AMG Sport Rotors need to be replaced at 30,000
01-03-2013, 11:01 PM
#26
MBWorld Fanatic!
Agree with the comment on the wheel nuts being torqued correctly.
Just to endorse your point, I had an incident !!!I was driving my car a BMW 6 Series, when the first nut started to loosen on the wheel, (clearly I was unaware) I was travelling on a 400 mile trip, as the nut loosened it impacted the brakes fairly quickly but subtly, cutting a long description short, when I went into the BMW dealer, 100 miles into my journey as an emergency ( my car had runflats and no damn wheel brace, always carry one now!!!!), they had to take the car out again to diagnose the problem, when they first returned they said they could find nothing until he had to brake hard turning into their forecourt, then he felt the effect. Once diagnosed we got into a discussion, he said that the brake rotor had moved off centre on the hub, (remember they are held on by one bolt), he said it was only a few mills but is enough to unbalance the disc, which over time would have resulted in a disc failure, ie warping. He then explained to me the in and outs of correctly torqued bolts and the effect they can have!! needless to say I torque and check regularly my wheel bolts, to the correct settings.
finally how did it happen, I had had my wheel refurbished and when they put the wheel back on there were two things wrong, one they were definitely under torqued and second the face on one of the bolts had paint on it which almost acted as a lubricant which caused the first bolt to come loose then it followed that the other four bolts then started to undo!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lucky to be Alive as I was travelling very quickly nod nod wink wink !!!!
Just to endorse your point, I had an incident !!!I was driving my car a BMW 6 Series, when the first nut started to loosen on the wheel, (clearly I was unaware) I was travelling on a 400 mile trip, as the nut loosened it impacted the brakes fairly quickly but subtly, cutting a long description short, when I went into the BMW dealer, 100 miles into my journey as an emergency ( my car had runflats and no damn wheel brace, always carry one now!!!!), they had to take the car out again to diagnose the problem, when they first returned they said they could find nothing until he had to brake hard turning into their forecourt, then he felt the effect. Once diagnosed we got into a discussion, he said that the brake rotor had moved off centre on the hub, (remember they are held on by one bolt), he said it was only a few mills but is enough to unbalance the disc, which over time would have resulted in a disc failure, ie warping. He then explained to me the in and outs of correctly torqued bolts and the effect they can have!! needless to say I torque and check regularly my wheel bolts, to the correct settings.
finally how did it happen, I had had my wheel refurbished and when they put the wheel back on there were two things wrong, one they were definitely under torqued and second the face on one of the bolts had paint on it which almost acted as a lubricant which caused the first bolt to come loose then it followed that the other four bolts then started to undo!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lucky to be Alive as I was travelling very quickly nod nod wink wink !!!!
One thing to know about the torque on the lug nuts is that they just need to be tight enough so they do not work themselves loose. Torque wrench is used, if someone cares to use one, to make sure the nuts are tight enough but it does not matter how much more tight they are unless you overtighten to a point that you break one.
As long as the lug nuts (or bolts) are tight enough to to keep them from working themselves loose it does not have absolutely anything to do with brake rotor warping.
Anybody can believe what they want. A dealer telling about correct torqueing of the bolts is their way to get rid of the responsibility to replace poor quality brake rotors under warranty. This does not make business sense as MB would pay them but they must have some sort of deals with MB for warranty jobs. They would like it much more to do brake job on the customer's dime.
This is why NOBODY should go to an MB dealer to do the brake job and pay for it. Much better quality brake components available from third party suppliers.
01-03-2013, 11:37 PM
#27
Super Member
DITTO, 2011 E550, at 9,000 miles. All four rotors measured out of spec for runout by MB service. MB replaced four rotors and pads. Now at 30,000 miles and holding my breath. At 30,000 mile service, MB techs remarked (on the sheet) that the front brake pads looked brand new.
LI42.10-P-054524 SEPT12 – 212.072/090/272 front brake vibration. Thickness fault on brake disk replace pads and disks.
It is probably intentionally vague so everyone doesn't run to their dealer asking for new brakes. But I remember seeing some threads going into this with the drilled/slotted rotors on the sports.
disk brakes have been around for a while and frankly issues like this are really unacceptable. Because MB has these issues (rotors, ridiculous dust etc) at all makes me much less confident in other areas as well
. Whether it is warranted or not I will be using aftermarket brake parts when it is time. I heard good things about EBC and I have used Akebono with excellent results.
