Wheel Tire Damage, need advice
11-21-2011, 11:57 AM
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2010 E550 4MATIC
Wheel Tire Damage, need advice
Okay, so it finally happened! I slammed my 20" HRE's on a large pothole on the freeway in Baltimore. Within minutes, tire was flat. So I took it in today, and the tire was pinched and had a hole in the sidewall, so that has to be replaced. I couldn't appreciate the slight bend in the wheel that the wheel repair shop noticed.
They said, however, that I may not necessarily need to fix the bent wheel, but it may slightly affect my ride. Their main problem was that if I fix the wheel they will have extreme difficulty matching the matte gray finish of the HRE's.
The question is how difficult is it to match matte finishes? This place (Ye Old Wheel Shop in Maryland) is pretty reputable. If it's not that difficult, should I be looking elsewhere. Secondly, what is it unreasonable to ride on a "slightly" bent wheel. The latter sounds horrible in my opinion but I also don't want a two-tone wheel.
The last option is a new wheel, but I'm not quite ready to fork out that much money yet. Guess that's why they say, "you pay to play".
Thanks for any advice.
PS
The pic is of the wheel in the trunk. The red tape is where the tire is damaged. I tried to get an angle to show the wheel bend, but it's very subtle.
They said, however, that I may not necessarily need to fix the bent wheel, but it may slightly affect my ride. Their main problem was that if I fix the wheel they will have extreme difficulty matching the matte gray finish of the HRE's.
The question is how difficult is it to match matte finishes? This place (Ye Old Wheel Shop in Maryland) is pretty reputable. If it's not that difficult, should I be looking elsewhere. Secondly, what is it unreasonable to ride on a "slightly" bent wheel. The latter sounds horrible in my opinion but I also don't want a two-tone wheel.
The last option is a new wheel, but I'm not quite ready to fork out that much money yet. Guess that's why they say, "you pay to play".
Thanks for any advice.
PS
The pic is of the wheel in the trunk. The red tape is where the tire is damaged. I tried to get an angle to show the wheel bend, but it's very subtle.
11-21-2011, 12:09 PM
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14' CLS550
Well theres a difference between slightly bent, and soo bent that its not holding air, or affecting your ride. If its slightly bent and just an eye sore, id wait till you have the $ to get a new rim. And sad to say theres a good chance your going to bend another rim again. I would get a new tire put on, and see how it rides.
11-21-2011, 12:13 PM
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2010 E550 4MATIC
Ya, I think that's the plan. I'll see in a couple of days whether it'll hold air with the new tire. I just always assumed even small bends are pretty detrimental but I guess they don't have to be?
11-21-2011, 12:19 PM
#4
If you would like us to inspect the wheel, please email us at info@hrewheels.com and we will be able to give you our best feedback. Obviously since we can get the finish done the same since we are the manufacture.
11-21-2011, 12:32 PM
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2011 E-350, 2010 GL-450
I had almost the same type of issue back when I had a brand-new Eagle Talon - TSi, AWD (awesome car)
My suggestion is to replace tire and have it road-force balanced at a good shop. If you have an issue, then get it replaced, not fixed.
Most of the time, a good balance job will fix your issue.
My suggestion is to replace tire and have it road-force balanced at a good shop. If you have an issue, then get it replaced, not fixed.
Most of the time, a good balance job will fix your issue.
Last edited by Mr Snappy; 11-21-2011 at 04:42 PM.
11-21-2011, 12:59 PM
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If you decide to repair the HRE wheel (especially if its forged), I do agree that the only place it should be done at is HRE. More expensive - absolutely. Are you guaranteed that the job will be done right? Absolutely.
For 20" wheels in the North East, consider:
a. using higher profile tires that stock's diameter - 235/35-20 instead of 245/30-20;
b. regardless of tire size, use at least 40lbs cold tire pressure.
Since your bend is minor, both of the above might have prevented that bend in the first place and maybe would have saved the tire as well.
More importantly, and I'm sure you've heard it before, strongly consider using lower diameter wheels with higher sidewall tires for "winter" months (which could be upto 6 months due to bad road conditions). Stock wheels with stock tires (if you still have them, but also pumped to higher that "recommended" tire pressure) or even higher sidewall tires (255/40-18 or 235/45-18) are guaranteed to fair much better (1" per sidewall will make a difference). Of course 18" and 17" do get demaged too, but chances are far less and repair/replacement bills are much lower.
For 20" wheels in the North East, consider:
a. using higher profile tires that stock's diameter - 235/35-20 instead of 245/30-20;
b. regardless of tire size, use at least 40lbs cold tire pressure.
Since your bend is minor, both of the above might have prevented that bend in the first place and maybe would have saved the tire as well.
