Airmatic pressure relief valve problem
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Airmatic pressure relief valve problem
Looking for some 2011 E550 help.
Recently, I my rear suspension was dropping and I was getting the "vehicle raising" warning. I took it to the dealer and was diagnosed with a valve block and compressor that were not up to snuff. I replaced both and the problem persisted. Checked back with the dealer and they advised replacing the rear airbags. Ordered a pair and replaced them. Problem solved for the last few weeks until...
The other day I started my car after work and got a "malfunction" warning. The one with an outline of the car with an arrow inside pointing up. The suspension was not dropped but, I did notice the button for raising the vehicle was not functioning and the car seems to be riding high. I plugged in my code reader and got the error code C155E13 "The pressure relief valve for the system pressure has a malfunction. There is an open circuit. ". I phoned Arnott and asked for help since the pressure relief valve is A with the compressor. They asked for the error code and said the compressor needed to be replaced. I just replaced the compressor at the end of January. Received my new compressor and installed it today. I cleared error code and when I started the car, the same error code appeared. With a little googling this error code often is associated with a broken wire attached to the pressure relief valve. I really investigated that area and the possibility of a broken wire but, did not find any broken, pinched or frayed wires close to that connection. With my code reader, I can read the pressure values of each component and they all read zero. Which is clearly not the case because I can drive the car and hear the compressor run from time to time. I tried my dynamic seat function and they all seem to function as they should. The car is drivable but, the suspension is too high, especially in the rear. I have an appointment booked for next week at the dealer but, would love to solve it myself and save the hassle.
This one has me scratching my head for sure. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Recently, I my rear suspension was dropping and I was getting the "vehicle raising" warning. I took it to the dealer and was diagnosed with a valve block and compressor that were not up to snuff. I replaced both and the problem persisted. Checked back with the dealer and they advised replacing the rear airbags. Ordered a pair and replaced them. Problem solved for the last few weeks until...
The other day I started my car after work and got a "malfunction" warning. The one with an outline of the car with an arrow inside pointing up. The suspension was not dropped but, I did notice the button for raising the vehicle was not functioning and the car seems to be riding high. I plugged in my code reader and got the error code C155E13 "The pressure relief valve for the system pressure has a malfunction. There is an open circuit. ". I phoned Arnott and asked for help since the pressure relief valve is A with the compressor. They asked for the error code and said the compressor needed to be replaced. I just replaced the compressor at the end of January. Received my new compressor and installed it today. I cleared error code and when I started the car, the same error code appeared. With a little googling this error code often is associated with a broken wire attached to the pressure relief valve. I really investigated that area and the possibility of a broken wire but, did not find any broken, pinched or frayed wires close to that connection. With my code reader, I can read the pressure values of each component and they all read zero. Which is clearly not the case because I can drive the car and hear the compressor run from time to time. I tried my dynamic seat function and they all seem to function as they should. The car is drivable but, the suspension is too high, especially in the rear. I have an appointment booked for next week at the dealer but, would love to solve it myself and save the hassle.
This one has me scratching my head for sure. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
#2
Out Of Control!!
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 15,903
Received 4,415 Likes
on
3,145 Posts
'71 Pinto
Consider before dealer visit:
Visually check sensors/wiring: acceleration b24/3 & 4; b22/8 & 9 front level; and b22/7 & 10 rear level.
Check, pull, reinsert fuse f12 @ front SAM (engine compartment); check f160 @ front pre-fuse; check, pull, reinsert f68 @ rear SAM (trunk).
Check control unit location – wiring, corrosion, etc.
All fine, dealer needs to revisit using Xentry diagnostic procedure(s) and check for system updates.
Visually check sensors/wiring: acceleration b24/3 & 4; b22/8 & 9 front level; and b22/7 & 10 rear level.
Check, pull, reinsert fuse f12 @ front SAM (engine compartment); check f160 @ front pre-fuse; check, pull, reinsert f68 @ rear SAM (trunk).
Check control unit location – wiring, corrosion, etc.
All fine, dealer needs to revisit using Xentry diagnostic procedure(s) and check for system updates.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 9,067
Received 1,730 Likes
on
1,380 Posts
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
You bought 1 compressor 2 months ago and now you bought 2nd one?
All MB parts have 12 months warranty and since you had it done at dealer, why don't you let them to deal with it?
Good scanner allows for operating and testing relieve valve, so no need to drop parts blindfolded.
All MB parts have 12 months warranty and since you had it done at dealer, why don't you let them to deal with it?
Good scanner allows for operating and testing relieve valve, so no need to drop parts blindfolded.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Konigstiger, thanks for the help! I tried my best with the suggestions but, ran into a few snags, see below.
My appoint is on April 1st so, I have some time to explore.
Consider before dealer visit:
Visually check sensors/wiring: acceleration b24/3 & 4; b22/8 & 9 front level; and b22/7 & 10 rear level. Am I understanding this correctly the ride height sensors?
