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Anybody else out there with super high miles? What's your experience been? I just picked up a 2011 with nearly 174K. Prior owner said all that's gone wrong in the past 110K that he owned it is a headlight bulb. it runs and drives like new. I also plan on racking up the miles as well.
Would love to hear other high mile stories!
Im new here but i wanted to notify you that here where i live (Albania), we buy a lot of second hand Mercedes from Germany mainly C and E class and mainly the dealers dramatically reduce the km i've seen Mercedes-es here with 500 000 km plus,
i used to own an w211 cdi E220 with 300 000 km which i bought with 200 000 km and no problem at all
also a 2001 s320 cdi with 600 000 km with small issues over the time
a w124 E300 D with 700 000 km not a single problem ever
but from my experience apart of the S class all other Mercedes if well maintained have no problem running good
I think that the only reason the Mercedes brand has been in my family for 17 years luxury and well build
Im new here but i wanted to notify you that here where i live (Albania), we buy a lot of second hand Mercedes from Germany mainly C and E class and mainly the dealers dramatically reduce the km i've seen Mercedes-es here with 500 000 km plus,
i used to own an w211 cdi E220 with 300 000 km which i bought with 200 000 km and no problem at all
also a 2001 s320 cdi with 600 000 km with small issues over the time
a w124 E300 D with 700 000 km not a single problem ever
but from my experience apart of the S class all other Mercedes if well maintained have no problem running good
I think that the only reason the Mercedes brand has been in my family for 17 years luxury and well build
Most Mercedes cars are well built. Seems like with the W212 they finally got back to the quality they had back in the '80s and earlier. IMO, Late 90's and early 2000's were not the best cars, although my 2004 S430 is holding up pretty well overall with 210K miles on it. It's not perfect though!
I agree W212 is amazing i just bought my E250 cdi in belgium with 177 000 km and drove it to albania like 2300 km non stop and it was really nice and very different than my old w211 e220
I agree W212 is amazing i just bought my E250 cdi in belgium with 177 000 km and drove it to albania like 2300 km non stop and it was really nice and very different than my old w211 e220
I have heard albanians are in love with Mercs, 80% of the cars there are supposedly MBs. Have you seen the Top Gear Albania special? How much of it is accurate?
Its true but we own a lot of late model mercedeses not only old ones. Top gear shows only poor areas which is not true because there is so much corruption around here and they buy expensive mercedeses an its rivals also people who are emigrants (half of nation population) first money they make are cars because its in our culture we like cars
one engine light at 99,000. Piece of carbon broke off and threw off timing. Drove straight to the dealer and got a loaner while firing 5 cylinders. Vibrated badly but kept it at 45mph.
I Turned the car off and after i left with s loaner they turned it back on and the engine light was off.
No other issues. I change oil every 6-7000 miles. Rotate tires every 3-3500 miles.
one engine light at 99,000. Piece of carbon broke off and threw off timing. Drove straight to the dealer and got a loaner while firing 5 cylinders. Vibrated badly but kept it at 45mph.
I Turned the car off and after i left with s loaner they turned it back on and the engine light was off.
No other issues. I change oil every 6-7000 miles. Rotate tires every 3-3500 miles.
With yours being a 2013, I am guessing the carbon issue was due to the direct injection. Any more details on this?
They asked me if I had the spark plugs done and I had. I think it was a really minor issue.
I havent had any issues since then, i believe that carbon issues stem from short trips and lack of long distance trips. I obviously do a lot of long trips. The one thing that I noticed was that the piece of carbon broke off after about 2 months of conservative driving to try and raise my combined fuel economy over 26mpg. The incident itself happened after i revved it to pass several cars.
So now i make sure that i regularly get the rpms up.
They asked me if I had the spark plugs done and I had. I think it was a really minor issue.
I havent had any issues since then, i believe that carbon issues stem from short trips and lack of long distance trips. I obviously do a lot of long trips. The one thing that I noticed was that the piece of carbon broke off after about 2 months of conservative driving to try and raise my combined fuel economy over 26mpg. The incident itself happened after i revved it to pass several cars.
So now i make sure that i regularly get the rpms up.
