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That is the exact problem I have. THANK YOU! I spent all night last night searching for help. I wonder if it is a hard job, or something I could of done. The dealer charged the other guy 650. I have a 4-matic, did the tow driver have to put a wheel adapter on both axles or just one?
I imagine it's supposed to be put on a truck bed since it's AWD, but I'm not a 4-matic expert or any kind of AWD expert... was it in neutral? That should be ok?
That is the exact problem I have. THANK YOU! I spent all night last night searching for help. I wonder if it is a hard job, or something I could of done. The dealer charged the other guy 650. I have a 4-matic, did the tow driver have to put a wheel adapter on both axles or just one?
The workshop instructions are in the other thread on how to do it, but unfortunately there are no DIY stories on here to gauge how difficult it would be. If you think you've diagnosed it, I would make some calls to local dealer and indy shops to find out what they would charge for it. Other threads mention a cost of $700-900 and change but maybe they spent more time (money) diagnosing in those cases. Then decide from there if you're up to tinkering on it yourself. Personally, I might give it a go and see if each step goes without difficulty or risk. With the power disconnected, it seems mostly just electrical hookups/wiring that you are disconnecting and reconnecting to the new part. However, it's hard to tell how accessible it all is. If you're really adventurous, here is a video on how to disassemble and potentially rebuilt the fuse unit (replace the burnt out fuse). However, MB sells it as an entire unit so you are really refurbing it if you go that route (not in my comfort zone).
In that thread, the car only needed the adapter on one axle but I am not sure if that car had 4matic or not. If you're calling for a tow, I would explain the situation first to be sure they come equipped to handle it in case they need 2 adapters - one for each axle of the 4matic.
You may want to send a private message to @tesmith2112 who started the other thread to see if they have any advice for you. Also, try Mario Drago who posted that they had this fixed in that same thread. If you end up doing it or at least attempting it, please update the thread as this issue comes up one or twice a year on here.
The workshop instructions are in the other thread on how to do it, but unfortunately there are no DIY stories on here to gauge how difficult it would be. If you think you've diagnosed it, I would make some calls to local dealer and indy shops to find out what they would charge for it. Other threads mention a cost of $700-900 and change but maybe they spent more time (money) diagnosing in those cases. Then decide from there if you're up to tinkering on it yourself. Personally, I might give it a go and see if each step goes without difficulty or risk. With the power disconnected, it seems mostly just electrical hookups/wiring that you are disconnecting and reconnecting to the new part. However, it's hard to tell how accessible it all is. If you're really adventurous, here is a video on how to disassemble and potentially rebuilt the fuse unit (replace the burnt out fuse). However, MB sells it as an entire unit so you are really refurbing it if you go that route (not in my comfort zone).
In that thread, the car only needed the adapter on one axle but I am not sure if that car had 4matic or not. If you're calling for a tow, I would explain the situation first to be sure they come equipped to handle it in case they need 2 adapters - one for each axle of the 4matic.
You may want to send a private message to @tesmith2112 who started the other thread to see if they have any advice for you. Also, try Mario Drago who posted that they had this fixed in that same thread. If you end up doing it or at least attempting it, please update the thread as this issue comes up one or twice a year on here.
Thank you for taking the time and explaining the issue. I did see the Youtube video how to re-solder the fuse. Right now the car is with the dealer and I have extended factory warranty until the end of the year. I will update this thread as soon as I get word from the dealer.
Sorry, didn't realize that you had an extended warranty. Is it the MB ELW? If so, you should be fine if this is your issue.
Yep it is factory warranty, good until 100k and end of year. I was nervous because I have HID, LED and Changed the Tails lights that could "potentially" Void the electrical warranty.
TOWED IN - CAR WILL NOT COME OUT OF PARK - CPO WARR
FRONT SAM BRINGING CAN DOWN DUE TO INTERNAL FAILURE.
CHECKED CAR WONT COME OUT OF PARK, RAN QUICK TEST,
DRIVETRAIN CAN DOWN AND INTERIOR CAN DOWN AS WELL. INSTALLED
FREE-WHEELING HUB, PUSHED CAR INTO SHOP. MULTIPLE CODES IN
MULTIPLE MODULES FOR NO COMM AND VOLTAGE CODES. CHECKED
FUSES IN FRONT SAM. REMOVED L/F DOOR SILL PLATE AND PANEL TO
ACCESS DRIVETRAIN CAN X30/30. CHECKED HIGH AND LOW SIDE
VOLTAGES @ 2.4V & 2.6V, OK. REMOVED 1 CAN CONN @ A TIME
WHILE TRYING TO COMM. AAC, RADIO, AND FRONT SEATS INOP AS
WELL, NO ST WHEEL CONTROLS EITHER. REMOVED WIPER ARMS &
COWL, REPLACED FRONT SAM AND PERFORMED INITIAL START UP,
NECESSARY TO SCN CODE CENTRAL GATEWAY AND ELECTRIC STEERING.