More importantly, and I'm sure you've heard it before, strongly consider using lower diameter wheels with higher sidewall tires for "winter" months (which could be upto 6 months due to bad road conditions). Stock wheels with stock tires (if you still have them, but also pumped to higher that "recommended" tire pressure) or even higher sidewall tires (255/40-18 or 235/45-18) are guaranteed to fair much better (1" per sidewall will make a difference). Of course 18" and 17" do get demaged too, but chances are far less and repair/replacement bills are much lower.
11-21-2011, 01:14 PM
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
If you decide to repair the HRE wheel (especially if its forged), I do agree that the only place it should be done at is HRE. More expensive - absolutely. Are you guaranteed that the job will be done right? Absolutely.
For 20" wheels in the North East, consider:
a. using higher profile tires that stock's diameter - 235/35-20 instead of 245/30-20;
b. regardless of tire size, use at least 40lbs cold tire pressure.
Since your bend is minor, both of the above might have prevented that bend in the first place and maybe would have saved the tire as well.
More importantly, and I'm sure you've heard it before, strongly consider using lower diameter wheels with higher sidewall tires for "winter" months (which could be upto 6 months due to bad road conditions). Stock wheels with stock tires (if you still have them, but also pumped to higher that "recommended" tire pressure) or even higher sidewall tires (255/40-18 or 235/45-18) are guaranteed to fair much better (1" per sidewall will make a difference). Of course 18" and 17" do get demaged too, but chances are far less and repair/replacement bills are much lower.
For 20" wheels in the North East, consider:
a. using higher profile tires that stock's diameter - 235/35-20 instead of 245/30-20;
b. regardless of tire size, use at least 40lbs cold tire pressure.
Since your bend is minor, both of the above might have prevented that bend in the first place and maybe would have saved the tire as well.
More importantly, and I'm sure you've heard it before, strongly consider using lower diameter wheels with higher sidewall tires for "winter" months (which could be upto 6 months due to bad road conditions). Stock wheels with stock tires (if you still have them, but also pumped to higher that "recommended" tire pressure) or even higher sidewall tires (255/40-18 or 235/45-18) are guaranteed to fair much better (1" per sidewall will make a difference). Of course 18" and 17" do get demaged too, but chances are far less and repair/replacement bills are much lower.
This is technically tampering with the odometer and one of the few things that will void your entire warranty.
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11-21-2011, 01:29 PM
#8
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Going to a tire size that changes the overall diameter of the tire is not a good idea. Not only do you run a better chance of running into interference with suspension or body bits, but you also will run into warranty issues.
This is technically tampering with the odometer and one of the few things that will void your entire warranty.
This is technically tampering with the odometer and one of the few things that will void your entire warranty.
Thanks for an other valueable advice. I do not post hypotetical staff. Only what was actually proven in my many years of modification. Being there, done all that.
Let me tell you that your credibilty in my eyes is ZERO. So do not post any replies to my posts as none are addressed to you. Better yet, do not read them at all.
PS: Ah, one more thing - go ask your dealer for advice! People ask here because they do not care what dealer (in most cases) has to say.
11-21-2011, 01:55 PM
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
Thanks for an other valueable advice. I do not post hypotetical staff. Only what was actually proven in my many years of modification. Being there, done all that.
Let me tell you that your credibilty in my eyes is ZERO. So do not post any replies to my posts as none are addressed to you. Better yet, do not read them at all.
PS: Ah, one more thing - go ask your dealer for advice! People ask here because they do not care what dealer (in most cases) has to say.
Let me tell you that your credibilty in my eyes is ZERO. So do not post any replies to my posts as none are addressed to you. Better yet, do not read them at all.
PS: Ah, one more thing - go ask your dealer for advice! People ask here because they do not care what dealer (in most cases) has to say.
Please show us on the board where any reputable tire or car manufacturer suggests that one use a tire that significantly changes (in this case by about an inch) the outside diameter of the tire.
If your blood pressure was elevated based upon my comment on odometer fraud, then here is an excerpt from the NHTSA Odometer Fraud website
"The federal government passed a law that requires a written disclosure of the mileage registered on an odometer be provided by the seller to the purchaser on the title to the vehicle when the ownership of a vehicle is transferred. If the odometer mileage is incorrect, the law requires a statement to that effect to be furnished on the title to the buyer."
Accordingly, it makes no difference in what direction the odometer is wrong - an incorrect odometer is one of things that can lead a manufacturer to void the warranty on a car. That is not conjecture, that is fact.
Will a manufacturer void a warranty because of incorrect tire sizing - probably not, but that part of your advice was just plain bad. The sad part is that your advice about minus sizing as much as possible for winter (or generally using smaller wheels with more sidewall to match the OE outside diameter) was valuable advice. That advice, unfortunately was lost in your incoherent attack on me.
Last edited by CEB; 11-21-2011 at 02:00 PM.
11-21-2011, 02:02 PM
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2010 ML550, 2010 E350 4M, 1966 Corvette Convt C2
You seem like a very angry person and you should seek professional help.
