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I know... in the offroad world they have cameras meant to be mounted under the truck to see whatever they like to see.
These cameras are very robust since they get hit with stones, mud and water.
Maybe get one and mount it somewhere back onto frame or such where you can see forward and line it up with bottom edge of chin spoiler so as you get close you can see if curb is too tall and when to stop.
would need small monitor as I doubt you could feed it into existing system.. maybe someone makes a BT one so shows up on phone?
Ok go another suggestion. I know in my front interior light there are a few buttons that the function for is not there. You could remove that function or splice into it and use the button already built in. Turn on map light could be used as the power button if reading at night isn't your thing.
Ok go another suggestion. I know in my front interior light there are a few buttons that the function for is not there. You could remove that function or splice into it and use the button already built in. Turn on map light could be used as the power button if reading at night isn't your thing.
Thanks for the ideas. They make sense for a long-term installation.
Given the electronic complexity of these cars, I think it prudent for the moment to experiment with a standalone system that does not require more than power from the car, and does not connect to other systems. I still haven't decided whether to try a camera system, or a simpler radar system, which can be positioned below the bumper and aimed at a downward angle. The idea is to limit any beam interference with the parking sensors in the bumper above.
My wife's car does not have a sensory system, but does have the same curb stop problem. So I might start there. Had the system in the OP come with all the required parts as advertised, it would be installed by now.
Thanks for the ideas. They make sense for a long-term installation.
Given the electronic complexity of these cars, I think it prudent for the moment to experiment with a standalone system that does not require more than power from the car, and does not connect to other systems. I still haven't decided whether to try a camera system, or a simpler radar system, which can be positioned below the bumper and aimed at a downward angle. The idea is to limit any beam interference with the parking sensors in the bumper above.
My wife's car does not have a sensory system, but does have the same curb stop problem. So I might start there. Had the system in the OP come with all the required parts as advertised, it would be installed by now.
Thanks again for the ideas.
How about you take one of the front middle parking sensors and move it down to the lower part. Of course, needs an empty hole covered and a new one made for the new location. Perhaps could be mouthed somehow behind the mesh in the lower part without making a hole for it...
My car has 4 parking sensors and the system would work just fine with one of the middle ones missing. And my parking sensors often see the wheel stops too but not always.
I've noticed the W213 (E300) has it's sensors mounted lower. Amazing that Mercedes-Benz didn't think of this sooner. I will look at the sensor parts behind the bumper. If one of the middle sensor external buttons can be kept where it is, but the guts of the sensor repositioned lower, that might be an option to look into..
I've noticed the W213 (E300) has it's sensors mounted lower. Amazing that Mercedes-Benz didn't think of this sooner. I will look at the sensor parts behind the bumper. If one of the middle sensor external buttons can be kept where it is, but the guts of the sensor repositioned lower, that might be an option to look into..
It would allow using the existing parking system as it is with no modifications or additions of any kind other than moving the sensor. Perhaps you could buy an extra sensor and leave the originals in place. Just move wiring to the new sensor located lower.
It would allow using the existing parking system as it is with no modifications or additions of any kind other than moving the sensor. Perhaps you could buy an extra sensor and leave the originals in place. Just move wiring to the new sensor located lower.
Exactly what I was thinking. Provided the wiring loom at the chosen sensor can be unbraided long enough to permit dropping it a good 10-12 inches to it's new location below the bumper. I can probably design a 3D printed mount for it to work with the lower grille.
All we need is to ask our friend Konigstiger to find the parking sensor loom illustration and part number (LOL). I've looked at a couple part sites already, and am not sure what I should be searching for. Parts I'm finding are not labeled as I would expect.
I also wonder if a new sensor will need programming for the system to recognize it? If programming is involved, then the fallback option is to move the entire sensor below and 3D print a backing for the outside button left in the original location.
Lots of "ifs" involved here, just as with the other options.
