W210Scot

I've been chasing a vibration in the E320 for a while now. Doesn't bother me when I'm driving it, but then again my daily is a 24-year-old rattletrap Miata! Early research suggested it could be the motor mounts, particularly when my wife complained about an intermittent rough idle while stopped with the car in Drive. So I swapped the mounts, and the vibration is still there (and to be honest, the mounts I took out didn't look that bad compared to the new ones).

So we were driving some place to dinner when I noticed that the car began shuddering at around 50 mph. It got worse when I accelerated to 60, and a bit less at 70. I suspected a possible wheel balance problem, but I did a bit more research on the ol' interweb and found that the problem could also be excessive play in the front wheel bearings. I went out and jacked up the right front corner, grabbed the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock, and gave it a good shake. Yup, it's loose. Very loose. So is the left front, although not quite as bad.

I thought it would be a good idea in the meantime to snug up the spindle nut, but I could not for the life of me get the dust cap off! I tried prying with a screwdriver in the groove on the cap, against the edge of the cap, using gentle application of force, all to no avail.

In the meantime I decided that I might as well replace the bearings, but I still need to know if there's any special tricks anyone knows of for removing the dust caps. And before you all jump in with "use the search function, newbie!!" I did and didn't turn up anything even remotely relevant.

Thanks in advance!

suicidal4life

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...placement.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...free-play.html


MB shows a puller tool to be used on the dust cap but both of the above DIY threads mention it can be done by just prying it with a screwdriver.

optimusprime m1

Something blunt ,dont use a screwdriver and hammer to tap them off as i did , and split the grease cap , then had to replace it .And on assembly dont fill the grease cap to the top as it will transfer to the back seals and it will bleed out .

Critter

Not meant to be unkind but if you do not know how to get off a dust cap, do not attempt bearing replacements, let a professional do the work and ask if you can watch. Removing inner seals and tapping out races and reinstall, grease packing bearings the proper way and the preload on reassembly after you get the brake caliper and caliper mount and rotor off should be left to someone trained or more experienced.

W210Scot

It's not the first time I've changed front wheel bearings on a car, just the first time on this one. And every other one had a cap that fit inside a bore on the outside of the hub, so it's fairly easy to get those off with a screwdriver.


Once I get the dust caps off, it's nothing I can't handle.

Plutoe

"had a cap that fit inside a bore on the outside of the hub"---that is exactly how the cap fits the MB hub------FYI a roofers claw hammer backed by some wood works wonders, just be patient and do not repeat do not try to knock the hub off!!

W210Scot

I may not have phrased that correctly. What I meant was a flange that fits inside the outboard end of the hub bore, as opposed to the Benz's cap which appears to have a sleeve that fits around the outer diameter. I'm not a complete idiot; I have a few parts missing.


Your suggestion of a claw hammer and a wood block sounds like it's worth a try, though.

Plutoe

Not any claw hammer as the key is how straight back does the claw go, like in a roofing claw hammer as opposed to a home owners hammer---there is a big difference----and the cap goesinto not over!!

W210Scot

I just got my new bearings from Pelican Parts. The kits I bought include new dust caps, and there is nothing on these that would fit INSIDE the hub bore.


This of course also means I don't have to be gentle taking the old ones off, as long as I don't damage the hub.

optimusprime m1

Well yes your old ones have the mercedes logo on them ,new ones wont.

W210Scot

The old ones on mine didn't have the MBZ logo on them, although I could have reused them. I took them off by using a screwdriver in the groove prying against a wood block. As for putting them back on, a light smear of grease on the outside of the hub center helped them slide home a little more easily.

And boy, were the bearings ever loose! The spindle nuts on both sides came off by hand once I loosened the lock bolts.

optimusprime m1

You should have took all the play out with adjustment on the retaining nut and it would be fine , no need for bearings.

W210Scot

You're probably right, but the car has 128K on the odometer and I don't know when they were last changed.

optimusprime m1

Well if you want to change them its up to you ,as its your car, and you will know they will be ok after the job. Dont lock them right up ,you need a little free play or the bearing will over heat.

W210Scot

Yeah, the way I see it I have a baseline for when the bearings were last changed now.

I read the tech article on this job at Pelican Parts's website (and I also bought the new bearings from them), and per their article you snug the spindle nut down until you cannot turn the hub and then back it off until you can just turn it. With the tools I have on hand, I couldn't snug the nut enough to stop the hub from turning; I don't have a wrench on hand of any sort that fits the nut. I could, with some effort, turn the hub with the wheel off. Hopefully that's good enough.

They also mentioned that you could use a dial indicator to set the end play, but I couldn't find one from my usual sources that measures precisely enough to measure their spec (0.01-0.02 mm).