Please show us on the board where any reputable tire or car manufacturer suggests that one use a tire that significantly changes (in this case by about an inch) the outside diameter of the tire.
If your blood pressure was elevated based upon my comment on odometer fraud, then here is an excerpt from the NHTSA Odometer Fraud website
"The federal government passed a law that requires a written disclosure of the mileage registered on an odometer be provided by the seller to the purchaser on the title to the vehicle when the ownership of a vehicle is transferred. If the odometer mileage is incorrect, the law requires a statement to that effect to be furnished on the title to the buyer."
Accordingly, it makes no difference in what direction the odometer is wrong - an incorrect odometer is one of things that can lead a manufacturer to void the warranty on a car. That is not conjecture, that is fact.
Will a manufacturer void a warranty because of incorrect tire sizing - probably not, but that part of your advice was just plain bad.
Please show us on the board where any reputable tire or car manufacturer suggests that one use a tire that significantly changes (in this case by about an inch) the outside diameter of the tire.
If your blood pressure was elevated based upon my comment on odometer fraud, then here is an excerpt from the NHTSA Odometer Fraud website
"The federal government passed a law that requires a written disclosure of the mileage registered on an odometer be provided by the seller to the purchaser on the title to the vehicle when the ownership of a vehicle is transferred. If the odometer mileage is incorrect, the law requires a statement to that effect to be furnished on the title to the buyer."
Accordingly, it makes no difference in what direction the odometer is wrong - an incorrect odometer is one of things that can lead a manufacturer to void the warranty on a car. That is not conjecture, that is fact.
Will a manufacturer void a warranty because of incorrect tire sizing - probably not, but that part of your advice was just plain bad.
11-21-2011, 02:19 PM
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I think we're getting off topic. The issue of modifying one's car is a personal one. I'm not at all complaining about anything. I made a decision based on risk and am at peace with that. I know there's lots of posts about people going at each other for modifying vs stock, but I'm hoping we don't get into that. Now I'm only trying to find the best solution for my problem and I'm sure others who've had the same issue.
One thing I can say about my situation is that I was planning on increasing the inflation on my tires that morning, but didn't have time. I had noticed the drop given that the temps were getting colder. Usually, I have 38psi front and 40 rear, but they were each 2psi less. Wether that would've changed things, who knows, but it is possible.
One thing I can say about my situation is that I was planning on increasing the inflation on my tires that morning, but didn't have time. I had noticed the drop given that the temps were getting colder. Usually, I have 38psi front and 40 rear, but they were each 2psi less. Wether that would've changed things, who knows, but it is possible.
11-21-2011, 02:58 PM
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
Agree with you 100% I never understood why people would modify a perfectly good car with items that degrade not only its appearance but its relaibility. They pay no attention whatsoever to the reasons that a car was built the way it was thats backed by detailed engineering studies. they buy pure junk just so theirs may look a little different than any one elses. Then they complain about the car.
I think we're getting off topic. The issue of modifying one's car is a personal one. I'm not at all complaining about anything. I made a decision based on risk and am at peace with that. I know there's lots of posts about people going at each other for modifying vs stock, but I'm hoping we don't get into that. Now I'm only trying to find the best solution for my problem and I'm sure others who've had the same issue.
One thing I can say about my situation is that I was planning on increasing the inflation on my tires that morning, but didn't have time. I had noticed the drop given that the temps were getting colder. Usually, I have 38psi front and 40 rear, but they were each 2psi less. Wether that would've changed things, who knows, but it is possible.
One thing I can say about my situation is that I was planning on increasing the inflation on my tires that morning, but didn't have time. I had noticed the drop given that the temps were getting colder. Usually, I have 38psi front and 40 rear, but they were each 2psi less. Wether that would've changed things, who knows, but it is possible.
I believe that the only way to properly mod a car is to go in with both eyes open and having all the facts. That includes trying to determine all of the unintended consequences that may arise from a mod, assign a risk factor and decide if the pros outweigh the cons.
In this case, the OP found out about some of the unintended consequences of a ultra low profile tire on east coast streets. The proper resolution (especially for winter) is to use a smaller wheel with a taller sidewall thereby keeping the OE outside diameter. Just using a taller sidewall works as well, but then you can run into clearance and warranty issues. Anyone can decide to do what they want but a decision is difficult until you know all the facts and potential pitfalls.
Back to the subject at hand. HRE has suggested that they look at the wheel. If they believe that it can be fixed (and I see no reason why it shouldn't be possible) then the OP should contact them for some estimated pricing. Once repaired, the wheel will be as good as new.
11-21-2011, 03:55 PM
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That's lame Shaytun, my little accident(CURB) bent a few of my wheels......luckily for me
they're inexpensive at 250 each, so I just got a new set..........
probably not an option with 20 inch hre's huh? LOL.....
good luck.........death to potholes
they're inexpensive at 250 each, so I just got a new set..........
probably not an option with 20 inch hre's huh? LOL.....
good luck.........death to potholes
