E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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Comprehensive Guide on W212

Old Nov 24, 2021 | 03:04 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ml3504matic____
M276 Engine Oil Dipstick Popping up: This is an issue either with the Breather Valve or O-Ring of the Dipstick. Check by starting engine and removing the engine oil cap and putting your hand over. You should feel your hand wanting to be sucked in. If this is the case, the oil dipstick o-ring needs to be replaced. If you hand has the feeling to want to move upwards, the breather valve needs to be inspected.
Thanks for the guide. Can you elaborate on what the pressure would feel like? I have had my dipstick pop up recently, and after starting the engine, I felt no pressure upwards or downwards. Would the (cheaper) solution be to replace the o-ring on the dipstick and see if the problem keeps occurring?
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by DeTh
Thanks for the guide. Can you elaborate on what the pressure would feel like? I have had my dipstick pop up recently, and after starting the engine, I felt no pressure upwards or downwards. Would the (cheaper) solution be to replace the o-ring on the dipstick and see if the problem keeps occurring?
Interestingly the dipstick on my car has popped up probably 3 times in 70K miles. The first time I thought it was my fault, i.e. forgot to push it correctly last time, but the car was missing about 1 quart (nearly 10K miles since the last service). I got the message about checking the oil . So took it for service. After service, I checked the dipstick was set correctly.

It happened again, this time I knew it was something else, but coincidentally @8K miles and missing @half a quart, so I let it as it was. The last time it did, it was missing about half a quart as well.

Thanks to this thread, I will try to correlate it to the crankcase pressure the OP mentioned (great thread by the way)
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 02:55 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by juanmor40
Interestingly the dipstick on my car has popped up probably 3 times in 70K miles. The first time I thought it was my fault, i.e. forgot to push it correctly last time, but the car was missing about 1 quart (nearly 10K miles since the last service). I got the message about checking the oil . So took it for service. After service, I checked the dipstick was set correctly.

It happened again, this time I knew it was something else, but coincidentally @8K miles and missing @half a quart, so I let it as it was. The last time it did, it was missing about half a quart as well.

Thanks to this thread, I will try to correlate it to the crankcase pressure the OP mentioned (great thread by the way)
Hmm. I may have to check my oil then. I do an oil change every 3000 miles so I'm not super worried about oil consumption.
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Old Nov 26, 2021 | 01:51 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Blkvip
for the "All way Air Distribution through vents". does anyone have a how to on the coding. or a link the place that can do it?
I believe this can be done via Xentry and setting the climite into DIAG mode. It will allow all way air distrubution.
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Old Nov 26, 2021 | 01:53 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by DeTh
Thanks for the guide. Can you elaborate on what the pressure would feel like? I have had my dipstick pop up recently, and after starting the engine, I felt no pressure upwards or downwards. Would the (cheaper) solution be to replace the o-ring on the dipstick and see if the problem keeps occurring?
Yes. I personally have not felt the pressure. It's just an aspect that I've noticed over time. Check the O-Ring for the dipstick. Its probbaly worn out. If it continues to happen or you hear howleing in an extreme case, it will most likely be the PCV Value. There is a video on Youtube with a GLK X204 with M276 with an extreme case of that.
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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 09:22 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ml3504matic____
Here are the general issues that come to mind for when I was looking for a W212. Personally I see threads discussing issues around "What should I be looking for when looking for an E****???"

Here is my general guide to help you
Note: None of the photos below are mine

Firstly: I think its quite interesting to watch the prototype videos to see where this car has come from:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FwPjDn8fwk
They show a 180 ponton in the beginning which is what my father brought home 60 years ago and began of my association and love of the Marque. I can remember him taking me to the car that night and climbing into the front seat and looking at the steering wheel. It cemented the definition of quality in my mind. I love the ponton styling ques on my E350.

Last edited by MBNUT1; Nov 27, 2021 at 09:25 AM.
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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 03:41 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by DeTh
Hmm. I may have to check my oil then. I do an oil change every 3000 miles so I'm not super worried about oil consumption.
Because of this thread and approaching 10K Miles on the oil, I just went to check the oil and the dipstick popped out again, cleaned and measure and missing half a quart one more time. So, oil service this week.

I may check the crankcase as described above tomorrow
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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 06:27 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ml3504matic____
I believe this can be done via Xentry and setting the climite into DIAG mode. It will allow all way air distrubution.
must be xentry. just checked DIAG mode. didnt see anything
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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 06:52 PM
  #34  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Failed PCV...

Originally Posted by juanmor40
Because of this thread and approaching 10K Miles on the oil, I just went to check the oil and the dipstick popped out again, cleaned and measure and missing half a quart one more time. So, oil service this week.

I may check the crankcase as described above tomorrow
Juan, when the crankcase pressure is allowed to build up, the PCV is no longer holding minimal vacuum. So diaphragm check-valve is bad.

