors + seals....but I gotta make sure I cover that base before I move further.
I gotta get the exhaust done first otherwise the results will be skewed for the temperatures at each exhaust outlet.
If nothing comes up with the injectors then I'm gonna head back to the junkyard and grab a crank position sensor. I'm really running out of possibilities here!!
The EHA valve I found at the JY was a POS. Felt horribly struggling for fuel so I put my old one back in. For $2.99 who can complain
At least I got a spare that will allow the car to "run".
Last edited by ps2cho; Jan 28, 2009 at 11:05 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Everything is running smooth again. My misfire seems a little better...but its still there of course
I've done about 100 miles since the removal so I got on the pedal a little bit today and I'd say performance-wise its no different.
I found out during the course of my head removal that one my precats was not cut out by the exhaust guy (yes im mad he only cut out ONE of them)...so I'm getting that cleared up tomorrow so there won't be any potential problems because of it. Once that is done my next plan of action is to measure the temperature at the manifold for injector problems. The previous owners showed a receipt for the injectors + seals....but I gotta make sure I cover that base before I move further.
I gotta get the exhaust done first otherwise the results will be skewed for the temperatures at each exhaust outlet.
If nothing comes up with the injectors then I'm gonna head back to the junkyard and grab a crank position sensor. I'm really running out of possibilities here!!
The EHA valve I found at the JY was a POS. Felt horribly struggling for fuel so I put my old one back in. For $2.99 who can complain At least I got a spare that will allow the car to "run".
I've done about 100 miles since the removal so I got on the pedal a little bit today and I'd say performance-wise its no different.
I found out during the course of my head removal that one my precats was not cut out by the exhaust guy (yes im mad he only cut out ONE of them)...so I'm getting that cleared up tomorrow so there won't be any potential problems because of it. Once that is done my next plan of action is to measure the temperature at the manifold for injector problems. The previous owners showed a receipt for the injectors + seals....but I gotta make sure I cover that base before I move further.
I gotta get the exhaust done first otherwise the results will be skewed for the temperatures at each exhaust outlet.
If nothing comes up with the injectors then I'm gonna head back to the junkyard and grab a crank position sensor. I'm really running out of possibilities here!!
The EHA valve I found at the JY was a POS. Felt horribly struggling for fuel so I put my old one back in. For $2.99 who can complain
At least I got a spare that will allow the car to "run".Does the car miss while under throttle, only at idle or anytime?
