HID, fog lights, headlight install guide 211 E series may work on other series models
 

:) Ok for those of us who did not listen to reason and decided to go cheap when it came time to look in the HID world for lighting or for those of us who are less fortunate and purchased a system for more than we should have and still ran into problems here is a little help. It may not help everyone since there are quite a few different systems made. Please use common sense when attempting this project. You should know your own limits as to how far you can work on your own car. If in doubt ask for help. Your results will vary depending on the system you purchase. Do not assume that these systems will not void part of your Mercedes warranty whether installed correctly or incorrectly.

I'm not that good at using the editor here and inserting pictures so if its a little hard to read or navigate just go to the web page I set up detailing the steps click here



From the research I have gathered I found out one could purchase these systems from ebay for as little as $80.00 and up to $380 for a H7 kit. There was a ton of claims from these sellers of which I found out many were just outright lies to sell their kits.
It is also possible that these sellers just never had their kits installed in a Mercedes. Fortunately I found out one way to make many of these systems work on our cars.

After the short amount of research I pick one of the cheap kits ($120) and found out what many of you already found out. These systems have flaws or won’t even work with the Mercedes electronics when installed as per instructions. Some of the cheap kits don't even have instructions!

If you are fortunate enough to pick one of the better systems, you will not have any issues after your install.


First raise the car to gain access to the splash shield behind the front bumper. Remove the 8 – 8mm headed bolts and pull off the front splash shield.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...sengerside.jpg Note I have both the ballast for the headlight and the foglight installed already.

You will find plenty of room to gain access to the fog light bulbs and room to install the ballast for both the headlights and fog lights. The fog light bulbs are easy to remove just turn counter clockwise about 1/8 of a turn and pull. Check to see if you have the correct bulb in your kit.

Attachment 385664

This is the back of the fog light with the bulb removed.

Attachment 385665 Passenger foglight ballast installed on radiator support.

Attachment 385666

Area under the driver's headlight

Attachment 385667

Same side with ballast installed for both the headlight and foglight.

I found that on the 211 there was a nice spot on the radiator core support to mount the ballast and still be close enough for the leads to reach the headlight housings. I used the existing bolt that was there. You want to keep these away from the engine compartment as…

Note the Brown wire is the Ground wire (negative lead) from you head light lead. this is where the cheap systems meet the really cheap systems as some of the realy cheap systems have just a bare terminal for you to insert into your headlight plug. Use some dielectric grease here to keep water out.


First thing is do not use the Daytime running
lights either the one on the headlight control
or in the main control on the dash. If you still
have this problem or have a flicker that
happens on occasion that just drives you
crazy try this next step.
Attachment 385668

Attachment 385669

Attachment 385670


To keep things simple I used heat shrink and wire taps to install these onto the wires
leading to the Ballast.

On this capacitor the Ground wire is the one where the arrow is pointing to. Warning:
Do not install the Capacitor backwards as it may get hot and it is possible for them to explode. After running the lights for a while check the capacitors they should not be hot. If they are, please re-check your wiring, routing, and connections.



Here is a diagram I was sent from one of the members 'No_Clue' (thanks Richard) since my Photoshop is currently not working.

Attachment 385671

Install the capacitor in between the factory
headlight plug and HID Ballast.

Attachment 385672

The capacitor installed
on the wires leading to
the Ballast



When aiming your fog lights pull up twenty to thirty feet from
a wall on level ground and adjust you lights.

DO NOT ALLOW YOUR LIGHTS TO SHINE HIGHER THAN
THE HEIGHT OF YOUR BULBS!!!

Otherwise you will be blinding everyone!

http://www.lifeandhealthplans.com/im...ght_circle.JPG

Use a long Phillips screwdriver here to adjust your fog lights


After removing the back cover for the headlight case ...

Remove the headlight bulbs turn counter clockwise when looking at the back of the connector about a 1/8 turn and pull

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...nenginebay.jpg

It should look like this. Use a small blade screw driver to remove the connector.
Save the metal retaining clip and do not allow it to fall into the engine compartment!

Attachment 385673

Bulb on the left is the HID in the plastic container. Leave it in there as long as
possible to keep any oils (like the natural oils on your hands) off of it.

Attachment 385674

Take note to see how the retaining clip was clocked or phased on the old bulb.
Remove the old retaining clip and install on your new bulb.

Attachment 385675

This will be a pain to put on and you will most likely need to cut off the dust plug
(big round plug on some of the wires these kits have) to install. Note you should
not need to cut or damage any part of the wires or ends. Again be careful not to
touch the bulb. If you think the bulb touch anything you can dip the bulb in some
rubbing alcohol.

Attachment 385676

On the drivers side there is a small screw that holds the coolant reservoir in. Be
careful removing it because it will disappear if you let it. Make sure the coolant is
cool before doing this step. Pull up and move the tank to one side so you have
room to work on the driver's headlight.

Attachment 385677

If you require the capacitors install them now on the power leads to the Ballast.

Plug in the wires.

Now look at the inside of your engine compartment the inside of your headlight will look
like this in time of you let dirt and dust in there. I recommend notching a slot into the back
cover or drilling a hole to allow the wires to pass thru the headlight
housing. Reinstall the cover. This will keep dust and moisture out of the headlight
assembly. Reinstall the other components.

Adjust the Headlights if necessary on level ground. Noting not to aim them higher
than the headlight itself.

If you have problems and all the connections are rechecked especially if the
problem is just with one light you may have a problem with the product itself. Check
with seller's troubleshooting list as you may have a problem with a bulb or Ballast.



Please use this information at your own risk and please use common sense when working on your own car. I do not teach or publish books and this was just to help out a few friends who were to far away for me too work on their cars.


