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So here are the readings after getting my diagnostics tool. Any idea what some of this means ofc it’s blazing hot but is it due to the compressor?
just gonna tag ppl who have helped in the past @juanmor40@Plutoe
Please collect two sets of data
1 - car off for a while, so refrigerant pressure reaches lowest value
2 - scan the vehicle, and take those snapshot
3 - car ON, AC at MaxCool or LO setting, engine @1500 rpm
4 - scan again, snapshots
The previous snapshot show low refrigerant pressure.
The chart above is for refrigerant R134a, you can read refrigerant pressure for the ambient temperature, 102.2 F in your snapshot. -> 128 psi. Assuming the cars Temperature sensor may 1 or 2 F error, it seems the computer reported pressure of 137 psi is about static pressure in the system when off, or a barely actuated compressor.
Recheck, to confirm those pressures are correct.
Now, the snapshot shows compressor being actuate at 70% , but pressure is not increased. Why?
Is the electronic control valve working correctly? You can do two test at the compressor:
- disconnect wiring to the compressor
- measure resistance between contacts on the valve, note it
- measure voltage at connector, note it. Do NOT ground this contacts since it is a control signal, not a power signal.
If you conclude it is the compressor, the system must be cleaned, flushed well. New drier, condenser, compressor + ??. You need to know why it failed, or the new one WILL fail again quickly
checked the pressures with gauges static pressure was reading 75psi on low side, and 85psi on high pressure. With rpm’s @1500 max ac the readings were 80psi on low side, and high side was still 85 psi. The ambient temps are 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Also scanner was plugged in reading 70% again on the compressor also this there was a very loud screeching noise.
Is it still okay to drive though? I have to work. Also I’m having issues I crank the car and it endlessly try’s to turnover yesterday I had a code for eis saying undervoltage and apparently and I was thinking voltage regulator on alternator.
Is it still okay to drive though? I have to work. Also I’m having issues I crank the car and it endlessly try’s to turnover yesterday I had a code for eis saying undervoltage and apparently and I was thinking voltage regulator on alternator.
If you have a screeching noise from a rotating part, it can break while spinning and do extensive damage around.
Undervoltage sounds you have a weak battery, but the exact message will help.
These vehicles require batteries to be charged at all times and healthy. Otherwise, all kind of error messages and malfunctions start to happen.
Understood my battery readings are in perfect condition but with some of those fault codes I have a feeling it could be a voltage regulator. I’ve heard that Mercedes or my models alternators are amazing but the voltage regs suck
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