01-03-2013, 11:50 PM
#28
Super Member
And don't get me started on brake jobs!!! The book calls for 1 hr labor to do pads per axle, and another 1 hr labor for rotors. The problem is that the 1 hr for rotors assumes that you are taking the rotors off from scratch, but they already took the calipers off to get at the pads. It takes 5 minutes to take off the old rotor (1 alignment bolt and perhaps a easy whack with a rubber mallet or two) and then slide in the new one and some goop. Not to mention the fact that pretty much any tech that has done this a couple times can do each axle in about a half an hour. 1 hrs work for $500 (depending on your rate of course). My lawyer doesn't get that much. Many indys do this as well, but not all.
01-04-2013, 12:16 AM
#29
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Hmmm...I wonder how many of the cars requiring early rotor replacement also had Sprint Boosters installed?
Per the ad, "As a result, your car feels faster, reacts faster and drives faster."
That must wear on the brakes...faster?
Per the ad, "As a result, your car feels faster, reacts faster and drives faster."
That must wear on the brakes...faster?
01-04-2013, 06:57 PM
#30
MBWorld Fanatic!
And don't get me started on brake jobs!!! The book calls for 1 hr labor to do pads per axle, and another 1 hr labor for rotors. The problem is that the 1 hr for rotors assumes that you are taking the rotors off from scratch, but they already took the calipers off to get at the pads. It takes 5 minutes to take off the old rotor (1 alignment bolt and perhaps a easy whack with a rubber mallet or two) and then slide in the new one and some goop. Not to mention the fact that pretty much any tech that has done this a couple times can do each axle in about a half an hour. 1 hrs work for $500 (depending on your rate of course). My lawyer doesn't get that much. Many indys do this as well, but not all.
The front calipers are not removed for pad change. Rear calipers are.
01-04-2013, 09:25 PM
#31
Super Member
Interesting, how do you resurface the rotors (which I should have included in the brake pad job earlier)
01-05-2013, 12:02 PM
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
I assume you are asking related to my post?
My question to you is: Why would you resurface the rotors if you don't have warped rotors?
Rotors wear grooves to them and the pads wear into those grooves. With new pads the first contact between the pad and rotor is at top of the grooves. Here is when the brake PEDDING comes to the picture. After replacing the pads you can use the brakes very hard for several stops to get the pads to wear to those grooves on the rotors, thats all.
Brake job garages have done a very good job with getting this BS in peoples minds that the brake rotors need to be resurfaces when pads are changed. There is absolutely no need for this if the rotor is not warped. If it is done just to get rid of the worn grooves on the rotor then this resurfacing job would have to be done right after you see those grooves on the new or resurfaced rotors again, i.e. just a few thousand miles after the job was done but nobody comes to tell you to go resurface your rotors. They only tell you about it when you have the pads changed, i.e. when they see the opportunity to make more money off of you. Resurfacing also removes material faster from the rotor so during the next pad job they will tell you that you need new rotors...its all business.
I have never resurfaced any brake rotors but have changed pads in very many cars. I have replaced worn out rotors once as they were below minimum thickness.
Also, I have never had any brake squeel issues other than with my old Lincoln Mark VII LSC. This excellent car had this problem (American made car with the best ABS brake system I have ever seen in my life including the current E 550) and I fixed it by changing the pads to a third party parts.
01-05-2013, 02:26 PM
#33
Super Member
I assume you are asking related to my post?
My question to you is: Why would you resurface the rotors if you don't have warped rotors?
Rotors wear grooves to them and the pads wear into those grooves. With new pads the first contact between the pad and rotor is at top of the grooves. Here is when the brake PEDDING comes to the picture. After replacing the pads you can use the brakes very hard for several stops to get the pads to wear to those grooves on the rotors, thats all.
Brake job garages have done a very good job with getting this BS in peoples minds that the brake rotors need to be resurfaces when pads are changed. There is absolutely no need for this if the rotor is not warped. If it is done just to get rid of the worn grooves on the rotor then this resurfacing job would have to be done right after you see those grooves on the new or resurfaced rotors again, i.e. just a few thousand miles after the job was done but nobody comes to tell you to go resurface your rotors. They only tell you about it when you have the pads changed, i.e. when they see the opportunity to make more money off of you. Resurfacing also removes material faster from the rotor so during the next pad job they will tell you that you need new rotors...its all business.