Base on these, may I assume that using or not using "Top Tier" gasoline wouldn't matter due to the fact DI engines spray high pressure gasoline into the pistons itself and not the intake valves; therefore, no matter how much detergents a brand gasoline put into their formula it wouldn't clean the valves.
I think top tier gas is a scam and obviously w/DI it’s useless but one thing I do do is avoid old run down gas stations or small town gas stations where use of 93 is low and I also vary my gas stations...in PA I switch from sheetz, BP, Sunoco, GetGo equally.
I've been always filling up at cheapest stations and only occasionally top tier at Costco and never had fuel-related problems.
Our original 1998 ML320 not only run on cheapest fuel, but for 3 years was running on dino oils, while hauling significant trailers and averaged less than $30 a year in repairs. Spend 13 years in the family for about $300 total in replaced parts.
I think top tier gas is a scam and obviously w/DI it’s useless but one thing I do do is avoid old run down gas stations or small town gas stations where use of 93 is low and I also vary my gas stations...in PA I switch from sheetz, BP, Sunoco, GetGo equally.
91 and higher octane is recommended for MB cars to avoid detonation or knock and other issues related to improper/incomplete fuel burning. If you use high octane gas in vehicles which do not specifically require it (Camry, Accord, etc.) the only thing you are achieving is literally burning money. So, yes, it is a scam but only if you're told to use it on vehicles which don't specifically require it.
91 and higher octane is recommended for MB cars to avoid detonation or knock and other issues related to improper/incomplete fuel burning. If you use high octane gas in vehicles which do not specifically require it (Camry, Accord, etc.) the only thing you are achieving is literally burning money. So, yes, it is a scam but only if you're told to use it on vehicles which don't specifically require it.
I think they are talking about "top tier" as opposed to "high octane". "Top tier" meaning "brand name".
91 and higher octane is recommended for MB cars to avoid detonation or knock and other issues related to improper/incomplete fuel burning. If you use high octane gas in vehicles which do not specifically require it (Camry, Accord, etc.) the only thing you are achieving is literally burning money. So, yes, it is a scam but only if you're told to use it on vehicles which don't specifically require it.
Not all all.
When we had regural-gas Volvo as family car, the 2.2l engine with 112HP was struggling on those 12-17 miles grades we had in California.
So for annual trip to Las Vegas I was filling up Volvo with premium. Thanks to that I had no pinging taking those grades on overdrive, so I drove faster and staying on higher gear suppose to save fuel as well, although at the time I had no way to verify that.
Still time saving in times when fuel cost about $1 was the biggest issue.
Not all all.
When we had regural-gas Volvo as family car, the 2.2l engine with 112HP was struggling on those 12-17 miles grades we had in California.
So for annual trip to Las Vegas I was filling up Volvo with premium. Thanks to that I had no pinging taking those grades on overdrive, so I drove faster and staying on higher gear suppose to save fuel as well, although at the time I had no way to verify that.
Still time saving in times when fuel cost about $1 was the biggest issue.
That's interesting. When I was living in Europe I had a Bmw 318Ci and afterwards a 530xd but there was no difference in average mpg or the feel of the engine when I used 99 and 100 instead of the regular 95 (89 or 87 here). I put around 50k miles on each of them and tried higher octane fuels on both a couple of times and didn't notice anything different in their behavior.
The mpg can be tricky. Back in Europe, I was driving Fiat125, that suppose to have 94 octans. Era with no knock sensors btw. One time I had to fill up 78 octans and engine was pinging like crazy, so I was always backing off gas pedal. I was recording each fill up those days and the mpg on low octane come better than on high octane. Not becouse the fuel performed differently, but becouse I was driving "with egg under gas pedal".
Than being in former Yugoslavia I filled up Fiat with 100 octanes. That made the engine real monster, who would drive over the mountains without downshifting. 1400 rpm, gas pedal close to the floor on steep grade and no pinging.
Mine has. 102,000. Drives very nicely. I’m told br dealer there will be a big ticket item coming up— ~$2,700 to replace brake lines that may corrode Otherwise, told it will last for over 200,000 k miles.
Originally Posted by 300SE1993
Anybody else out there with super high miles? What's your experience been? I just picked up a 2011 with nearly 174K. Prior owner said all that's gone wrong in the past 110K that he owned it is a headlight bulb. it runs and drives like new. I also plan on racking up the miles as well.
