When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Pictures of rusted rear subframe causing instability when braking
Originally Posted by Sanid98
I jacked up my car to check why it was pulling to the left on braking. My brakes and front end are working perfectly. So decided to check rear end and of wow I could not believe the condition of the rear subframe. That is incredibly dangerous. I am going to try and post the pictures here. if you get a pull on hard braking this may be the issue.
This is driver side rear control arm link to subframe This is the passenger side rear
I jacked up my car to check why it was pulling to the left on braking. My brakes and front end are working perfectly. So decided to check rear end and of wow I could not believe the condition of the rear subframe. That is incredibly dangerous. I am going to try and post the pictures here. if you get a pull on hard braking this may be the issue.
What is the condition of your brake hoses all around. As the rubber ages internal deterioration can make it into one way check valves which would mimic your condition.
This is driver side rear control arm link to subframe This is the passenger side rear
Took my 2011 to the dealer last Thursday for the subframe inspection. The tech found rot which is compromising the structural integrity of the subframe but not to the extent visible on yours. Good news...it's covered...bad news...they're going to call me when part arrives...whenever that is.
Rear Subframe was Replaced and Now the Speed Sensitive Steering is heavy at low speed
dealing with my mercedes dealer right now regarding my 2011 e350 sport 4matic sedan. -they replaced the rear subframe on a recall due to excessive rust, along with the front and rear torsion bars/sway bars. when I got the car back, i immediately noticed the steering was very heavy, tight, and very very reluctant and slow to return to center. the car has the speed sensitive steering system. the dealership claims it was nothing they did, and that any further repairs would require a charge. i called bs citing it happened only after we got the car back.
i was wondering what they would have had remove or take out during the process replace the rear subframe. could the speed sensor in the rear axle have been touched/ or could the rear axle have been affected at all?. -they also grinded the some rusted fasteners and re-welded them accordingly on the. could some wiring related to the speed sensor have been affected? -the speedo itself i believe is reading normally.
i tried to research the steering issue and saw there is a way to reset it. would that potentially work, and does anyone know how to do it/have a video of it?
Hey guys, maybe I missed something — but where do I sign up for this?
You missed something. There's nothing to sign up. It's a US extended warranty. If it's rusted, it will be repaired for free by the MB dealer. If it's not rusted, it won't be replaced. Look underneath the car and see how much rust there is on the subframe.
You missed something. There's nothing to sign up. It's a US extended warranty. If it's rusted, it will be repaired for free by the MB dealer. If it's not rusted, it won't be replaced. Look underneath the car and see how much rust there is on the subframe.
Thanks.
It’s definitely rusted, noticed while doing the rear brakes the other day.
How do I start the process?
Thanks.
It’s definitely rusted, noticed while doing the rear brakes the other day.
How do I start the process?
Well if it's bad enough, take it to an MB dealer and have them look at it and they should replace it. Mine has a little surface rust but it's not bad so I don't think it would qualify.
Well if it's bad enough, take it to an MB dealer and have them look at it and they should replace it. Mine has a little surface rust but it's not bad so I don't think it would qualify.
Just got off the phone with my local dealer’s service dept. They said my car is covered, I have an appointment for them to do a diagnosis next week, if it qualifies they said they’ll order the parts which takes 5-7 days.
Fingers crossed.
I do no understand how can you guys, the one suffering rear subframe corrosion BUT only knows about it till the car behave weird during braking ?
If the said person owns a Quick Jack , that is a total shame to not use the QJ as routine inspection lift, at least twice per year.
When we do alignment , the car will be lifted up, so inspection by you the car owner is much easier to see the underside of the car and the subframe is just one of the component to be inspected.
There are many components under the car to be inspected. The rotating ones. The rubber mounts of exhaust system, there are 4. Flex disc of tranny, there are 2. The long sound shield, there are 2.
Brake lines is partially visible too. Suspension arms rear ones 5 unit, front ones 2 units and some other components I have not mentioned.
I would assume alignment once per 18 months or so would be typical.
I mean : where is the love for your car ? or at least the forward thinking FOR your own safety ?
=======
I would even worry when I see my bolt/nut get rusted, the rear damper one and the rear stabilizer link one, which both resides at the spring control arm.
I worry of rust not because it will fail, but I do not want it to be seized when I undo it next time.
