E-Class (W213) 2016 - 2023

Cigarette lighter socket

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Old 02-22-2017, 04:42 PM
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Cigarette lighter socket

Just read the manual for the tenth time and cannot for the life of me find a 12v socket in the console or anywhere in the front seat area of my E300. Wanted to be able to plug in radar detector or charge a phone. Last physical I had, I'm sure my Dr. would have mentioned me being blind, but he didn't.
Old 02-22-2017, 04:47 PM
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As far as I know there isnt one, much to my chagrin.
Old 02-22-2017, 05:02 PM
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Thanks for the reply. Not sure if this makes me feel better or worse. I'm still annoyed that there is no hard drive for my music. Had to burn it all to SD card.
Saw you also have MDX. So do I. I have hard drive envy.
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Old 02-22-2017, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Imanone
Thanks for the reply. Not sure if this makes me feel better or worse. I'm still annoyed that there is no hard drive for my music. Had to burn it all to SD card.
Saw you also have MDX. So do I. I have hard drive envy.
Vince
I use a USB powered 500GB portable hard drive which sits in my center console...
Old 02-22-2017, 05:19 PM
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Good solution, but I liked the way my HD worked on our BMW and my MDX. I can hook up my ipod and Iphone, but it's just one more thing to do since I don't always use this vehicle and my wife doesn's want to mess with plugging things in. So far, I have just left the SD card plugged in. The big thing that is a pain is that I have to plug my radar detector into the socket in the rear. Not sure why the manual shows a front console socket, though.
Old 02-22-2017, 11:21 PM
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There is one under the rear vent for sure in the little ash tray. Wouldn't be so bad to run the wire alongside between the front chairs...
Old 02-23-2017, 07:48 AM
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I thought about doing that, but I would need to get an 12v cig lighter extension for my Whistler detector as the existing cord is barely long enough to run it straight to the rear plug. The wire sort of hangs in the air between over the front console and I can see me accidentally disconnecting it. I have not had good luck with extension cords in the past as the female sockets seem to have smooth sides and won't hold the male end of the cord. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for the reply.
Old 02-23-2017, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Imanone
I thought about doing that, but I would need to get an 12v cig lighter extension for my Whistler detector as the existing cord is barely long enough to run it straight to the rear plug. The wire sort of hangs in the air between over the front console and I can see me accidentally disconnecting it. I have not had good luck with extension cords in the past as the female sockets seem to have smooth sides and won't hold the male end of the cord. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for the reply.
You can also hardwired the 12v power to the detector. I pretty sure they sell the hardwired plug for your detector. If not just take it to stereo shop and they will figure it out for you.
Old 02-23-2017, 09:54 AM
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Thought about that, but this is lease car and they always look for a million reasons to pop you for non-standard items. I only use the radar detector on longer trips so it probably isn't worth the time and expense. I might just try to buy an extension and tape it together so the plug stays in one piece. Thanks for the reply.
Old 02-23-2017, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Imanone
I thought about doing that, but I would need to get an 12v cig lighter extension for my Whistler detector as the existing cord is barely long enough to run it straight to the rear plug. The wire sort of hangs in the air between over the front console and I can see me accidentally disconnecting it. I have not had good luck with extension cords in the past as the female sockets seem to have smooth sides and won't hold the male end of the cord. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for the reply.
I already bought the hard wire kit for my escort redline. I posted a question regarding a good place to tap it to so it runs on switched power but I've received no replies.
Old 02-23-2017, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by c4004matic
I already bought the hard wire kit for my escort redline. I posted a question regarding a good place to tap it to so it runs on switched power but I've received no replies.
Look up "add a fuse" online. You can remove one ignition fuse from the fuse replace with add a fuse put that fuse back to add a fuse then run your radar detector wire to it.
Old 02-23-2017, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom T
Look up "add a fuse" online. You can remove one ignition fuse from the fuse replace with add a fuse put that fuse back to add a fuse then run your radar detector wire to it.
I did, thanks excellent solution.
Now, if I could find how to remove the panel of the drivers side dashboard fuse panel the deed would be done. The instructions for removing it are not even in the owners manual, it simply says contact your service dealer!!!