Mine has. 102,000. Drives very nicely. I’m told br dealer there will be a big ticket item coming up— ~$2,700 to replace brake lines that may corrode Otherwise, told it will last for over 200,000 k miles.
I've never heard about this brake line issue, can you elaborate? Is there a TSB? I've changed all rotors and pads on mine and never noticed any issues with the lines while I was under there.
By the way, I am up to 211K miles and it's continued to be trouble free.
I've never heard about this brake line issue, can you elaborate? Is there a TSB? I've changed all rotors and pads on mine and never noticed any issues with the lines while I was under there.
By the way, I am up to 211K miles and it's continued to be trouble free.
I will speak with the dealer at the next service (7,500 miles to go) and let you know. Maybe it’s a combination of living near salt water and driving extensively in the winter over salt covered roads. No TSBs or recalls that I can see.
I will speak with the dealer at the next service (7,500 miles to go) and let you know. Maybe it’s a combination of living near salt water and driving extensively in the winter over salt covered roads. No TSBs or recalls that I can see.
Or it's the dealer liking to suggest work that may or may not be needed. They also wanted to replace my power steering lines because there was a little rust on it. Another mechanic (benz tech) thought it was fine. Been two years and it's still fine. I remember replacing some copper water lines in the basement once where it had a lot of green corrosion on it and it had been like that for years. When it was removed I looked at the old pipes and the corrosion was basically just surface rust, the rest of the pipe was still solid copper.
Or it's the dealer liking to suggest work that may or may not be needed. They also wanted to replace my power steering lines because there was a little rust on it. Another mechanic (benz tech) thought it was fine. Been two years and it's still fine. I remember replacing some copper water lines in the basement once where it had a lot of green corrosion on it and it had been like that for years. When it was removed I looked at the old pipes and the corrosion was basically just surface rust, the rest of the pipe was still solid copper.
Point well taken. I will speak with my private mechanic first. He does a lot of work on it, but works mostly on BMW, Porsche and Audi. He will be able to tell me if there is corrosion on the brake lines or not.
I have three E350 W212 4Matics used as limousines in Durango CO. A 2014 with 192K, another 2014 with 80K, and a 2016 with 40K. The seam in the lower seat cushion has blown out on three of the four front seats of two cars. On the car with 192K, repaired one seat for $162.00 at an upholstery shop. It did not need a new seat cover. At 84K, a front brake caliper malfunctioned, MB of Santa Fe replaced the front calipers, rotors and pads under CPO warrantee. 136K transfer case seal warranted. The fuel cap door fell off and was glued back on. 150K the blower motor started making noise. Dealer said it wasn't covered under the CPO warrantee. The other two cars have not had any repairs aside from needing a seat cushion repaired.
Overall these have been more reliable and more durable than the W211s. We had four W211s and loved them too.
If anyone has a W212 with mileage exceeding 200K I would be interested to know about any needed repairs.
I have three E350 W212 4Matics used as limousines in Durango CO. A 2014 with 192K, another 2014 with 80K, and a 2016 with 40K. The seam in the lower seat cushion has blown out on three of the four front seats of two cars. On the car with 192K, repaired one seat for $162.00 at an upholstery shop. It did not need a new seat cover. At 84K, a front brake caliper malfunctioned, MB of Santa Fe replaced the front calipers, rotors and pads under CPO warrantee. 136K transfer case seal warranted. The fuel cap door fell off and was glued back on. 150K the blower motor started making noise. Dealer said it wasn't covered under the CPO warrantee. The other two cars have not had any repairs aside from needing a seat cushion repaired.
Overall these have been more reliable and more durable than the W211s. We had four W211s and loved them too.
If anyone has a W212 with mileage exceeding 200K I would be interested to know about any needed repairs.
Thanks for your input! I am up to 215K now. The car was basically trouble free until 210K hit. In the past 3 months I've needed intake manifold due to broken lever (could have probably just replaced the lever). I had a broken rear spring and just last week my starter went out. Oh, and my tensioner pulley started squeaking too. I don't anticipate any more drama in the near future, but we shall see. It still rides and drives like new otherwise.
10-17-2017, 06:30 AM