I have never resurfaced any brake rotors but have changed pads in very many cars. I have replaced worn out rotors once as they were below minimum thickness.
Also, I have never had any brake squeel issues other than with my old Lincoln Mark VII LSC. This excellent car had this problem (American made car with the best ABS brake system I have ever seen in my life including the current E 550) and I fixed it by changing the pads to a third party parts.
My question to you is: Why would you resurface the rotors if you don't have warped rotors?
Rotors wear grooves to them and the pads wear into those grooves. With new pads the first contact between the pad and rotor is at top of the grooves. Here is when the brake PEDDING comes to the picture. After replacing the pads you can use the brakes very hard for several stops to get the pads to wear to those grooves on the rotors, thats all.
Brake job garages have done a very good job with getting this BS in peoples minds that the brake rotors need to be resurfaces when pads are changed. There is absolutely no need for this if the rotor is not warped. If it is done just to get rid of the worn grooves on the rotor then this resurfacing job would have to be done right after you see those grooves on the new or resurfaced rotors again, i.e. just a few thousand miles after the job was done but nobody comes to tell you to go resurface your rotors. They only tell you about it when you have the pads changed, i.e. when they see the opportunity to make more money off of you. Resurfacing also removes material faster from the rotor so during the next pad job they will tell you that you need new rotors...its all business.
I have never resurfaced any brake rotors but have changed pads in very many cars. I have replaced worn out rotors once as they were below minimum thickness.
Also, I have never had any brake squeel issues other than with my old Lincoln Mark VII LSC. This excellent car had this problem (American made car with the best ABS brake system I have ever seen in my life including the current E 550) and I fixed it by changing the pads to a third party parts.
The problem I have with your argument is that you seem to indicate that resurfacing is done at an extra cost. I have not found this to be true at least at the two indy's that I have used. If the deepest groove is within spec, they turn the rotors and that is included in the price of the brake job. I typically only get 2 sets of pads per set of rotors.
What are they trying to gain by doing extra work (granted it is not that much because they simply take off the rotor and put it on the machine and then go do the other side)?
Once the pads wear on the rotors they mate up with the grooves so the full surface is making even contact with the rotors so you don't need to resurface the rotors after the pads are put on. In fact you don't want to do this because the rotors will be smooth and the pads won't be because they have worn to the rotors.
I also don't believe you should turn warped rotors. Once they are warped they are no good. This only happened to me once and my indy recommended tossing them with a bunch of reasons that I can't remember.
Now I haven't done my own brakes for a number of years, I found a good indy and at $125 per axle labor, I'd prefer to let them do it. Plus the last time I did it I smacked my knuckle real good because I wasn't careful sort of soured me on the process. Maybe things have changed recently regarding rotors etc. regardless I will still be turning rotors between replacement. I even think that dealers and many indy's are always recommending replacing rotors, they don't even measure. weak!
Last edited by ddeliber; 01-05-2013 at 03:32 PM.
01-06-2013, 11:26 AM
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
I guess we are going to disagree on this one. Resurfacing gives a flat even surface for the new pads to mate up with. It makes it so the pads wear evenly from the start and the pads last longer. Plus there is a much higher probability that the brakes will squeel if the rotors are not turned, smaller contact surface and higher pressure points not evenly distributed across the pads.
The problem I have with your argument is that you seem to indicate that resurfacing is done at an extra cost. I have not found this to be true at least at the two indy's that I have used. If the deepest groove is within spec, they turn the rotors and that is included in the price of the brake job. I typically only get 2 sets of pads per set of rotors.
What are they trying to gain by doing extra work (granted it is not that much because they simply take off the rotor and put it on the machine and then go do the other side)?
Once the pads wear on the rotors they mate up with the grooves so the full surface is making even contact with the rotors so you don't need to resurface the rotors after the pads are put on. In fact you don't want to do this because the rotors will be smooth and the pads won't be because they have worn to the rotors.
I also don't believe you should turn warped rotors. Once they are warped they are no good. This only happened to me once and my indy recommended tossing them with a bunch of reasons that I can't remember.
Now I haven't done my own brakes for a number of years, I found a good indy and at $125 per axle labor, I'd prefer to let them do it. Plus the last time I did it I smacked my knuckle real good because I wasn't careful sort of soured me on the process. Maybe things have changed recently regarding rotors etc. regardless I will still be turning rotors between replacement. I even think that dealers and many indy's are always recommending replacing rotors, they don't even measure. weak!
