2001 E430 4Matic starting problems
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2001 E430 4matic
2001 E430 4Matic starting problems
Hi
I am experiencing starting problems with my car. I was returning home from a road trip, stopped for gas after being in a line up on the interstate, the car refused to start after the fillup. I turned the key and no response, just a noise. I had a boost with no luck. I was towed to an independent MB repair shop where the starter, and the ME module were changed with still no luck to start the car. I was 900 miles from home so they installed a button on the dash to supply voltage to the starter circuitry to get the car started. I was able to make it home and get to a dealership which tried replaceing the K40 module circuit board with still no luck. The repairs and troubleshooting were getting too expensive so I have taken a breather with garages for a while.
Anyone have any ideas? Stuck driving my car with a pushbutton to start it is no fun.
I am experiencing starting problems with my car. I was returning home from a road trip, stopped for gas after being in a line up on the interstate, the car refused to start after the fillup. I turned the key and no response, just a noise. I had a boost with no luck. I was towed to an independent MB repair shop where the starter, and the ME module were changed with still no luck to start the car. I was 900 miles from home so they installed a button on the dash to supply voltage to the starter circuitry to get the car started. I was able to make it home and get to a dealership which tried replaceing the K40 module circuit board with still no luck. The repairs and troubleshooting were getting too expensive so I have taken a breather with garages for a while.
Anyone have any ideas? Stuck driving my car with a pushbutton to start it is no fun.
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2001 E430 4matic
2001 E430 4Matic starting problems
Thank you for the reply. Yes, the ECU or ME module was changed, and as far as I know the service centre coded it properly. The problem was still not resolved. They continued to work on the problem with no success and called in another independent technician. He finally got the car to start by bypassing the problem, supplying voltage to somehwere in the electronics so the car would start. Since the service centre was closing down for the weekend, a spring loaded pushbutton was installed on the dash so that I could push and hold to supply voltage to the electronics and turn the key to start the car. I continued my journey home for the next 900 miles and about 12 sucessfull starts with the pushbutton.
I then brought the car to a dealership where they diagnosed a defective K40 module. It was ordered, installed and still no resolution to the problem. Another ECU was tried with no success. It was pointed out to me that the problem was probably in the wiring and would require extensive labor to continue the diagnosis. That was the point where I stopped working on the car for financial reasons.
I then brought the car to a dealership where they diagnosed a defective K40 module. It was ordered, installed and still no resolution to the problem. Another ECU was tried with no success. It was pointed out to me that the problem was probably in the wiring and would require extensive labor to continue the diagnosis. That was the point where I stopped working on the car for financial reasons.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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Two questions:
In the RUN position, do you get a "P" in the gearshift indicator on the instrument cluster? (in other words does the car know it's in PARK)
Are any of the fuses blown on module K40 - particular the 10 amp fuse #3 (even after it was changed - you will have to unscrew the cover and check each one - screws are captive so no worries about losing them)
In the RUN position, do you get a "P" in the gearshift indicator on the instrument cluster? (in other words does the car know it's in PARK)
Are any of the fuses blown on module K40 - particular the 10 amp fuse #3 (even after it was changed - you will have to unscrew the cover and check each one - screws are captive so no worries about losing them)
Last edited by apl175; Jul 11, 2013 at 07:22 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4
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From: Atlanta, GA, USA
2011 C300 Lux (RWD), 2000 E320 (RWD)
Two questions:
In the RUN position, do you get a "P" in the gearshift indicator on the instrument cluster? (in other words does the car know it's in PARK)
Are any of the fuses blown on module K40 - particular the 10 amp fuse #3 (even after it was changed - you will have to unscrew the cover and check each one - screws are captive so no worries about losing them)
In the RUN position, do you get a "P" in the gearshift indicator on the instrument cluster? (in other words does the car know it's in PARK)
Are any of the fuses blown on module K40 - particular the 10 amp fuse #3 (even after it was changed - you will have to unscrew the cover and check each one - screws are captive so no worries about losing them)
Hello apl175.
Sorry for hijacking someone else's thread, I have a similar problem with my wife's 2000 E320 (US version).
Yesterday on the way home the car three various errors (abs, brs, ESP) while driving. We were only few hundred meters from our house so I drove the car home and noticed that car seemed had very low power went up the incline in our driveway. One home, I turned the car off and found that it would not crank when I tried to restart it.
This morning I pulled out the k40 unit and checked the solders and all looks well there, but I found that the 10 amp #3 fuse had blown. I replaced the fuse and the car started. It turned it off, it failed to crank again and sure enough the fuse that I just replaced had blown once more.
I replaced the blown fuse again and the car seems to be fine now. I started and stopped it several times without an issue, but I suspect that its just a matter of time before the fuse blows again.
Can you please let me know what the blown 10amp #3 (3rd from the right) fuse indicates? I have not had much luck with searching this forum when I tried to identify what this fuse relates to. Is this the fuse for the ECU box cooling fan that is mentioned in several threads here? Most of those threads refer to a 15 amp fuse.
Your input would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Edit: in case it makes a difference, I forgot to mention that everything powered up fine when I turned the key - lights, ac, power windows, radio, etc. but the car did not crank until I replaced the blown fuse.