I haven't seen my dipstick pop yet, only the intake oil swamp and missing over 1Qt when my M276 was just a couple years old. So the oil separator is also bad...
I wonder how they can design a bad PCV centrifuge separator and not improve it?


intake excess oil catch-can
This cuite container stores all the engine oil hoosing back out of the intake at throttle valve.

When the crankcase builds up pressure the engine oil gets forced out through infamous connectors and dipstick... I think it's better to let the dipstick pop easily than the tiny heat-exchanger gasket.

There must be people who have managed to fix this before us!!



Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 27, 2021 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 09:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Juan, when the crankcase pressure is allowed to build up, the PCV is no longer holding minimal vacuum. So diaphragm check-valve is bad.

I haven't seen my dipstick pop, only the oil swamp in my intake track and the missing of over 1Qt when my M276 was just a couple years old. So the oil separator is also bad... I don't know how that's possible with a spinning centrifuge.

When our crankcase builds up pressure the engine oil gets forced through a few famous connectors... I wonder how the oil pressure sensor is not leaking or is it leaking too under pressure?

Thank you Cali for the advice.
Back home, engine still hot but I needed to check those famous connectors . Both from driver side are perfectly dry . Passenger side admission dry as well, but I need to take the air box out to pull the exhaust one out. That one for tomorrow, hope it is dry as well.

Notice a lot dirt around both timing covers, not sure if due to spill during oil changes, and lack of cleaning after their job? I will clean tomorrow and monitor them.

I have to admit I ran the engine a bit harder a few days ago, say 12xMPH , perhaps not as much as Surya . If I do not find anything obvious by checking the oil cap, i may give it another run ( not easy to find a long stretch w/o traffic ) and see if the dipstick pops out.

Just saw your update . I recall cleaning the catch can @40K while checking the throttle body. I will check it as well. I think MB added it after the M272/M273 issue with the intake manifold. A generation too late
​​​​​

Last edited by JCM_MB; Nov 27, 2021 at 10:03 PM.
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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 10:14 PM
  #36  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Venting out too much oil...

Let your dipstick be free to pop when the pressure is high enough!

The more we try to keep that engine tightly sealed, the more it needs to vent high pressure somewhere with weak seals.

The trouble is the stock PCV dumps too much engine oil (quarts/liters) in the intake... Is there a known revised part to mitigate that flaw?
​​​​​​

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 30, 2021 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2021 | 06:07 AM
  #37  
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Another note to add: 2014 mid way changed front wiper release design.
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Old Feb 23, 2022 | 03:38 AM
  #38  
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New issue to watch out:

Blind Spot Sensors causing the vehicle to go sporadic. Vehicle enters limp mode with a whole host of lights

Some people may just get a "Blind Spot inoperative and Pre-Safe Functions Limited" but this is because its either the driver side radar going bad. From what I've been told by a 3rd party, its typical for the passenger one top throw all the faults and issues in the CAN Network

Including but not limited to:
  • ESP Inoperative Message
  • Pre-Safe Functions Limited Message
  • ABS and Parking Brake Light
  • Cruise Control Inoperative Message
  • Highbeam Assist Plus inoperative Message
  • Airbag Restraint System Inoperative Message
  • Do Not Shift Gears. Visit Dealer/Workshop Message
  • Stiff Steering - Loss of electric steering
  • Limp like mode driving
  • 360 Camera going black or not shutting off
  • Parktronic not functioning
  • Unable to shut off vehicle
  • Unable to shift into Drive
  • Harsh Shifting
  • Command Navi reading as "Off-Road"
  • Run Flat Indicator Inoperative
  • Blind Spot Inoperative Message
  • Indicators not functioning
  • Auto Lights not working

This is a C292 but similar host of issues is apparent on 212 and other chassis


Problem: Most likely Blind Spot Sensors falling and causing a short in the CAN Network - $3000 CAD Repair at Dealer

$700-1000CAD per Blind Spot Radar Sensor
~$150CAD for harness

+ Labour at $180CAD an hour + Diag

Parts are on backorder globally at the moment.

Last edited by ml3504matic____; Feb 23, 2022 at 03:49 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2023 | 10:20 AM
  #39  
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Can Admins sticky this thread?

Last edited by ml3504matic____; Jan 10, 2023 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2023 | 10:24 AM
  #40  
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M156:

Leaky Valve Covers:

It tends to be a common issue for this engine. Unsure if W212 M156's use plastic valve covers, but the covers can warp and form micro cracks. Essential to check upon purchasing.
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Old Jan 2, 2024 | 05:09 PM
  #41  
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Fixed???

