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I hooked the old pedal back up for shots & giggles to see what codes I got and the P0122 is coming up now and no P0123 anymore! Reset ECU by turning key to on position, push brake pedal down for 5-10 seconds, turn key off, release pedal, wait 2-5 mins, and try to start car. Car still not starting and now I'm getting no codes and its still not starting (wasted $75 on this part I apparently didn't need)... check engine light still on...
and if things couldn't get worse someone stole my new multimeter... FML... (-_-)
I checked the fuel rail line and there is no pressure at all coming out when I push the pin in. So fuel rail has no pressure. Bad sending unit? Fuel pump? Buying a new multimeter after work otw home so will check reading tonight. Any insight would be appreciated as I am getting frustrated...
1. Does the error code show as "current" or "stored"?
2. Does the key now turn in the ignition switch?
3. Does the car power up in position 1 and position 2?
4. Does the starter engage in position 3?
Your picture shows the error is pending which usually means it is a potential problem but has not reached the point to be called a failure.
If 2 and 3 are "yes", and 4 is "no", check the starter relay in the front SAM. The relay is pulled closed by the ECU once the ECU receives the "good key" signal from the Drive Authorization System/EIS.
CEL will not come without a code. I suspect you have inadequate scanner.
I thought it might be the app (OBD Car Doctor) so I downloaded Torque (Lite) just to check and still got no codes. I will pull the BT scanner tonight and see if it resets. Then check codes again before proceeding to test gas issues.
Dumb question but what does ME stand for? I was looking at other posts about no pressure at fuel rail and one suggestion was to check wires at ME pins 17 & 4 I believe. I tried to search web for slang, abbreviations, lingo but got nothing. I'm sure these will come natural once I start school next month.
Was going to try and pour gas in engine directly tonight to see if it starts up by-passing the fuel pump because the car is now trying to start where as before it wasn't. Now it just sounds like its out of gas, or maybe a clogged filter, bad hoses, bad pump (not turning on). I will update around 7-8PM EST.
1. Does the error code show as "current" or "stored"?
2. Does the key now turn in the ignition switch?
3. Does the car power up in position 1 and position 2?
4. Does the starter engage in position 3?
Your picture shows the error is pending which usually means it is a potential problem but has not reached the point to be called a failure.
If 2 and 3 are "yes", and 4 is "no", check the starter relay in the front SAM. The relay is pulled closed by the ECU once the ECU receives the "good key" signal from the Drive Authorization System/EIS.
1. Not getting any error codes off reader.
2. Key has always turned in ignition
3. Car powers up in both positions (radio, lights)
4. The car does try to turn over... its not just the cranking sound anymore... I was going to try and pour gas in directly to bypass the pump...
pouring fuel directly opens whole can of worms.
HFT sells fuel pressure gauges for $19 and that would be wise investment.
On other hand my TorquePro reads fuel pressure, but the data I am getting are not reliable. Still I remember the $5 upgrade that takes seconds to download.
Some scanners have option of forcing codes clearing, so if you find it, try to use it.
Again, CEL lights only with code and it has to be pending code >>> historic or stored codes don't count.
Make sure you read code with key in on position, not in accessories position.
So no to pouring the fuel in directly... gotcha... I have to go by HFT today anyways to replace my multimeter so will pick one up then.
SO what are my next steps getting/not getting pressure from fuel rail?
Key was in on position, one more turn would cause car to try and start.
Any suggestions on what ME stands for? from post ~ "Your rear sam controls your fuel pumps-the ME is what tells it to kick that relay over-maybe you need to do a voltage drop on pins 4 and 17 on the small connector of your ME but this may not be making sense to you...." https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ump-again.html
Purchase a fuel pressure test kit for $25 from Amazon and have it shipped for delivery tomorrow via Prime.
Search for images on your car's fuel rail and you'll see the Schrader valve to which to connect the gauge.
Pelican Parts has a tech article showing how to test the fuel pump on a W211 E320.
Purchase a fuel pressure test kit for $25 from Amazon and have it shipped for delivery tomorrow via Prime.
Search for images on your car's fuel rail and you'll see the Schrader valve to which to connect the gauge.
Pelican Parts has a tech article showing how to test the fuel pump on a W211 E320.
The ME is the ECU. (Motor Electronics)
Already picked up a fuel pressure gauge from HFT. I read that article on Pelican a few days ago and its how I found that valve (front left, top of motor)
and tested to see if anything came out. I also saw this video on YT that suggested pouring gas directly to test the pump & filter
You have a lot to learn, mb tool will do everything other's can't. Learn the basics and think logical.
