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This is a long awaited thread on the SBC pump for Mercedes W211 specifically my model was used the 2005 E320 CDI North American Version 211.026 the .026 is the sedan not the hatchback. Long story short dealer told me my SBC pump was going, and it was out of warranty going to cost around $2400 plus tax to get it done. Did not want to pay that so I did a ton of research and help through the forum and its members was able to get it all done myself. THIS CANNOT BE DONE WITHOUT A MERCEDES MULTIPLEXER putting that right out there. If you don't want to buy a Multiplexer then a computer in my case a Dell D630, then take it to the dealer this can not be done without it.
There are three types of multiplxers out there right now a C3, C4, and a C5. It is up to you to get what you want and need. The brand and version Multiplxer I bought was Super MB C3 Top Version with the Dell D630 HDD. I bought the Dell D630 separate from Ebay. If you choose to get the same version as me do not get the external HDD with VMware way to many bugs and problems. Google if you don't trust me.
Now that is all taken care of and you decided to purchase your Mercedes Multiplexer, now onto the pump. Buy your pump from a reputable source with VIN match, I got mine from EEuroparts. Now you have your Multiplexer and SBC pump. Now you need a motive pump for your model. That is because you will need to build brake pressure when you go to bleed the brakes since its an electronic brake system, then last fluid at least 3 quarts worth. I bought a 5 quart cheaper online from Amazon then buying three separate quarts. Then little things such as rags and gloves since brake fluid will drip everywhere.
Besides basic hand tools, jack, jack stand impact, torque wrench for tires, and the multiplexer, not much is really needed for this. Any DIY mechanic at home stuff.
Step one is jacking up the vehicle on all four and taking off all the tires. Not much needed for this.
Step two is to disable the SBC. This is done though your newly acquired computer/Multiplexer. As shown below.
Plug into OBD2
Mine plugged into the serial port the green on the left.
Load Up software Double Click Xentry
Wait for it to load takes a min.
Click Mercedes
Choose your model mine W211
.026 is sedan version
Click the button on the left and wait for it to load.
Press F2
Press F2
Ok now your loaded up, here is a video showing exactly what to press. Trying to keep this short as possible.
Now that your SBC is deactivated, you can take it apart. For me the whole unit came out with a 11mm line wrench and a 12mm wrench for the one line in the top right that was different then the rest. The plug was disconnected. Then it was held in with three grommets then just popped out.
Comes right out
This plug.
Step 3
Now to install the new SBC, you first have to remove the bracket from the old one its a tripod setup held in place with a 11mm bolt show in photos. Only fits in one way, lip over the black ball and the two tabs keep it in place.
Step 4. Install the new SBC, same way it came out with the line wrenches.
If you are having problems screwing the leads into the new pump. I recommended buying a small brake line that will screw into the SBC pump. I brought my old pump to a local auto parts store and bought a cheap brake line that was m10x1.0 this is to help clean up the threads if need be.
Step 5 now to activate and bleed the brakes of the new SBC.
Step 1 for activation
Step 2 for activation
Step 3 for activation
Do these three steps before hitting activate.
Just follow the instructions and there is no need for me to take photos the computer tells you to do everything.
Hook up your Motive bleeder and set it to 20 lbs as it says and go from there. I believe the brake line was a 3/8 tube and a 14mm wrench. This part is the same as any other with bleeding, hook up a clear tube to a reservoir.
Here is a great thread on bleeding basically the steps are the same, except my CDI did not have two valves in the front only one per wheel. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...id-change.html
Now that the pump is replaced, fluid is change, and is activated, the last thing to do is check to see if the new pump pedal count and acutations were reset back down to zero are as close to zero as possible. The number may not be zero since these parts are refurbished and tested according to Bosch so some variations will apply.
Step 1 For checking pump counter reset start with development data.
Step 2 For checking pump counter reset.
Step 3 For checking pump counter reset.
Step 4 For checking pump counter reset.
Results are that it is where it should be
Old SBC pump.
New SBC pump Results
No Malfunction so all is a success
After activating a message came on told me SBC pump cycle was reset and showed a number for 5000 out of 50 million before it was up to 10 million. I have checked to see if the pedal counter also was reset and it was as shown in photos. I will say the new pump is quiet, near silent and the pedal is a lot more firm. That may just be because the old system was not holding a charge at all.