NOW ABLE TO COMM WITH ISM AND STEERING COLUMN MODULE.
CLEARED ALL CODES AND RAN QUICK TEST, CODES FOR 30G CIRCUIT
IN REAR SAM, CONTINUED DIAG/REPAIR ON JOB 3
PARTS------QTY---FP-NUMBER---------------DESCRIPTION--------------------UNIT PRICE JOB # 1 1 231-900-77-07-64 CONTROL UNIT WARRANTY
Added Operation (********* @ 03/28/2018 18:06)
CPO WARR - ESP LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON 691300 db
QUIESCENT RELAY IN FRONT PRE-FUSE BLOCK DEFECTIVE, DOESN'T
ENERGIZE 30G CIRCUIT
AFTER GETTING DRIVETRAIN CAN OPERATIONAL, FOUND CIRCUIT 30G
CODES IN REAR SAM. TRIED ACTUATING QUIESCENT RELAY THROUGH
REAR SAM WHILE MONITORING VOLTAGE ON EITHER SIDE OF RELAY,
RELAY NOT ENERGIZING 30G CIRCUIT. REMOVED BATTERY AND FRONT
PREFUSE BLOCK, REPLACED F32 FRONT PREFUSE BLOCK,
REASSEMBLED, CLEARED CODES AND ROAD TESTED (79900-79905),
ALL SYSTEMS OPERATING AS DESIGNED AFTER REPAIR.
PARTS------QTY---FP-NUMBER---------------DESCRIPTION--------------------UNIT PRICE JOB # 3 1 212-540-62-50-64 FUSE BOX WARRANTY
JOB # 3 TOTAL PARTS 0.00
F32 fuse block as predicted by Mr. Fisch. If anyone is looking for a good indy I understand he has now opened up a shop in Florida.
Hah, I would rather be a fake mechanic with no liability on the internet. Fewer lawsuits.
OP, it appears that they also replaced the front SAM in addition to the F32 fuse block. I wonder if something going bad in the front SAM lead to the fuse going out. Regardless, it looks like your warranty covered. Did they give you any idea how much the repair would have been?
Hah, I would rather be a fake mechanic with no liability on the internet. Fewer lawsuits.
OP, it appears that they also replaced the front SAM in addition to the F32 fuse block. I wonder if something going bad in the front SAM lead to the fuse going out. Regardless, it looks like your warranty covered. Did they give you any idea how much the repair would have been?
I asked for out of pocket with out warranty and serviced rep said anywhere from 300-400 for the f32 and 1,100 for the SAM. He showed me what the Factory warranty paid: ~213 for the fuse and ~768 for the sam, NOT including service or tow
I personally think its my battery going out. It is at 7 years now. As for the front SAM, (btw they told me they replaced the rear sam) I think it might be a combination of Aftermarket Remote start, HID, LED, and swapped out tail lights to a newer year made in china LOL
I know I shouldn't do it but my 2015 town and country comes with heated steering wheel, seats and mirrors, 3 tvs, seats 7 or becomes a flatbed and gave me 47k miles in 2.5 year with just brake and oil cost out of pocket. All for a wopping 33k with tax. On the w212 aftermarket remote start is a must, even if it triggers ESP inoperative, I just restart and it goes away.
I asked for out of pocket with out warranty and serviced rep said anywhere from 300-400 for the f32 and 1,100 for the SAM. He showed me what the Factory warranty paid: ~213 for the fuse and ~768 for the sam, NOT including service or tow
I personally think its my battery going out. It is at 7 years now. As for the front SAM, (btw they told me they replaced the rear sam) I think it might be a combination of Aftermarket Remote start, HID, LED, and swapped out tail lights to a newer year made in china LOL
I know I shouldn't do it but my 2015 town and country comes with heated steering wheel, seats and mirrors, 3 tvs, seats 7 or becomes a flatbed and gave me 47k miles in 2.5 year with just brake and oil cost out of pocket. All for a wopping 33k with tax. On the w212 aftermarket remote start is a must, even if it triggers ESP inoperative, I just restart and it goes away.
Wait, I thought you said you replaced the battery and that had no effect on the problem?
