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W9 ground for E1, E1 means LEFT side headlight.
The E2 headlight may use other or closer to it ground stud.
You must also test to make sure the +12V is there and can take the load. use 50 watts halogen to test.
From that small portion wiring diagram , your headlight is driver/electronic driven and not a simple mechanical relay and is from N10/1 Front SAM.
Have fun troubleshooting.....
To note :
MB way of naming their options in data card, for early car can be confusing when we use the wiring diagram.
The word Bi-Xenon in headlight code 615 becomes only XENON in wiring diagram and sadly the headlight code is not mentioned in the wiring diagram, unlike 641 dynamic led .
Somehow there is a disconnect between sales people and engineers who make the wiring diagram title.
Also we must understand that in 2009 when this car were first introduced, wiring diagram engineers would not know what variants of new headlight or even engines later down the years.
I am having the same problem for my engine which is M276.8 3.0 turbo, where before this turbo engine was made available, it was M276.9 3.5 NA.
Many older than 2013 documents, would assume M276 was the only engine and I sometime got sucked into this problem by having a WIS auto page connect, linking me to
M276 engine which means M276.9 and not M276.8. Sometime me got to make a guess.... sometimes.
The same with ECO start stop. From code B03 with baby 12amps battery at the trunk, some later W212 of say 2016 will get a capacitor instead of extra battery.
Anti voltage dip capacitor it is called.
The facelift cars wiring and more so the most uncommon engine like mine, is like a pariah.... information get buried deep and hard to find in WIS.
Let's connect couple more dots today. We are going to help reduce battery struggles in polar blizards and in tropical Bali conditions
Big load means big current over poor connection creates voltage losses plus dirty glitchy power.
Imagine what happens when you have a heavy load connected to chassis Iike HL or 100A fan??
Well it overheats your main battery! Here is how:
Our oversized 12.5V lead-acid AGM battery is perfectly well connected to chassis GND.
That is unlike our ALT power source, that needs to connect through the undercarriage single strap.
With a basic dual-path GND there is not voltage dipping and no premature wasting of battery.
With well designed chassis, the Battery work is limited to a 2 second crank (besides ECO cycles).
Personally I am not a fan of creating poor conditions and using battery to conceal that with another new battery.
-- SA: Your battery test proves it's bad now. It needs to replace it. 👏
-- Can't argue with that, 100% true statement.
Happy CAN'ed computers need normal electricals just like engines need normal oiling...
That's not even related to deep drain while driving.
???? Batt Overheat forces charge voltage to backs off safely...
We know the Hyundai sensor tracks core battery lead temperature.
Imagine the salty stras overheats the battery...
what is then ECU forced to do??
Backoff charging... on/off cycles... -- IS THIS OUR YOYO DRAIN BELOW 12.3V ??
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 20, 2023 at 05:36 AM.
W9 ground for E1, E1 means LEFT side headlight.
The E2 headlight may use other or closer to it ground stud.
You must also test to make sure the +12V is there and can take the load. use 50 watts halogen to test.
From that small portion wiring diagram , your headlight is driver/electronic driven and not a simple mechanical relay and is from N10/1 Front SAM.
Have fun troubleshooting.....
To note :
MB way of naming their options in data card, for early car can be confusing when we use the wiring diagram.
The word Bi-Xenon in headlight code 615 becomes only XENON in wiring diagram and sadly the headlight code is not mentioned in the wiring diagram, unlike 641 dynamic led .
Somehow there is a disconnect between sales people and engineers who make the wiring diagram title.
Also we must understand that in 2009 when this car were first introduced, wiring diagram engineers would not know what variants of new headlight or even engines later down the years.
I am having the same problem for my engine which is M276.8 3.0 turbo, where before this turbo engine was made available, it was M276.9 3.5 NA.
Many older than 2013 documents, would assume M276 was the only engine and I sometime got sucked into this problem by having a WIS auto page connect, linking me to
M276 engine which means M276.9 and not M276.8. Sometime me got to make a guess.... sometimes.
