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CAR WASH TIPS??
03-14-2012, 07:56 PM
#26
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? i guess just water and microfiber like k-a said is good enough 
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03-14-2012, 07:58 PM
#27
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Porsche Macan S SportDesign / Ex M-B's: 11 & 10 & 06 E350's, 02 S500
well whatever it is, I don't trust it OR them (ppl washing my car). Another thing that I see often: businesses with 100% HAND wash signs all over the place but when you look inside they force all the cars to go through the track thing and then hand DRY it. Whats the point of advertising 100% hand wash if you're gonna dry it only using the hard and abrasive rags that look nothing close to microfiber?
03-14-2012, 08:01 PM
#28
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04 CL55 (sold), 2012 CLS550 (sold), 2014 S550 (sold), 2015 ES300H (DAILY)
there was a thread about a guy who popped his Hankook V12's and it looked like he put his car through the track thing way too many times. Another reason why I will never...
03-14-2012, 09:10 PM
#29
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K-A, if you only wash your car with water, how do you put a barrier between your mitt and the paint to avoid swirls? Usually, the soap acts as a barrier by emulsifying the dirt and suspending the particles to prevent scratching
ON another note, MY BIGGEST FEAR IS THE DEALER FORGETTING NOT TO WASH MY CAR WHEN I TAKE IT IN FOR SERVICE! Last time I took my GL in for service, they washed the car even though I told them NOT to. The wheels were clean...they said "ohh, it rained." LIARS; I HATE THE DEALER
ON another note, MY BIGGEST FEAR IS THE DEALER FORGETTING NOT TO WASH MY CAR WHEN I TAKE IT IN FOR SERVICE! Last time I took my GL in for service, they washed the car even though I told them NOT to. The wheels were clean...they said "ohh, it rained." LIARS; I HATE THE DEALER
03-14-2012, 10:17 PM
#30
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Porsche Macan S SportDesign / Ex M-B's: 11 & 10 & 06 E350's, 02 S500
I basically keep the car waxed, so it's much easier to clean, and what I do it soak the spots in water that I'm washing, and clean them with a chamois. On Blue, Pewter, and White cars I've been very happy with the results, though I cannot speak on how the results would be on black cars. You have to be very gentle, and pay attention to make sure the spots you clean are well lubed with the water, and that the chamois is particle free (chamois are so dynamic and durable, easy to clean, etc. I couldn't be an enthusiast who keeps my cars clean without them).
My car has these "zipper patterned" scratch marks, very hard to see, and only visible under very distinct lights (gotta love non metallic white cars), which were on the car before I ever got it. They are VERY hard to get out, as I've used some pretty heavy compounds, to no avail. I've also had Dealers forgot to not wash my car when I told them not to. Now, I usually let them do it and just do a heavy once-twice-thrice over to make sure that they didn't damage anything.
My car has these "zipper patterned" scratch marks, very hard to see, and only visible under very distinct lights (gotta love non metallic white cars), which were on the car before I ever got it. They are VERY hard to get out, as I've used some pretty heavy compounds, to no avail. I've also had Dealers forgot to not wash my car when I told them not to. Now, I usually let them do it and just do a heavy once-twice-thrice over to make sure that they didn't damage anything.
03-14-2012, 10:38 PM
#31
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05,cl65;33ford3wc.
I use a local you operate the spray gun wash due to my hard water. The thing I'd like to add is the brisk drive home is a good way to warm/dry the brakes which I think is a good thing.
03-14-2012, 11:36 PM
#33
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2012 S350 Bluetec 4Matic, Diamond White, P2
I view mine as a damn fine car. I drive a lot of miles a year and know that stone chips etc. happen regardless of what you try to do. MB paint is very hard and the swirls are very hard to polish out by hand. Due to the hardness of the paint, most are very superficial, and I find that just a quick once over with Meguires 205 or Menzerna 106FA and my Flex gets them out quickly and leaves a "wet look" shine. Then I generally use a sealant rather than wax. looks good not much effort. I bought mine to drive the hell out of. You can't have it both ways. I figure maybe I will have the front repainted at some point when it gets really bad.