After further thought prompted by a PM from another member, I have decided not to pursue the idea of relocating an existing bumper sensor below the bumperline. My car has Code 258 - Collision Warning System w/ Active Brake Interval FCW Stop. Moving a sensor out of its normal plane could affect the function of this feature.
So I think I will consider sensor systems that don't interact with existing features of the car.
After further thought prompted by a PM from another member, I have decided not to pursue the idea of relocating an existing bumper sensor below the bumperline. My car has Code 258 - Collision Warning System w/ Active Brake Interval FCW Stop. Moving a sensor out of its normal plane could affect the function of this feature.
So I think I will consider sensor systems that don't interact with existing features of the car.
I think the collision warning system is with the radar you have in the front, not with the parking ultrasound sensors...but I don't know for sure.
And congratulations for your car of the month nomination. Your car/you really deserves it!
I think the collision warning system is with the radar you have in the front, not with the parking ultrasound sensors...but I don't know for sure.
And congratulations for your car of the month nomination. Your car/you really deserves it!
Thanks. I don't have Distronic in my car, so FCW Stop has to work either with the bumper sensors or the Lane Keeping Assist forward camera behind the internal rear view mirror. I'd sure like to find a document that clearly defines how these systems work. MB often describes safety benefits without any details.
Thanks. I don't have Distronic in my car, so FCW Stop has to work either with the bumper sensors or the Lane Keeping Assist forward camera behind the internal rear view mirror. I'd sure like to find a document that clearly defines how these systems work. MB often describes safety benefits without any details.
Found the below. It talks about the system in CLA and it says it works with radar sensor. I always thought the small parking sensors in the bumper work with ultra sound and it would be difficult to believe these tiny sensors could be strong enough to send radar waves for hundreds of feet distance to do what the below link explains.
Have you checked that you don't have some sort of radar sensor behind the grille in front of your car. They may have built the car with the Distronic radar sensor but it is used only for the FCW.
Honda, I think< use the camera in the windshield for this.
Konigstiger, after a lot of thought, I agree with you (and my thoughts in post #33) that the initial plan still makes better sense... That being to install an aid that is 1) independent of existing car systems and 2) does not interfere with existing car systems. I forgot about Parktronic, which I use often. So I don't want to mess with that system.
In contrast, an independent system can be easily installed, and easily removed, if it doesn't work well enough.
The diagrams you posted shows my sole area of interest, the "Area not scanned" at the front of the car. The external sensors described in Post #1 make good sense, even if it means to point the sensor at a downward angle to limit/avoid interference with the bumper sensors.
Thinking about where to find power at the bumper, I am wondering if I can install power for this in series (spliced into) my illuminated grille star... Thoughts?
Well, I must be the only bloke here (without 360 camera) concerned about pulling off the front bumper with these aggressive concrete bumpstops. Just three weeks ago, I used a heat gun to bend a 2" under-bumper tear back in place.
Fixed... (see post #17 above for the "before" pic)
I've ordered the camera above, yesterday. It will arrive tomorrow. I've already installed the Casoda App on the smart phone, and it appears to work well, offering both landscape and portrait display modes. I'll do some testing before installing the camera under the front bumper.
I'll post some pictures here... if anyone is at all interested?
OK, this camera is tiny... just under 7/8" on a side. It is very well made and completely sealed from the elements (per IP69 standards for waterproofing).
It's aperture is small enough that I think it will shoot through the diamond facets in the grill (mounted from behind where it's hard to see).
So now, the question is how to remove the black, lower grille to find mounting areas behind. This grille is part #200 on the front grille schematic (below), but the drawing shows no fasteners to explain how it attaches to the painted bumper.
Is this grille just a pop-in that can be removed from the front (without removing the bumper)?
I've watched a couple videos on how to remove the bumper. Turns out that I may not have to remove the bumper at all. Instead, I think I may be able to access the back side of the lower grille simply by removing the engine splash shield, held in place by 5, 8mm bolts.
This would be preferred, so as to keep all the bumper/grille parts in place. This way, I can create an adjustable bracket, attach the camera, and tune the aim of the camera (through the lower grille) as I go.
