Another E550 Brake Thread
 

I’ve looked through dozens of threads, but haven’t found anything recent or old that talks about where to purchase new front rotors for the facelift 2014 E550 4MATIC sedan, other than Autozone. I did the Autozone rotors 3 years ago, vibration developed again, got them replaced under warranty. Vibration came back, got them cut and now the vibration is back yet again.

Im ready to try decent rotors and checked the Centric site. They don’t offer front rotors for this year/model. I would really like to get a set of non-drilled rotors for this car. Does anyone have a source?

If you don't use OE use either Textar or Zimmermann. Only two other options.

I had great luck with Centric Stoptech rotors on my 2014 E550 coupe. OEM lasted less than 4000 miles both times I used them. The Centric lasted over 20k miles. Cheap too!

You didn't read enough. 2014 should be the same as 2012-2013. Centric Premium (aka StopTech) rotors. It's in the threads.

I read every thread I could find.

I have seen people mention the non-drilled Centric rotors. The only thread I have found with a part number for Centric rotors was for drilled, and that part number is 128.35118. I’m hoping someone can share a part number or link to the non-drilled version.

Centric’s own website lists no front rotors for the 2014 E550 sedan. I just tried the 2013, and it only shows the drilled rotors. I sent them a message looking for details, but I figured someone here has found what I’m looking for since it has been mentioned in a few threads.

Did you get the drilled rotors? Since you are talking about the coupe, I would assume it’s not the same as the sedan.

I used the drilled Centric rotors and they are fine. Make sure you get the 360mm ones.

You won't find non-drilled rotors, as the OEM are drilled. Just go for the Centric premium drilled. The part number above is correct. Multiple threads with reports of success with these including myself. I also got the Centric ceramic pads with them.

Only 4k miles??? WTF? Do you drive downhill riding the brake everyday>
?

I think they are referring to how long before shaking / vibration comes back, not actually worn out. It's well know that stock rotors have issue with warping, or some say it's possibly build-up of material coming off the stock pads and sticking to the rotors causing vibration rather than actual metal warp. Be sure to torque the lugs properly.

Ive been going through the same thing with my 2014 E550 4Matic. No one really makes front rotors or brake pad for this car. I ended up going with racingbrake rotors and their XT910 pads. They are every expensive but great rotors. I just HATE the x910 brake pads, and have DISC ITALIA TITANIUM KEVLAR pads on the way. If those dont do the job, im going to try Poterfield R4-S pads.

The only place Ive been able to find blank rotors is brakeperformance.com, but ive never tried them. I think the cause of our vibration issue is actually the stock pad, which seems to leave pad residue on the rotors

I checked several places for reference, the 2014 rotors are the same part number as 2013 and 2012. Just buy the Centric.

Centric makes front rotors but the OP is looking for non-drilled rotors.

True, but I went ahead and ordered the Centric pads and drilled rotors. I don't think the stock pads are what causes the vibration, unless Autozone uses the same manufacturer or composition. I had the problem with a stock set up and and Autozone set up. Let's hope I have better luck with the Centric like others seem to have.

I believe I used Pagid pads with good results.

I have never had warping, gunk filled holes, or issues with the stopping power of the stock OEM rotors and pads. Yeah, there is brake dust, but I clean my car and it’s not a problem. 2014 E550 4M. I just swapped out of my winter setup and this is what everything looks like. I may have jumped the gun, since we got 8” of snow 5 days ago. Ha
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...e4f91302e.jpeg
E550 4M front brake

I'm having a very bad shaking and i'm wondering if it could be my brake rotors. What's sad is they're not even a year old yet. And they were aftermarket drilled. I got the powerstop EBR877XPR and now when i replaced the OEM rotors. Can it be that they have warped too?? Also, I've never owned a car that crushed rotors like this one. WTF?

I need options. I've rotated wheels, rotated tires, CHANGED tires, and the problem is still there. I'm trying to not go to the stealership. Is there any way I can tell if my rotors are warped in the garage?

Did you follow a proper bedding procedure on the new rotors and brake pads when you installed everything?
Are the rotors clean like in my photo and devoid of any pad transfer build up in areas on the rotor face? The build up can cause the pedal to pulse, which feels like a warped rotor.

Good day everyone - I have seen so many threads on this - I spent a long time researching this...

Please watch this video - to understand the real issue -

I can tell you after 2 sets of new OEM rotors, Centric and Brembo rotors - with 3 different sets of pads AND 2 different E550s (1 RWD and my current 4M).
Finding a dealer with a Pro-Cut lathe and having new rotors checked and then turned (I know it sucks) but there is runout from the start...(I think its an inherent Hub issue)

17K miles later - still brakes smooth as day 1 - not had any pulsing or vibration issue since.

I hope someone else confirms and trys this...I have the video of the Procut on my car - its a a pretty cool process and worth every penny.

Cheers
JP

Whatever brake components you decide upon, be very sure the hub and rotor surfaces where they meet are clean, clean. That's a big factor impacting runout.
Also ensure that the caliper pins are properly lubricated with something like Syl-Glyde, not a petroleum based grease that will react with the rubber boots.

This is for my E350 but the same principle applies for the caliper pins/boots, including consideration of changing out the brake fluid....
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...2011-e350.html

That is an excellent and comprehensive brake replacement write up, Mud. Lots of very good information not found in most brake DIY threads. The follow up on the run out issue you had also points out that some components can be defective as well. I also am a believer in possessing a good torque wrench and checking lug torque on occasion to verify all is good. Improper lug torque, especially on rusted surfaces can make a difference on runout. The 98 ft/lb of torque is not a very high torque, so it’s important to make sure all lugs are equal. The torque on my Shelby lugs is 150ft/lbs and trust me when you get up that high it’s easier to make them equal.

I did not. I never had to before and didn't think it really mattered as I've done it on my previous clk and never had to do the bedding procedure.

Good morning Happy Easter,

I have been having the same issues with "warped rotors" that everyone here seems to be experiencing on my 2011 E550. As with most posts, I have tried factory and aftermarket rotors to no avail. I've tried the dealer, independent mechanics and even did the job myself over the years. Made no difference whatsoever.

Another common theme with our cars is the "softness" or fragility of our AMG wheels. I have replaced or repaired all of mine at some point over the last 5years. I was thinking that maybe these two issues could be related. My thought was, what if our wheels are flexing ever so slightly and allowing some movement in the wheel, rotor and hub assembly? What if the recommended torque specs (96 ft.lbs.) for the lug bolts was too low? After all, these bolts hold the whole assembly together.

Now my rotors have about 6K on them and under light braking my steering wheel shakes significantly. As I apply more pressure it goes mostly away but, it is still there. I thought what the heck and I adjusted my torque wrench to 140 ft.lbs. and retightened my lug studs on the front wheels using the appropriate sequence to 140ft.lbs. Hopped in for a quick test drive and the shaking in the steering wheel under light braking is gone. I couldn't believe it. It has been over a month now and it has not returned. I am so tempted to start over with new rotors and pads to see how good I can get it but, can't justify the expense given the vast improvement. Maybe it is a fluke.

Thoughts?
Thanks and have a great day.

In your case, it appears you may have overcome your runout issue by putting the clamp on the wheel and disk. Since MB prefers lugs over studs I would follow the recommended torque values. The lugs are designed for a certain stress and snapping one off into the hub would really suck. I’ve had 2 E550 4M now along with a W211 E500 4M and none of them have experienced brake shimmy. It can’t be that I’m just a lucky guy. Torquing the lugs is a key part of a successful relationship with these front brakes.

are you saying I have to get my rotors shaved? isn't that more expensive than getting rotors?