W211 DIY oil change
 

Over the years, I've received a couple PMs regarding how to change the oil on our W211s and since there is a DIY brake job thread, might as well post a DIY oil change. Now this is based on an E320, so there may be slight differences with the 350, 500, 550 motors. My instructions are based on draining the oil via the oil drain plug. Another common method is to suck the oil with the use of a topsider, which I don't have instructions for. Let me know if I overlooked anything on my DIY. :y


BTW: I’m starting to leak transmission fluid all around the transmission oil pan. So it looks like a tranny fluid and filter will be my next DIY. Depends on how easy that’ll be. :wall:



Parts:

-8.5 quarts of 0W-40 oil (Mobile 1 preferred)
-Oil filter (I use Mann Filters )
-Copper oil drain plug washer


Tools:
-Floor jack, scissor jack, or drive up ramps (either one will work)
-Drain pan
-13mm wrench or socket (for oil drain plug)
-8mm socket (for skid plate removal)
-Rathchet and extension
-Oil filter cap

Instructions:

1) Warm up engine until you reach normal operating temperature then shut off engine.

2) Jack up front end of vehicle. There are jack points to the rear of the front wheels (right below the side skirts) OR there is 1 middle jack point under the car towards the front.
Attachment 385165
Attachment 385166

3) Using the 8mm socket, unscrew the 6 screws to remove the #3 skid plate.
Here are 2 of the 6 screws.
Attachment 385167
skid plate removed and screw locations
Attachment 385168


4) Using the 13mm wrench or socket, unscrew the oil drain plug and drain the oil.
Oil drain plug on E320
Attachment 385169
drain plug
Attachment 385170


5) While the oil is still draining, unscrew the oil filler cap and oil filter. (More oil will drain out as you release the pressure in lubrication system.)
Attachment 385171
Oil filter cap
Attachment 385172
Attachment 385173


6) Pull the oil filter element and the 4 rubber "O" rings off the oil filter assembly.

7) Install the 4 new "O" rings and new oil filter element and re-install oil filter assembly.
https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y2...002-132846.jpg
Attachment 385174
Attachment 385175

8) Install new copper oil drain plug gasket and drain plug back onto oil pan. (do NOT over tighten or you're majorly screwed:smash:!!!!)

9) Pour 8.5 quarts of 0W-40 into oil fill hole then screw oil filler cap.

9) Start the engine and let motor reach normal operating temperature. Check for leaks at oil filter and drain plug. Turn off engine and re-install #3 skid plate. Make sure you tuck #3 skid plate under #2 skid plate.(do NOT over tighten screws)
Attachment 385176

10) Lower car back down then check engine oil level via FSS on dashboard (see owner’s manual for instructions) or dipstick.

11) Go out for a cruise and enjoy! You just saved a couple of $$$:y

Just curious, is that skid plate metal or plastic??

duno why... it looks like plastic for me.....

Thanks for doing this!!

Do you know how to reset the comp?

Thanks in advance!

Great DIY guide. Thanks for taking the time to put this together, Ryda.

Thanks for posting this great info...:y

great info pare! Thanks!

Sticky Please! :y


Good job, Jeff. Thanks for taking the time. I always just throw 120.00 at the dealer because I've been too lazy. But now, I just might save my money. This looks pretty simple.

Why wouldn't it be simple, esp. with the oil filter on top? To add to simple, one could suck out the oil, and have no need to get under the car. There is a whole write-up on extracting vs. draining.

To the OP - thanks for the detailed write-up. Great pics. and instructions. As stated above, procedures to reset the FSS would complete the project IMO. Thanks again, should be a sticky.

Thanks for the great writeup! My complimentary manteinance is ending in May, so its gonna be DIY for me pretty soon. Thanks

Thanks from me, too!

I know the answers to some of the above questions. The skid plate is plastic (so it's really not a skid plate, more of a splash guard). The reset of the FSS according to something I read a few days ago involves the + and - buttons on the steering wheel, then pushing the reset button for 5 seconds (looks like a reset button on American car's odometer and located to the left of the clock), and then scrolling throught the menu (the symbol is the 2 sheets of paper) button on the steering wheel).

Someone else mentioned that one may get the "too much oil" message if they use 8.5 quarts of oil since there may be 2-3 oz. still in the car after draining. Perhaps, one may put 8.4 quarts of oil instead. 0.1 quart short is not going to damage the engine.

