benzgs

Any suggestions on a good economical diagnostic tool/scanner(s) that can diagnose other systems besides emissions, such as the ABS and ESP? Hopefully around $100 or less. I currently have an Innova 3040E, but it doesn't seem to be picking up those systems on my cars ('02 E320 and '00 3 series BMW).

I prefer one for multiple car makes, or at least Mercedes and BMW, since I'm currently diagnosing ABS and stability control systems on those cars.

Thanks!

Strigoi

If you want to access more than you can with just an OBDII scanner, you'll need one that connects to the 38 pin connector under the hood. Those setups cost quite a bit. Cheap Star/DAS/Xentry setups usually start at around $600.

kajtek1

Good scanner at the time is iCarsoft MBII, but per manual it does not support older MB.
Having 38pin adapter I gave it a try on my 1998 SL500 and it read something, but not much and I had no need to play with it farther.
Maxiecu support older MB and their 38 cable cost 10 bucks, but read their site what exactly the software supports.
That said, I drove W210 for about 10 years before first trouble requiring MB scanner arrived. It was transmission, but eventually new pilot bushing and new electric plate fixed it for the price of indy diagnosis (at the time).
Meaning the car is pretty reliable and pretty predictable, making scanner optional.

benzgs

Thanks for responses so far.

My issue right now with the W210 is the ESP warning simultaneously with BAS ABS light coming on causing limp mode. This happens repeatedly ONLY on winding mountain roads -- it doesn't happen when driving very slowly on mountain roads and never on straight roads. (By the way, I don't have any artificial braking when this happens. I only have limp mode.) The warning/light can be removed (until the next time) by turning car off and restarting. The brake switch has been replaced (Mercedes part) and is new.

My diagnosis after reading some posts and watching youtubes is that the faulty part is either the lateral acceleration sensor or the yaw sensor. These are rather pricey parts, so I was hoping to use a capable scanner to tell me which is defective.

If I can't get a scanner capable of diagnosing these parts, roughly how much should an indy charge me to scan it and share the results with me? I live in the Los Angeles area.
Also, will the indy's scanner catch this code if the warning/light is not currently on?
Thanks for any help.

fabbrisd1

1st thing - ESP(ETS)/BAS/ABS at the same time with aggressive curve driving MIGHT be a symptom of a failing brake switch - $18 part - replace that 1st - use ONLY genuine MB part from legitimate source - auto parts stores like Autozone etc sell cheap China part - MB original part only - do a google search for how to install correctly which is easy after watching a video

benzgs

Fabbrisd1, it would be great if that was the problem. I guess you just missed it, but I mentioned that I already replaced the brake switch very recently (about a month ago) with a Mercedes part bought at a dealer. Since the symptoms that caused me to replace that brake switch (same as the current symptoms) occurred during mountain road driving also, I think everything seems to be pointing to the sensors I mentioned above.

Also, one thing I tested when this problem was happening repeatedly while coming down the mountain last weekend was the following. After turning the car off and back on to get rid of the warning lights and limp mode, I drove without using any brakes and all it took was going around a curve or two to set it off again. So the problem doesn't seem related to touching the brake pedal. Also, we only drive in the mountains for occasional weekend trips, and the problem only occurs when driving those winding roads.

Back to my latest questions, about how much would an indy charge to check (and share) the codes? And would their scanner pick up these codes if there are no dash warnings on currently?

Strigoi

We can't tell you how much an indy would charge for a scan. They all have different labor charges and minimums. Some might do it for free in hopes that you'll have them fix the car for you. You'll have to call around to find out.

It'd also help if you'd put your location in your profile.

khomer2

Perhaps, another faulty (new brake switch)? I has been know to happen.

Also, something perhaps to consider:
based on your comment, "This happens repeatedly ONLY on winding mountain roads...."

benzgs

Khomer2: I remember viewing this very recently, but thanks for prompting me to view it again. The main reason I've been focused on the lateral and yaw sensors is from another video where someone found that he got "mountain road" triggering of the lights and limp mode and that he fixed it with a new lateral acceleration sensor.

However, as the video that you linked suggests, there is a third sensor that I need to consider, but also he mentions the need to turn the steering wheel to its extremes after changing the battery. I did change the battery very recently. I did not do the steering reset, so perhaps that is playing some role (although I suspect the steering gets reset anyway without the lock-to-lock reset). Also, the car had some alignment issues when purchased a couple of years ago and required an alignment, so the steering wheel may not be exactly level -- I will need to check that.

Nevertheless, it remains that I need to get it scanned by an indy or someone with a scanner that's capable of detecting these sensors.

Strigoi: I gave my location above in post #4, when I first asked about indy prices, etc. I would edit my profile to include it, but this site also now demands my birthdate, which is private information that I'm not willing to give them and which can be used by unscrupulous people for identity theft or linking with other personal info that's out there. So I choose to just give my location out as needed.

fabbrisd1

1st things 1st - I would suggest a battery disconnect - KEY OUT OF IGNITION DISCONNECT - and wait 5-7 minutes then KEY OUT OF IGNITION ON BATTERY RECONNECT - then go thru setup procedures - Steering Angle Sensor - reset all Four Windows (or you will blow out window regulators sooner) - reset Sunroof - reactivate radio with Radio Code...

