MBWorld.org Forums - W212 AMG

E63S Dyno results

QuadTurboPrius — Thu, 21 May 2026 13:07:42 GMT

I find it difficult to find straightforward Dyno charts for the E63S, so I found a nearby 4-wheel dyno and had my car run through some tests yesterday

Here are the results
- This is a 2014 E63S (US 4matic variant) with 84k miles, stage 1 Eurocharged ECU and TCU tunes
- The dyno is a "Mustang" dyno, so the rule of thumb is to apply a +15% correction to get what a DynoJet would tell you
- Used a +20% correction factor to get brake Hp/Tq

Results

Screen upgrade

eugkim — Tue, 19 May 2026 23:40:44 GMT

I�ve had my E 63S since new. I tend to hold onto cars if I like them. I purchased a seven year 135K mile extended warranty. My feeling was to trade it in after the warranty was up. However, knock on wood, I really haven�t had many issues and I still love the car. Recently, I decided to spend 11,000 to replace front and rear suspension, figuring these were wear items. My only real issue with the car was the dated infotainment. After using CarPlay on other cars, pretty hard to use my phone in a phone holder for Waze.

Finally decided to upgrade the screen. Sound quality for me was nonnegotiable. After all the research, I found that the Linux screens retained the OEM Bluetooth sound. All of the android systems required you to use the AUX system for sound which hasn�t gotten good reviews.

Decided on a Road Top 10� screen. Thought the 12 inch screen was much too big. Just installed it. Was really very easy. Very happy with it. The sound is unchanged. From my standpoint, car is no longer dated. I highly recommend it.

Diff Breather and trans fluid change

Baltistyle — Sun, 17 May 2026 15:03:52 GMT

Hello everyone, since I�ve been putting lots of miles on the car I�ve just been going through the standard maintenance.

Last summer, I had some warranty work done for a leaking rear differential , where they replaced an axle seal, as well as a pinion seal. Since I was unsure of the causation, I asked them to change the breather in the diff as well. About two weeks ago while inspecting under the car, I noticed the rear diff was leaking again, so I checked the rear breather and saw it had not been replaced and was original to the car, covered in paint from the diff. for about nine dollars I bought what is called a diff breather, wiggle valve cap, I popped the old one out and popped the new one in and after about a week of driving, I haven�t noticed any new fluid. I did just top up the fluid today because it was a little bit low so I will monitor and report back if this fixed it. Stuck breathers can create issues on axles and diffs so make sure to check them.

I also did a transmission remove and replace of the fluid two times this weekend. It had been about five years and 20 to 25,000 miles since it had been done, last at the dealer. I�ve been having a little bit of hesitation at low speeds so figured it would be a good time to check up on the transmission. The hardest part of the whole process is getting the car level on jackstands and removing the under body panel. There�s plenty of videos out there on how to do this so I won�t go through that but here are some pics. I�ll report back after driving through the week, but the initial drive felt immediately smoother.

I did also change my transmission mount because I figured if it was bad I wanted to do it while I was under there. That was last changed in 2021 at the same time the transmission fluid was changed, but there was no cracking or any visual indication that the mount needed to be changed this time..

Overall the fluid was dirty but still had a blue hue

Not much debris on the pan, no sparkles

Magnet captured the fines. Very silt like and no size to any of the captured material.

M156 oil temperature

Matt63 — Wed, 13 May 2026 20:00:05 GMT

Hello guys, should i get worie about temperature? In city and track when i kick hard temperature jumps till 130.
auto high millage 300k+

Should i change oil from 5w40 to 5w50?

Engine undertray - seperate piece?

FastWgn — Wed, 13 May 2026 15:48:08 GMT

Question for the group - on my undertray there is a piece missing, right under the oil level sensor at the bottom. A sliver unclear why it has been removed / went missing. It's the part circled in red in this picture (from eBay)
Seems like there is a way to buy this piece separately (based on pictures like the one below), but I have not been able to find that part number. Anybody have any clues?

The part number for the entire cover is 2185200323 (I think - which is a bit interesting since that is a CLS part number).

E63s m157 cutting power after 5k rpms

JACK_W212 E63S — Tue, 12 May 2026 04:23:07 GMT

Hello everyone,

I would greatly appreciate any help or insight on this issue because I�m honestly starting to run out of ideas.

I have a 2014 W212 E63 S AMG (M157) with around 64k miles. I�ve owned the car for roughly 10k miles and the maintenance history on the car is extremely solid. I stay on top of service and have not cheaped out on maintenance or repairs.

About 6 months ago, I started noticing the car would suddenly cut power / limit boost around 5k RPM and above. What�s strange is the car feels completely normal below that RPM range. It pulls hard through 1st gear and builds full boost normally, but once I get into the higher RPM range (roughly 5k-7k), it starts feeling sluggish and won�t continue pulling properly.