Thanks
 

I did not find this site or post until after I changed my oil. I try to never pay anyone to do anything, if I did we would be limited in toy quantity. I bought this car and figured how hard could it be? The oil change on the 4matic was easy and quite civilized. The filter on the top makes for a very clean oil change I now see why factory guys where lab coats, its so clean. My only change for the next one will be using a splash guard to direct the old oil off the framework and into the pan, on the 4matic it shoots onto the frame. The airfilter was the best design ever with no possibility of dirt bypassing, just grab a hold of the whole aircleaner housing give it a little tug and install new filters on the workbench, again quite civilized. The cabin filter was a piece of cake too. This car is so easy to work on. The reset procedure for the computer is in your owners manual in the back. You turn on your ignition, scroll on the wheel to the appropriate section, hold the reset buton for 5 seconds, scroll to the service acknowledge section hit O.K. and its done, it recalibrates everything. I dont agree with the oil change intervals but thats just me and I will change more often. Oil is cheap and what ruins oil is particles, ie dirt. I know the fleece filter is good but oil is cheap and I beat the hell out of everything I touch so I change a little more often, just me.

Nice write up! Thanks! :y

gnma ... in response to your question.

some of the dealers will actually extract versus drain depending on the mechanic (as I found out with MB of Manhattan).

I went to the trouble of buying an extractor and going through the process on the streets of Brooklyn! with the extractor .. you still leave a quart of oil in the system... for me, the next time I will drain the system from the bottom.. I want to make sure that I get as much as the crud from the bottom of the pan as possible. (on my last dealer change.. I asked specifically to have the oil drained instead of over head extraction)

w211ryda.. great write-up ... I had been warned that the oil drain plug was quite large on the MB and that it would drain out fast and hard ...not something that I would look forward to with hot oil and a plastic pan that wasn't super big... I figured that I would do a hybrid change next time.. extract and then drain the last bit from the bottom...

Though MB do my scheduled oil changes (by the draining method), I use the extract method to do mid-mileage (5000 miles) oil changes on my Bluetec. I am able to extract all of 9-quarts by placing the car on a slope. The last few ounces take some time and patience to extract. No extra effort really since I use the compressor driven extractor which has a capacity of 9L; I let it run for 45 minutes.

I let the extracted oil sit in the extractor for a few days to check for residue at the bottom. So far I have not seen any. I then pour the oil into the 9 empty quart containers prior to proper disposal at the township.

pinebaron..

you clearly have a garage!!!! (I would do the same thing if I had one too!!)

what kind of mileage to you get with your car? is it quick?

I wish that they would put that engine in the wagon.

I am now averaging close to 34 mpg doing 70/30 highway/rural (a slight improvement from since I last reported before installation of the rear lip spoiler). I am heading close to 19000 miles from new since last July.

Quick? It is amazingly quick but the key thing is it is amazingly quiet even when you floor it since the diesel engine is inherently a high torque/low rpm engine; instant gratification.

Thank you for the excellent write-up. It's owner support like this that make these cars all the more enjoyable. I also have an Audi A4 and there isn't anything that needs to be done on that car that somebody hasen't documented.

Good write up wish I would have had it before I did my first oil chg on the E500.

Note:9) Pour 8.5 quarts of 0W-40 into oil fill hole then screw oil filler cap.


I thought it was 8 qts?:confused:

Mine says 8.5.

It looks like it is just the 13 pin connector leaking not the transmission pan.
Part is less then $20, and easy enough to replace.
When you remove the oil through the dipstick tube, you do get all the oil out. I have replaced enough oil level sensors to know that.
I have a little manual pump I use at home, works ok just takes along time.

320 - 8.5, 500 - 8.

Good writeup. :y

Where can I get those blue gloves? :D

Great write-up! Thanks... makes life much easier. I've got the E320 (its not a 4matic but it is problematic :rolf: ) on jack stands as I type this and I'm letting the oil drain.

52k... no more $175 oil changes.

I purchased the "shop tool" dipstick on- line from an automotive tool supplier.
I cannot say for certain that it is an M-B part. It has graduated marks on both the top and bottom of the stick (looks like mm), plastic spacers at about 6" intervals along the 1/4" wide ribbon, and an o- ring seal at the top. I read somewhere that you have to twist them as you insert the stick into the dipstick tube. Mine comes no where close to going in. No oil on the tip (grey plastic). I do not want to damage either the tool or the motor. Anyone have any experience? :confused:

I also bought the tranny shop tool and it is a coil spring. I have not tried it yet. At least it has low and full marked for hot and cold.

I used the MB tool in the crankcase by checking after an oil change. Then marking the stick for the full mark. It was easy to go in with the coil spring no o-rings to contend with.