For grins - after that is done - turn off all climate control - turn off all electronics - then shut off ignition - then do ECU/TCM reset procedure which you can find with google search - which resets ECU/TCU to aggressive factory defaults - since you're messing with stuff a good time for you to learn to do this straightforward 3 minute procedure.

It's the "multiple/simultaneous" warning lights - and "mountain curves" that made the brake light switch suspect - and yes it is possible that install wasn't correct.

Yes - this can also be a sensor - but the only way you are going to be able to tell if it's a sensor is to have the stored codes ready by Star/Star-equivalent system - and if there is a stores code Star will even tell what sensor(s) are suspect - however Star will NOT tell you if this is a aggressive-brake/pedal/switch issue which is a no-code failure/conflict.

Good luck with it - I hear from your posts you are trying to do right by your Mercedes - and that why you're a "Mercedes enthusiast" and why this board is here !

Keep the beat !

benzgs

Thanks, fabbrisd1, for suggesting all the resets and for your thoughts on the problem. I'll definitely go through those resets (although maybe not the ECU/TCU reset, since my Significant Other drives the E320 with our 6-yr-old twins, and it's best if she doesn't suddenly get a tiger under the hood).

Haven't had any more problems to date, mainly since we haven't gone to the mountains since my original post. Although I'm keeping an open mind, I'm still tending to think it's probably not the brake light switch given the strong link to mountain roads -- also the brake lights are fine. I'm pretty sure that the switch rod on the brake light switch was fully extended before installing, so I think the installation was probably okay too (otherwise problems presumably would have surfaced right away after installation). When there's time, I'll look for an indy to scan for me and try to track down the guilty sensor (assuming it's a sensor).

James Sullo

Creator C502 Code Reader Full System Scanner for Mercedes Benz with OBDII EOBD CAN Engine Fault Scanner $80 on Amazon. I have a one for my BMW. Great tool for the money.

benzgs

I really need a scanner that has a 38-pin connector so I can read these less common faults and sensors on my W210. As far as I can tell, the Creator C502 doesn't have the 38-pin connector.

I looked at the two mentioned by Kajtek1, but as he implied, the iCarsoft doesn't work for the W210 (neither MBII or i980 work for W210), and it seems from my reading that the Maxiecu requires some fiddling and may be hard to actually purchase (from Poland I think), so it probably isn't something I have time for.

The Carsoft V12 Mercedes diagnostic system (from Belgium) has a 38-pin connector and does work on W210 they say. It requires a hookup to a PC with a serial port connector (so an old PC). I'm a Mac person, so I would have to dig up an old Powerbook and see if my Windows emulation still works on it. The system seems to cost about $200-$250 with shipping, or perhaps a bit more. This seems to be the closest solution I've seen so far for a lower-cost 38-pin scanner. There's a guy showing some windows of the software (but not after hooking to his car) on youtube. He wasn't exactly ecstatic about it.

Will keep looking, or else just punt and go find an indy who will scan for me for a reasonable price.

James Sullo

I had to re-read your OP and it seems you're looking for a scanner that does both MB and BMW!?
I must have missed that part. I own a 2000 w210 and my car does not have the 38 pin connector, but rather the OBDII port under the dash. As I recall, the 38 pin was found on older BMW models and maybe older MB's but not sure about the latter.
I'm going to focus on the MB scan tool and recommend getting the Creator from Amazon and TRY it! IF it doesn't get at the codes you want to scan, you can return it by simply telling Amazon the item "does not work as described" and you'll get a prepaid shipping label and a refund.
As for the BMW, if that car has the 38 pin connecter, then search the web or Youtube for a BMW scan tool that comes with the adaptor for the 38 pin connector.
I don't think you'll find an inexpensive tool that will do both the Benz and the Beermer.
I've had my E320 for 8 years and have been able to use a generic scan tool with it. The BMW I own is a 2009 328i xdrive and I did extensive research to find a budget scan tool. I bought an iCarsoft BMW V2 scanner from Amazon which was $145 and that seemed to get deep into the BMW specific codes and I was able to reprogram the new battery as well. I returned that scanner because it came loaded with V1 the link provided for the V2 update wouldn't work and the seller was no help. In it's place I picked up a Creator 110 which is BMW specific and while it's a tad slow, it lets me access everything I need to monitor, diagnose and clear my BMW codes. I paid $40 for that one and am totally pleased with it.
I hope this helps you out!
I hope this helps you. I totally get it when it comes to accessing German car's specific codes to facilitate diagnostic and repairs.

kajtek1

SInce I posted my reply, a UK member show us that MaxiEcu made model designated for W210. They sell it with 38-pins in the package, but UK price is double what it cost in Poland.
I have seen them also on US ebay, but seller with unknown reputation.
Today almost any reputable seller allows for no-hassle returns and I used it on 2 scanners already.
It just gets annoying that you put your money, spend the time (and advanced functions are pretty slow) only to find that scanner does not support the module you want to troubleshoot.

James Sullo