722.9 Transmission Issues
 

I have a 2006 E350. A few weeks ago the car got stuck in limp mode due to a fault with the K2 Clutch Solenoid. My mechanic suggested replacing the solenoid, which I did. The car drove great for two days until the same code came back again. We then replaced the conductor plate. I had VGS-2 so I did not replace the valve body. The car now shifts terribly between 1-2 and 2-3 and is now is throwing P0730 code. I'm not sure what to do from here and I am afraid I have been screwed over by my mechanic. If anyone has any suggestions let me know. Thanks!!:smash:

Did you installed a new or used? Does your mechanic have the ability to program and code online with Mercedes servers? There is a procedure that needs to be done when replacing just the conductor plate.

It was a brand new VGS 3 plate from Mercedes of Palm Beach. According to him, he had the plate programmed with a Mercedes computer. It's possible it wasn't an updated and online computer. What do you suggest I do from here? I am contemplated taking it to the dealer or another shop. I am already $1300 into the repair. At this point I just want it done right. I have 132k on the car and have had few problems with it until now.

Wrong post...

Did you buy the part or did he buy the part? You need a special licensing to be able to purchase a conductor plate from the dealer. I do tons of those plates here and have never had a problem. Without having the car here, it would be really hard for me to tell you what to do or what is happening.

Are you sure VGS3 conductor is compatible with older valve body?

I was sure latest conductor requires the newer valve bodies.
Having that code points at that being a possibility.

2006 and up conductor plates are VGS2-NAG2. As long as you can communicate with the module, you can replace just the conductor plate. All the new/reman units from the dealer are VGS3-NAG2 made by Continental. I have done plates on cars with over 150k miles with no issues. There is a certain way to this.

I do have a simple fix to offer. It is a cheap test that only costs your time and a bit of labor. My previous car was a w230 2005 Mercedes c230 1.8L Kompressor. She developed a hard downshifting from 2nd to 1rst. I changed the ATF oil and filter but the problem remained. My next like of reasoning was that the conductor plate was going bad. But then I had an idea, and remembered how seafoam transtune completely solved another problem that involved my power steering. Then I read hundreds of reviews on Amazon, and many suggested that the transtune could clean "sticky valves" in the valve body. I thought I would at least give it a shot before extensive repairs, nothing to lose.

So I went to Advance Auto parts one day and bough the transtune and dumped the entire 16oz. can in the ATF dipstick (i.e., obviously you cannot do that with our sealed 722.9 transmission). Almost immediately the hard shift disappeared. It completely disappeared. I had just figured out to fix the most sensitive and expensive part of my Mercedes for practically nothing. Note that before I added the 16oz. I removed 16 oz. to ensure the same fluid level. The car continued to shift flawlessly.

Now I own a w219, with 722.9 transmission and when I recently changed the ATF I pumped in the transtune. There was not a problem like my c230, but I did use the transtune and it has not caused anything bad. Just beautiful shifts from my 5.0 liter engine.

Feel free to PM if you have questions.

Here is the link to my w203 transtune thread
Seafoam Transtune Miracle

UPDATE
 

The transmission is toast. $6000 to rebuild it. My mechanic royally messed up. The rough shifting was slippage. My mechanic claimed it was safe to drive and it wasn’t. I’m considering taking legal action against him.

$6k??!! That’s the price of a new one. I rebuild them for $4500. That includes updated pump, molded pistons, clutches, upgraded input and output shafts, reman valve body with new/reman conductor plate. Complete job with removal, rebuild, programming, coding and adaptations.

Tranny Rebuild
 

It was going to be $4000 but the torque converter was shot and I needed an updated radiator and a new external tranny cooler. The price was decent for all the work. Had my mechanic not ****ed up the transmission so bad I wouldn’t have needed a rebuild. All I can say is, don’t let amateurs mess with the 722.9. I also get a 3 year warranty on all the work done which gives me piece of mind.

Unless your radiator is leaking, why would you need a radiator? And why in the world would you need an external trans oil cooler??? Never have I heard this!

Radiator
 

The external tranny cooler is prolong the life of the transmission. It needed a radiator because it was leaking. This was due to a faulty coolant flush done by the same mechanic. I have documented all of my issues and plan on presenting it to the mechanic who damaged the car.

UPDATE
 

It was my mistake... the radiator was not properly flushed the last time. It was over pressurized. There was no tranny cooler installed. I have the car back now with the conductor plate. It looks like a fake one. My original mechanic was able to get it for $447. Does that seem right to you guys. Thanks for your help in advance, I am trying to determine what happened.