'99 E300TD won't start
 

Hello to everybody! Today i tried to start my E300TD after sitting about 3 months (from december 2011 till today - in that period of time i never start it) but the car wont start.All the stuffs work - lights, windows, electric seats etc, but the car won,t start :nix: on my tachometer in the service section appear the following error : "25 days" and service key:nix:I don,t think the battery is dead beaucause i check it.Which would be the cause and what i can done myself to start the car?Thanks alot!

Could you be a bit more specific please. Does it actually turn over(starter running) and fails to run, or it does nothing at all.

The starter work,it tried to start the engine but the engine don't start.

Only the starter make some noise when it try to start the engine but the engine don't make any noise and don't start.I hope my explanation is ok.:))

K, what kind of noise? Do you only hear the solenoid clicking? or does it actually spin the engine?

Check your battery voltage if you have a multimeter, or with ACC display(let us know which one as there is a difference in reading between the two).

Also turn on your interior light and check if they dim as you try to start the engine, if they do you simply need to charge/boost the battery.

This weekend i will try again to start the car with another battery.:))

99 300td starting issues . . .
 

Engine won’t start, performed the following: IM is off. In addition to checking GP with multimeter I removed each plug, put a ground wire on and turned key on 2, all plugs glow. Opened pressure line on #1 injector, fuel is squirting out.
SOV plug: With key on 2, voltage between 2 and 3 is 5V. On OFF 5V.
Resistance between 4 and 1 is 21.38 Ohms. With key OFF, 11.56.
Pins on SOV: Key ON, Voltage is 5V. Key OFF: 5V. Resistance: Key ON 0.0, Key OFF 0.0.
Timing camshafts and fuel delivery IP is spot-on. There is no air in fuel lines. Brand new battery fully charged. Codes P0380, P0180. Tried starting engine multiple times, solenoid is clicking, why does it not start? Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Here you go:
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction -
P0180 – Fuel temperature sensor A -circuit malfunction
Temperature sensor would not affect engine start, but those engines need good preheating to start.
Did you check the GP relay? I recall it has a fuse in it.

As mentioned in my post, I removed the glow plugs, attached a ground wire and with the switch on 2 the glow plugs heated up very quickly. Wouldn't that indicate the system works or is there something else involved?

Somehow, my answer to your post separated. Please check it out. Many thanks.

I remember, in one of your posts you posted values at the SOV plug concerning resistance, something like 8.75 high. Compare that with mine would it indicate a faulty relay? I have no book for reference. As of glow plugs, I gave an answer to katjek1 I would appreciate you reading it.Thanks for all your help.

You also have "circuit malfunction" error, so it has to be something else involved.
You should test resistance of each GP, what is easy on relay plug and confirm the relay supply power during no-start.
Other than that, you can try DIESEL starting fluid and see if the engine will fire.

Logically, when the engine doesn't turn, that is starter problem, not starting problem.
Someone has problem with English comprehension.

This morning I erased the the fault codes, cranked engine, no start. Sprayed WD40 onto filter, still no go. What else is there left I should do. The only thing that comes to mind is compression but why should that be an issue? Looking forward to an answer.

Did the GP light cycled the way it suppose to?
Do you see any air in clear tubings?
Did any errors come back?

Thanks katjek1, the fault codes did not return. TheGP light cyles through the process. Clear fuel is squirting out of cyl. #1. As of air in the tubing I replaced all o-rings with Viton. However, I do see a line of tiny bubbles in line#6 while cranking. Measured resistance on SOV again it reads 1936 Ohms. As of line 6 it is a discharge line from the IP, so where would the bubbles originate? I much appreciate any help I can get.

Think about it. You have air in return tubing, that works under the pressure, while in front of the system you have tubings working with vacuum.
I made the mistake of using Viton orings once, that was like 12 years ago. Never again.
So you are not the first one making the mistake of fooling with fuel lines, instead of getting whole new set.

I removed tubing #6 between IP and filter, the one with tiny bubbles and replaced the aluminum washers on the IP side, the o-ring was already done. No more bubbles. A new phenomenon occurred, tubing #1 between thermostat and prefilter; the fuel, instead of filling the tube from the thermostat to the prefilter it reversed filling from the prefilter. I know what is going to be ask: since the question was raised in many forums why there is so much air in mentioned pipe, the general consensus is that it is normal. I also raised that question even though it never interfered with starting or running. Obviously, things are getting weirder by the minute; I desperately hope someone has an answer. Thanks in advance.

Engine still not run, I must take a leak down test. Of what I read, each cylinder has to be at the top. Please tell me how to do that.

Leak tests come popular on cdi engines, where with electronic injectors can be good indication of injector shape.
Have never heard about the test done on mechanical injectors, so that will be interesting.
Your injectors have 2 leak outlets to be connected in row, so you need to plug one outlet and hook up measuring device to the other one.

I don't won't to test injectors. What I need to know is leakage of the whole engine such as head gasket, pistons, intake/exhaust valves, etc.. Of what I read it involves placing each piston top center. Apparently, the numbers on the balancer are indicators for each piston specified in a workshop manual I do not have.