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Thanks guys, I've already checked both wires that lead to the relay for continuity and they seem to be good. I'm going to check the voltage regulator wires next. Maybe I'm grasping at straws here but what do you think the chances are that the previous owner could have fried the SAM by connecting the AUX battery backwards? Anyway to check a SAM with or without star equipment?
I think I found the culprit! You probably can't tell by the picture but the fuse on the right is blown. Now question is where do I buy that fuse from so I don't have to purchase the entire module, it's a p-32v 150 amp f2604.
It came out of a fuse box module so I doubt the dealer has it on hand separately. I believe I mentioned in one of my earlier posts that the person I bought it from said they took it to Advance to have the AUX battery changed and they hooked up the battery backwards. The AUX battery was still in backwards when I bought it and the terminal was completely melted off so I believed it. If this fixes the problem I'll post instructions on how to replace it.
Yea. I guess reversed battery, melted terminal explains blown 150 amp fuse.
I agree with your guess that dealer will rather sell you $1000 module, than $1.50 fuse, but you don't have many choices.
If you go into bypass, different fuse route, lot of inverters used in RV have those.
I just wanted to let everyone know the problem WAS caused by the 150 Amp Fuse inside the enclosed fuse box behind the passenger side foot well! It took me forever to think to check it because it wasn't visible like the 5 Amp fuses next to it. At least I didn't spend the $1000+ on a new BCM that the dealership wanted to install. The fuse I replaced it with was a Blue Sea Systems PN 5258, 2 come in a box from your local West Marine store for only $9 tax included.
Thanks guys! Just for future reference the fuse box that the 150 amp fuse was in on my 05 W211 is part # 2115461241 if anyone needs a visual. You can find the entire fuse box used for a pretty affordable price online but I went with the new fuse cause I was able to get it the same day locally.
Hallo, ich habe die gleichen Feiertage, hast du eine Lösung für das Problem gefunden
[QUOTE = seawind ؛ 6691671] لديّ E500 يحتوي على رسالة ورشة زيارة بطارية حمراء ، عندما يعطيني المسح الضوئي الكودان 9091 و 9051. إنه يعمل بشكل جيد ، البطارية لا تموت أبدًا ، يبدو أن جميع وظائف المستهلك تعمل. لقد حاولت:
1. مبادلة التتابع مع معروفة واحدة جيدة.
2. مبادلة وحدة التحكم في البطارية مع معروفة واحدة جيدة.
3. تبديل فتيل polyswitch مع معروفة واحدة جيدة.
4. كانت البطارية المساعدة سيئة لذلك أنا استبداله.
5. اختبار المولد سيء لذا قمت باستبداله بواحد من قطع غيار السيارات المتقدمة.
6. بعد مسح الرموز باستخدام جهاز كمبيوتر ، يعودون بعد بضع دورات قيادة.
7. جبهة ما قبل الصمامات F70 (بئر قدم الراكب) تبدو جيدة.
أنا نوع من الحيرة هنا: لا شىء:. ربما أحتاج إلى مولد بديل من شركة تصنيع المعدات الأصلية ، هل واجه أي شخص مشكلة في جهاز المولد المتقدم من شركة ToughOne عدم توصيل المعلومات الصحيحة إلى وحدة التحكم في البطارية؟
I just wanted to let everyone know the problem WAS caused by the 150 Amp Fuse inside the enclosed fuse box behind the passenger side foot well! It took me forever to think to check it because it wasn't visible like the 5 Amp fuses next to it. At least I didn't spend the $1000+ on a new BCM that the dealership wanted to install. The fuse I replaced it with was a Blue Sea Systems PN 5258, 2 come in a box from your local West Marine store for only $9 tax included.
Now on to fixing my adaptive headlamp problem...
bump^^^^^^^
The fuse box located on the passenger side foot panel? I have to pull the whole box?
Congratulations to Seawind for fixing the problem without letting the Stealership charge him $1000 to put in a new BCM that he didn't need. The diagnostic "skills" of these parts-replacers is just embarrassing.
This was a couple of years ago now, it worked fine for years, I never received the battery visit workshop message again but I have sold the vehicle. Yes it is in the passenger side foot well, on the left side closer to the center console, not the right side near the passenger door. Search eBay for part 2115461241 if you want to see a visual of the actual box so you'll know when you found it. If I remember correctly I took it all the way out cause that was easier then working on it inside the car. Only a few bolts/electrical connectors held it in. You wouldn't guess there is a 150 amp fuse inside it, it's covered by plastic unlike the smaller fuses on the same box.
And thanks wjcandee, took some time but so satisfying not to throw $1000 away to still have the problem.
Seawind: You can feel really good about that. Like when I pulled the front SAM and had a buddy fix my rear a/c problem by disassembling it and swapping out the (literally) $3 chip that is known to go bad. I paid him $100, which he was trying to refuse, but he had a hot air station and all sorts of fancy equipment to de-solder, etc., and put a good bit of time into making it pretty and perfect, so the $100 was a bargain. I don't even want to think about what the dealer would have charged to provide and swap the SAM, which is the kind of easy and expensive job they love. I think I did a very-neat job removing and reinstalling it, and my jeans still feel heavier for the money that's still in them!