At first there were no CELs, but I had code:

P227F00

After researching, I suspected a faulty MAP sensor on bank 2 or possibly a wiring issue because the problem was intermittent � some weeks the car felt almost normal, other weeks it would limit power badly. I replaced the suspected map sensor, but the issue remained.

A few months later I then received which through a CEL, But only for about 24 hours and never came back.

P227D

At that point I took the car to a reputable European shop for proper diagnostics. The following was performed:

smoke test
wiring/voltage testing
leak inspection

The shop found no evidence of boost leaks or wiring problems. Since then, I have replaced all 3 MAP sensors with Bosch units and still have absolutely no change.What confuses me is:

the car idles and drives fine otherwise

boost comes on hard initially

issue mainly appears in the upper RPM range under heavier load

sometimes the car will randomly have �good weeks� where it feels much stronger
Because of this, I�m beginning to wonder if this could potentially be fuel related rather than boost leak related possibly HPFP related or another fueling issue that only becomes apparent in the higher RPM range when fuel demand increases.

At this point I�m trying to avoid continuing to throw random parts at the car and would really appreciate any advice from people familiar with the M157 platform or anyone who has experienced something similar. Please ask me any question's if needed! Im Stressed!

Wagon rear shocks - is this even an alternative?

FastWgn — Sun, 10 May 2026 10:42:30 GMT

So - for us wagon owners, we know the rear shocks are expensive (left / drivers side) or impossible to find AND expensive (passenger / right side). I have a leak on the drivers side and luckily that is the part that is avail, 2183202130. For ~$750...
Now - normally I do believe in swapping both side shocks at same mileage just to keep the suspension equal in wear and tear. For $750 each I'm a sliver more hesitant. If I was able to source the right side (2183202230), at all. Latest update (Oct 2025) seems to be it may be possible? OldManAndHisCar update

If you search eBay you find these: Chinese knockoff (for wagon and the CLS - which is the 218 partnumber anyhow)
As previously discussed here at MBWorld, seems like the difference is more in the physical layout (the little side cylinder) than the actual shock itself. Seems like this vendors realized that and make one set (for $450 - both sides!) with the wagon looking setup (likely this fits just fine on the sedan as well?)

This is not meant to be a "buy OEM or you are too cheap to own this car" kind of discussion, but a realistic thought that esp. if your right side is blown, this is unlikely to be a worse alternative than buying a used one from a dismantler (which is also hard to find)? At least until the right rear shows up again as avail?

Passenger Bi-Xenon Keeps Failing

MBShepherd — Tue, 05 May 2026 00:20:04 GMT

Hey all, got a "Check right low beam" on my dash, checked to confirm the light was out. Ordered 2 new lights and replaced both sides. Confirmed passenger side was working again, took a quick drive to warm up my new oil and got the same error on my dash and noticed the passenger light was out again.

Did some looking around on here and online and it seems like it could be the ballast, the ballast connector, or a bad wire / failing shielding. I did a visual inspection inside the light housing and everything looked in good condition. Hoping I don't need to pull the bumper to check/swap the ballast, was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what else it could possibly be or some easier things I might be able to check first.

Wheel speed sensor, but a stuck caliper piston maybe?

ChuckWagon2 — Sat, 02 May 2026 19:34:21 GMT

I received a wheel speed sensor trip [right rear] where everything goes yellow on the dash.. So I pulled the sensor out and went to see if I could clean up the reluctor ring but I can't turn my rotor... then turned it on and put it in N in case that mattered.. didn't.
While I was troubleshooting why I couldn't turn my rotor I came across some "set the car in brake pad change mode" info, but when I got to that menu it didn't have the option, and my EPB on the DiagLink said not applicable so I eventually went to check if the pads were touching the rotor..
Yes, pads touching rotor.. so I was able to push back the outer pad but the inner pad is not moving at all.
Not sure if I need to pull off the caliper next or am I missing some other reason why it wouldn't move?

pad moves

inner pad stuck

outer moves, inner doesn't

What is the wheel lug bolt torque spec?

E63SAMG2014 — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 03:01:16 GMT

Getting mixed specs.
Does anyone know the exact torque spec for the lug bolts?

Owners manual info would help� but don�t have one

OEM Wheels Source?

E63SAMG2014 — Mon, 27 Apr 2026 19:44:35 GMT

https://www.originalwheels.com/shop/?add-to-cart=56068

is this website legit to order OEM MB Factory wheels?

if not, where can I source brand new or like new wheels? (10Spoke Black)

part #
front wheel 2124015002
rear wheel 2124015102

Rear Parking Brake Adjustment

Nor Cal SL55 — Wed, 22 Apr 2026 16:25:14 GMT

Meant to post this here and not in the W212 section - but I guess it applies to both.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...m_content=post