aa240sx

I did some digging to get this point, but now not sure how to approach this issue. First, I have a 2004 E320 Estate Wagon. It has a tailgate that is not power operated. However, and I think this is standard on all wagons, it does have a tailgate pulling mechanism feature so you don't have to slam the tailgate to close it. Basically, once you lower the tailgate and let it click into the locking mechanism gently, the mechanism will finish the job and pull the tailgate to fully close and lock it.

So, I took off the lower plastic piece of the tailgate to reveal the lock mechanism. It's got two wires coming off it. One is red and is the manual cable that goes to the tailgate handles (both inside and outside). The other is a wire loom which I presume powers it. There is at least 10 wires in this loom. The unit is held in place by three torx bolts and will come out of the tailgate through the bottom opening with some gentle force applied.

So, I fiddled with the lock itself and saw that it's a pretty simple affair. If you take a screwdriver and rock this cam device gently, it activates a motor. I can hear this motor when I hit this cam. If you rock this cam with greater force, you don't hear the motor. Obviously, this equates to how much pressure you place on the tailgate will determine whether the locking motor will be used to pull it in.

The part that frustrates me is when I finally got to look at the unit (part number A211 740 01 36), it looks as if it's non-serviceable. There's some other markings as well such as 223/03 0043042 and a label marked 'HUF'. There's basically this plastic black box and surrounding it is an equally sized metal cover.

I'm hesitant to open this since there's no obvious way to open it and was wondering if anyone has had any experience servicing or working on this part of their wagon?

I tried searching for this issue, but didn't really come across anything too useful other than a lot of topics covering the rear security cover and the power tailgate open/close feature.

Thanks for any input on this frustrating matter.

gabbypig

I had my latch replaced once under warranty a couple years ago and now it seems to be "iffy" again.

aa240sx

Mine started out with no issues, then it stopped altogether, came back and now doesn't work at all. However, the motor in the mechanism does make a sound. I'm certain if I could break open this unit, it's either a loose spring or a sticking device that won't activate the cam and pull it in. Quite frustrating since it's looking like I'll have to buy a new unit.

DN-BigBrother

Hi aa240sx

I have the same issue......did you get a sollution for your problem?

BB:-)

gabbypig

This is a known issue with the wagon locks. You need to replace the entire lock mechanism. It is not difficult, just take your time. Parts.com had the best price when I did this about 6 months ago.

Part number was 1647400635 and price was $208 + shipping.

This was the second time this part was replaced on my 2004 wagon. First time was covered under warranty.

Good luck.

- Gabbypig

DN-BigBrother

Thank you

NorseWagon

No problems so far, but I got the power lift/lower mechanism.
Perhaps the same for the final few inches as the OP.?

On my wagon with the whole power lift I am afraid the thingy will break one day..Seems heavy/expensive and not something I wan't to replace the day before I sell the car.

Never noticed if it has a little "pull tight" motor on the floor/rear end.

aa240sx

Thread revival! Not sure but a combination of laziness and not having thread subscription checked as an option kept me from ever tackling this job... until today. So, one question I had is does this job require the use of any special tools?

konigstiger

No, I can send instructions if you want, PM email address.

aa240sx

Konigstiger - only took another year and some months and over 3 years since I started this thread but being a family man will do that to you I guess...

Anyway PM sent!

Rui Santos

The plastic housing on the closing mechanism, part nš A 211 740 00 36, is removable! Itīs high frequency soldered. Pry into the joining line with a blunt knife-like instrument. Do not force intrusion into the housing because it has a fitting lip all around. Also, use leverage with the metal housing until the various plastic solder points all around the housing have been broken. They look like melted plastic mesh. Open the housing. Nothing will fall out. Look at the two springs. Keep track of their positions. Almost all the white plastic mechanism cogs are removable. Do not force anything aside! There are two 24 mm diameter compact Johnson Electric 12 V motors with different cogs. On mine, the one with the standard toothed cog was worn out. It actuates the commutation between opening and closing. The other with the corkscrew cog moves the power latch for closing. Take it out to familiarize yourself with itīs geometry in order to see what you can expect. It just lifts out. The faulty motor incorporates a contacts plate, but I pried towards up and inside to take it out. Both motors have female contacts. I took apart the faulty motor and reconstructed the collector contacts assembly with stuff from my workshop. Do not force the motor shaft towards the sharp inserts inside the closed metal housing, you will cut the spooled wires! But itīs a short-term fix until I can find a compatible motor! Use 2 large plastic zip lock bands to keep the plastic housing reassembled, placing them longways with the car body. Anything else, just ask.

casman

Is it possible to bypass the latch motor from the tailgate control module. It seems to me that all this motor does is gently pull in the tailgate....but if the motor assembly fails, the control module assumes the tailgate is open. I checked on the service manual and everything is connected to this module, wiper, locking solenoid etc......

Has anyone attempted to bypass this annoying latch motor??? This will forever solve the silly latch failing problem!!????!

It should be straight forward....except there are 10 wires that go from the c2 connector on the module to the latch motor......Which ones need to be jumped???

thomas.angel

Can u please help me With this information aswel?


I live in Norway, and here EVERY thing is far far to expensive to fix in a merc shop.....

thomas.angel

Did you take some snap shots of this fix?

importfan21

Bumping this. I have this same issue and my indy mechanic says I need the new latch ($500 job, parts/labor). I figured since the latch is only $200, I can shave a few bones off.

Anyone have some pics/steps? I'd rather not just start prying into covers and whatnot. Don't want to break any clips.

konigstiger

Try this.

importfan21

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for!

I *think* I can get get away with just disconnecting the cables to the latch after removing those 9 expanding clips on the lower paneling, right? Seems odd to have to remove the handles and other linings too.

DPinTO

Bumping this. I have a 2004 E320 Wagon with power tailgate. The power tailgate works in that it raises and lowers tailgate, but the tailgate will not lock.

I have read this thread and others and believe that I need to replace the actuator which looks like a DIY. I just wanted to get input that the actuator is the likely culprit as I also saw in drawings posted by Konistiger that there is also a motor that is separate and apart from the actuator.

Thanks.
DP

importfan21

If it doesn't lock, it's the latch unit as discussed above. You should also be able pull the hatch open after it has shut and supposedly locked to confirm this.

In my case, I needed a new latch and a new handle. After I replaced the latch, it locked but I could open the hatch even after it's locked and that mechanism is in the handle.

DPinTO

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, i can definitely pull the hatch open. I should have been clearer in my original post, when I said it will not lock, I meant that it will not stay closed. The locking mechanism does not seem to engage when the latch hits the strike plate.

importfan21

I understood what you meant. I was merely providing a "test" for you to do to confirm it was the latch that needed e replacing.

Pretty easy fix. Good luck!

biltong57

Has anybody managed to source a replacement motor (the one with the corkscrew cog on it)?

mightar

I was just hit by this. I just had my indy do it, but it was still very helpful and the price of the part hasn't gone up that much. Thanks for this thread OP!

tripwalking

I've been wanting to fix the latch for a while... I'm on hold with six callers ahead, so I found this thread .
Here's another link I found which may be helpful: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211...-actuator.html I know it's for the driver door, but the motor may be the same? I'm not sure about that.

tripwalking

My hatch latch will no longer hold the hatch closed. I have the latch mechanism out, and even got part of the metal case away from the internals, but I don't see anything obviously wrong. If I close the latch with a screwdriver, it will stay closed but then I can defeat the latch by pulling the screwdriver out the same way it went in with just a little force.
The pulling feature was not working when I initially took the latch out of the car, then it worked for a bit, now it's not working again.

Mechanic quoted C$500 for the latch.