03-15-2012, 12:18 AM
#34
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Porsche Macan S SportDesign / Ex M-B's: 11 & 10 & 06 E350's, 02 S500
On another note, I did a full OCD scan of my car, checking the sides for any dings (you know, when you lean down at the front and rear wheel wells, looking down the line of your cars sheetmetal, to hope for a smooth and uncluttered surface of straight and perfect sheetmetal), and I found what appears to be my first.... A tiny little thing in between the chrome line on the front passenger door and the door handle. It's low enough so that I shouldn't care for it, and DAMN is it tiny, too small to even get a Dent Dr. to take it out (they'd surely laugh at me for bringing it in), but it bugs me!!
I guess you need to have one.... hopefully it stays that way.
03-15-2012, 10:17 AM
#36
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I am considering that clear plastic invisible covering for the front bumper to help with the stones and especially bugs, the kind you tend to see on Porsche's. Anyone have experience with these on an E or mercedes overall?
03-15-2012, 10:18 AM
#37
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I got the Wolfgang 3.0 Sealant Kit from then (with the paint prep) and very very impressed with the ease of use and results. Have only used it on the black ML so far but looks great. I let to "activate" for 18hours then topped off with Griot's best in show. Car looked better than ever.
03-15-2012, 11:30 AM
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E350 Coupe
My dealership gives unlimited car washes and so I decided to get one after a week of buying the 2012 E350. This free car wash resulted in swirl marks/scratches all over the car since they go through a drive-thru car wash. I told them and they gave me a free buffer to remove the swirl scratches. I've decided to wash my own car from now on. I wanted to know how you guys wash your cars. Do you guys use a waffle weave microfiber towel, squeegee for fast drying, mitts for washing? I need some good tips and advices to keep my car looking nice. Thanks in advance.
03-15-2012, 11:35 AM
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2010 E350 4Matic, 2012 ML350 4Matic
They're called 'clear bras'. I had one of those on my old 2004 Nissan Maxima. They're great for the first few years, but they do age and get a bit 'cloudy'. They do keep the stone chips away, but with anything else, they're not perfect. Make sure you find a good installer - it takes about four hours to do it right.
03-15-2012, 12:33 PM
#40
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2012 S350 Bluetec 4Matic, Diamond White, P2
Had that on cars too. It helps, but no where near as well as you would think. and it gets scratched and ripped too. I just try not to stress out over the inevitable. My front bumper is quite pitted, but, when cleaned up looks great, just not showroom new. But, how many cars with 32k miles on the odo driven on northern US salted highways still have the showroom look? My guess is zero.
Last edited by ImInPA; 03-15-2012 at 12:41 PM.
03-15-2012, 02:35 PM
#41
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Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it. I will probably pass on clear bra then. I agree its inevitable if you really put miles on a car. The annoying part for me is that the car is white and the day after I wash it it will look clean except maybe 10 splattered black bugs on the front bumper. Can take quick detailer to it but somehow don't like making a habit of it and I feel I always need to do the whole bumper then...
03-15-2012, 03:16 PM
#42
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2010 E350 Luxury Sedan, Engine 272 (V6)
I wash mine about every 3 months or so and wax about twice per year, but it stays in garage most of time so doesn't get real dirty. Use a good cleaner and wax from auto parts store. Nothing special, no clay bars, nothing that takes time or effort. Make soap in a bucket and rinse sponge in it. Did use the two bucket method today for first time-not sure it really helps.
One hour to wash and dry and one hour to wax and that is going over everything.
It's a car and has an excellent finish. That's why you pay extra for it.
Waxing really does nothing for appearance, but will protect it from tree sap, bird droppings, etc.
Biggest problem I had was windows. Used all the specialty window cleaners, etc. but still got streaking. Now, I use specialty window cleaner/paper towels and then go over windows with a damp microfiber towel for windows and this gets the streaking off.
My dealer has guy who hand washes and dries cars, so I let them do it a couple of times. Came out fine.
