Soundproofing doesn't look right inside bluetec engine compartment
 

Notice that the sound proofing material is not under the rubber molding on the right side of the engine. Is this normal? I am going to an extreme degree to kill all sources of outside noise and when checking the seals under the hood I noticed this.

It looks like the felt-like material that is jutting out was at one point fastened in to the metal backing but overtime it has worked it's way out.

I have this issue on my car also. Check the stick for service bulletins. That's where I found this. See if it applies to your car. Should be covered by warranty.

Deformation of engine compartment soundproofing due to water ingress. LI62.25-P-056043 defective seal. Install optimized seal part # 2126280800.

Forgive me but im entirely not able to see what you mean. I have this car too, and I notice engine noises but maybe im just used to it.... I62.25-P-056043 huh ? I have had my car at the dealership twice this year youd think theyd look but not unless you say something. Id love to read the chronicle of your soundproofing if its not already a thread.

Can you put a circle or arrow to the affected area? I'm having a hard time identifying what you are describing. I can check it against my E350BT.

Greg

Take a look at the photos in this post and compare them to your car.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...43#post5670199

Hey guys - look at the photo I uploaded and focus on the felt material that is jutting out to the right of the V6 logo on the engine hood. I left my car at the dealership today and they plan on replacing the rubber seal as well as the felt panel.

As far as my own attempts at soundproofing.. I purchased the quietest tires offered for 17 inch rims (based on aggregate review scores and now my personal opinion), the "Cinturato P7 All Season Plus" tires. I put second skin luxury liner, it's about 1/4 inch thick of closed-cell sound deadening matting, underneath my floor mats; I had to cut them just right to prevent them from being exposed while underneath the factory mats. Lastly, I installed Dynamat around the Urea tank in the rear of the car as a lot of road noise tends to enter the trunk via this area. I plan on removing the rear seats soon so I can get to the rear floor pan and I will line that area with what's left of the second skin luxury liner.

So far I've noticed a pretty significant reduction in road noise but wind noise remains an issue. I did initially have air leaking through the windshield at high speeds but the dealer was able to narrow the issue down to a bad seal in the top left of my windshield. I wish our vehicles came with laminated windows considering what we paid for them but at the end of the day I can always turn my sound system up.

Can someone with a diesel engine upload a picture of the area behind the engine cover where the foil backing meets the rubber seal (the heat shield near the top of my photo). I want to make sure that that portion of my seal is seated correctly.

Deformation as documented by bulletin 056043 referenced above requiring replacement to optimized seal part 2126280800.

The repair is not covered under my extended warranty; the shop wanted $737 dollars to repair the sound-proofing board and rubber seal to the right of the engine (?!?!?!?). Using a large washer and a new bolt and screw I will fix myself for $10 tomorrow. I will take pictures for anyone else in the same boat.

Btw, the heat shield in the rear is seated correctly against the top seal.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...26e93f30c6.jpg

Complete.


Ok - issue fixed in under 5 minutes. I do need to buy some heat-resistant glue for the section at the top of the sound-proofing panel that is separating.

The screw that is highlighted with a blue circle (my best attempt at a circle with paint) is the one you will want to install a washer on the other side of.

The screw head was all that kept the panel in place and as you can imagine with time, heat, and vibration it's no wonder the panel works its way out.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...8de6532b65.jpg

Screw in question


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...eb0ecd3cfa.jpg

Washers purchased from Walmart for 2 dollars


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...83e05670f7.jpg

The liner is now flush with the metal backing. The part of the upper soundboard that has frayed can be fixed with just a bit of glue; I haven't done this part yet.

Looking good. Need to go look at mine and see if these steps will help.

More "quiet"
 

Don't forget to Dynamat, or equivalent, the inside of the doors .

A month ago i took my car for service and showed something similar to my SA. They changed it under warranty.

I seriously want to do this part next but I am too afraid of accidentally damaging a trim clip in the process. I did see the documentation provided by a fellow forum member where he pretty much encased everything in sound deadening material but I would probably feel more comfortable tackling this if I had a video to go by.

My 2015 seems to have the peeling soundproofing under the hood. It already has the updated longer sealing lip trim (A212 628 08 00) and when I try to push the soundproofing behind it as directed in the service bulletin it won't stay.

I suppose the only ways to fix this are to replace the soundproofing, which I assume is exorbitantly expensive considering where it is, or to try to glue it myself. I have an oil change on Monday and will ask the dealer and reference the bulletin, but I don't have any high hopes as I am out of warranty and already have the updated trim...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...c8da9a1fcf.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...3cc7042855.jpg

That's a bummer, my '11 E350 has the same issue [deformed soundproofing] and I considered replacing the seal with the revised part. Either the lip isn't long or stiff enough to hold back soundproofing. I've thought about removing the seal, taping the top edge of the soundproofing to the firewall with high-temp aluminum tape and reinstalling the seal. I just think the tape won't stick to the felt-like surface of the soundproofing. Another option I'm considering is thin plastic sheeting (1/16" or less thick) cut into long strips to push up under the seal and essentially extend the "lip" downward to help.

I haven't looked too closely at replacing the soundproofing all together, obviously the space is tight, but any penetrations/harnesses thru the soundproofing would need to be disconnected or soundproofing cut. Besides all that, unless the material has changed... it might suffer the same fate.