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So after watching the forecast showing Irma moving west we decided to leave the Florida west coast for a condo on the east coast. No problem, right? Except now the parking lot here is flooded up to about halfway up the tailpipes. Water is right at the door sills, but car appears to be dry inside.
Key fob now won't unlock doors, and valet key will open a door but sets off alarm. Same thing for trunk release and valet for trunk...alarm.
Parking spot was dry when I parked there. Think I'll be okay once it dies out a bit or am I boned here? I haven't tried starting it yet and won't until the water recedes. Alarm sounds so there must be power anyway.
Advice?
Car is an 07 W211 with P1 and P2, sports package. Only 85k mi and until this was perfect.
Do your homework,
from top of the head the car has battery at floor level, but also under passenger feet you have electrical connector and electronic boxes.
I would tow the car to dry location, leave it with doors open for 2-4 days and battery disconnected and check all the location where electrical/electronic boxes sit.
Not knowing how high was the water - turning it by hand before firing up the starter would be advised as well.
My insurance guy told me not to attempt starting, so I never did. Insurance adjuster was just here and thinks it's the SAM module which he said was under the back seat. I think it's in the trunk, but whatever. I'm going to have an Indy shop here look it over and go from there.
Water never got to the height of the intakes. Interior is dry except for drivers side rear where there's an inch or so standing. Spare tire compartment is dry and passengers rear is dry as well. Hoping to dodge the total loss bullet here because I really like this car.
I would also want to make sure there is no water in the differentials and/ or transfer case. They are usually vented to atmosphere by way of a rubber hose or small vent stack.
Well, I still haven't got the car back but here's the deal... The indy shop I had it taken to has determined that the problem was just that the electric cables in the floor were wet. Once they dried out everything worked just fine. The big problem now is getting the carpet to dry, since it has a closed cell foam that really doesn't want to allow water to evaporate.
Seats and carpets are out of the car now but will be reinstalled early this week and I'm hoping I can pick it up by midweek. Funny how no modules/sams needed to be replaced, huh?
I would also want to make sure there is no water in the differentials and/ or transfer case. They are usually vented to atmosphere by way of a rubber hose or small vent stack.
Just saw your comment about the differential/transfer case. I already asked the tech to drain/fill the transmission fluid but thanks to your advice I'll suggest that he also have a look at the diff. Probably needs differential fluid done anyway at 85k miles. Mine is a standard rwd though, so it has no front differential/transfer case, right?
Yes, rear wheel drive has no front differential. Only the 4-Matics do.
On the water logged interior stuff...If the water got into the seat foam so can air to dry it out. Setting the seats in direct sunlight on a warm day should help bake out the moisture. Most sign shops and car refinishing shops have "paint ovens" or medium to large sized ovens that could also bake the moisture out. Max temperature should not exceed 140-150 degrees F so you don'e melt the plastic trim. Same would go for any enclosure that was large enough to fit the seats into, was somewhat sealed and in direct sunlight on a hot day.
I would want nothing to do with that car at this point. Hopefully you can claim it as a total loss with your insurance.
You already had electrical issues due to the flooding in your original post. Things won't get better.
This right here. Even if the car works great tomorrow, you can count on relentless electrical gremlins rearing their ugly heads as corrosion sets in during the following weeks/months/years.
To put it another way: Would you put your computer in a bathtub filled with water, dry it out, then expect it to be OK? Me neither. And your car has considerably more computer chips than your PC does.
This right here. Even if the car works great tomorrow, you can count on relentless electrical gremlins rearing their ugly heads as corrosion sets in during the following weeks/months/years.
To put it another way: Would you put your computer in a bathtub filled with water, dry it out, then expect it to be OK? Me neither. And your car has considerably more computer chips than your PC does.
Home computers are not design for "bad weather" but take a look at this electronic board that come from generator.
That thing can take water, dust, thunderstorm and who knows what else.
MB beside making sealed boards, also puts them in coffins.
Home computers are not design for "bad weather" but take a look at this electronic board that come from generator.
That thing can take water, dust, thunderstorm and who knows what else.
MB beside making sealed boards, also puts them in coffins.
Tell me again why your dashboard implores you to CLOSE THE SUNROOF!! when you turn off the car. I've read a couple of stories on this board where a bit of rain through an open sunroof caused a world of pain for an unlucky 211 owner.
Oil weeping into the TCU through the wiring harness can cause issues. Imagine what salt water will do to every point of access it will find. The electronics inside the car, in the rocker panels, under the carpet, in the trunk, were never intended to get wet. The board you show (from an alternator?) is designed to be in the abusive environment of an engine compartment.
On dashboard you have switches. Those are not weather-tide. At least W211 has boot over gear shifting switch as lot of W210 owners had to replace switch with integrated board after coffee spill.
But I have seen TCU flooded with ATF for long time and not triggering the problem. Usually it is wet plug on pilot bushing with all the contamination going there that makes shorts.
Bottom line - some things are design to survive, some not.
Just picked up the car yesterday. Again, water had just barely reached the bottom edge of the door and the intrusion into the interior cabin was only in the driver's side rear.
Evidently the indy has lots of experience in this area and replaced all junctions affected. Car is 100% as of now but we'll see going forward. I'm told that electrical issues that might arise in the future are now owned by the insurance company, which is why they typically don't want to risk repair in these situations and instead opt to total it out.
Anyway, all's good in the neighborhood, for now at least. Thanks for your advice.
Yes, rear wheel drive has no front differential. Only the 4-Matics do.
On the water logged interior stuff...If the water got into the seat foam so can air to dry it out. Setting the seats in direct sunlight on a warm day should help bake out the moisture. Most sign shops and car refinishing shops have "paint ovens" or medium to large sized ovens that could also bake the moisture out. Max temperature should not exceed 140-150 degrees F so you don'e melt the plastic trim. Same would go for any enclosure that was large enough to fit the seats into, was somewhat sealed and in direct sunlight on a hot day.
Water never got anywhere near high enough to reach the seats. Again, it was only an inch or so in the driver's rear. The big issue was getting the carpets out and dried, which took WEEKS because of the closed cell foam that Mercedes uses. To do this properly they did remove the seats, both front and rear.
Thanks for the update and I'm looking forward to hearing how things are going in a month/year/two years.
Just curious: Was the water that came into the car salt water or not salt water?
09-11-2017, 03:50 PM
