I took my '08 E350 Sport into the dealership yesterday due to check engine light. It's been coming on for about 3 months now but every time I tried to take it in, it would turn off again. Finally, yesterday morning it came on when I started the car so I went straight to the dealership. My understanding is that anything to do with the check engine light was covered under the emissions warranty until 150,000 miles (PZEV engine), but dealer said not my issues - I walked out with a $6,253.51 repair estimate.


The car is in good shape inside out and other than the intermittent check engine light, I have only recently noticed an occasional lag upon acceleration (usually when check engine light is on). My tires are less than a year old and still seem to have plenty of tread, except the front right that is showing a little wear on the inner edge. However, the car is at 144K miles.




The main areas of concern based on the diagnostic are:
-replace camshaft magnets ($718.05)
- replace intake manifold assembly and related components ($1,993.70)
-replace centrifuge cover and cam plugs ($342.85)


Other things they recommended are:
-replace spark plugs ($397.25 - I replaced them 3 months ago)
-check front sway bar links and bushings (may require additional time and components to adjust caster and camber - $50.14)
-replace thrust arms and bushings ($593.14)
-replace lower control arms/spring arms and bushings ($631.90)
-4 wheel alignment ($217.00)
-mount & balance 2 [front] tires ($587.97 - "tires are ok but edges are wearing bald")
-mount & balance 2 [rear] tires ($703.51 - "tires are good but center is bald")


I ordered everything under areas of concern, plus the upgraded IM flapper linkage butterfly, the sway bar links and camber adjustment bolts for about $500. However, I talked to my local SA at my regular indy shop and he told me the linkage repair seldom works because the real issue is that the flapper rod bushings wear out, bind and cause the butterfly to break. He said if something breaks off inside, it might end up in the combustion chamber and cause catastrophic engine failure.


Based on that, I opted to not chance it so I ordered a new Pierburg IM (and a pair of knock sensors, while I'm at it) for another $470. Also, I already have new thrust arms, control arms & ball joints the PO gave me upon purchase (never installed them because when I took the car in for purchase inspection, I was told they didn't need replacement). I'll probably get it done this time along with everything else.


I'm on the fence whether to tackle this myself or just take it to the shop to perform the work.


My big question is, is there anything else I really should replace while everything is apart? This will determine whether I spend the money on labor or in replacing additional components. TIA

 

Review some of the YouTube videos by iRepair. I performed the cam caps (3 of them) and the oil drip pan/separator and the oil cam
cover: all relatively easy. In regards to the manifold, I am going to probably opt to replace the whole manifold but refit the actuator and runner with the aluminum part from ECS TUNING (this is not a paid endorsement). If some of the plastic flaps are broken in the old manifold, I don't want to do this repair again by just replacing the runner.

 

Just did most of that this weekend.

I just did the camshaft magnets (you probably don't need them all, or any unless there was a specific code for a specific cam)

Mine had one cam code showing (Left intake) so I did one magnet (About $28 a piece)

If it is the left side you need a new oil cooler gasket, and maybe the Power Steering reservoir gasket (Both cheap)

Cheapest intake is the reman off ebay for about $350, but you can get new for about $100 or so more.

You can also repair the broken arm for $20 to $80

I did the Reman.

Rear oil seals and vent come as a kit for about $30 to $35. Easy as pie.

-replace camshaft magnets ($718.05) 4 for $100 or $28 a piece
- replace intake manifold assembly and related components ($1,993.70) Reman for $350
-replace centrifuge cover and cam plugs ($342.85) About $32


Add to that oil cooler gasket $10,
Power Steering gasket $5 (I did not use)
Air Filters $30
Injector O-rings $12

A can of foaming engine cleaner, a can of Break/Electrical cleaner, a can of Carb Cleaner $15
A roll of paper towels. (Had on hand)
About 1-1/2 to 2 quarts MB blue coolant ($30) (Had on hand)
About 4 oz of CHF-11s (if you remove the PS reservoir).($15) (Had on hand)
2 wire ties
Blue lock-tite

I did not do the MAF gaskets, but would have if I thought of it.