Aside from subframe and many components under the cars, watch out on the condition of the rear hairy fleece wheel well liner, more so on the REAR RIGHT side.
The REAR RIGHT is where the fuel filler hose and activated carbon canister is, if hairy fleece wheel well liner get damaged and rocks fly hitting those plastics fuel system, its not only dangerous
it will cost lots of $$ to replace a fuel tank. The rocks can even hit your brake hose and damaged it. With no hairy fleece wheel well liner which is nice absorber of impact, the metal wall of the
wheel well can ricochet rocks you see.
This is LEFT REAR wheel well
.
The front wheel well plastic fender also must be kept in good condition.
Both Left and Right, their forward region towards the front bumper has lots of expensive stuff which will get damaged by small rocks acting like baby missiles.
All these inspection need you car to be jacked-up decently high, never mind one wheel at a time.
I seen Master Tasos videos where owners of MB in Dubai/UAE ignored the damaged front wheel well plastic fender and the carnage it caused to other components is so sad to see.
I do no understand how can you guys, the one suffering rear subframe corrosion BUT only knows about it till the car behave weird during braking ?
If the said person owns a Quick Jack , that is a total shame to not use the QJ as routine inspection lift, at least twice per year.
When we do alignment , the car will be lifted up, so inspection by you the car owner is much easier to see the underside of the car and the subframe is just one of the component to be inspected.
There are many components under the car to be inspected. The rotating ones. The rubber mounts of exhaust system, there are 4. Flex disc of tranny, there are 2. The long sound shield, there are 2.
Brake lines is partially visible too. Suspension arms rear ones 5 unit, front ones 2 units and some other components I have not mentioned.
I would assume alignment once per 18 months or so would be typical.
I mean : where is the love for your car ? or at least the forward thinking FOR your own safety ?
=======
I would even worry when I see my bolt/nut get rusted, the rear damper one and the rear stabilizer link one, which both resides at the spring control arm.
I worry of rust not because it will fail, but I do not want it to be seized when I undo it next time.
Aside from subframe and many components under the cars, watch out on the condition of the rear hairy fleece wheel well liner, more so on the REAR RIGHT side.
The REAR RIGHT is where the fuel filler hose and activated carbon canister is, if hairy fleece wheel well liner get damaged and rocks fly hitting those plastics fuel system, its not only dangerous
it will cost lots of $$ to replace a fuel tank. The rocks can even hit your brake hose and damaged it. With no hairy fleece wheel well liner which is nice absorber of impact, the metal wall of the
wheel well can ricochet rocks you see.
I seen Master Tasos videos where owners of MB in Dubai/UAE ignored the damaged front wheel well plastic fender and the carnage it caused to other components is so sad to see.
Safe drive guys............
No excuses for people with garages and lifts (which ya need to own one of these contraptions) but atleast here in the US trying to do a inspection on your vehicle while getting an alignment at a shop can be a hard to accomplish thing. Most places dont like ya crawling under the vehicle while they are trying to get ya out the door. Time and money and liability thing I guess. Good advice though on the inspections.
No excuses for people with garages and lifts (which ya need to own one of these contraptions) but atleast here in the US trying to do a inspection on your vehicle while getting an alignment at a shop can be a hard to accomplish thing. Most places dont like ya crawling under the vehicle while they are trying to get ya out the door. Time and money and liability thing I guess. Good advice though on the inspections.
Yes,....in the risky land of I-sue-you,you-sue me as a pastime hobby.... I agree they probably wont allow customer to be under the car.
Well, the good thing about W212 is that the rear toe is part of the alignment procedure and it will show rusty subframe.
Even if per 2 years once the alignment, one can detect the subframe degradation before it can break during a braking event.
Subframe will not simply break apart in 2 years.
.
.
.
.
With rear tires only lasting under or at 20,000 miles for typical mild throttle happy boys, alignment & balancing is to be done 1st when tire is new and 1 more time at tire half-life to compensate for the
typical 7mm less 1.6mm thread depth legal/safety limit. Half of 5.4mm total use-able tire thread depth. Hence the indirect inspection an alignment techy will do for car owner for rust inspection
is well within good time period.
My rear tires will last only 12,500 miles because I am heavy throttle foot and wear off very nicely even having such camber at the rear. Its all about maintenance.
