2007 e320 oil blow by help
 

I purchased a 2007 e320 bluetech a couple months ago. The dealer who sold it had replaced the oil seal (standard problem I guess). A week ago I got the P2015 swirl motor code. I have now installed the resistor to bypass the feedback. I lost the turbo inlet gasket and have one on order. I took the car for a drive to see if the code would clear and the turbo would start working. The P2015 code has cleared, but I get a bunch of other codes like turbo boost lower than expected and others that would be expected with the intake off.

Problem is I'm getting a significant amount of oil blowing out the PCV valve line. It seems to be under higher pressure than I would expect. Now the car won't run. It's currently on the side of the road. What did I do???????

I'm a long way from a dealer in Central Wisconsin. The tow bill would be $1000 just to get it to the mechanic.

Well if you dont have that turbo inlet seal on, then pressure isn't met.... install that seal and see what happens.

Is it looking to create pressure at the turbo inlet? I though it was controlling crank case ventilation. The sensor says vacuum control. As in keep it from pulling too much vacuum. I wish there was a schematic of that system and all the sensors.

If you don't have that turbo inlet seal installed you are pissing in the wind. PCV, vacuum, turbo psi values are all irrelevant if you dont have a turbo inlet seal installed, your "ME" is freaking out because it sees you arent building enough pressure for boost, causing a bunch of other malfunctions. Install the seal, and then ask questions. If you fixed the swirl code and lost the seal and now its runny crappy that tells you right there how important the seal is. When will your new seal get here? That stinks you lost it... Been there done that!

Well that actually sounds reassuring. I was thinking with that much flow it must be cylinder blow by. The seal is supposed to get in tomorrow. I was such a dumb a$$. I wanted to quick check out if the resistor cleared the p2015 code. It did and the car drove (without turbo and lots of other codes) but I left the seal somewhere and it fell off.

Thanks for your help. We'll see if I can get it home tonight. Then wait for the seal.

IDK where you left the seal but the car has those under body panels that like to catch things.
Also I would try not to drive the car don't want something stupid to happen.

Be glad you have the oil cooler done I did it myself and it was hell!

well bad has gone to worse. I had to move it off the street. So I jerry rigged a seal around the turbo inlet. The pressure from the pressure valve got so high it blew oil out the dip stick and blew the cap off. What the h3ll is causing that much pressure in the crank case????

TURBO haha

I'm having a little trouble picturing what you did but... Blowby is normal in all engines. If you do anything that blocks it's vent path, it will build enough pressure to blow all kinds of things. If your engine was worn enough to have serious blowby issues, you would notice things like hard starts when cold.

What is the PN of the part you lost? And explain what you jerry rigged.

The part I lost is: Turbo Air Intake-Connector Tube Gasket 642 094 00 80. I put some gasket material around the turbo inlet so it would seal.

I now ordered a new Crankcase Vent Valve Part #: W0133-1977304.

When the car is running there is a lot of air coming out the crankcase vent tube. It blows oil everywhere. I don't know what the pressure in the crankcase should be, but mine is at least 20 psi.

Car was starting and running great. I was driving it back and forth to work (65 miles each way). This is all of a sudden. I suspect that the car was blowing oil into the intake all along though and that caused the swirl motor issue in the first place.

Is there something in the engine that feeds air into the motor crank case? It's amost like a fan is blowing the air out of the vent tube.

I also replaced the air filters. they were really disgusting. Never seen air filters that bad.

If it helps, I've been getting 33-34 mpg, so seems like it was working ok. Oil level was not going down significantly.

Now it blew prety much all the oil out.

Chris, I don't know where you purchased the car but if you only had it a couple of months why haven't you taken it back??? I wouldn't move the car, have it towed, and find out who/why the seal was replaced before (experienced mechanic), and hopefully you had a PPI on the car and it was listed.

Burgca the car was purchased from a dealer in Minnesota and I doubt there is any legal recourse I have. In Wisconsin I might have some because they have to inspect it. Minnesota dealers sell the car as is. I honestly don't think he knew about this issue. The seal seamed to be done right.

After sleeping on it I think cmriv's comment actually makes sense. If seal went in turbo it could blow exhaust into the oil line.

Definitely towing anywhere I go.

What's a turbo rebuild $2000?

NO! haha, When i said turbo, i was referring to what it is that produces that much pressure. You don't need a turbo, you need that seal, your turbo is fine. The reason oil is being pressured so much through the system is because that seal isn't there to "seal" the forced induction system, so your turbo thinks it's not producing enough psi which in reality it is, but it thinks its not because your seal isn't there. The turbo is trying to compensate for the lack of pressure your seal isn't producing if that makes any sense. In laymans terms your boost pressure is wowzers right now because that seal isn't installed. I'm confident your turbo is perfectly fine. :p:

But the high pressure is in the crankcase. The seal is on the inlet of the turbo. Everything down stream of the turbo is still installed.

Anyone know where I can find any diagrams or shop manual for this car? I could probably fix the thing if I could find any info. First and probably last MB I will own.

can you post a picture of this pcv line?

So I pulled the turbo off (what a pain) and it appears the baring in the intake side is shot. I could post a video - if I figure out how to. If I wiggle the end of the turbine it moves over 1/4". To me that seems really excessive. So there is a shop in Eau Claire that has rebuilt these for delivery trucks. No idea how much that will cost.

While I have it off, I looked at the swirl vains they move freely. Is it worth changing the swirl motor, or should I just leave it? From other threads it looks like that isn't really needed.

Dang, so you do need a turbo :eek:. Sorry to hear that. Yes that turbine end shaft play is way to excessive. I'd see if you could find a junkyard diesel motor turbo before overhauling your existing turbo but that's my personal opinion.

You already disabled the swirl motor you don't have to worry about it just make sure the spring is still holding it open and the resistor/connector is in a safe place.
As for the video just put it on youtube and link it.

Surprised that it has that much play and yes it is a PITA to do now imagine tacking off even more such as the intakes.

So I have a turbo off a different car that was working before it crashed. It appears to be in good shape. The blow by issue is resolved. I put in a resister to bypass the swirl motor. Car runs and does not blow oil all over.

I still have no power and the car is throwing a P2008 manifold runner code (says open bank) and P2015 code (out of range). I think this is the swirl mot or issue, but I don't know what I'm doing wrong. If I double up the resister would that still be in range?

I hate this car. Anyone want to buy a beautiful 2007 320E?

:confused:

If you think it may be the swirl motor (I can't remember the code for that) you could check the resistor you used and make sure it is correct as well as swapping it with another to verify it is not a defective one.