The same with ECO start stop. From code B03 with baby 12amps battery at the trunk, some later W212 of say 2016 will get a capacitor instead of extra battery.
Anti voltage dip capacitor it is called.
The facelift cars wiring and more so the most uncommon engine like mine, is like a pariah.... information get buried deep and hard to find in WIS.
I only done the engine bay side and all ground points supporting that area.
This is because them points has the worst working condition by heat and by dirt.
W70 and W9 ground points
Location of W2/1 ground point for my car is at the LEFT side near and underneath W70 and W9. Not on the car right side as per WIS.
For my car, W2/1 is the electric power steering. I have not looked up and verify this via schematic, I trace it physically.
W2 ground point
There is a ground point to transmission + engine bell housing interface, which means this is closest to starter motor, but I can't find its ID number from WIS.
Also it is not indicated in where we can see starter motor in a schematic, example Start Stop System.
This is the biggest cable of all, same size as the negative battery cable to front strut top mount , the W10 ground point.
Left side CAT is the reference location for my car.
I can't access the cable end at bell housing, so that one I can't clean . Only can clean the other end.
W11 or ECM/ECU wiring assy ground. Opening up those clips at this plastic cable duct is a nightmare. I don't want to break anything, so gentle I must be.
2 final clip facing firewall, that I can't open due to no room for me to "dig" out the clip. Must create a special tool for jacking up this clips nicely and non-breaking.
.
.
Will continue..............
HELLO I drive a w211 2008 e350 4matic USA any idea how I could fix this
( I stripped the ground bolt near the starter and I’m unsure of what to do in this situation does this connect to anything else or is it just a ground do I need it?)
Get a wider angle photo so that I know where that actually is and its surrounding component. I am not familiar with other than W212 and W204 sedan.
Yours would be W211 if 2008 yes ?
That broken stud seems to be made of brass and is not steel threaded stud welded to chassis like W212 WTF ground post to engine starter/tranny housing.
I think your version of ground stud has another connection bolted inside the car interior, because it is not welded type.
Thanks for your detailed information and pictures, do you know where the motor blower ground point is located, i have no air coming from the vents, blower and climate control unit fuses are good, installed new blower and its resistor still no air, control unit works fine but blower is not spinning, I tested the blower connector coming out from the car it reads 12v for positive but 0v negative, im pretty sure something is disconnected or loose.
I assume you know how read wiring diagram..... 4 PDF attached.
W15/7 is the ground for left hand drive car with HVAC blower at RIGHT side of car.
A32 is the speed controller ( resistor some people call it ) of the HVAC blower motor. M1 is the blower motor itself, also called A32m1.
Seems to be very close to A pillar bottom.
My car is Right Hand Drive and is facelift model, for my HVAC blower ground it will be LEFT side of floor for its W15/5 ground , yours being LHD car uses W15/7 ground.
See below : There is a steel plate on my left floor to firewall if I want to find my W15/5, like a protection steel bracket for some electronic module/s, I think your W15/7 ground would be similar...maybe.
I was cleaning my blower. The more dirt on it, the more unbalanced it becomes and will shake and destroy the bearing
I forgot to explain in better detail, so that you can be certain to trace all bad contacts, if any :
Depending on year of production of your car, you can see -->05/10 ( meaning up to May 2010built date ) or 06/10 ---> ( meaning after June 2010 built date ), you must get VIN decoder to print out your car data card to
see this.
Assume yours is 06/10 ---> ( meaning after June 2010 built date ), so the negative or ground connection to the motor m1 is via 2 intermediate connector.
One small one called x1 and the bigger one X18(4) or X18 number 4.
You must make sure their female pin is tight fit to the male pin.
.
If only X18, it is then X18(1) or number 1.
The 2nd or third or 4th X18 will be written as X18(2) and so on. You are to look for X18(4)
The W15-7 itself is a shared ground stud with many other components. So you will see many cables there and not for HVAX blower only.
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Just so you know, Mercedes wiring information some are wrong if not confusing.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
. Only can clean the other end.