Yes I do have a lot to learn, but I'm willing and able to do so. Good thing I read a lot. The one issue I have with the MB tool is its only good for MB and not domestic. Not good for someone on a budget atm, and is looking to buy a WRX. Do you suggest the i980 that can read both or do I need the iCarSoft Smart MB II one?
MB hacked tool will not do much on newer MB that require SCN coding.
From what SDS gurus say, if you want really working MB scanner, you need to sink about $3k and figure out subscription.
That is why I hesitate to sink money on C-category scanners, when the MaxiEcu I have does most of it and will (eventually) work on newer MB when needed.
The additional brand licence for ME is in the $30 range, but unfortunately -being European scanner ME does not cover US-build trucks.
Good news is that competition is growing and those days you can buy a legal scanner reading MB in $100 range, when just few years ago we have been talking about $700 for scanners with hacked programs (and lot of worms for free).
MB hacked tool will not do much on newer MB that require SCN coding.
From what SDS gurus say, if you want really working MB scanner, you need to sink about $3k and figure out subscription.
That is why I hesitate to sink money on C-category scanners, when the MaxiEcu I have does most of it and will (eventually) work on newer MB when needed.
The additional brand licence for ME is in the $30 range, but unfortunately -being European scanner ME does not cover US-build trucks.
Good news is that competition is growing and those days you can buy a legal scanner reading MB in $100 range, when just few years ago we have been talking about $700 for scanners with hacked programs (and lot of worms for free).
Oh man, that worms for free line... makes me shudder (thinks back to past headaches)
I tested the fuel rail and nothing, no pressure. I sprayed starter fluid into throttle body and it started up. It died, of course, but now I know it WILL start. I checked the fuel pump and wasn't getting any readings for power. I pulled the pump to bench test and the thing is dead. Nothing Nada. So now I am searching for a pump.
I hope this is the only problem. Will update after I install new pump.
Here's a wild thought, any indication of fuel odor or leakage that "may" qualify for 15-year warranty extension no cost repair. During warranty repair dealer should provide diagnostics for any additional faults in an attempt to book additional at-cost repairs now you'll know exactly what's going on.
Last edited by konigstiger; 12-23-2017 at 10:32 AM.
I would suggest checking for power at the pump connector as well.
A non networked MB diagnostic equipment will perform all necessary functions to diagnose new vehicles except changing the coding of control units.
didn't your mother ever teach you that if you dont have anything nice to say then MOVE ON...
What he's trying to find out, is exactly where you live.
Some countries will not qualify for the 15-year warranty in regards to the fuel system. My fuel pump went out, I went to my local dealer and stated that there was gas smell inside my vehicle and all work was done with no questions asked free of charge under Mercedes-Benz warranty.
Asking what planet I live on isn't asking where I live.
Anyways... I replaced the pump and car is back on the road. Still getting the TPS code. Swapped the pedal out and with the used one it would wait 5 seconds to accelerate with Low voltage code, put old pedal back on and car responds immediately but has high voltage code.
On the way home from work the brake warning light came on, loss of power, max speed 60. I had to pull over, turn car off, take key out, open door, shut door, start car for it reset. A friend suggested it could be the caliper. Any truth to this?
The steering wheel adjustment stopped working to. Does anyone know which fuse controls it?
That warning relates to sbc and as a safety the throttle will be limited!
Steering wheel malfunction is another issue, run a short test first.
Replace the SBC unit
Good luck.
This car really needs to be hooked up to a Star Diagnostics machine before throwing any more parts at it. It sounds like there are a lot of faults from seemingly unrelated components - which could be an electrical problem. It could be something as simple as a bad battery or alternator, there are so many electronics in these (and all modern cars) and they're sensitive to low voltage. There are also a couple of signal acquisition modules (SAM), one front and one rear, that all of the different modules in the car connect through. Think of the SAM as a network router, all of the data flowing between the various components in the car flows through one or both of these modules. These don't often go bad unless they've been wet or damaged, but if one has developed a problem it could cause all kinds of strange behavior. A Star Diagnostics scan will really narrow things down.
The Brake warning usually means it's time to replace the SBC pump, or it could be something as simple as a bad brake pedal switch, or another electrical problem. The pump can be checked with Star and the number of remaining pedal actuations will be shown. The pump is designed to trigger that alert and put the car into a limp mode after a preset number of pedal actuations as sort of a safety measure against unexpected pump failure while driving. A tech can run other diagnostics on the brake pump through SDS as well.
Hard to crystal-ball those cars without SD, but last picture shows whole bunch of lights.
Chances that brakes, air bags, CEL and ABS fail at the same time are slim and usually such discotheque is related to low voltage.
So if SD is not easy available- I would carefully check the batteries to start.
12-20-2017, 11:44 AM
hmmm