A big thanks to Russell Ormerod and the rest of the forum for helping me out. If I find more information or if others have more feel free to add.
Nice write up. From my research I should still have 2 more years, but sure don't like to pay stealers or forum spammers thru my nose.
Small note, I made power bleeder with $2 junk yard parts and spare tire as pressure supply.
So there is always another way to save money.
Multiplxer is very likely in our future sooner or later anyway. That is unless you are willing to drive to DAS in Florida.
Added some new photos and information regarding pump life and cycles. This if you want to check to see if it works for you, if you decide to change your SBC pump.
Look at you cdi Jeff!!!! nice write up man! See, this is how you go about it, the proper and precise way. I do have one mi-nute question, please tell me you installed a new zip tie on your sbc connector?!?!?!?! How much did you get your pump for again???
Look at you cdi Jeff!!!! nice write up man! See, this is how you go about it, the proper and precise way. I do have one mi-nute question, please tell me you installed a new zip tie on your sbc connector?!?!?!?! How much did you get your pump for again???
No, new zip-tie on the SBC because there was bracket on the old pump that the wire rested on, and it hooked to that. The new SBC does not have the bracket. In all the wire now has more slack, better design in my option. I got the pump for around $1000 then i got $170 back. So $850ish.
When I check with Husker online, the price for my 2006 E320 is $975.
John
Not sure what that is all about. I went to my warranty work order for SBC replacement back in 2013. I get this number 008-431-39-12-83
When I punch that number into the Husker system, I get this part number:
009431271288, Our Price : $749.70.
When I go to Eeuroparts and punch in my model, I get the 009 number above. I'll check to see the printed number on the unit if visible.
There seems to be no shortage of different part numbers for this unit. If I needed the part today, I'd call Vic at Husker and be clear on what I was ordering.
Agreed on calling whoever you order the part from with your VIN to insure the correct unit is ordered. Don't need one at the moment, just looking forward to the inevitable!
Thanks you guys, I am going to be doing another write-up real soon for my CDI. I won an European intake manifold for around $80 shipped to allow for the intake flap delete.
Basically the European version does not come with intake flaps or a swirl motor so that way if anyone has problem. Instead of buying new flap which is part of the whole manifold, the can clean it or buy a European one and know how to take it apart.
I plan on doing a write-up of that, once I get everything. It it coming from Great old Britain, so it will take some time to ship.
I plan to do this style write-up seem more popular with as little words as possible and more photos.
lol I really don't know where this 'european' thing comes, we do have swirl flap manifolds installed in factory, if we buy official spare part manifolds they have flaps etc... BUT you are right someone are selling manifolds without flaps, perhaps they have just tuned those themselves which is perfect for those who want get rid of that crappy design. 80 $ is cheap!
But it is great idea to make such a awesome DIY pictorials!
Great write-up. It is stated "the last thing to do is check to see if the new pump pedal count and acutations were reset back down to zero". Are these one in the same or two values, one for pedal count and one for pump cycle?
For the SBC pump cycle check, actuations, the old value was 10M out of 50M (59,801,600). Difference of 49M. New pump value is 18,100. Difference of 59M as the max stayed the same. Does anyone know if the 59M i_V2ZMax is the pump/fail value i.e. the red BRAKE warning on the dash?
For the SBC pump cycle check, actuations, the old value was 10M out of 50M (59,801,600). Difference of 49M. New pump value is 18,100. Difference of 59M as the max stayed the same. Does anyone know if the 59M i_V2ZMax is the pump/fail value i.e. the red BRAKE warning on the dash?
The 59 million is the total amount of times the pump has been used such as accuations. It took 11 years to to hit 11 million. So I could say that, yes that if you hit the 59 miliion you might get a red light however the SBC would be so old almost positive it would fail before that. The second number 18100 is the pedal count. I just didn't take a photo before I swapped out the pump to see my old pedal count.
Thanks! I wonder what other factors/metrics MB uses to EOL the SBC. Mathematically if it took 11 years to reach 11 million pump cycles, it would be another 50 years to reach 59M (if linear). Or maybe MB doesn't want to get anywhere near the max pump life so they warn to replace at 1/6 the pump life? BTW I found it odd that the diag instructions above start in English but then have some German. I had a German friend translate Bremenzähler: brake counter.
02-17-2016, 09:30 PM
