Transmission issues
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Transmission issues
My transmission isn’t very smooth. Well it’s okay if I drive like my mom but whether floor it a bit, it holds and drops back hard. Is there a solution. My transmission pan and oil have been replaced recently. I’ve ruled that out since the rough transmission has always been there.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
#2
Super Member
My transmission isn’t very smooth. Well it’s okay if I drive like my mom but whether floor it a bit, it holds and drops back hard. Is there a solution. My transmission pan and oil have been replaced recently. I’ve ruled that out since the rough transmission has always been there.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
#3
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2014 E350 also restored: 1969 Camaro convertible SS 1957 Chevy Belair 2dr hardtop
Merceds benz is noted for faulty transmissions. go to dealer and have them reset the trans so it can learn again. After about the 5th time my trans started to work correctly. MB knows about the faulty trans but they do not have a fix.
#4
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#5
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Thread Starter
Thanks I’ll try that. I’ve read on here about the transmission reset with the gas pedal. Not sure if that’s for real or not. Do you know if the dealership will charge me? And if so, any idea how much? I guess I could just call them
#6
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The transmission is pretty good. The electronics that control it are the problems sometimes, hence the reset. To reset it is to clear out the memory, as it’s a “learning” transmission. I also think it has something to do with gaming the EPA / MPG import tax for German cars in general. I say this because VW/Audi is also known for their gear boxes acting sluggish and goofy when driven in automatic mode in a normal routine, on true dual clutch gear boxes. It’s the electronics...
To reset it is very simple.
If you have keyless start:
With car completely off, press the gas peddle all the way to the floor, and while holding it in that position - press the start button twice to get all of the car’s electronics to come on (don’t worry, car won’t start because you’re not on the brake pedal). Keep holding the gas pedal down for approximately 30 seconds, then while keeping pedal down, turn off the car and let it sit for a minute or two. Next time you drive it, the race to the bottom of the gear range should be far less intrusive. It’ll learn you again, and you’ll have to reset it again like this when you start to feel it acting sluggish.
For key start, do the same but instead of tapping on the starter button twice - just turn the key to the second position right before the start position.
On the hard hitting down shifts - how’s your trans mount? Has been my experience with any car that when it starts to thump/bump/slam under those situations, 85% of the time a mount is worn that is allowing the torque to shift the equipment against the frame touch point, and also introducing slack into the overall system. The other 15% of the time, it was fluid/filter/solenoid related. Also, when was the last time you changed the rear diff gear oil? That can play a part too if it’s worn out.
We have a Toyota Highlander with 110k miles on it now (2013). It was shifting hard recently, clunking around. Trans fluid is good. But the transfer case and rear diff were ready. Did that this past weekend, and it’s back to smooth as glass.
To reset it is very simple.
If you have keyless start:
With car completely off, press the gas peddle all the way to the floor, and while holding it in that position - press the start button twice to get all of the car’s electronics to come on (don’t worry, car won’t start because you’re not on the brake pedal). Keep holding the gas pedal down for approximately 30 seconds, then while keeping pedal down, turn off the car and let it sit for a minute or two. Next time you drive it, the race to the bottom of the gear range should be far less intrusive. It’ll learn you again, and you’ll have to reset it again like this when you start to feel it acting sluggish.
For key start, do the same but instead of tapping on the starter button twice - just turn the key to the second position right before the start position.
On the hard hitting down shifts - how’s your trans mount? Has been my experience with any car that when it starts to thump/bump/slam under those situations, 85% of the time a mount is worn that is allowing the torque to shift the equipment against the frame touch point, and also introducing slack into the overall system. The other 15% of the time, it was fluid/filter/solenoid related. Also, when was the last time you changed the rear diff gear oil? That can play a part too if it’s worn out.
We have a Toyota Highlander with 110k miles on it now (2013). It was shifting hard recently, clunking around. Trans fluid is good. But the transfer case and rear diff were ready. Did that this past weekend, and it’s back to smooth as glass.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The transmission is pretty good. The electronics that control it are the problems sometimes, hence the reset. To reset it is to clear out the memory, as it’s a “learning” transmission. I also think it has something to do with gaming the EPA / MPG import tax for German cars in general. I say this because VW/Audi is also known for their gear boxes acting sluggish and goofy when driven in automatic mode in a normal routine, on true dual clutch gear boxes. It’s the electronics...
To reset it is very simple.