I have used the automatic conveyor belt places in the past and never had a problem, except with a black car, but that was 30 years ago. Still use them for my other cars and they look real good.
Guess one question for me will be using automatic and getting wash and wax every couple of weeks vs. hand wash every 3-4 months?
One hour to wash and dry and one hour to wax and that is going over everything.
It's a car and has an excellent finish. That's why you pay extra for it.
Waxing really does nothing for appearance, but will protect it from tree sap, bird droppings, etc.
Biggest problem I had was windows. Used all the specialty window cleaners, etc. but still got streaking. Now, I use specialty window cleaner/paper towels and then go over windows with a damp microfiber towel for windows and this gets the streaking off.
My dealer has guy who hand washes and dries cars, so I let them do it a couple of times. Came out fine.
I have used the automatic conveyor belt places in the past and never had a problem, except with a black car, but that was 30 years ago. Still use them for my other cars and they look real good.
Guess one question for me will be using automatic and getting wash and wax every couple of weeks vs. hand wash every 3-4 months?
03-15-2012, 07:04 PM
#43
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2012 E350
I've used Adam's products for a while, they've worked great on my Porsche and just started to use them on my 2012 W212. They are on the expensive side but I have no complaints, just don't use too much detail spray or the surface of the car will be a bit "sticky".
I use the following to wash (every week unless is raining)
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-384-a...wash-trio.aspx
After each wash I use the Detail Spray (every week unless is raining)
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-96-ad...ollection.aspx
And every two to three months I glaze and wax
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-566-a...shine-kit.aspx
Good luck.
I use the following to wash (every week unless is raining)
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-384-a...wash-trio.aspx
After each wash I use the Detail Spray (every week unless is raining)
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-96-ad...ollection.aspx
And every two to three months I glaze and wax
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-566-a...shine-kit.aspx
Good luck.
03-15-2012, 10:44 PM
#44
If you want the dealer not to wash your car, you can reinforce this message by placing your own home-made sign (I did with a printer) that says "No Wash" (iin multiple languages)
Unfortunately most dealers I've seen are just not setup to wash a car properly IMO without inflicting damage.
The two-bucket method with grit guards in both wash and rinse bucket (double) and sheepskin mitt I've found to be safe and effective.
Unfortunately most dealers I've seen are just not setup to wash a car properly IMO without inflicting damage.
The two-bucket method with grit guards in both wash and rinse bucket (double) and sheepskin mitt I've found to be safe and effective.
Last edited by mbuster25; 03-15-2012 at 10:45 PM. Reason: fix
03-16-2012, 01:01 PM
#45
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03-16-2012, 01:48 PM
#46
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Here is a detailed W212 E350 ,enjoy folks , it includes video too 
http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/de...-detail-68044/
http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/de...-detail-68044/
03-16-2012, 03:30 PM
#47
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Porsche Macan S SportDesign / Ex M-B's: 11 & 10 & 06 E350's, 02 S500
Thanks for sharing. Am I mistaken or did he pour alcohol on the car before waxing? Is that recommended?
03-16-2012, 03:44 PM
#48
Super Member
Yes, it is a piece of metal (and plastic in a lot of places, mind you!) but darker colored cars show everything. It was only until very recently did I start washing my own cars. Before a year ago, I washed my own cars occasionally, but took it down to the car wash about once every three weeks to a month. My cars got random isolated deep scratches, the people did a sh*tty job, and I don't trust them to keep my car clean. They had ten cars ahead and in back of me...why would they decide to spend time on mine? They didn't clean under the rear bumper, they didn't dry the door jams completely, and there were hard water spots on the bumpers since they didn't dry the car completely, which normally takes me 1-2 hours alone.
SO...Every weekend, I wash either the S, E, or GL. I wash the E more frequently because it's black and I like to keep it new (Very few swirls and only 5.5K miles!). The GL is covered in swirls from commercial car washes (but it's silver, so it hides them well during the day), and I did a 60-70% paint correction on my S550 the other weekend.
