Need help figuring out what wheel bolts to buy for my setup.
 

Hello Everyone.

I have a 2014 E350 and recently purchased a set of 20-inch wheels off of a 2017 E43 AMG for a steal (Attached are a picture of what they look like). But when I went to install the wheels, I neglected to consider the Wheel Bolt length and quickly realized that they weren't long enough to accommodate the wheels.

The rims have the same diameter at 20 inches but are staggered with the front being 245/35/20 and the rear being 275/30/20.

I called 3 separate Mercedes Dealership and all of them gave me conflicting numbers on the Shank Length that would work for my car. So far I've gotten values like 44, 44.5, and 48. The last Mercedes dealership had someone incredibly helpful who was able to break down the measurements the other dealers provided me but ultimately told me to go to the nearest Mercedes dealership with the wheels and mess around with the 4 or so wheel nuts Mercedes uses across all of their models which is what I may ultimately end up doing.

But I figured I'd come here first and inquire about which Wheel nuts you guys use along with a recommendation for a cheaper option as the dealership quoted me $100 for a full set of 20 wheel nuts which honestly seems like a ripoff to me.

Thank you.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...5b7761f9a2.jpg

You need 45mm OEM bolts, p/n A0009907607. (Note: 245/35-20 may not fit upfront).

The E43 AMG uses the same sized wheel bolts on the front and back. I have 245/35/18 tires and the wheels are 18 inches and appear identical in size (granted they're 20 inch wheels). So I'm assuming that the wheel nuts I currently have should fit the front. The part number for the Wheel nuts I currently have is A0009908307. If not, would you happen to know what wheel nuts would fit the front?

When I bought a set of used 17s, to downsize for winter use, I also found the bolt size to be too short. I took a stock wheel off and measured how much bolt protruded out of the hub side. Then I measured the same protrusion length from the “new” wheel and calculated the difference. I then added that difference to the current bolt shank length and ordered a new set from Amazon, being careful to select the correct lug seat shape (conical). I paid $28 for them. I’ve run them one winter and all was fine despite my overthinking and excessive worry. Hope this helps.

You were right on the dot. I ordered this exact part after some more digging and the wheels fit. The 2/45/35/20 do fit up front but they poke out by about an inch. I may have to get the fenders rolled.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...0c97b00cd3.jpg

The poke upfront has nothing to do with tires' size, but everything to do with wheels' offset. Since you're using E43 wheels - 20x8 et20 front and 20x9 et49 rear - the fronts' poke (though not readily visible in the above shot) has to be at least 1/2" (it is significant IMHO). The rears' offset also "make" tire to be tucked-in a bit too much, but that's me and as long as you're happy, that's all that counts.

Going back to 245/35-20 tire do you have clearance here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...d-img_2372.jpg.

If you're clear then its because you are using "extreme" for W212 non E63 front offset, had you be using a more appropriate offset of et30 to et35, I bet your front tire would rub on that perch.

Edit: just noticed that you said front poke is 1" - that's is huge (not going to get to how it looks discussion, with such a massive poke) and is the only reason 245/35-20 front tires do not touch/rub on lower perch. As stated above W212 should use front offset not lower than et30 for 8" wide wheel, but then front with those tires would rub.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...654934f4af.jpg

I guessed wrong and actually measured the front poke. It looks to be less than half an inch. See picture above.

my tires have no rubbing unless I turn the wheel to the maximum degree or go over a high speed bump.

What would you propose for this setup? I was considering simply getting a half inch spacer for the rear to match it with the front and rolling the front fenders to accommodate the wheels. Would flipping the wheels from the front to the rear make a difference?

There's nothing you can do regarding that poke (IMHO 10mm is still a lot as at some angle it does not look "right"), unless you change the wheels out ( but it is clear you won't).

Agree, using 10mm rear spacers would make rear to be a bit less tucked in and more "inline" with front, so I suppose that is next for you. Do not forget you'll need 55mm R14 bolts (I would suggest to get bolts here: https://otisincla.com/product/rad-lu...l-seat-hex-17/ ).

I was planning on taking the car to a couple body shops to see if anything can be done to extend the front fenders to accommodate the wheels but if nothing can be done than my last bet would be to sell the wheels. I only paid $1,000 for the wheels, tires, and sensors so I won't be losing any money if I were to sell them.

I love the wheel design and think it fits with the car but if it ultimately comes down to fitment than I would have no choice but to sell them. You seem knowledgeable about all this. My question to you would be if you happened to know if there are identical wheels like these that would fit my car much better?

I know that the C43 AMG also came with similar looking wheels (the spokes aren't nearly as aggressive but they still look good). Would these wheels fit better or would fitment still be an issue?

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...7272a05b67.jpg

I believe C43's are 19s. You need W212 E63's front fenders (which are 10mm wider) to "remove"/hide the poke (not cheap). IMHO, bodyshops won't be able to do anything (they can not extend existing fenders). eBay has "identical" (or very, very similar looking, but without AMG lettering) replicas to the 20s you have now. You need to get correct offset (et30-40) for the front. Finally, keep in mind that with correct offset for W212, 245/35-20 front tires most likely will rub on the spring perch in the picture I posted above.

The wheel/tires/tpms came directly from W213 E43/E53? If yes, did the sensors work on your car? I know that W212 to W213 tpms are not compatible, so it would be logical for W213 sensors not to work on W212 as well.

Edit: W212 E63 conversion posted in the pictures thread - https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7809764. These fenders will make your front E43/E53 wheels flush on W212.

I wouldn't mind downsizing by an inch if it means that the wheels can fit flush without any significant adjustment. I believe all I would need to do if the C43 wheels are good would be to get bigger tires for the front?

Rolling the fenders would be a cheaper way of doing it but the front bumper goes up significant enough to where the result might not come out too good.

I saw the replicas on eBay and was a little skeptical of the quality as I figured I could get an authentic set for roughly the same price. I'm not sure if I'd trust the replicas even if the fitment is correct. I understand that the offset is the key issue here.

I've noticed rubbing on the wheel well (if I turn the wheels to their maximum angle and also over big bumps) but I didn't notice or hear any rubbing on the spring perch. I will have to lift the car up and take a closer look to see if there's any rubbing in that general area.

I have the W212 sensors in my possession and was planning on swapping them into these wheels but that plan may have to be scrapped because of the admittedly bad fitment. I had no real intention of going extreme with modifications and doing a whole facelift so I may end up selling these wheels or trading them for a set that fits better. I love the wheels and they fit the car overall look pretty well so it's unfortunate that I'll have to get rid of them but I guess nothing can really be done about it...

Make sure you are complying with the higher load rating tire index for the E class when using a lighter car's wheels (i.e., C class).