After tightening lug bolts , brakes stay engaged tening
#1
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2010 E350 4matic
After tightening lug bolts , brakes stay engaged tening
I have a 2010 W212 4matic , I put new rims on it , I then ordered new chrome lug bolts . I took one lug bolt one at a time replacing the old ones with the new ones, after tightening the lug bolts ( Yes a little shaking fo the car , naturally while tightening ) . I sat in and put it in drive , but it stayed as if the emergency brake was on , the trans engaged , I tried reverse and drive . I gave it a good push on the gas , not too much and smelled burning brakes. I stopped smell all the calipers but no smell , as if it came from the emergency brake system which was not engaged. I pushed the emergency pedal then released it . Car on then off then on again and the problem went away. The next I tightened the bolts again , found one or two loose , and again a little shaking of the car and it happened again . Any answers guy ? Thanks , by the way second time I gave it a lil throttle , no smell ,turned the car off then on and same with emergency brake pedal , did not happen again , car shifts great etc .... puzzled ,....
This is before the new lug bolts
This is before the new lug bolts
#2
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Are the new bolts possibly too long? Would it be possible for them to bind something if they went in too far, bottom out? Wheels touching anything inner or outer?
#3
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2010 E350 4matic
That is what I thought , I pulled one bolt and they are same size , I thought maybe they were a tad longer and may have pushed on the rear rotor possibly pushing on the E brake pads ? Just puzzled but this
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2010 E350 4matic
- 14x1.50 R.H.
- Chrome
- 60 Degree Cone Seat 1.1" Thread Length
- 6 Spline Dual Hex 19mm & 21mm Key
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Bolts might be the same length, but did you compare thickens of the rim?
Stick the bolts in new and old rims and compare how much length you have on other side?
Also I hope you made sure the new wheels have proper R14 radius?
Stick the bolts in new and old rims and compare how much length you have on other side?
Also I hope you made sure the new wheels have proper R14 radius?
#7
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2010 E350 4matic
Description
Tuner Installation Kit. These bolts have a thread length of 1.1" and are made for aftermarket cone seat wheels only, NOT for use on OEM wheels on Volkswagen, Audi or Mercedes Benz. Please verify the thread length needed and the seat on your wheels before ordering. Tuner Installation Kits should be torqued by hand only.Features & details
- 14x1.50 R.H.
- Chrome
- 60 Degree Cone Seat 1.1" Thread Length
- 6 Spline Dual Hex 19mm & 21mm Key
- These bolts have a thread length of 1.1" and are made for aftermarket cone seat wheels only, NOT for use on OEM wheels on Volkswagen, Audi or Mercedes Benz. Please verify the thread length needed and the seat on your wheels before ordering. Tuner Installation Kits should be torqued by hand only.
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2010 E350 4matic
So , I took the aftermarket lug bolts off and replaced them with brand new stock gray color lug bolts and the problems is gone. After looking at all the lug bolts that came off it appears ( Or rather I think) due to the cone shape of the aftermarket lug bolts they may have seated deeper then the stock bolts. Definitely causing some kind of binding on the rear rotors , probably pushing on the emergency brakes. I checked everything out in the rear and the front and no damage seen , drove the car for a few miles and no problems . Weird problem .... but seems to be fixed now. I will post pics of the aftermarket lugs another time.
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2011 E550 - 4Matic, 2008 ML550
Not 100% full proof - but one simple way to check
put the stock wheel on and count the number of rotations on the lug bolt..
Repeat with the aftermarket setup...
That should be a good indicator too if you bolt is to long or too short.
put the stock wheel on and count the number of rotations on the lug bolt..
Repeat with the aftermarket setup...
That should be a good indicator too if you bolt is to long or too short.
#12
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NO!!! You can NOT use the stock lugs with aftermarket wheels!!! Stock are Ball type, aftermarket are cone type! YOUR CAR IS NOT SAFE!!! DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR AS YOUR WHEELS WILL NOT STAY TIGHT AND MAY COME OFF THE CAR AND/OR CAUSE AN ENORMOUS AMOUNT OF DAMAGE!!!
#13
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You also need to remove the rear wheels and rotors and make sure you didn't damage your park brake shoes/linkages/cables. If you use screws that are too long and are actually able to get the car to move at all, you WILL tear up a lot of things in the park brake assembly...
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