Wait, I thought you said you replaced the battery and that had no effect on the problem?
I did swap it out with a H8 and had no affect, I left the h8 battery in the back and towed it with the old battery in the engine bay. I think the old battery caused the issue because the week before the same thing happened and I left the car sit for 4 hours and the issue didn’t occur until a week later. I am assuming the dealer didn’t check the condition of the battery. I currently left the old battery installed right now to see if the issue would return. I really do think it was a low voltage issue. I will know soon, old battery is still in there.
I had a problem with my prefuse box (A2075402750). My solution to get it going until I could replace the prefuse box was to provide 12v directly to the IG 1 post hence providing power to the rear SAM.
Simple but effective, and saves having to tow the vehicle. If the relay fails then the rear SAM does not get power so all instrument warnings will show, the power steering will not work and the car will not come out of park. You can fix temporarily buy providing 12V directly to the f32 circuit which powers the rear SAM.
Last edited by JAA_AUS; 09-24-2018 at 10:09 PM.
Reason: Adding Diagram
My 2014 E350 4matic did a similar thing today. Got in the car and started driving. Then all the sudden I noticed the steering was heavy, then the inoperable warnings started to come. Cruise control, lane assist, traction control, abs and more, Then I got a warning to not shift the car. Then at the dealer the passenger air bag not working message along with the check engine light came on. On the way to the dealer I noticed the car had no power. At least it would not down shift. I was able to make it to the dealer. The car went down the interstate just fine running through all 7 gears. The more I think about it the more it seems like a battery thing?
I had the same problem with my 2014 e350, but it turned out to be the problem with battery. The car started OK, could drive, but all the dash lights on in cold weather. Scanner showed 21 errors, multiple modules failed to communicate with CAN, no CAN data. Tested the battery, it seems OK, after fully charged, still lights on. Changed f32, not working, and bought a new battery from Auto Advanced Parts with 900cca, still not working. Eventually, I changed the battery that exactly matched with the original one that has 800cca, and 920ca, 80ah, for about $170, fixed problem. If buy MB battery from dealer, it's about $300. Online has discount, still around $200. Basically, if change battery, make sure the battery specifics matches with the original one to avoid unnecessary headaches.
I had the same problem with my 2014 e350, but it turned out to be the problem with battery. The car started OK, could drive, but all the dash lights on in cold weather. Scanner showed 21 errors, multiple modules failed to communicate with CAN, no CAN data. Tested the battery, it seems OK, after fully charged, still lights on. Changed f32, not working, and bought a new battery from Auto Advanced Parts with 900cca, still not working. Eventually, I changed the battery that exactly matched with the original one that has 800cca, and 920ca, 80ah, for about $170, fixed problem. If buy MB battery from dealer, it's about $300. Online has discount, still around $200. Basically, if change battery, make sure the battery specifics matches with the original one to avoid unnecessary headaches.
This is the kind of stuff that drives me nuts about these cars. A battery should just provide power when engine is not running and start the car. Once the alternator is running, then the battery state of charge shouldn't matter.
I am having this issue with my 11 wagon, this is the 3rd or 4th time it’s been to the dealer. Got a new battery and codes cleared, now they are saying it’s the steering column control module.
Scenario:
key in.
Dash is a Christmas tree.
Starts sometimes, won’t move out of park. Service - don’t shift. All as above. I have a video if that helps.
Towed to dealer, Tech diagnosed a faulty steering column this time around, is there any DIY guides for this?
Tech says SRS light on as well that could be related or might not be. They’ll need to check after the column repair whether it’s something else.
I frankly don’t trust the diagnosis given I’ve already spent so much diagnosing, towing to the dealer 3 times, clearing codes, new battery. Any advice?
My 2014 E350 4matic did a similar thing today. Got in the car and started driving. Then all the sudden I noticed the steering was heavy, then the inoperable warnings started to come. Cruise control, lane assist, traction control, abs and more, Then I got a warning to not shift the car. Then at the dealer the passenger air bag not working message along with the check engine light came on. On the way to the dealer I noticed the car had no power. At least it would not down shift. I was able to make it to the dealer. The car went down the interstate just fine running through all 7 gears. The more I think about it the more it seems like a battery thing?
Mine does this when I floor it. It is really annoying. The car basically goes into limp mode and everything becomes inoperable. If on the interstate it will still maintain speed. Just has very little power. The thing is. As soon as I can get somewhere to shut the car off and restart it everything goes back to normal. The dealer says they cant find anything wrong with it. It will occasionally happen without flooring the gas just out of nowhere.
03-28-2018, 12:16 AM