The problem I have with your argument is that you seem to indicate that resurfacing is done at an extra cost. I have not found this to be true at least at the two indy's that I have used. If the deepest groove is within spec, they turn the rotors and that is included in the price of the brake job. I typically only get 2 sets of pads per set of rotors.
What are they trying to gain by doing extra work (granted it is not that much because they simply take off the rotor and put it on the machine and then go do the other side)?
Once the pads wear on the rotors they mate up with the grooves so the full surface is making even contact with the rotors so you don't need to resurface the rotors after the pads are put on. In fact you don't want to do this because the rotors will be smooth and the pads won't be because they have worn to the rotors.
I also don't believe you should turn warped rotors. Once they are warped they are no good. This only happened to me once and my indy recommended tossing them with a bunch of reasons that I can't remember.
Now I haven't done my own brakes for a number of years, I found a good indy and at $125 per axle labor, I'd prefer to let them do it. Plus the last time I did it I smacked my knuckle real good because I wasn't careful sort of soured me on the process. Maybe things have changed recently regarding rotors etc. regardless I will still be turning rotors between replacement. I even think that dealers and many indy's are always recommending replacing rotors, they don't even measure. weak!
Yes, you are right. We are not going to agree on this but we do have the right for that, right?
If the rotor has worn grooves to it these grooves are perfectly round around the rotor. After resurfacing the rotor it will develop these grooves again very fast. The grooves are a result of imperfect material hardness across the rotor and the pads. Also some hard particles like sand getting between the pad and rotor can make the grooves. But no matter how the grooves formed the pads will wear to the groove shape.
The grooves actually increase the pad-to-rotor contact area so in theory the pad life can be longer than with the smooth pad after the pads wear in the grooves on the rotor surface. This is why you want to use new pads hard for some time when replacing pads but not resurfacing the rotors so that you wear the new pads quickly to match the rotor surface.
Another story then is, of course, if for some reason your rotor has worn to an uneven thickness between the outer and inner radius. This would make the new pad to not sit square against the caliper pistons and this would be a problem and require resurfacing the rotors.
What comes to warped rotors I also disagree. Rotors get warped because of the heat impact in a poorly manufactured rotor. Poorly manufactured means there are residual heat stresses in the rotor as a result of poor casting process / material. These stresses release when the rotor heats up during braking and causes warped rotor.
Now, after the rotor gets warped from the heat impact it won't do it again. This means that resurfaced warped rotor can actually be better than a new one as it is insensitive to the heat stress release.
For the cost side of the brake job, I have not seen a garage yet that does not have a separate pricing for just a pad change and the whole job including turning the rotors.
I also want to point out the fact that the front pads on the E are extremely easy to change without taking the calipers off. Wonder why they designed it this way if the meaning is to resurface the rotors every time you change the pads?
01-07-2013, 03:16 PM
#35
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01-07-2013, 04:43 PM
#36
Super Member
Yes, you are right. We are not going to agree on this but we do have the right for that, right?
If the rotor has worn grooves to it these grooves are perfectly round around the rotor. After resurfacing the rotor it will develop these grooves again very fast. The grooves are a result of imperfect material hardness across the rotor and the pads. Also some hard particles like sand getting between the pad and rotor can make the grooves. But no matter how the grooves formed the pads will wear to the groove shape.
The grooves actually increase the pad-to-rotor contact area so in theory the pad life can be longer than with the smooth pad after the pads wear in the grooves on the rotor surface. This is why you want to use new pads hard for some time when replacing pads but not resurfacing the rotors so that you wear the new pads quickly to match the rotor surface.
Another story then is, of course, if for some reason your rotor has worn to an uneven thickness between the outer and inner radius. This would make the new pad to not sit square against the caliper pistons and this would be a problem and require resurfacing the rotors.
What comes to warped rotors I also disagree. Rotors get warped because of the heat impact in a poorly manufactured rotor. Poorly manufactured means there are residual heat stresses in the rotor as a result of poor casting process / material. These stresses release when the rotor heats up during braking and causes warped rotor.
Now, after the rotor gets warped from the heat impact it won't do it again. This means that resurfaced warped rotor can actually be better than a new one as it is insensitive to the heat stress release.
For the cost side of the brake job, I have not seen a garage yet that does not have a separate pricing for just a pad change and the whole job including turning the rotors.
