nc211

Hey take a look at the Liftmaster 8500 garage door opener (known as a jackshaft). Would let you get rid of that opener in the middle of the ceiling. I’ve had them for years (used to be called the 3800) with zero problems. As long as you have a torsion bar for the door, it’s much easier to use and live with.

Skeechan

120,000mi on my 2011 212 RWD base and had a bunch of small things:

Picked up CPO with 50K

55K Cup holder door jammed itself up (not sure how, didn't get any coins or anything stuck in there). Dealer broke it trying to unjam it and replaced it under CPO warranty.

70-80K A repeated problem with some plastic fuel tank connection under the rear seat. It cracked 3 times and when the tank was full would fill the car with fumes. Every time it would go to the dealer, and every time about 3 months later it would be back for the same problem. The most recent repair however has stuck and it has been 3 years, so it is finally fixed. All done under CPO warranty

80K The 2 alum trim pieces on my steering wheel started to peel at the corners and they were sharp. Replaced with eBay plastic replacement pieces that actually look and feel better with a nice satin finish. All of like $6.

103K Driver power door lock button replaced, worked find but the black plastic that covers the button was starting to flake at the edges and looked bad.

105K Trans mount before it became a problem and some EGR top end bit that was throwing a code for minor leak, both were cheap fixes at my local benz guy Benz Works in Huntington Beach

113K Idler pulley noise...eBay for $25, easy self fix.

115K left panel of the driver seat bottom leatherette finally started to crack. Local upholstery guy replaced the panel for $150, seat in car, looks like new.

My car eats batteries, every 18 months or so, no matter how I drive, maintain the battery...it just kills batteries but luckily Bosch is usually on sale at the local Pepboys and I get prorated or free replacements. Just a bit of a hassle.

All in all I have about $600-$650 in repairs since getting it used about 5 years ago.

Keep it washed, waxed and garaged, fix every tiny thing as it happens...still looks and drives showroom new and the best part, pink in hand, no payments.

fganter

All that for under $650. That is impressive.

fganter

I wonder if the start/stop feature is contributing to this.

Skeechan

The part I thought was EGR, wasn't EGR, it was PCV and I think it was about $100 or a bit more with the labor. The little plastic steering wheels pieces were $6.50, the trans mount was $150 with the labor, the OEM door lock button module was $36 off ebay, pulley $25, seat $150. The fuel and cupholder were $0 under warranty. So actually less than $650 unless you count the batteries I bought. This doesn't include tools I bought like wedge tools to get the door panel off or anything but even that stuff is chicken feed. It really has been an economical car to own so far.

Next will be engine mounts which aren't cheap with the labor and the buttons near the command dial as I spilled nice sticky creamer filled coffee in mine and there is no cleaning them. As soon as the alcohol or anything else dries, they get sticky again and lose that click-click feel that drives by OCD up a wall.

Skeechan

Don't have start stop. I do drive mainly at night during the winter (early morning, late evening), but my commute is 25 miles one way and no optional accessories. It did it before my Android screen with the OEM NTG4 too so it isn't something being left on. No idiot lights and alternator checks good. My 2008 R350 did the same thing so I figured it was just a Benz thing. Bosch batteries, or whoever is making them for Bosch seem to last the longest at around 18 months and are on perpetual sale at PepBoys for $165 or less. I got my last one for only $99 which is insane for AGM. I replace the batteries before they actually die completely to avoid being stranded. They give me a warning if a tell-tale slow rollover. It is subtle but within a month it will be dead without any additional warning. And dead as in dead-dead, no jumping it and then driving for 40 minutes and putting it in a nice trickle overnight. It is jump it every time, won't take a charge, dead-dead. I have never had a Benz battery go more than 2 years no matter the size, brand, nothing. If eating batteries is the biggest problem I have, I consider myself very lucky. I thought that Benz might need AGM reset like BMW does (my Mini Countryman has to be reset when the battery is replaced), but didn't see anything about it.

fganter

AGM?

Skeechan

Absorbent Glass Mat style battery. On BMWs (and BMW-Mini) made after around 2002 you have to 'register' the replacement of an AGM battery and set its specs using a programming tool. I guess it can monitor charging or peak charge like a cell phone or laptop can peak charge Li ion batteries. I have not seen any reference to the same programming requirement with Benz, but if it is required (and obviously I haven't been doing it) it would explain why my car eats AGM batteries.

12w212

2012 e350 currently at 176k miles. No records but every filter I have replaced was OEM so I assume it was a dealer baby or a owner who cared. In the last 10k miles I have done the following, Serpentine belt and tensioner just to be safe. I invested in a icarsoft scanner to investigate the lights... replaced ABS sensor ($25), o2 sensor ($20).

