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Can someone post up either a DIY or the WIS for a W211 with a M112 (2005 E320) on how to replace the engine oil dipstick TUBE grommet / seal where it inserts in to the oil pan?
I have the grommet and the intake out but can't get the dipstick tube out to change the grommet and I wanted to ask how to do it before I break something and make more work for myself.
I searched here, pelican DIY, & YouTube and found nothing.
Thanks kjb55,
From the document it looks like it's for a W211 with a M112, only problem is my dipstick guide tube seems to be located in a different place, with a different shape than most of the directions. My dipstick is capped and located at the rear of the passanger cylinder head like the picture on the lower left, like this NOT in the front mounted on the cylinder head (that'd be too easy ).
My E320 is a 2005, this WIS maybe for a newer model?
The way my guide tube is bent it has to be removed pulling up and back towards the rear of the car but the tube is so long the tube gets jammed against the fire wall before the end comes out of the grommet.
I've read this thread, but it doesn't address the actual problem until post #20. If the attached picture of the guide tube is the same as my guide tube, I still have 3 or so inches until it would be completely removed based on how far I can get it out until it hits the fire wall.
I was hoping there was a alternative way to remove the guide tube I'm just not seeing. In the thread above it seems the only solution anybody came up with was to cut the dipstick guide tube, wich I'd rather not have to do.
I did notice in the WIS instruction 7.1 says drop oil pan which includes dropping the sub frame, maybe doing this provides enough clearance to get the guide tube out?
Anybody have any suggestions or a different WIS on how to get the dipstick guide tube without dropping the sub frame or the oil pan?
Since nobody has a solution for this I cut the dam thing.
If you cut it, cut it 2.875" below the bottom of the mount that bolts to the block. You'll have to pull it out as much as you can, use a mini pipe cutter. BEFORE you start cutting it, make a verticle mark from the bottom of the block mount to as close as you can get to the ring/bump that sits above the grommet otherwise it a complete biotch matching the pieces up after you cut it, don't ask me how I know .
Once you cut it, remove the top half, then pull the bottom towards the back when it stops, then pull it back while rotating it in ward toward the bell housing, almost flipping it over in the process. It will be wonky but it will come out and the grommet will come with it as the pipe has a bend at the end and that's why you need to twist it to get it out.
Pipe OD is .468" so cut a 3"-4" piece of heater hose or good fuel hose with close to .468" ID. Put it on the 2 halfs of pipe, Line up the marks from before you cut it, now mark the hose following the same line as the original markings. Once markings are dry ( I used paint pen), pull the tubes apart and clean up the inside of the tubes where you made the cut, the pipe cutter will leave burrs & shavings inside the pipe, I used a mini half round file, then sand paper on a 1/4" drive extension to finish the clean up.
Once cleaned up, assemble the rubber hose on the lower pipe half way in the hose and lined up with your alignment markings and put on a hose clamp, my hose was .75" OD, and tighten it down good. Insert the lower half set up with a new grommet on it into the oil pan grommet hole, it'll go in reverse as it came out, once in and seated, take the top half cut pipe put it in the hose and push it in until it hits the bottom tube clamped in the hose. Put your left arm down the fire wall until you can feel the bottom of the guide tube and grommet seated in the oil pan hole. Use your left hand as a guide as you push the top half tube down hard until the grommet is fully seated which you can feel for with your left hand. Use your left hand to help the tube to get the best angle to full seat the grommet in the hole, I'm strong and it took both hands pushing and keeping the tube from flexing at the cut inside the hose.
Once your sure grommet is seated ALL THE WAY IN, line up the the alignment markings on the upper tube and the hose. Using a 2nd hose clamp, clamp down the top half tight. Then rebolt it all back in at the block and at the head.
Now I got under the car and removed the 2 bell housing bolts that hold the battery cable and O2 sensor wiring to the bell housing as the guide tube was blocked from coming out by these wires and mounts. NOTE, the bell housing bolt holding the O2 sensor wiring is the lower mount for the starter and the large wire with the copper looking bracket is the upper mount for the starter SO DO NOT REMOVE BOTH OF THE BOLTS AT THE SAME TIME AS YOU'LL DROP/MOVE THE STARTER. So remove these bolts one at a time, remove the bracket, and put the bolt back in and tighten it down, then do the other one. This will save you a world of hurt, a bunch of time, and possibally prevent you from having to replace a broken starter or worse a broken flywheel.
I'm sure I'm missed a few things but this is most of it, now you can change your POS leaky $3 grommet MB is too cheap to make right or makes crap to keep their service bays full, without having to drop the engine oil Pand and the sub frame.
02-14-2019, 08:17 AM
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