Gman2

My 2010 e63 won’t turn off with the push button start or with the key in the ignition. It is not showing any codes on the Dash. If I rev it really hard I can manage to turn it off.

Please help,

ghlkal

Wow, that's a weird and scary problem.

I'm sorry I have no input, but hopefully someone will have some words of wisdom.

Gman2

Before i go to the dealership i thought i might be able to find some help here about my issue. I have scoured the forum and been unable to find something similar....

Laying in wait!

Jabberwock

only time mine won't turn off is when it's not in park...

KEY08

^ right, which makes me think there is an issue with the starter switch not recognizing the vehicle is in Park. I am not sure why revving up would change that state. Take it to the shop for diagnosis, where I'm sure they will all stare into space as well.

Sunnyslope48

Several Youtube videos about this same subject. Didn't see a Mercedes, but the problem shows up in many car brands and models so this is a relatively common problem.

Arrie

When you turn the key off or press the button does anything at all turn off if you open the door?

I'm thinking this is a stuck solenoid, i.e. very easy fix if you know which one it is...

thefisch

Interested to see how this turns out. Good luck OP.

MBNUT1

Yes try putting in and out of park to see it that enables the shut-off

Gman2

Gman2

Arrie

I'm not familiar with your car but under the hood there is a fuse box that also has bunch of relays switches in it. As you say nothing turns off for me it says the main relay that feeds the circuits is not releasing, it is stuck. What I would do is I would give a tap on each relay to see if they will shut the car off as often this makes a stuck relay release. My car has another fuse box in the trunk but I don't remember if it has relays in it.

Sunnyslope48

This may be of help.
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/e-class...ram-2010-2016/
Certainly, if you pulled the fuse that runs the fuel pump, the engine would stop. There are also fuses for Keyless go also. I would have expected some fr ignition but don't see those.
Did you look in the owners manual?? Or talk to a Dealership service advisor?

Gman2

Thanks for all the help!! i will give it a try over the next couple of days and let you know

- Mover -

Interesting problem ! There is alot of current going thru some of those fuses so there is a risk of shock.
I mentioned this to a friend who is into electronics by profession and he said its probably safer to start pulling the relays within the fuse box out.

Sunnyslope48

Nothing in the fuse box has more than battery voltage. Relays usually have more current capacity than fuses but they're still battery voltage. Pull a relay, pull a fuse, either will get the job done. But that just gets the engine to stop running at the moment, until restarted then you will likely have to do this again and again. The bigger problem still needs to be addressed - what is causing the engine not to shut off. First wild guess is the key switch or the starter switch. A wiring diagram and a test light would probably lead you to the answer.

- Mover -

Its not the voltage that's going to harm him, its the current. Yes, its not going to fix problem but it will allow him to stop the engine from running an extra 20 minutes or so before he can shut it down with the key.

Pull that fuse if you like, but its safer to pull the relay in my (and the electrician's) opinion.

Sunnyslope48

Find the fuse for the fuel pump and find the relay for the fuel pump. The car likely has both. Then look at the amperage of each and tell us which device carries more amperage.

- Mover -

When I read your answers, its obvious to me what you do and don't understand about electronics and, yes, I understand where the current is and isn't.

I gave my recommendation.

I'd hate to see anyone unnecessarily exposing themselves to getting hurt, especially when dealing with high current.

Arrie

How is it safer to pull a relay than a fuse when the same voltage with the same current is running thru both of them? If there is a spark / arch it will be the same with both.

Arrie

I think it is you who is mixing the danger here. Voltage kills / hurts people and very seldom current.

In a car's 12 volt system it is hard to get enough current to hurt you as the current is so low when people handle the electronic parts. You know the U=R x I, right? From this I=U/R meaning when you divide the 12 volts with relatively high human resistance there isn't much amps to hurt anyone. Just don't go poke around the spark plug wires when the car runs as voltage is very high.

Yes, amperage hurts but you need voltage to carry those amps. Without volts, no hurt.

If you ever used an electric welder you would know this. I have used a stick welder in my past job that put out 600 amps but it never hurt me touching the welding rod and I was standing inside the metal pod I was welding that was grounded to the welder. Welders do not put out much volts but lots of amps to melt the metal being welded and the rod, of course.

boltonblue

If we're going to be pedantic here, a lot depends on how reactive or inductive the load on the circuit is.
pulling a breaker on a highly inductive load can result in a huge voltage jump since you are trying top break a circuit which really wants to maintain current through the inductor.
remember this is the principle of how they used to generate spark in the spark plug.
Pulling the fuse on a motor can give an interesting little surprise.

Mud

I wonder if OP reached a solution to this .

Gman2

Well ... the car would not turoff at all.... straight to the dealer I went and guess what? They couldn’t turn it off either and he was the shop Forman. He put the scanner on it while I was there and couldn’t find anything ....strange....

Managed to stop the engine running but the electronics would not turn off


cha ching!!!

this is going to hurt...ouch

thanks for all the suggestion

Arrie

There is some writing in this forum about cases when all sorts of warnings come on and the car does not operate and this is caused by a blown fuse in the F32 pre-fuse box. From the writings I understand that the F32 also houses a relay that obviously powers lots of things. Could it be that this F32 in this case does not shut down because this relay is stuck? It would keep all equipment that this box feeds lit up and if the car's engine systems are fed by this F32 it would not shut the car off.

If this is the problem it should not cost more than around $650 by the writings as this is what it cost for people with the blown fuse problem. They replace the whole F32 for the fix, not just the fuse so the fix should be the same.