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-   -   Default 2011 E350 W212 vibration while driving at 1500-2000RPM (https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w212/732611-default-2011-e350-w212-vibration-while-driving-1500-2000rpm.html)

gica69 01-11-2019 12:24 PM
Default 2011 E350 W212 vibration while driving at 1500-2000RPM
 
It was noticeable for awhile on the freeway but in 6th only and very little, only when accelerating to pick up some speed at the RPM mentioned, but now it does it in 3rd, 4th and 5th the same shudder vibration(RRRRRRRRRRRRR say that out loud and you get the picture of the sound and vibration) So I read a lot about different scenarios tested in neutral pressing to slowing raise the RPM and no vibration, so it must be the drive train. I still have to check the mounts activity when going from D to R back to D in Park, but need to have someone do it for me. Will update. So I read about Torque Converter, front and rear Flex Discs on the drive shaft, Lock solenoid for the tranny, motor mounts and some bearing plus the wheels out of balance, but in my case it only does it on acceleration but you never know since I have 19 inch Mercedes rims low profile. So I am here for advise and shared knowledge folks, thanks in advance for it all.
=right !important

kbob999 01-11-2019 01:35 PM
Check the rear transmission mount for sagging too. I replaced mine at 55K miles due to vibration. They don't last very long.
You can check the motor mounts yourself by opening the hood, setting the parking brake, then putting the car in gear and stepping lightly on the throttle. Do the same in reverse. If the mounts are bad, it will move a lot.

gica69 01-11-2019 04:44 PM
Was your vibration at similar 1500-2000 RPM and only on acceleration? Thanks

kbob999 01-11-2019 04:53 PM
I've got a bluetec diesel, so it runs 1500-2000 RPM most the time.
I'd also look at the flex disk based on the "only under acceleration" while I was under the car. These tend to have more issues under load than not under load,

300SE1993 01-12-2019 06:36 PM
This was happening to mine until I did a fluid and filter change, including the torque converter. Problem went away and hasn't returned. When was your last fluid and filter change (miles ago)?

gica69 01-12-2019 11:29 PM
Originally Posted by 300SE1993 (Post 7652699)
This was happening to mine until I did a fluid and filter change, including the torque converter. Problem went away and hasn't returned. When was your last fluid and filter change (miles ago)?
Never had the tranny fluid changed. You said you had it changed or you did it yourself and just to clarify you changed the torque converter or the fluid in the torque converter?

gica69 01-13-2019 02:11 AM
Video
 
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gfblltfqzi6d2v2/AABf5ss0oSGOVIhB-ZVNQQT-a?dl=0
small clip showing the engine play in neutral with foot on the brake

Money Pit 01-13-2019 05:05 AM
Hi, I also have 2011. I had similar vibration in the same rpm ranges at 74900 km (46560 miles). Usually present under light to mid acceleration and would disappear under heavy acceleration. Dealer replaced engine & gearbox mounts under warranty at the time. It been fine since and I'm now hitting 103000 kms (64000 miles). At the time, Dr Google suggested it would be the mounts :-)

300SE1993 01-13-2019 05:25 AM
Originally Posted by gica69 (Post 7652867)
Never had the tranny fluid changed. You said you had it changed or you did it yourself and just to clarify you changed the torque converter or the fluid in the torque converter?
I did it myself and just the fluid and filter. I drained the fluid from the torque converter as well as the transmission is what I meant.

gica69 01-13-2019 04:53 PM
This is a guide that I found for the 500 model and there are things that it's said are required. Like a plastic white overflow piece that has to be pushed in before lowering the pan to get most of the fluid out to measure it properly and avoid a mess. There is a manual or compressed air based filler device that you use with an adapter that screws on to the pan. So can you mention what you did for the torque converter what filter kit, tools etc. you used. Thanks in advance for the info.

300SE1993 01-13-2019 07:53 PM
Originally Posted by gica69 (Post 7653295)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5-95_YQ0H0
This is a guide that I found for the 500 model and there are things that it's said are required. Like a plastic white overflow piece that has to be pushed in before lowering the pan to get most of the fluid out to measure it properly and avoid a mess. There is a manual or compressed air based filler device that you use with an adapter that screws on to the pan. So can you mention what you did for the torque converter what filter kit, tools etc. you used. Thanks in advance for the info.
It's been a while, but there's a seller on Ebay who will supply you the whole kit. i think he goes by benzexpert or something like that. I can't remember if it comes with the threaded adapter, but he does include the IR thermometer. I used a fluid transfer pump and a bucket to pump the fluid in. It can be a bit tricky getting the pan back in. Some torque converters do not have a drain plug, but you should be able to rotate the engine and look through the inspection hole until you see it (or not)

It wasn't a horrible job, but just make sure you have everything ready to go. I couldn't find my drain plug right as the temp was where it needed to be and that caused some drama.

Edit: Here's the Ebay seller. Great guy to work with and helpful https://www.ebay.com/sch/benzexpert/...1&_ipg=&_from=

gica69 01-14-2019 01:52 AM
So you're saying that there is a drain plug on the torque converter itself and it's accessible underneath through an inspection whole? So you just remove the bolt and it drains or you have to do something special? And the refill is through the pan or through the same whole? Which tranny do you have the 722.9 or the 722.6?

300SE1993 01-14-2019 05:24 AM
Originally Posted by gica69 (Post 7653597)
So you're saying that there is a drain plug on the torque converter itself and it's accessible underneath through an inspection whole? So you just remove the bolt and it drains or you have to do something special? And the refill is through the pan or through the same whole? Which tranny do you have the 722.9 or the 722.6?
Yes, at least on my car there it. You have the same year and mofel so most likely should have the drain plug on the torque converter itself as well. It's a tiny little thing, that drain plug. I have the 722.9 7 G Tronic Plus. My transmission takes the blue fluid. If you give benzexpert your VIN, he will make sure you have the right kit.

Here's a thread with some info from when I did this job: It's not for the "Plus" but similar procedure and some info:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ce-thread.html

MBNUT1 01-16-2019 09:05 PM
Help me understand something. After you have filled it you warm the transmission and then let it drain until it is sputtering. So how is it that you will get a liter out when you first drain it and it is cold? the reason I am asking is I would like to take a fluid sample of my transmission fluid and am wondering if I can do that without having to re-adding the small sample of fluid. If it comes out at great rate then obviously I will have to add more. But I'm not getting why any will come out if it was barely dripping out when it was warm. I am assuming of course that the fluid has expanded at the higher temperature.

300SE1993 01-17-2019 06:31 AM
Originally Posted by MBNUT1 (Post 7656258)
Help me understand something. After you have filled it you warm the transmission and then let it drain until it is sputtering. So how is it that you will get a liter out when you first drain it and it is cold? the reason I am asking is I would like to take a fluid sample of my transmission fluid and am wondering if I can do that without having to re-adding the small sample of fluid. If it comes out at great rate then obviously I will have to add more. But I'm not getting why any will come out if it was barely dripping out when it was warm. I am assuming of course that the fluid has expanded at the higher temperature.
I think the difference is car running vs. car not running. In theory, you should be able to start the car when cold and open up the plug and nothing should come out until it gets to 45C. Again, just a theory. I've never tried it.

gica69 01-19-2019 02:59 AM
There is a white overflow tube that is plugged in the pan through the inside, that's why you take out the overflow first by pushing it in and the fluid rushes out, remove pan more fluid drains out in 24 hrs. So if you warm up the car the excess fluid will rise above the overflow tube and after draining the excess you get the sputtering. Pretty simple.


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