This was a couple of years ago now, it worked fine for years, I never received the battery visit workshop message again but I have sold the vehicle. Yes it is in the passenger side foot well, on the left side closer to the center console, not the right side near the passenger door. Search eBay for part 2115461241 if you want to see a visual of the actual box so you'll know when you found it. If I remember correctly I took it all the way out cause that was easier then working on it inside the car. Only a few bolts/electrical connectors held it in. You wouldn't guess there is a 150 amp fuse inside it, it's covered by plastic unlike the smaller fuses on the same box.
And thanks wjcandee, took some time but so satisfying not to throw $1000 away to still have the problem.
ok I'll search it up and see. Were your seats working at the time of the dash light?
Here's where I'm at with my e500 the problem still isn't fixed yet....
Problem: battery drain
-replaced the alternator & battery *still drain* NOTE: replacement alternator is NOT oem Bosch but an autozone brand
-the car still running with the red screen
-took it to an auto electrician *found out the drain was coming from the passenger seat module*
-unplugged the 3 prong connectors to the seat module so the battery don't drain
-thinking back now to my passenger seat I did notice at once point my seat stopped working before the whole car when it ****s.
-At this point I know I will also need to replace the small aux battery as well because I know that is completely drained
So as of right now i bought a used seat module off ebay to fix the seat issue. Also I'm tempted to buy a new Bosch alternator because most forum members reccomend using OEM in case that way we will have the correct readings. Ofcourse the plan was to do all of that before I found your thread last night.
Do you have an idea why that part fuse would have blown? Also did you buy the whole replacement box?
*edit* I see what part you mean
Last edited by hellah fresh; 05-13-2020 at 06:45 AM.
If I remember correctly I don't think the seats were directly connected to the 150 fuse but the seats would stop working if the aux battery was to low. If you remove the black plastic covering on the fuse box to find the 150amp fuse inside, I think it was visually obvious that the fuse was blown but if it is not you can always do a continuity check with a volt meter. Here is a photo/information on the fuse I replaced it with, the fuse inside the box is the same amps, and almost the same dimensions, it worked perfectly: https://www.bluesea.com/products/525...Fuse_-_150_Amp.
I think the original cause of the 150 amp fuse blowing was someone hooking up the primary battery negative and positive cables incorrectly. Although the battery voltage was good, the terminals were discolored and missing small chunks out of them. I didn't want it to start leaking so I replaced it. I think it was an AutoZone battery, so maybe an employee or the previous owner made a mistake...
Ok I see what you mean. When I first had the car everything was working fine then as time went on my heated seats stopped working, then my automatic shocks went out. I replaced the shocks with coilovers but the heated seats still not working even tho all of the fuses were good (besides the one you pointed out). Both seat movements worked up until the passenger seat stopped moving. I hope this is the culprit of everything. I'm planning on tackling this car tomorrow so hopefully I can solve the problem.
You said your aux battery is completely drained. I would start there, get it charged, load test it, if you need a new aux battery get one. If your aux battery isn't working properly you won't know when you've fixed the root cause. Did both heated seats use to work? A bad or low aux battery can cause all kinds of problems, wouldn't surprise me if it would cause heated seat problems. Some cars won't allow you to turn the heated seats on if it is to hot outside, probably not your issue but now you know.
You can replace the whole fuse box in the passenger side foot well, looks like you can get them for $30-$70 used, I'm pretty sure there is no programmable module in it. I only replaced the fuse because I was able to purchase the fuse locally. I was so excited when I found it, I drove to the store and bought it immediately haha.
Lol I bet you was excited I haven't driven my car for over a year! I just ordered those fuses (6pc) off Amazon and I have them in hand. I didn't get a chance to work on the car yet. Yea I'm 100% sure the small aux battery is completely drained because if the seat module so I'm going to get a replacement for that. The heated seat issue happen way before the power drain. Like I notice the car slowly started going to ****s for instance a time line of the things I noticed before the initial battery drain.
-heated seats stopped working
-radio unit would randomly shut down and comeback on only to get stuck on the Mercedes logo screen, then shut down again and back on. I had to press the power-off button to stop it from coming on and off while I'm driving
-CD changer stopped ejecting cds, then after that the cd door stopped opening and closing. I would have to push it down or pull it up by hand to close or open.
-the cd changer door will shut but the motor will keep on turning and not stop. I had to pull the changer out and unplug the motor.
-the passenger seat function stop working. I can only move the seat back but not foward.
-then the infamous battery drain.
I hope the 150amp + aux battery + seat module will fix all of those things lol.
I had red battery warning and done all replacement parts mentioned, VR, BCM, aux & main battery, aux relay, & alternator...with no success. Finally an Indy shop suggested to change out the driver’s front SAM and that did the trick for my car. Good luck
I checked out the passenger side floorboard fuse box... it was good. No Blown fuses so I went ahead and replaced the good fuses with the new mdi fuse I bought. Hooked everything back up.. it still won't start.
I went n got a new aux battery.. still not starting. What I have noticed is that whenever i goto hook the trunk battery back up the trunk lights doesn't come on. Whenever that happens the car will just crack but will not turn over.
But at times when I hook the trunk battery back up and when the trunk light does turn on the car still start fine.
05-13-2016, 04:08 PM