Every time I wash the car, I put approximately 5 hours of time aside (7 for the GL, 6 for the S550; this doesn't include interior cleaning). I spend half an hour for loosening dirt with just a hose and a foam gun, two hours of careful car washing with a merino wool wash mitt (I start with top, then hood, then top of doors where the sun hits the paint, then the top of the trunk, then the rest of the doors, the front fender, the rear bumper, the front bumper, and then the rest of the glass), two hours to dry/wax as I dry, and then half an hour to do any finishing touches (exhaust tips, cleaning up water from crevices, compressed air).
This is nothing in comparison to the 17 hour detail I did on my S 2 weeks ago, which was split between me and my brother (that's a total of 34 frickin' hours).
Don't do extensive details. Just wash your car yourself, don't let it get trashed by commercial people that don't know how to take care of paint, and you should be fine.
Here are some tips specifically for the E:
- Make sure you don't forget about cleaning underneath the rear bumper (behind the rear wheels)
- Make sure you don't forget about the exhaust tips. Mine may be scratched from towels, but at least they don't have rust on them like my neighbor's. They are a little hard to clean completely
- A lot of water seeps from the side mirrors after washing so use compressed air, or drive the car around until the water falls from the mirrors. Wipe up the excess
- If you have a black car, blot the car dry to avoid swirls
- Don't forget to clean the side sills! I forgot yesterday when I washed the car and had to use a LOT of quick detailer to loosen the dirt and wipe it away.
- Personally, I don't even use a wash bucket. I'm too afraid of lodged particulates scratching the paint, so I rinse my mitt after every panel and keep it wet by hosing it down. I put the car wash soap directly on the mitt or panel. Yes, this means one bottle of car wash soap only lasts me 2-3 car washes, but boy is it effective at keeping swirls away and cleanup a little easier.
- I use Zaino towels (100% cotton Supina hydroloop towels made in America) - these don't scratch; at least the yellow ones don't (the white ones do after a lot of machine washing; Only available online)
- I use a Merino wool wash mitt (Heavy, holds a lot of suds, real wool, really awesome mitt! Only available online)
- I use Turtle Ice Car wash and every time I dry the car, I wax it using Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax. This is of course, after I already have a layer of thick wax or a sealant underneath, from Zaino, Klasse, Blackfire or Menzerna.
- NOTE: The glossy black pillars between the front and rear seat windows scratch VERY easily. Be extra careful
SO...Every weekend, I wash either the S, E, or GL. I wash the E more frequently because it's black and I like to keep it new (Very few swirls and only 5.5K miles!). The GL is covered in swirls from commercial car washes (but it's silver, so it hides them well during the day), and I did a 60-70% paint correction on my S550 the other weekend.
Every time I wash the car, I put approximately 5 hours of time aside (7 for the GL, 6 for the S550; this doesn't include interior cleaning). I spend half an hour for loosening dirt with just a hose and a foam gun, two hours of careful car washing with a merino wool wash mitt (I start with top, then hood, then top of doors where the sun hits the paint, then the top of the trunk, then the rest of the doors, the front fender, the rear bumper, the front bumper, and then the rest of the glass), two hours to dry/wax as I dry, and then half an hour to do any finishing touches (exhaust tips, cleaning up water from crevices, compressed air).
This is nothing in comparison to the 17 hour detail I did on my S 2 weeks ago, which was split between me and my brother (that's a total of 34 frickin' hours).
Don't do extensive details. Just wash your car yourself, don't let it get trashed by commercial people that don't know how to take care of paint, and you should be fine.
Here are some tips specifically for the E:
- Make sure you don't forget about cleaning underneath the rear bumper (behind the rear wheels)
- Make sure you don't forget about the exhaust tips. Mine may be scratched from towels, but at least they don't have rust on them like my neighbor's. They are a little hard to clean completely
- A lot of water seeps from the side mirrors after washing so use compressed air, or drive the car around until the water falls from the mirrors. Wipe up the excess
- If you have a black car, blot the car dry to avoid swirls
- Don't forget to clean the side sills! I forgot yesterday when I washed the car and had to use a LOT of quick detailer to loosen the dirt and wipe it away.