That is why I do alignment and wheel balancing usually at every 5,000KM / 3,100 miles or a bit more, but never exceeding 7,500KM / 4,700 miles.
per 1 year or 10K miles is Tire damage inspection for the inner wall sidewill need a lift, or one to craw under a proper jack stand + extra safety support.
The last one is a good one CHECK CHASSIS AND LOAD BEARING BODY COMPONENTS FOR DAMAGE AND CORROSION . Every 20K miles or 2 years . It is there written.
With our without a lift or Quick Jack, make effort to follow the proper visual inspection at perhaps a shop which allows you 15 minutes 4 post lift rent time or something if you really want to DIY it.
Just got off the phone with my local dealer’s service dept. They said my car is covered, I have an appointment for them to do a diagnosis next week, if it qualifies they said they’ll order the parts which takes 5-7 days.
Fingers crossed.
So unfortunately I was not able to make the appointment and was out of the country until recently. I just called this same dealer back to reschedule my appointment and they’re telling me that they’re now not seeing any open recalls for my vehicle and that “Mercedes must have closed the recall”
A message in all red came up in my cluster telling me to check my brake fluid. I checked and it was low. I topped it off and then the next day got the message. I drove by the MB dealer and they took the car in right away (amazingly). Apparently the break lines were leaking (had some rust). My subframe really didn’t have rust, but what they did was they put in the “claim” for my subframe that is was rusted and needed to be replaced. So basically the labor for the subframe covered the labor for the brake lines and I only paid for the actual brake lines themselves (about $1k).
A message in all red came up in my cluster telling me to check my brake fluid. I checked and it was low. I topped it off and then the next day got the message. I drove by the MB dealer and they took the car in right away (amazingly). Apparently the break lines were leaking (had some rust). My subframe really didn’t have rust, but what they did was they put in the “claim” for my subframe that is was rusted and needed to be replaced. So basically the labor for the subframe covered the labor for the brake lines and I only paid for the actual brake lines themselves (about $1k).
Wow that was super nice of them, they hooked you up!
My service advisor was super nice too!
Did you think it was high or low? I think others have been quoted several grand at MB dealerships. I don't think they have preformed brake lines so you have to bend them and as mentioned earlier it's labor intensive at MB labor rates. Maybe it would be slightly cheaper at an indy because you have to form the brake lines manually and use the old brake lines as a template on how to bend them. Brake lines themselves are pretty cheap. People should probably complain to NHTSA even though they got it fixed. If they later force a recall or an extended warranty, then you'll get reimbursed later. This is probably what happened with SBC brakes, the rusted subframe, fuel tank warranties, etc.
Did you think it was high or low? I think others have been quoted several grand at MB dealerships. I don't think they have preformed brake lines so you have to bend them and as mentioned earlier it's labor intensive at MB labor rates. Maybe it would be slightly cheaper at an indy because you have to form the brake lines manually and use the old brake lines as a template on how to bend them. Brake lines themselves are pretty cheap. People should probably complain to NHTSA even though they got it fixed. If they later force a recall or an extended warranty, then you'll get reimbursed later. This is probably what happened with SBC brakes, the rusted subframe, fuel tank warranties, etc.
The poster said $1000 for the brake lines themselves, I assumed thats just the brake lines the way it was stated. Even fabbing your own thats way high cost. Heck even buying the tools to bend and ferrel the lines isnt that expensive. When I use to work in the aviation industry all the brake lines or hydraulic lines were usually hand made. Either copy old ones or fit as necessary. Was not that bad of a process and relatively quick.
The poster said $1000 for the brake lines themselves, I assumed thats just the brake lines the way it was stated. Even fabbing your own thats way high cost. Heck even buying the tools to bend and ferrel the lines isnt that expensive. When I use to work in the aviation industry all the brake lines or hydraulic lines were usually hand made. Either copy old ones or fit as necessary. Was not that bad of a process and relatively quick.
Well it's an MB dealer so everything is more expensive there so he got away with it cheaply for going to an MB dealer. An indy might have been cheaper or the same, but then again you don't have to run around while the subframe gets done at one place and the brake lines at another, especially with bad brake lines.
04-30-2023, 01:56 PM
Yes,....in the risky land of I-sue-you,you-sue me as a pastime hobby.... I agree they probably wont allow customer to be under the car.
