Possible repair part for command knob
#26
I tried to get the outer ring off though couldn't budge it.
Last edited by Grizley; 02-03-2018 at 07:24 PM. Reason: Left out details
#27
Try to put a very thin fishing line between ring and cap then apply some heat and pull it. The glue is in the midle of the cap (never tried it, just an idea).
#28
Sorry for late reply.
I didn't use heat. All you need is a very sharp edge tool like a razor or small knife. Keep pushing out the cap slightly and turn the knob to apply even pressure on all sides. after some few rounds concentrate on one point. Don't worry about minor scratches. It will ultimately pop out.
I didn't use heat. All you need is a very sharp edge tool like a razor or small knife. Keep pushing out the cap slightly and turn the knob to apply even pressure on all sides. after some few rounds concentrate on one point. Don't worry about minor scratches. It will ultimately pop out.
#29
Sorry for late reply.
I didn't use heat. All you need is a very sharp edge tool like a razor or small knife. Keep pushing out the cap slightly and turn the knob to apply even pressure on all sides. after some few rounds concentrate on one point. Don't worry about minor scratches. It will ultimately pop out.
I didn't use heat. All you need is a very sharp edge tool like a razor or small knife. Keep pushing out the cap slightly and turn the knob to apply even pressure on all sides. after some few rounds concentrate on one point. Don't worry about minor scratches. It will ultimately pop out.
#30
I ended buying from a wrecker in UK. Compared to MB it was resonable but saved the effort And scratches. After all that I totaled my car so I don't have it anymore.
So, if anybody wants my old but unscratched knob, for repair, experiment or any suitable use, its up for sale, US50+postage.
#31
I could not get the cap off either, no matter what I did, warmed it up or whatever.
I ended buying from a wrecker in UK. Compared to MB it was resonable but saved the effort And scratches. After all that I totaled my car so I don't have it anymore.
So, if anybody wants my old but unscratched knob, for repair, experiment or any suitable use, its up for sale, US50+postage.
I ended buying from a wrecker in UK. Compared to MB it was resonable but saved the effort And scratches. After all that I totaled my car so I don't have it anymore.
So, if anybody wants my old but unscratched knob, for repair, experiment or any suitable use, its up for sale, US50+postage.
Got the sneaky *******
#32
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2016 E350 Sport
This shade-tree machinist thinks that whoever (presumably in Germany) designed this high-use part to be plastic needs to be summarilly shot, cremated, ashes ground into powder as tropical fish food. That Mercedes has not done this themselves is inexcusable. "The Best or Nothing" my ****. Only an imbicile would design this part with lightening flutes along the shaft, creating an inevitable stress point where the breakage occurs. A 15-year old kid in High School shop class wouldn't do this.
I can turn this part out of aluminum in less than half-hour, maybe 15 minutes. (Retired now, so don't ask). A CNC machine can spit these out (fully threaded) in aluminum or steel in seconds, faster than a plastic injection molding machine can do the same. Heck, the threaded metal insert encapsulated within the plastic casting takes as long to make as turning the entire shaft as one piece in a CNC machine. Idiotic.
If mine ever breaks, I think I will buy a plane ticket to Germany to have a meeting with these morons.
I can turn this part out of aluminum in less than half-hour, maybe 15 minutes. (Retired now, so don't ask). A CNC machine can spit these out (fully threaded) in aluminum or steel in seconds, faster than a plastic injection molding machine can do the same. Heck, the threaded metal insert encapsulated within the plastic casting takes as long to make as turning the entire shaft as one piece in a CNC machine. Idiotic.
If mine ever breaks, I think I will buy a plane ticket to Germany to have a meeting with these morons.
Last edited by DFWdude; 02-03-2019 at 08:33 AM.
#33
Thanks alot for the quick reply. I managed to get it off with a kitchen knife, inserting it a bit horizontally if that makes sense, pry off the sides incrementally and you should be able to get under. Though scratches are unavoidable so if you can cover it up by some wrap or something thatll be nice.
Got the sneaky *******
Got the sneaky *******
#34
This shade-tree machinist thinks that whoever (presumably in Germany) designed this high-use part to be plastic needs to be summarilly shot, cremated, ashes ground into powder as tropical fish food. That Mercedes has not done this themselves is inexcusable. "The Best or Nothing" my ****. Only an imbicile would design this part with lightening flutes along the shaft, creating an inevitable stress point where the breakage occurs. A 15-year old kid in High School shop class wouldn't do this.
I can turn this part out of aluminum in less than half-hour, maybe 15 minutes. (Retired now, so don't ask). A CNC machine can spit these out (fully threaded) in aluminum or steel in seconds, faster than a plastic injection molding machine can do the same. Heck, the threaded metal insert encapsulated within the plastic casting takes as long to make as turning the entire shaft as one piece in a CNC machine. Idiotic.
If mine ever breaks, I think I will buy a plane ticket to Germany to have a meeting with these morons.
I can turn this part out of aluminum in less than half-hour, maybe 15 minutes. (Retired now, so don't ask). A CNC machine can spit these out (fully threaded) in aluminum or steel in seconds, faster than a plastic injection molding machine can do the same. Heck, the threaded metal insert encapsulated within the plastic casting takes as long to make as turning the entire shaft as one piece in a CNC machine. Idiotic.
If mine ever breaks, I think I will buy a plane ticket to Germany to have a meeting with these morons.
Last edited by jesydney; 02-03-2019 at 06:28 PM.