Last edited by Gtalexad2001; Aug 4, 2013 at 02:25 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 303
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Yes that #3 fuse inexplicably controls power to the transmission control module, and the module box cooling fan that is fitted to most gasoline powered W210s. I would carry several spare fuses in the car, and if it blows again you can temporarily disconnect the fan by removing the fan power connector. It is a 2 wire connector (one of the few) near the fuses and relays in one of the corners. Replace the fuse, and if the engine starts, you can get to your destination. You'll know even before trying to start the car that the fuse is blown, because the "P" will not appear in the gear shift display matrix area.
I would also take the time to remove the electrical connectors from the transmission control unit which is the smallest module (3rd one from the top of the module box I think) and check for signs of oil or wetness at the connector that could indicate transmission fluid is wicking up the wiring and draining in to the ECU box which could foul the cooling fan. This fan runs continuously - it is not thermostatically controlled, so you may also find a need to replace it if the armature is shorted as they were on the one I looked at. Replacement isn't at all difficult if you are able to source a new one, and are willing to pull the module box apart.
Common sense suggests that you should not drive the car for long periods without this fan operating, especially in this hot Atlanta weather that we find ourselves in.
I would also take the time to remove the electrical connectors from the transmission control unit which is the smallest module (3rd one from the top of the module box I think) and check for signs of oil or wetness at the connector that could indicate transmission fluid is wicking up the wiring and draining in to the ECU box which could foul the cooling fan. This fan runs continuously - it is not thermostatically controlled, so you may also find a need to replace it if the armature is shorted as they were on the one I looked at. Replacement isn't at all difficult if you are able to source a new one, and are willing to pull the module box apart.
Common sense suggests that you should not drive the car for long periods without this fan operating, especially in this hot Atlanta weather that we find ourselves in.
Hello apl175.
Sorry for hijacking someone else's thread, I have a similar problem with my wife's 2000 E320 (US version).
Yesterday on the way home the car three various errors (abs, brs, ESP) while driving. We were only few hundred meters from our house so I drove the car home and noticed that car seemed had very low power went up the incline in our driveway. One home, I turned the car off and found that it would not crank when I tried to restart it.
This morning I pulled out the k40 unit and checked the solders and all looks well there, but I found that the 10 amp #3 fuse had blown. I replaced the fuse and the car started. It turned it off, it failed to crank again and sure enough the fuse that I just replaced had blown once more.
I replaced the blown fuse again and the car seems to be fine now. I started and stopped it several times without an issue, but I suspect that its just a matter of time before the fuse blows again.
Can you please let me know what the blown 10amp #3 (3rd from the right) fuse indicates? I have not had much luck with searching this forum when I tried to identify what this fuse relates to. Is this the fuse for the ECU box cooling fan that is mentioned in several threads here? Most of those threads refer to a 15 amp fuse.
Your input would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Edit: in case it makes a difference, I forgot to mention that everything powered up fine when I turned the key - lights, ac, power windows, radio, etc. but the car did not crank until I replaced the blown fuse.
Sorry for hijacking someone else's thread, I have a similar problem with my wife's 2000 E320 (US version).
Yesterday on the way home the car three various errors (abs, brs, ESP) while driving. We were only few hundred meters from our house so I drove the car home and noticed that car seemed had very low power went up the incline in our driveway. One home, I turned the car off and found that it would not crank when I tried to restart it.
This morning I pulled out the k40 unit and checked the solders and all looks well there, but I found that the 10 amp #3 fuse had blown. I replaced the fuse and the car started. It turned it off, it failed to crank again and sure enough the fuse that I just replaced had blown once more.
I replaced the blown fuse again and the car seems to be fine now. I started and stopped it several times without an issue, but I suspect that its just a matter of time before the fuse blows again.
Can you please let me know what the blown 10amp #3 (3rd from the right) fuse indicates? I have not had much luck with searching this forum when I tried to identify what this fuse relates to. Is this the fuse for the ECU box cooling fan that is mentioned in several threads here? Most of those threads refer to a 15 amp fuse.
Your input would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Edit: in case it makes a difference, I forgot to mention that everything powered up fine when I turned the key - lights, ac, power windows, radio, etc. but the car did not crank until I replaced the blown fuse.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4
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From: Atlanta, GA, USA
2011 C300 Lux (RWD), 2000 E320 (RWD)
Thank you for the clarification.
It's my wife's car, so it seems it will be best if I replace the fan since I don't want her to be stranded somewhere.
Is the part generic for all w210s or are there different fans depending on the VIN?
It's my wife's car, so it seems it will be best if I replace the fan since I don't want her to be stranded somewhere.
Is the part generic for all w210s or are there different fans depending on the VIN?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 303
Likes: 25
Unfortunately the part is different for each model year and engine variants.. The MY2001 E430 that I worked on, had a fan that was replaced with this Papst fan:
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...138&CMP=AFC-OP
The mounting ears needed to be adapted with large washers as they were offset from the original.
Other vehicles may have a "Johnson" fan that apparently can be replaced with this Radio Shack motor: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102827
You may also wish to price replacements using the part # at parts.com or your favorite supplier. I briefly entertained a "good used one" from ebay, but as this fan is under continuous duty, decided against it.
most of my research and decision making came from here: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...m-ecu-fan.html
Good luck!
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...138&CMP=AFC-OP
The mounting ears needed to be adapted with large washers as they were offset from the original.
Other vehicles may have a "Johnson" fan that apparently can be replaced with this Radio Shack motor: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102827
You may also wish to price replacements using the part # at parts.com or your favorite supplier. I briefly entertained a "good used one" from ebay, but as this fan is under continuous duty, decided against it.
most of my research and decision making came from here: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...m-ecu-fan.html
Good luck!
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