I also want to point out the fact that the front pads on the E are extremely easy to change without taking the calipers off. Wonder why they designed it this way if the meaning is to resurface the rotors every time you change the pads?
If the rotor has worn grooves to it these grooves are perfectly round around the rotor. After resurfacing the rotor it will develop these grooves again very fast. The grooves are a result of imperfect material hardness across the rotor and the pads. Also some hard particles like sand getting between the pad and rotor can make the grooves. But no matter how the grooves formed the pads will wear to the groove shape.
The grooves actually increase the pad-to-rotor contact area so in theory the pad life can be longer than with the smooth pad after the pads wear in the grooves on the rotor surface. This is why you want to use new pads hard for some time when replacing pads but not resurfacing the rotors so that you wear the new pads quickly to match the rotor surface.
Another story then is, of course, if for some reason your rotor has worn to an uneven thickness between the outer and inner radius. This would make the new pad to not sit square against the caliper pistons and this would be a problem and require resurfacing the rotors.
What comes to warped rotors I also disagree. Rotors get warped because of the heat impact in a poorly manufactured rotor. Poorly manufactured means there are residual heat stresses in the rotor as a result of poor casting process / material. These stresses release when the rotor heats up during braking and causes warped rotor.
Now, after the rotor gets warped from the heat impact it won't do it again. This means that resurfaced warped rotor can actually be better than a new one as it is insensitive to the heat stress release.
For the cost side of the brake job, I have not seen a garage yet that does not have a separate pricing for just a pad change and the whole job including turning the rotors.
I also want to point out the fact that the front pads on the E are extremely easy to change without taking the calipers off. Wonder why they designed it this way if the meaning is to resurface the rotors every time you change the pads?
You have made a number of good points, some in conjunction to what I have said and believe, some I disagree with, but this is ok, I won't and haven't gotten upset or anything and it appears you feel the same way.
No need to go into a long drawn out debate on this, especially because many if not most people simply toss their rotors whenever they do a brake job which both of us agree is not what should be done.
I will make one last point that I neglected to mention earlier: A couple years ago on my previous car (an Infiniti) there was an issue with the one brake pad where the pad itself cracked within a year of my last brake job. I took it in to my indy and he said that he would do a pad slap (his words) for free where he would just put some new pads on (both sides) and that is it because he didn't think it was a good idea to turn the rotors again based on thickness. However, he advised me that this will probably cause a mild vibration and some squeaking for a little while along with a bunch of other things that lines up with what I mentioned in my previous reply. I told him to ahead and man they were loud. Every time I touched the brakes for something like 2 weeks they screamed. It slowly subsided and after a while everything worked fine. I really hated driving my car while this was going on and yes I bedded the brakes repeatedly. This along with the pad life stuff (which I'll admit is pretty much not verifiable) is why I believe in turning the rotors if they are thick enough.
01-07-2013, 07:47 PM
#37
MBWorld Fanatic!
I assume you are asking related to my post?
My question to you is: Why would you resurface the rotors if you don't have warped rotors?
Rotors wear grooves to them and the pads wear into those grooves. With new pads the first contact between the pad and rotor is at top of the grooves. Here is when the brake PEDDING comes to the picture. After replacing the pads you can use the brakes very hard for several stops to get the pads to wear to those grooves on the rotors, thats all.
Brake job garages have done a very good job with getting this BS in peoples minds that the brake rotors need to be resurfaces when pads are changed. There is absolutely no need for this if the rotor is not warped. If it is done just to get rid of the worn grooves on the rotor then this resurfacing job would have to be done right after you see those grooves on the new or resurfaced rotors again, i.e. just a few thousand miles after the job was done but nobody comes to tell you to go resurface your rotors. They only tell you about it when you have the pads changed, i.e. when they see the opportunity to make more money off of you. Resurfacing also removes material faster from the rotor so during the next pad job they will tell you that you need new rotors...its all business.
I have never resurfaced any brake rotors but have changed pads in very many cars. I have replaced worn out rotors once as they were below minimum thickness.
Also, I have never had any brake squeel issues other than with my old Lincoln Mark VII LSC. This excellent car had this problem (American made car with the best ABS brake system I have ever seen in my life including the current E 550) and I fixed it by changing the pads to a third party parts.
My question to you is: Why would you resurface the rotors if you don't have warped rotors?