If you have keyless start:
With car completely off, press the gas peddle all the way to the floor, and while holding it in that position - press the start button twice to get all of the car’s electronics to come on (don’t worry, car won’t start because you’re not on the brake pedal). Keep holding the gas pedal down for approximately 30 seconds, then while keeping pedal down, turn off the car and let it sit for a minute or two. Next time you drive it, the race to the bottom of the gear range should be far less intrusive. It’ll learn you again, and you’ll have to reset it again like this when you start to feel it acting sluggish.
For key start, do the same but instead of tapping on the starter button twice - just turn the key to the second position right before the start position.
On the hard hitting down shifts - how’s your trans mount? Has been my experience with any car that when it starts to thump/bump/slam under those situations, 85% of the time a mount is worn that is allowing the torque to shift the equipment against the frame touch point, and also introducing slack into the overall system. The other 15% of the time, it was fluid/filter/solenoid related. Also, when was the last time you changed the rear diff gear oil? That can play a part too if it’s worn out.
We have a Toyota Highlander with 110k miles on it now (2013). It was shifting hard recently, clunking around. Trans fluid is good. But the transfer case and rear diff were ready. Did that this past weekend, and it’s back to smooth as glass.
To reset it is very simple.
If you have keyless start:
With car completely off, press the gas peddle all the way to the floor, and while holding it in that position - press the start button twice to get all of the car’s electronics to come on (don’t worry, car won’t start because you’re not on the brake pedal). Keep holding the gas pedal down for approximately 30 seconds, then while keeping pedal down, turn off the car and let it sit for a minute or two. Next time you drive it, the race to the bottom of the gear range should be far less intrusive. It’ll learn you again, and you’ll have to reset it again like this when you start to feel it acting sluggish.
For key start, do the same but instead of tapping on the starter button twice - just turn the key to the second position right before the start position.
On the hard hitting down shifts - how’s your trans mount? Has been my experience with any car that when it starts to thump/bump/slam under those situations, 85% of the time a mount is worn that is allowing the torque to shift the equipment against the frame touch point, and also introducing slack into the overall system. The other 15% of the time, it was fluid/filter/solenoid related. Also, when was the last time you changed the rear diff gear oil? That can play a part too if it’s worn out.
We have a Toyota Highlander with 110k miles on it now (2013). It was shifting hard recently, clunking around. Trans fluid is good. But the transfer case and rear diff were ready. Did that this past weekend, and it’s back to smooth as glass.
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#8
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I’ve not done the diff yet (or trans - I’m at 40k miles on a 2014), but getting close to doing all for my own sake. Can’t think the diff would be hard, but I don’t know for this car..
#9
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I'm not aware what the interval is for rear diff fluid change... if there even is an interval.
#10
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#11
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2014 E550-sold 😩
I have the same car and transmission. No complaints from me with this transmission at all.
#12
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What model year? Given electronics easier to update than transmission, I suspect some newer ones have adjusted settings from the factory to address the issue?
Last edited by nc211; 07-08-2019 at 10:15 AM.
#13
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2014 E550-sold 😩
I have never had to do a learn reset, but in all fairness no one else drives this car. It is driven every day as my daily driver and all maintenance by the book.
#14
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I had the transmission service done at 160000 miles and I asked the technician about it and he replied differential fluid is kind of no change item but that it would be good time to change at that time, which was also done.
#15
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2014 E550-sold 😩
My 2010 E550 does not even have the differential oil change listed in the maintenance booklet. It is not planned to be changed within the mileage the booklet covers.
I had the transmission service done at 160000 miles and I asked the technician about it and he replied differential fluid is kind of no change item but that it would be good time to change at that time, which was also done.
I had the transmission service done at 160000 miles and I asked the technician about it and he replied differential fluid is kind of no change item but that it would be good time to change at that time, which was also done.
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#17
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2014 E550-sold 😩
#19
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Man, that’s a sweet car! I can’t see your signature on the iPhone. I’ve often wondered if this transmission wasn’t better suited for that monster engine over the 3.5V6 that I have. I don’t think I recall many in the 550 segment really complaining too much about the trans being goofy, mostly in the smaller 350 segment like me.
#20
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Man, that’s a sweet car! I can’t see your signature on the iPhone. I’ve often wondered if this transmission wasn’t better suited for that monster engine over the 3.5V6 that I have. I don’t think I recall many in the 550 segment really complaining too much about the trans being goofy, mostly in the smaller 350 segment like me.
#21
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Thank you. That is an interesting theory about the transmission being a better match for this high torque engine. There obviously is a much smaller pool of 550's out there, but I have not seen too many complaining about the transmission. There are several boosted and tuned 550's and the transmissions seem to be holding up just fine.
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