Has anyone removed the engine splash shield? To drain engine oil from below? Is it as simple as it appears?
Has anyone removed the engine splash shield? To drain engine oil from below? Is it as simple as it appears?
Yes, it's straightforward.
(I couldn't replace the lower grill on my C class without removing the bumper cover.) But, I think you should be able to access the lower grill to mount the camera from behind. I hope you are successful on the E.
(I couldn't replace the lower grill on my C class without removing the bumper cover.) But, I think you should be able to access the lower grill to mount the camera from behind. I hope you are successful on the E.
Here's a view from one of the bumper removal videos. It's not to clear, but once the undertray is removed, it shows the back of the grille (to left). Now to design a bracket...
I've watched a couple videos on how to remove the bumper. Turns out that I may not have to remove the bumper at all. Instead, I think I may be able to access the back side of the lower grille simply by removing the engine splash shield, held in place by 5, 8mm bolts.
This would be preferred, so as to keep all the bumper/grille parts in place. This way, I can create an adjustable bracket, attach the camera, and tune the aim of the camera (through the lower grille) as I go.
Has anyone removed the engine splash shield? To drain engine oil from below? Is it as simple as it appears?
Yes it is, 4-6 screws . in the past with my S class's my wife would frequently get stuck on parking bumpers, luckily then she learned to hit the raise button on the airmatic, then pull out. She drove my '12 for the first two years and never had an issue, it has parking sensors but I don't think that helped much. Then we got the "13 sport, an inch lower and ground effects which made it two inches lower. she works at a local college so when she gets stuck in her parking spot which is just outside the gym complex, she goes and gets 2 football/basketball/ rugby/ baseball guys and they lift the front end while she backs off the parking bumper, this happens less frequently now, but on occasion, we both forget! Now mostly we both just park two-three feet away, even in the '12. I find your workaround intriguing!
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Nov 25, 2021 at 09:36 AM.
BTW, one of my initial concerns about a wireless camera was the possibility of poor transmission past the engine, firewall, into the cabin, etc. However, this kit may have this covered. Included in the package (but not shown on Amazon) is a remote WIFI antenna with 78" cable. It plugs into a 10" pigtail from the camera, allowing 7-1/2 feet of cable to position the antenna above the engine and closer to the firewall. A separate power cable provides 10 feet of length, hopefully enough to reach the driver-side fusebox, where I can add it to the existing wiring for my aftermarket illuminated star.
Today is Thanksgiving, so I am busy with family commitments of course. Tomorrow (or the weekend), I hope to wire up all the components close to their anticipated installation positions to test how it works to my smartphone (before trying to install in the car). One step at a time.
Good luck with this and Happy Thanksgiving! The camera is the way to go. I do use my forward camera , which is set on my console favorites button. I always turn it on when approaching those BS concrete bumpers. Whoever designed the height of them back in the day should be xxxxx! They could be half their height and still work unless you go granny and smash the gas instead of the brake.
Today I tested the system (unistalled but laid out as proposed), and it works great. Excellent resolution, which is the same with engine running or off.
Then I installed the round, WIFI antenna on the passenger's side vertical wall next to the cabin air filter intake above the battery. Reception from this place through the firewall to my smart phone mount on the dash air outlet vents (no more than 3-4 feet away) is superb. In this location, there is plenty of wire leftover to route to the proposed location in the lower bumper grille...
I also wired the power (+) to the fusebox, piggy-backing on my existing fuse tap for the Illuminated Star. And there remains plenty of wire to route under the bumper as well. The negative wire is grounded to the top of the shock tower. Retest and everything still works.
Two hours later it's dark, leaving me to plan the next steps for Sunday, as it will be raining tomorrow. The next step is to finalize the routing of the cables to the lower bumper grille area. But more important, the really major step is to put the car on blocks so I can get my 70 y-o carcass under the car, remove the engine shield and test camera installation ideas. Stay tuned.
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