If you have questions or have some input you can always PM or email me at

healthservices@cox.net

I can also update any changes to the install on this webpage.

Flame suit on...

I have 2003 E320.
The capacitor works perfectly!!!!

Because of this mod, I have been driving so much at night for last weeks just want to make sure everything works fine.

The best of all, I can go back to halogen bulb any time I want. (nope, not exactly I want to do that, but knowing the alternative makes me feel better)

I have the capacitor mod for one week, been driving every night for long time. (hell...this is my first HID and I love it) NOT a single time, it gives me flicker or error msg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great write up! Thanks! I'm seriously considering buying this kit off ebay but theres one thing holding me back. How bad do the headlights flicker? How about with the capacitor?

I for one can speak for the mod also.
NO flickers!!!! NO error message!!!! And only $10 :)

Alan has the 2005 model. I have the 2003 model. Both car works fine!!!!!

p.s. the kit I bought is only $133 shipped. NOT expensive one!!!!!!!

Awesome DIY.....very detailed!!! Thanks HS!!! :y This should be stickied!

HS and NC - would you be able to take a photo of your beam layout so that
we can see how well defined the light is....say, a photo of beam against the
wall, as well as one in dark parking lot/street showing beam on the pavement?
i'd like to see how the HID bulb (presumably D2S) function within your respectivve
H7/H11 based projectors. Great write up guys. tnx for taking the lead and
being the guinea pigs on this.

Ray~ Will do that just for you! :)

Here is the HID mod photo taking under 1/50 seconds shutter speed ( similar to human eye under dark enviroment ) and F3.2 ( this is from what human eyes "average" when encounter sudden light changes.
Also head light aiming height has NOT been changed!!!
..

http://home.comcast.net/~richard.bellevue/15feet.JPG
..
..
Here is 50 feed away, where light heigh has down to 1 foot
http://home.comcast.net/~richard.bellevue/50feet.JPG
..
..
Here is 65 feed away, where light heigh has down to the floor.
( you can see the comparison with the ML park closed to it)
http://home.comcast.net/~richard.bellevue/65feet.JPG
..

IF and ONLY if the OEM height setting has not been altered!!!!!!

HID kit produce very little glare.

(photo taken under 1/30 speed and F11 - Similar to human eye when looking directly to incoming traffic at night time)

Photo taken a approximately 4 Feet height from the floor. ( simulate driver seat)

..
http://home.comcast.net/~richard.bel...0feetfront.JPG

P.S., I am using 4300K kit. For pure performance, not for the color effect.

:y Those are very good pictures I tried to do the same pics but I have a cheap camera that will not take good pictures at night. I either need a good tripod or a steady hand for it to work at night and I have neither.

Apt's underground parking is very good enviroment that simulate night driving w/ "ceiling light".

And I like the 4300K kit...more OEM looks than after market. :)

Maybe it is me, but I kind of think W211's headlight OEM height seems to be bit low.... But I will leave it as is for now.

Compared to conventional lighting it does appear low. At least that's the way projectors tend to work. Because the projector is so precise (at least compared to conventional lighting) and intense in the cut off point any light above that cut off line appears very dim.

since the fog light are reflector-type, I am still hesitate to do the upgrade.
( it might produce way too much glare for incoming traffic? )

I have not had anyone flash me yet and I leave mine aimed low. It makes it incredibly bright just in front of me. Yet each time time I try to take a photo it shows a lot of glare that I don't see in real life. Maybe in the wet there is a reflection in the asphalt that may blind someone, but I don't remember the light pattern the fogs gave out in the rain. It will be a while before it will rain here again.

Thank you, I think I got my idea of putting the HID in the fogs from you.

The flicker is just about non existent with the capacitor about one flick every 8-12 minutes and even then I think it is a problem with one of my ballast and not with the capacitor itself as it is almost always with the left fog light. Remember I bought a very cheap system. Ask 'W211 Ryda' if he has any flicker problem as he bought a system that is a little more expensive.

tnx again guys. i PDFed this for reference and saved into my MB/HID folder !!
good stuff!! r-

I know human eyes are very complex w/ max 72fps or average 62fps reception. (hence day light setting for 1/60, and 1/30 for the evening to simulate night driving)

As for the aperture, human's iris opens and shuts at approximately 4 stops, or a ratio of 16:1. This equivalent to the ASA range of the eye F16.

So, if you can set your digital camera at 1/60 shutter speed w/ F16 for day light and approximately 1/30 and F11 for the night. (make sure you do not have polarized filter on)

(this setting should best represent average people who has non or minimal astigmatism)

One thing I never got into was photography and I really wish I did get more into it. All I got is a point and shoot and never knew there was anything you could adjust on these.:confused:

I'll have to borrow my sisters one day. I think I’ll be just as confused with that one with all the adjustments on it.
:smash:

You've done a really nice job! :zoom:

Best write up ever!

Thanks to Mr. Vanos, now this is Sticky :)

Great info!!! Thanks

health services I just wanted to thank you again for this write up and the info on the capacitor mod. :y

I installed a cheap HID kit off ebay ($103) I was getting horrible flickering as depicted in health service's video. I then did the capacitor mod and they have been working absolutely FLAWLESSLY since. No bulb out warnings, no flickering or anything.

Theres no way I would ever spend the cash for one of the more expensive kits. I think Im going to take the money I saved and buy HID fogs :D

used the capacitor that was recommended and my install went without a hitch! thanks!

HID, fog lights, headlight install guide 211 E series may work on other series models
 

I found your page and found it to be useful and followed the instructions like you said but it's not fooling the warning system. So it stops sending any kind of power to the harness. Is there anything else you recommend trying (at my own risk of course). I really hate to get rid of these lights.
Oh and it's a 2003 E320 W211.