E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

90 124w blower help please

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Old 10-06-2009, 03:30 PM
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91 300 te
90 124w blower help please

92 300te 4natic, blower inop., no power to motor but fuses good, suggestions?
This is my daily, and I have it all apart!
Thanks
Old 10-06-2009, 04:28 PM
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i'm not an expert but if you are certain it is the blower motor, then replacing it is fairly easy but lengthy (took me around 4 hrs). Lots of write-ups on this forum but the best write up is on mercedes shop.
Old 10-06-2009, 04:30 PM
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91 300 te
Originally Posted by optimizer
i'm not an expert but if you are certain it is the blower motor, then replacing it is fairly easy but lengthy (took me around 4 hrs). Lots of write-ups on this forum but the best write up is on mercedes shop.
I am fairly cetrain the motor is bad, but again, there is NO power getting to it.
Old 10-06-2009, 07:54 PM
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1994 E420
i know you said the fuser is good but did you also check the fuse for the climate control unit?
Old 10-06-2009, 10:35 PM
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1990 300CE, 1984 190e 2.3 (sold)
I had this same problem You sure you are checking the right fuse? It is the fuse right next to your hood sensor switch above the drivers side wheel and in front of the fuse box. It has a black cover that opens to reveal an aluminum strip.
Old 10-09-2009, 09:13 AM
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I just had the blower go out on my 95 E300 - the motors and supposedly the blower motor regulators are notorious for going out. I bought both brand new from AZ Auto H. online for $588 I believe - it is a pita job but MB indy's want 1,200-1,500 for this job but you can do it yourself, I did.
Old 10-09-2009, 10:52 AM
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this really isnt a pita job. Its only time consuming. Everything is very straight forward. Ive done this job countless times at my shop, and ive got it down to about an hour and a half maybe two hours from start to finish.
Old 10-09-2009, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JSe420
this really isnt a pita job. Its only time consuming. Everything is very straight forward. Ive done this job countless times at my shop, and ive got it down to about an hour and a half maybe two hours from start to finish.
Maybe you can help me too !
my cars blower seems to be working becouse its always on . how can I make it stop ? I changed the controls already once but that blower seems to go on still.Am i operating the controls wrong becouse I tried all the buttons. Ohh wait one of the buttos does make it stop blowing air in, its the one with the "0" but after a couple of seconds it starts again . What can it be ?
Old 10-11-2009, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by valvar
Maybe you can help me too !
my cars blower seems to be working becouse its always on . how can I make it stop ? I changed the controls already once but that blower seems to go on still.Am i operating the controls wrong becouse I tried all the buttons. Ohh wait one of the buttos does make it stop blowing air in, its the one with the "0" but after a couple of seconds it starts again . What can it be ?
I don't know, most of the complaints with the blower motor is 'no air is coming out' not the problem you have.
Old 10-11-2009, 01:08 PM
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I've had the same problem, and I've done a good bit of work on it so far.

My fan won't start at all when controlled with the climate control panel. I started off by replacing the regulator, which didn't help. I did find that I was getting voltage to the fan's hot lead, but the variable ground on it through the regulator didn't seem to work.

I wired up a switch to the ground wire and the body. If I need the fan to come on, I just flip it, but that is not my preferred solution. In fact it's rather irritating.

Yesterday I replaced the climate control panel to find that also did not fix the problem. Previously I replaced the strip-fuse with a blade fuse, and that made no difference. I also replaced a number of the other tin fuses in the fuse box (but not all, yet..) which did not cure the problem either. At this point I'm thinking it is the blower motor itself somehow making it not respond to less than full voltage.

There's a wiring plug directly behind the brake master cylinder. One of these is always +12v (red), the other ground (black), and a signal wire (yellow). (colors given for the wires plugged into the top part of this plug). To check if it's your control panel, test the voltage between ground and signal posts. If that voltage changes when you press switches on the panel, I would suspect it to be your regulator (at least this is what I thought..)

My fan worked when I hooked it directly to the battery, but I think there's still room for error when it comes to its capacity to work at the variable voltages required of a multispeed fan.

I did my wiring modifications to the old blower regulator and reinstalled, with hope that replacing the panel would solve the problem. My next step is to replace the motor itself (or the brushes? I've read a lot about that...) and put in the replacement regulator as well.

The job itself isn't hard, just tedious. It helps to make sure you have your hood opened up all the way (I discovered the latches when I was mostly done putting the thing back together ). Also keep track of which screws go where, and it shouldn't be that hard of a job. It's just a giant, simple jigsaw puzzle screwed together in key locations.

Hope this helps and saves you some time.
Let us know when you come up with.
Old 10-11-2009, 09:54 PM
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Update: I did pull the fan out and found no power to it. I had some electrical contact cleaner and lube spray and sprayed it up and got it turning fairly smoothly. There was NO power or ground at the fan wires (red/blue) nor at the 3 wire plug behind the master cylinder. A few days earlier I had checked all my fuses, including the flat strip fuse which looked good and had power at both ends, but today I rechecked it and although it looked fine it did NOT have power at both ends.
I did not have a replacement fuse in my box but did have this GM style fuseable link, so I slightly modified it and VOILA!
I buttoned it all back up and it works fine.
http://

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