- Personally, I don't even use a wash bucket. I'm too afraid of lodged particulates scratching the paint, so I rinse my mitt after every panel and keep it wet by hosing it down. I put the car wash soap directly on the mitt or panel. Yes, this means one bottle of car wash soap only lasts me 2-3 car washes, but boy is it effective at keeping swirls away and cleanup a little easier.
- I use Zaino towels (100% cotton Supina hydroloop towels made in America) - these don't scratch; at least the yellow ones don't (the white ones do after a lot of machine washing; Only available online)
- I use a Merino wool wash mitt (Heavy, holds a lot of suds, real wool, really awesome mitt! Only available online)
- I use Turtle Ice Car wash and every time I dry the car, I wax it using Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax. This is of course, after I already have a layer of thick wax or a sealant underneath, from Zaino, Klasse, Blackfire or Menzerna.
- NOTE: The glossy black pillars between the front and rear seat windows scratch VERY easily. Be extra careful
FIVE TO SEVEN HOURS per car every weekend!
Jezuuszz!
.
03-16-2012, 06:07 PM
#49
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. i've never washed car by myself for years 
.
03-17-2012, 09:14 AM
#50
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2011 E-350
I have discussed my OCD issues in various threads so I won't go into my routine of cleaning my cars. I will say, my close friends always kid me about "driving my car for an hour and cleaning it for three." That's not completely acurate but somewhat in the ballpark. Three of my four vehicles, you can eat off the engine compartment and the wheel wells. This does not include my "rain truck," although it is still the cleanest rain truck in town. I never leave the driveway in a dirty car, except for the rain truck on occasion.
Primarily, I wanted to share my recipe for window cleaner with you if anyone is interested. I got it from the Corvette forum in 1999 and have used it ever since. My wife discovered how good it was we started using it in the house, on windows and mirrors and anything else with a hard smooth finish, like the kitchen counter tops and breakfast bar.
Two things I will state for a fact. This will never leave streaks and smears when you use a good clean micro fiber rag or cotton terry cloth towel. Although the receipe has some ammonia in it...I guarantee you, it will not harm your tint. In addition to everyone of my vehicles, we also had all the windows in our house tinted about four years ago and this clearner has not harmed them in any way. Of course, when tint is involved I have always sprayed it on the rag first, instead of directly to the window. That may not be necessary, but it is just the routine I established for myself.
In addition, I took delivery of my 03 Vette on December 20th, 2002 and had the windows tinted on December 27th. I have been using this cleaner on it ever since with no issues on the tint.
The recipe is: 1/2 Cup clear ammonia, 1 pint of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), 1 teaspoon Liquid Dawn detergent, and mix with water to make one full gallon. As I said, this receipe came from the Corvette forum many years ago, so some of you may have seen it before. It outperforms anything on the market and I have tried them all, over the years.
Primarily, I wanted to share my recipe for window cleaner with you if anyone is interested. I got it from the Corvette forum in 1999 and have used it ever since. My wife discovered how good it was we started using it in the house, on windows and mirrors and anything else with a hard smooth finish, like the kitchen counter tops and breakfast bar.
Two things I will state for a fact. This will never leave streaks and smears when you use a good clean micro fiber rag or cotton terry cloth towel. Although the receipe has some ammonia in it...I guarantee you, it will not harm your tint. In addition to everyone of my vehicles, we also had all the windows in our house tinted about four years ago and this clearner has not harmed them in any way. Of course, when tint is involved I have always sprayed it on the rag first, instead of directly to the window. That may not be necessary, but it is just the routine I established for myself.
In addition, I took delivery of my 03 Vette on December 20th, 2002 and had the windows tinted on December 27th. I have been using this cleaner on it ever since with no issues on the tint.
The recipe is: 1/2 Cup clear ammonia, 1 pint of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), 1 teaspoon Liquid Dawn detergent, and mix with water to make one full gallon. As I said, this receipe came from the Corvette forum many years ago, so some of you may have seen it before. It outperforms anything on the market and I have tried them all, over the years.