Mercedes treats the electrical system of the car as if it were a nuclear secret. The manual doesn't even include a fuse diagram. You have to dig into the trunk fuse panel and extract a grimy piece of crumpled paper that requires a microfilm viewer to read to even know where the fuses are!!!!!!
Old 02-23-2017, 02:44 PM
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Just FYI - I attempted the fuse tap approach for my dash cam, and it had some unpredictable results. I used the passenger footwell fuse box, and tapped two fuses for the switched and non switched power sources. I used instrument panel fuse for the switched source and overhead console fuse for non switched source. It worked - BUT - both sources acted like they were non switched (so the camera stayed on all the time, even with ignition off) and the presence of the camera tapped into those circuits kept the instrument panel and overhead console "awake" and illuminated even when the car was off. I consider myself pretty handy, but the electrical architecture of the car seems complex and poorly documented from an owner's perspective. I gave up and took out the dash cam. As a bonus, I damaged the clip that holds the A pillar trim in place, so I need to order another one. :-)
Old 02-23-2017, 02:45 PM
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Old 02-23-2017, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Lanzz
Just FYI - I attempted the fuse tap approach for my dash cam, and it had some unpredictable results. I used the passenger footwell fuse box, and tapped two fuses for the switched and non switched power sources. I used instrument panel fuse for the switched source and overhead console fuse for non switched source. It worked - BUT - both sources acted like they were non switched (so the camera stayed on all the time, even with ignition off) and the presence of the camera tapped into those circuits kept the instrument panel and overhead console "awake" and illuminated even when the car was off. I consider myself pretty handy, but the electrical architecture of the car seems complex and poorly documented from an owner's perspective. I gave up and took out the dash cam. As a bonus, I damaged the clip that holds the A pillar trim in place, so I need to order another one. :-)
I have not seen the fuses inside the passenger kick panel yet but I see the fuse door is there. I normal use the test light to see which fuse is ignition control. I know what you guys are thinking-- TEST LIGHT. I only use it to find blown fuse and this similar purpose. I use multimeter for the rest. If I remember when I get home from work, I will test which fuse at the passenger fuse panel and will post it.
Old 02-23-2017, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom T
I have not seen the fuses inside the passenger kick panel yet but I see the fuse door is there. I normal use the test light to see which fuse is ignition control. I know what you guys are thinking-- TEST LIGHT. I only use it to find blown fuse and this similar purpose. I use multimeter for the rest. If I remember when I get home from work, I will test which fuse at the passenger fuse panel and will post it.
I would check the fuse diagram to find an appropriate fuse. Blind testing will be a laborious process given that many of the "switched" circuits stay on even after you turn the car off, they turn off completely only when you open the driver's door. I'm going to try to avoid removing trim and use the "stuff it in there" process as much as possible since, as you found out, removing trim almost invariably leads to broken hardware with an accompanying major gastric ulcer. The detector will be at the bottom of the windshield since with the acoustic package there are only 2 spots where it will work; bottom center or a small window on the right side of the rear view mirror and camera "cluster". Ill use the top "hole" for my Epass.
Old 02-23-2017, 07:01 PM
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Yep! just checked all the passenger kick fuses. They are all constant.
Old 02-23-2017, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom T
Yep! just checked all the passenger kick fuses. They are all constant.
Find the cigarette lighter fuse in the fuse diagram. The lighter is definitly switched.
Old 02-24-2017, 09:10 AM
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Unfortunately the cigarette lighter fuse(12V socket) is on the fuse panel located in the trunk!!!!
Old 02-24-2017, 01:45 PM
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Yes, Mike - that is why I was trying to work from the passenger footwell fuse box. The running of wire from the front to the back of the car would present even more opportunities for me to damage the interior. :-) In my old Chrysler 300c, I did run it to the rear fuse box, but the trim and build quality of that car wasn't great, so there is nothing I could do to make it worse.
Old 02-24-2017, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by c4004matic
As far as I know there isnt one, much to my chagrin.
I know it isn't much help, but there is a 12V outlet in the tray of the console in the U.K. I just wonder why something like that wouldn't be on every version - we all have the same need!
Old 02-24-2017, 05:16 PM
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There are plenty of ignition powered fuses in the driver side engine compartment. There is a big 1" rubber grommet to run the wire through as well.

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