Check, pull, reinsert fuse f12 I checked the fuse f12 all good.@ front SAM (engine compartment); check f160 @ front pre-fuseThe f160 not sure how to disassemble front pre-fuse.; check, pull, reinsert f68 @ rear SAM (trunk). f68 is part of a pack of fuses with a bar across them not sure how to remove that.
Check control unit location – wiring, corrosion, etc. Visual inspection performed and everything looks factory fresh there.
All fine, dealer needs to revisit using Xentry diagnostic procedure(s) and check for system updates.
Visually check sensors/wiring: acceleration b24/3 & 4; b22/8 & 9 front level; and b22/7 & 10 rear level. Am I understanding this correctly the ride height sensors?
Check, pull, reinsert fuse f12 I checked the fuse f12 all good.@ front SAM (engine compartment); check f160 @ front pre-fuseThe f160 not sure how to disassemble front pre-fuse.; check, pull, reinsert f68 @ rear SAM (trunk). f68 is part of a pack of fuses with a bar across them not sure how to remove that.
Check control unit location – wiring, corrosion, etc. Visual inspection performed and everything looks factory fresh there.
All fine, dealer needs to revisit using Xentry diagnostic procedure(s) and check for system updates.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
You bought 1 compressor 2 months ago and now you bought 2nd one?
All MB parts have 12 months warranty and since you had it done at dealer, why don't you let them to deal with it?
Good scanner allows for operating and testing relieve valve, so no need to drop parts blindfolded.
All MB parts have 12 months warranty and since you had it done at dealer, why don't you let them to deal with it?
Good scanner allows for operating and testing relieve valve, so no need to drop parts blindfolded.
Thanks for the help.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 9,067
Received 1,730 Likes
on
1,380 Posts
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I no longer have airmatic, but I think I have seen menu for it in iCarsoft
Also check if MaxiEcu have airmatic in their menu.
Without scanner it might turn costly repair.
Also check if MaxiEcu have airmatic in their menu.
Without scanner it might turn costly repair.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update: I picked up the car yesterday afternoon from the dealer. Their electrical technician found the broken wires that were giving the Airmatic malfunction. He replaced the wires and it is good to go. The wires are located right at the compressor where the pressure relief valve plugs in. They even took a picture of the problem wires and included it in the documentation.
This is exactly where the internet advised to look but, I could not locate the problem. Also, having just replaced so many of the components it was purely coincidence that this failed at this time. They charged me the diagnostic fee and a half of an hour labor. Thanks to those that chimed in.
This is exactly where the internet advised to look but, I could not locate the problem. Also, having just replaced so many of the components it was purely coincidence that this failed at this time. They charged me the diagnostic fee and a half of an hour labor. Thanks to those that chimed in.
Trending Topics
#8
Wire Picture
Update: I picked up the car yesterday afternoon from the dealer. Their electrical technician found the broken wires that were giving the Airmatic malfunction. He replaced the wires and it is good to go. The wires are located right at the compressor where the pressure relief valve plugs in. They even took a picture of the problem wires and included it in the documentation.
This is exactly where the internet advised to look but, I could not locate the problem. Also, having just replaced so many of the components it was purely coincidence that this failed at this time. They charged me the diagnostic fee and a half of an hour labor. Thanks to those that chimed in.
This is exactly where the internet advised to look but, I could not locate the problem. Also, having just replaced so many of the components it was purely coincidence that this failed at this time. They charged me the diagnostic fee and a half of an hour labor. Thanks to those that chimed in.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
This what the dealer provided. The wires were not broken on the outside but internally. Also they were not completely broke just not consistently supplying 12v.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just replaced my rear rear springs as the left one obviously had a leak. Before that I replaced the valve block only because my car is 10 years old and the valve block will fail one day. With a new one I can be quite sure it will not fail on me.
Im thinking to replace the compressor and it seems I have a leak in front now.
These are mechanical machines and will fail over time so there is nothing wrong doing some preventive maintenance. If I have to replace all Airmatic components once in 10 years I can live with it.
Don't feel bad doing what you did. Some people hate Airmatic because after it gets old enough components will fail but it is such an awesome suspension I will have it in my car’s going on regardless of the maintenance it seems to require in 10 years interval.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Arrie,
Thank you, all good points. I love the feel of the Airmatic as well.
I still can't believe this car is almost 10 years old!! Smiles for miles!
Thank you, all good points. I love the feel of the Airmatic as well.
I still can't believe this car is almost 10 years old!! Smiles for miles!
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
I don't give much weight for the colors on the cluster display not carplay etc. the new cars have. I have all I need as I drive my car alone at all times so nobody needs an internet while I drive and for that I have a remote hot spot I can use if I ever need connection on my way.
Smiles for miles indeed!!!