The car was making a strange raspy sound coming from the transmission area, on a rainy day I drove over a big puddle of water and the noise went away... I figured trans mount or flex plate. I replaced both and that fixed the issue. Mount was worn, and flex plate had no cracks but did seem worn and dry. Local Euro shop wanted $1200 for flex plate alone. It took me 2hours and $200 in oem parts.

I think brakes and motor mounts are next due to small vibrations. I will also do plugs soon just to be safe.

Overall I think the car will reach over 200k without anything major... coming from a Lexus I am impressed that the cost difference in parts is not as bad as I expected.

Yes my seats are ripped.

Arrie

Just today after about month and a half wait I received the 250000 km high mileage badge from MBUSA. I sent a letter to them when I had about 160000 miles (256000 km) on the clock. If you want the badge and a nice hard cover book for it you need to ask your MB dealer for a form that they will fill up with the mileage on the car and sign it. You will fill your info if your dealer does not do that and then you will mail it to the address on the form.

It took a few weeks but today I got it. Very nice MB badge to screw in the front of the car if I want to do that. I'm not sure if I will, I will need to see how it looks with it.

This badge is free from Mercedes.

ChrisB

Congratulations ... I am about 5,000 miles away from being eligible for this same badge & certificate with our 1999 SL 500.

I will be applying.

Post pictures of badge and certificate book. I have seen on doing an internet search.

Is there a good spot to mount on the grill? It would be quite unique.

why_not

My 2009 e250 cdi passes 310.000 miles shortly.. (500.000KM)
Still no big issues..

The gearbox sometimes shift a bit hard to 2nd gear... but thats not a big issue..
/k

2011E300

Got a 2011 E300 with 265,000km (165,000 miles), still going strong. There is a weird vibrating noise coming from the car when shifting from first to second under hard throttle. This noise is not as pronounced under part throttle but still noticeable, what could it be?

luciloves@yahoo

I have 108k, and just had to replace the ISM on my E550. Other than that solid.

Tabish T

I literally signed up to reply, just picked one with 235,000 Miles.... i know i know ... a older lady had it who used to it for highway driving in the tristate highways so i was going to ask if i can also get a high milage badge too lol.. will contact my MB dealer today. just did a oil change and new serp belt.

pattynole

185,000 miles and counting on my 2011 E350 Wagon.

Tabish T

any major issues?

pattynole

Nothing major. Having some work done today. PVC valve, vacuum pump.

Tabish T

oh did you get a cel or any symptoms that lead you to believe that the PCV valve and Vac pump have to be replaced.

atraudes

120k on my 2011 E350 wagon. I've put less than 10k of those miles on it in the past year. The only maintenance I'm aware of prior to taking possession is what popped up on Carfax so I won't list it here. The things it's needed so far is an oil cooler reseal, tailgate and hood struts, front sway bar, transmission and engine mounts, and a blower motor. Overall not too bad. Other things I've replaced proactively/as part of maintenance are engine and cabin filters, spark plugs, PCV hoses, sway bar links, transmission fluid and filter, steering fluid, front and rear diff fluids, coolant, thermostat, coolant hoses, strut mounts, brakes, and belt/idler/tensioner.

At this point I need to chase down a minor engine oil leak, and the four front lower control arms and rear wheel bearings are coming due.

a4ncar

I have the same problem with my steering wheel trim, dealer said was not covered under CPO and would need the whole steering bag replaced. Can you point me what I should look for on the Ebay listings?

Petes450se

135,000 on a 2016 diesel E250. I got it this summer. I’m the second owner.

Stevieboy1

I purchased W212 wagon in 2018 and it was a previous CPO car. I did have to put in a tranny, which my MB dealer sourced out for me and warranteed it for 12 months, unlimited miles at a cost of $4,500 last year. Put in a Pedal Sensor in August, parts $136 and labor $205, MB Battery in October ($263), Brake pads and rotors at 140,000 in 2016. Vehicle had regular filters & oil changes but I am doing my own now with a top loader and cabin filter, air filters and oil change takes about 1 1/2 hour.

268 HP engine is a little underpowered, but is bulletproof! I have a CPO 2015 GL550 that has a MB 2 year extended, unlimited mile warranty and will definitely buy an E-400 Wagon when it expires. Love those wagons! I did have a 2003 E-320 Wagon and it was great, but the 212 is much better overall from my perspective.

atraudes

Did the dealership get you a brand new transmission for that cost, was it rebuilt, "refurbished", etc? The way mine is acting, I may be looking at a new one at some point as well. Good to know $4500 is the most I can plan on spending.

Stevieboy1

No, it was used with 80k miles, but the MB Dealership warrantied it for 12 months, unlimited miles. My local non-dealer shop sourced one for about $3,900, but it was worth the extra money to get the warranty!

The failure was the U-Joint that is apparently encased in the transmission that can't be accessed. On most cars, this is an easy fix, but....this is a Mercedes, so nothing is cheap! The entire transmission had to be replaced.