Replacing transmission front pump seal
05-18-2011, 12:04 AM
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1999 E320
Replacing transmission front pump seal
I have to replace a front pump seal in the transmission of my 99 E320. Does anyone know what is the proper tightening torque for the bolts that connect bell housing with the transmission case and the front pump bolts ?
Last edited by zdzich; 05-18-2011 at 12:09 AM.
05-20-2011, 04:26 PM
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2014 ML350 4Matic
I am very interested in your project. I have to do the same job on my 2000 C280.
I did some research on the WIS and I have not yet found the torque for the bell housing bolts. I did find that the bell housing has to be separated from the transmission case to remove the front pump. The pump actually fits into the bell housing from the rear (the transmission side as opposed to the engine side). My plan to do the was to try to do it from the bell housing side without removing the front pump. I would have to go back into WIS to find all that info (and I don't necessarily want to pay for another 24 hours just yet).
The torque for the converter to the flex plate is listed two ways, 1) for the "straight threaded connection" it is 42 Nm or 2) for an "angled threaded connection" it is in three steps of 4 Nm, 20 Nm and a 90 degree tightening angle. I am not sure how to distinguish between the two types of connection. It may be obvious once you are in there.
I would also recommend doing the rear main seal at the same time. I have three cars with the M112/M113 engines and two of the three have the rear main leaking (one at 60K and one at 90K). I found something in the WIS that baffles me. It states "the crankshaft radial sealing ring (2) at the end cover (1) cannot be exchanged. The end cover is fitted at the factory and therefore must be replaced". The end cover is the plate that the seal is pressed into. It isn't particularly expensive (under $40) but it seems absurd to have to replace it every time the seal ring is replaced. It also warms not to try to remove the seal from the end plate with the end plate installed, yet the end plate is to be reinstalled before pressing in a new seal ring.
I would be interested in the comments of others.
I did some research on the WIS and I have not yet found the torque for the bell housing bolts. I did find that the bell housing has to be separated from the transmission case to remove the front pump. The pump actually fits into the bell housing from the rear (the transmission side as opposed to the engine side). My plan to do the was to try to do it from the bell housing side without removing the front pump. I would have to go back into WIS to find all that info (and I don't necessarily want to pay for another 24 hours just yet).
The torque for the converter to the flex plate is listed two ways, 1) for the "straight threaded connection" it is 42 Nm or 2) for an "angled threaded connection" it is in three steps of 4 Nm, 20 Nm and a 90 degree tightening angle. I am not sure how to distinguish between the two types of connection. It may be obvious once you are in there.
I would also recommend doing the rear main seal at the same time. I have three cars with the M112/M113 engines and two of the three have the rear main leaking (one at 60K and one at 90K). I found something in the WIS that baffles me. It states "the crankshaft radial sealing ring (2) at the end cover (1) cannot be exchanged. The end cover is fitted at the factory and therefore must be replaced". The end cover is the plate that the seal is pressed into. It isn't particularly expensive (under $40) but it seems absurd to have to replace it every time the seal ring is replaced. It also warms not to try to remove the seal from the end plate with the end plate installed, yet the end plate is to be reinstalled before pressing in a new seal ring.
I would be interested in the comments of others.
