M113 crankcase pulley not too hard to change
02-17-2018, 04:30 PM
#1
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2007 Mercedes E550
M113 crankcase pulley not too hard to change
Beautiful engine put back together
Tools: Removal tool, 27mm socket, 150 ft lb torque wrench, cheater bar, eye protection
Tool is absolutely necessary to get off pulley
Mercedes pulley off of vehicle showing signs of rubber failing
My crankshaft pulley on my 2006 w219 was showing excessive vibration, so I figured I better change it before it goes altogether.
Following a Mercedes Medic tutorial, I bought the pulley removal tool and new pulley. About $200 total. First I removed the shroud and fan. Then I used the tool with breaker bar and cheater bar to loosen big bolt. It wasn't too hard. Then I put the new pulley on and torqued to 147 ft pounds plus about an additional quarter turn. Getting that extra quarter turn was the hardest part. Then I put her back together, fired her up, and the pulley ran smooth with no more vibration.
I just wanted to post to let others know this job is not really that hard. Just be really patient, but the correct tools, and carefully read/watch the online tutorials.
Attached are some pics of my old pulley, engine put back together, and the various tools I used.
02-17-2018, 07:19 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
It might depend. On my 320 Bluetec I had to build like 5 feet extension to breaker bar to move the main bolt and I am not small man.
My estimate it took about 500 ft-lb
My estimate it took about 500 ft-lb
02-18-2018, 04:50 AM
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2007 Mercedes E550
That's insane! Specs show the torque value for this bolt is 147 ft lbs plus a quarter turn, clearly not 500 ft lbs. I guess the bolt gets seized? I used a 24" breaker bar plus about a 24" cheater bar...
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dvenneman (03-24-2022)
02-18-2018, 11:24 AM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Bare in mind my was diesel, where parts are stronger than gasoline.
I think the bolts are put with threadlocker and that what makes them hard to remove. In the past I was taking off harmonic ballancers on other MB and not having the special tool had to really jam good bar on transmission converter to hold it.
Good impact wrench will remove the bolt without holding the engine, but then you need to make space for it by radiator removal.
I think the bolts are put with threadlocker and that what makes them hard to remove. In the past I was taking off harmonic ballancers on other MB and not having the special tool had to really jam good bar on transmission converter to hold it.
Good impact wrench will remove the bolt without holding the engine, but then you need to make space for it by radiator removal.
Last edited by kajtek1; 02-18-2018 at 11:27 AM.
03-23-2022, 01:14 PM
#6
Dont mean to bump up an old thread. But when you installed this pulley and saw it spin, did it still wobble? I had gotten mine done at a dealership and was wondering why it still wobbles with a new one installed. Experience technician was telling me that its normal on m113 engines and that its nothing to worry about. I want to know what your impressions were after installing yours by yourself.
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dvenneman (03-24-2022)
03-24-2022, 01:30 PM
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
Dont mean to bump up an old thread. But when you installed this pulley and saw it spin, did it still wobble?
I had gotten mine done at a dealership and was wondering why it still wobbles with a new one installed. Experience technician was telling me that its normal on m113 engines and that its nothing to worry about.
I want to know what your impressions were after installing yours by yourself.
I had gotten mine done at a dealership and was wondering why it still wobbles with a new one installed. Experience technician was telling me that its normal on m113 engines and that its nothing to worry about.
I want to know what your impressions were after installing yours by yourself.
I like how dealers agents always say: "this is no big deal!" as in really: "get the hell out of my way" or "nothing that money can't fix"...
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-25-2022 at 12:45 PM.
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04-08-2022, 10:11 AM
#8
You can see your brand new dealer installed crank pulley wobbling, it is guaranteed to strain your main belt... double check the serpentine TENSIONER is still alive and has not pigeon holed itself, ready to shave the belt. No wonder they are a service item with idlers pulleys....
I like how dealers agents always say: "this is no big deal!" as in really: "get the hell out of my way" or "nothing that money can't fix"...
I like how dealers agents always say: "this is no big deal!" as in really: "get the hell out of my way" or "nothing that money can't fix"...
04-08-2022, 01:48 PM
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
from one thing to another...
When you see the main pulley wobbling you can tell the tensioner has to work extra hard to keep equal tension on the belt.
Imagine that system rotating at 5000Rpm...
The internal tensioner spring works well back and fourth for a longtime. At end of life the tensioner can get stiff or wobbly.
It's often undiagnosed and overlooked as a "lifetime part"... not so! 75kMi is fair for serpentine, idlers plus tensioner all at once as a kit.
Why your crank is wobbling is anybody's guess... You have a new pulley and tensioner, so things have been taken care of for a while in that system.
Imagine that system rotating at 5000Rpm...
The internal tensioner spring works well back and fourth for a longtime. At end of life the tensioner can get stiff or wobbly.
It's often undiagnosed and overlooked as a "lifetime part"... not so! 75kMi is fair for serpentine, idlers plus tensioner all at once as a kit.
Why your crank is wobbling is anybody's guess... You have a new pulley and tensioner, so things have been taken care of for a while in that system.