Rotors wear grooves to them and the pads wear into those grooves. With new pads the first contact between the pad and rotor is at top of the grooves. Here is when the brake PEDDING comes to the picture. After replacing the pads you can use the brakes very hard for several stops to get the pads to wear to those grooves on the rotors, thats all.
Brake job garages have done a very good job with getting this BS in peoples minds that the brake rotors need to be resurfaces when pads are changed. There is absolutely no need for this if the rotor is not warped. If it is done just to get rid of the worn grooves on the rotor then this resurfacing job would have to be done right after you see those grooves on the new or resurfaced rotors again, i.e. just a few thousand miles after the job was done but nobody comes to tell you to go resurface your rotors. They only tell you about it when you have the pads changed, i.e. when they see the opportunity to make more money off of you. Resurfacing also removes material faster from the rotor so during the next pad job they will tell you that you need new rotors...its all business.
I have never resurfaced any brake rotors but have changed pads in very many cars. I have replaced worn out rotors once as they were below minimum thickness.
Also, I have never had any brake squeel issues other than with my old Lincoln Mark VII LSC. This excellent car had this problem (American made car with the best ABS brake system I have ever seen in my life including the current E 550) and I fixed it by changing the pads to a third party parts.
When you factor the labor cost of resurfacing the rotors or replacing them, you are better going with new rotors for an extra 50.00. Then you are back to factory new.
01-07-2013, 09:23 PM
#38
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have never had a car long enough to do a brake job but I know it's a waste of money if you don't turn down the rotors because they have an uneven surface and will wear the pads prematurely.
When you factor the labor cost of resurfacing the rotors or replacing them, you are better going with new rotors for an extra 50.00. Then you are back to factory new.
When you factor the labor cost of resurfacing the rotors or replacing them, you are better going with new rotors for an extra 50.00. Then you are back to factory new.
I have never had any problems with any pads I changed in any car. Perhaps I used good enough pads for the jobs...
01-07-2013, 11:42 PM
#39
MBWorld Fanatic!
01-08-2013, 12:02 AM
#40
Super Member
Maybe on a 550, but mine had 25k with 8 mm left (10mm new) front and back pads when I bought it (had them measured to be sure when I had my winter tires put on). But then again, gramma driving under the speed limit could have had it before me.
01-08-2013, 06:13 PM
#41
MBWorld Fanatic!
It was probably in highway use.
I had a Tahoe and put 114 000 miles on it. The original pads looked almost like new after all those miles. I drove it 90% on highway.
01-09-2013, 12:27 PM
#42
I had an 09 C63 that i did 50/50 highway/city and it had 18k on it when traded. it met the standards for CPO and did not require brakes eventhough the dealer thought it would because as they say "all AMGs need brakes at that mileage to meet CPO." I did however use the gearbox some to decel. On a pathfinder i got 90K miles before brakes were needed but it was about 75/25 highway/city. Ill post something here when i have my E350 B done in a few thousand miles if the dealer gives me measurements.
01-09-2013, 02:45 PM
#43
Senior Member
The brakes on the E class do have some sort of issue. Underpowered I suspect for the vehicle's weight, lack of proper cooling or the pads take far longer to bed than 250 miles.
Last edited by thekurgan; 01-09-2013 at 02:56 PM. Reason: poor speller
05-22-2013, 07:02 PM
#44
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Live at 1800 feet, Cascades. Wife's C63 back and forth to library. She drives moderately. The front and rear rotors are within .030"-.050" discard values at 24K miles. So the descent is the main factor.
If you change your wheels yourself you can read the rotor thicknesses with a little partience and a vernier or dial caliper/1-2" micrometer. Keep looking for an area where you can sneak in for a measurement. Handy to avoid "crisis brake replacement." You know, where you're all bent over at the dealer.
Don't believe it was mentioned above , but a source of rotor warpage is heat shock such as heavy braking with rotors at e.g. 400F immediately followed by ice soak as in "hit big cold puddles." It is irreversible.
If you change your wheels yourself you can read the rotor thicknesses with a little partience and a vernier or dial caliper/1-2" micrometer. Keep looking for an area where you can sneak in for a measurement. Handy to avoid "crisis brake replacement." You know, where you're all bent over at the dealer.
Don't believe it was mentioned above , but a source of rotor warpage is heat shock such as heavy braking with rotors at e.g. 400F immediately followed by ice soak as in "hit big cold puddles." It is irreversible.