Originally Posted by ml3504matic____
New issue to watch out:

Blind Spot Sensors causing the vehicle to go sporadic. Vehicle enters limp mode with a whole host of lights

Some people may just get a "Blind Spot inoperative and Pre-Safe Functions Limited" but this is because its either the driver side radar going bad. From what I've been told by a 3rd party, its typical for the passenger one top throw all the faults and issues in the CAN Network

Including but not limited to:
  • ESP Inoperative Message
  • Pre-Safe Functions Limited Message
  • ABS and Parking Brake Light
  • Cruise Control Inoperative Message
  • Highbeam Assist Plus inoperative Message
  • Airbag Restraint System Inoperative Message
  • Do Not Shift Gears. Visit Dealer/Workshop Message
  • Stiff Steering - Loss of electric steering
  • Limp like mode driving
  • 360 Camera going black or not shutting off
  • Parktronic not functioning
  • Unable to shut off vehicle
  • Unable to shift into Drive
  • Harsh Shifting
  • Command Navi reading as "Off-Road"
  • Run Flat Indicator Inoperative
  • Blind Spot Inoperative Message
  • Indicators not functioning
  • Auto Lights not working

This is a C292 but similar host of issues is apparent on 212 and other chassis

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7TTz_d82e8

Problem: Most likely Blind Spot Sensors falling and causing a short in the CAN Network - $3000 CAD Repair at Dealer

$700-1000CAD per Blind Spot Radar Sensor
~$150CAD for harness

+ Labour at $180CAD an hour + Diag

Parts are on backorder globally at the moment.
hey did you get this fixed. I'm having same issue now on 2014 e250 bluetec. Car Is going crazy with all issues
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Old Jan 2, 2024 | 05:29 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by E250w212
hey did you get this fixed. I'm having same issue now on 2014 e250 bluetec. Car Is going crazy with all issues

Hi, yep! Got a free loaner while they were at it for the day.
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Old Jan 2, 2024 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ml3504matic____
Hi, yep! Got a free loaner while they were at it for the day.
What was the issue? Blind Spot Sensor failure. If i unplug them for now, will that eliminate the issues with the other systems
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Old Jan 2, 2024 | 07:03 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by E250w212
What was the issue? Blind Spot Sensor failure. If I unplug them for now, will that eliminate the issues with the other systems
The issue was related to the blind spot sensors. Unplugging them will solve the problem. Note you will need a harness if you do so, due to corrosion or you may already need one as well.

You'll need to let the car cycle (Turn off the car for 10 min or so) to reset the system.
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Old Jan 14, 2024 | 06:09 PM
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The blower motor went bad on my 2008 E350 but it is very easy to replace. Maybe the same is true for W212. I bought a Behr blower motor on-line and it had a mercedes logo scratched off but "Behr" was still there. Paid $200 but it whistled, so I sent it back. I'm guessing that it was manufactured by Behr, didn't meet the Mercedes spec. so they simply scratched off the Benz logo and sold it under their own name. I then bought one from Advanced Auto that was also noisy. Since the blower is held in place by metal screws into plastic, I figured I better not be replacing it too may times before the metal screws ruined the plastic it was going into. Hated to do it, but went to a MB dealer and bought one for $400. I spoke directly to the Parts Manager and she told me I could return it if it made noise. Well, it whistled and squeeled intermittantly and I took it back. She then told me that I had to bring the blower motor AND the car into their service dept where they would re-install the bad motor and evaluate the cause. I told her I would NOT surrender my car, especially since she had told me I could simply return it for replacement. I puit the blower on the counter and left. About a week later I called and they said they would get me a replacement. I put the replacement in and have no problems. This is my experience with blower motors and Dealer Parts Departments. BE CAREFUL if you need to buy a replacement blower motor, especially from a dealer !
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Old Jan 14, 2024 | 06:29 PM
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Thanks for the info on how to fix the sticking Parking Brake pedal but I'd NEVER use WD-40 because of the strong stink it leaves. There are other lubricants with little or no smell. Anyone trying this fix should be aware that they may stink up their interior if they use WD-40. Not being critical, just pointing out a potential problem that would be hard to undo.
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Old Jul 31, 2024 | 06:08 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 2013 E350
Thanks for the info on how to fix the sticking Parking Brake pedal but I'd NEVER use WD-40 because of the strong stink it leaves. There are other lubricants with little or no smell. Anyone trying this fix should be aware that they may stink up their interior if they use WD-40. Not being critical, just pointing out a potential problem that would be hard to undo.
@2013 E350 I had a similar concern that turned out not to be warranted. The area where the lubricant is applied is somewhat isolated from the cabin. I am sensitive to those kinds of things and found the smell dissipated very quickly.

When I had the parking brake issue, I used WD-40 first to free up the cable and then silicone spray for longer term lubrication.
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Old Jul 31, 2024 | 06:43 PM
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wd-40 is also not a very good lubricant. its mostly kerosene with just a bit of light oil. its good for cleaning stuff thats gummed up, and if something was greased, a little wd40 can help loosen up that old grease to get it to spread around again, but I'd much rather use something like Triflow as a light oil for lubing cables and pivots and such, or Silicone lubes like LPS1.
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Old Dec 7, 2024 | 05:50 PM
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Bumping this thread.....
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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 11:29 PM
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